What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

I use this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXJD8W1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the same thing just has a longer lead wire on it

 

[iamdub]

I hope every one had a great Thanksgiving ! I have been away awhile.

Have a shock replacement question: 2007 GMC Yukon SLE 5.3 Flex fuel

I need to replace the original ( 77K miles ) rear shocks. The OEM ones are pictured as are the heavy duty ones.
I never tow anything, but will be towing a 20 foot cargo trailer next summer from Seattle to Ohio and am thinking maybe I want heavy duty shocks vs OEM standard

Everyone's thoughts ? thank you in advanceView attachment 386163View attachment 386163

I'm with @Geotrash on this one. The springs are what carry the load. The shocks dampen movement. Yes, they go hand-in-hand. But, if you're worried about the load, I'd focus on springs first, especially since you "never tow". You can get some Air Lift or Firestone Ride-Rite bags for ~$100ish and have all the flexibility you'll need for the rare occasions you tow. Or, remove and sell them if you never tow again. As for shocks, those you listed aren't "OEM". ACDelco "Professional" and "Advantage" are re-labeled aftermarket parts that ACDelco has licensed under their name. There are three levels of ACDelco: Genuine/OE (What came on it from the factory and is generally hailed as best quality), Gold/Professional (Aftermarket that ACDelco has deemed as a 'good' replacement) and Silver/Advantage (Parts focused more on price).

So, avoid Silver/Advantage unless you just want to have new parts on there regardless of the other factors. Be aware that the Gold/Advantage should be pretty good, but might not be as good or last as long as your original parts.

Having said all that, I'd focus on shocks that best suit the primary use of your Yukon. Shocks of factory spec were selected to strike a balance between satisfying the vehicle's towing and carrying capabilities as well as its normal/unloaded commuting duties. So, technically, if you're within the towing ratings, OE shocks should be fine. If yours are worn out, replace them with OE or equivalent and you should restore your ride and towing characteristics. Anything additional (helper bags and/or HD shocks, etc.) would be to improve the stance and handling when loaded within those ratings.

Will this 20' cargo trailer be loaded? If so, be mindful of proper loading/weight distribution.

 

[StrkAliteN]

I'm with @Geotrash on this one. The springs are what carry the load. The shocks dampen movement. Yes, they go hand-in-hand. But, if you're worried about the load, I'd focus on springs first, especially since you "never tow". You can get some Air Lift or Firestone Ride-Rite bags for ~$100ish and have all the flexibility you'll need for the rare occasions you tow. Or, remove and sell them if you never tow again. As for shocks, those you listed aren't "OEM". ACDelco "Professional" and "Advantage" are re-labeled aftermarket parts that ACDelco has licensed under their name. There are three levels of ACDelco: Genuine/OE (What came on it from the factory and is generally hailed as best quality), Gold/Professional (Aftermarket that ACDelco has deemed as a 'good' replacement) and Silver/Advantage (Parts focused more on price).

So, avoid Silver/Advantage unless you just want to have new parts on there regardless of the other factors. Be aware that the Gold/Advantage should be pretty good, but might not be as good or last as long as your original parts.

Having said all that, I'd focus on shocks that best suit the primary use of your Yukon. Shocks of factory spec were selected to strike a balance between satisfying the vehicle's towing and carrying capabilities as well as its normal/unloaded commuting duties. So, technically, if you're within the towing ratings, OE shocks should be fine. If yours are worn out, replace them with OE or equivalent and you should restore your ride and towing characteristics. Anything additional (helper bags and/or HD shocks, etc.) would be to improve the stance and handling when loaded within those ratings.

Will this 20' cargo trailer be loaded? If so, be mindful of proper loading/weight distribution.

Yes trailer will be loaded with a few things, total weight with trailer will be 6000 lbs ( below rated tow capacity )

Thank you for the info on those shocks being low rated aftermarket and not OEM quality. Would GMpartscenter.net be a place that would sell me the Gold / Prof shocks or where would I find them at the best price ?

thank you for the info

 

[iamdub]

Yes trailer will be loaded with a few things, total weight with trailer will be 6000 lbs ( below rated tow capacity )

Thank you for the info on those shocks being low rated aftermarket and not OEM quality. Would GMpartscenter.net be a place that would sell me the Gold / Prof shocks or where would I find them at the best price ?

thank you for the info

These days, there's no telling who has the "best price" on anything any more. You have to constantly shop around. Availability is the main kicker. A lot of those OE parts supply sites carry the parts and let you put them in a cart and pay for them, THEN they tell you later they're out of stock/backordered. Since the Gold/Professional parts are aftermarket, they tend to be more often in stock. But, if you're fine with aftermarket shocks (no reason to not be), there are known good ones that you can buy directly. In general, Bilstein is the top dog. I forget which series, but I think it's Gabriel that is another good choice. I think I recall the KYB Gas-A-Just being good. But KYB Excel-G are GARBAGE.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

I vote Z71 springs and Bilstein 5100s

 

[George B]

Yes trailer will be loaded with a few things, total weight with trailer will be 6000 lbs ( below rated tow capacity )

Thank you for the info on those shocks being low rated aftermarket and not OEM quality. Would GMpartscenter.net be a place that would sell me the Gold / Prof shocks or where would I find them at the best price ?

thank you for the info

Take a look here:

2007 GMC YUKON 5.3L V8 Shock Absorber | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Lots of good options to choose. Even good adjustable air shocks from AC Delco. Although I believe you would be happy with some good Gabriel shocks too.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Drove it for the first time since getting the alignment last Wednesday. Noticing that the steering wheel points to 11 when going straight. Well, not quite 11, maybe 11:30, but it's not straight up 12.

Now it might be my tires, I haven't gotten the new ones installed yet and they're pretty worn from driving with the bad ball joints for a bit.

If it's still off after I install the new wheels and tires could I straighten it by just turning the passenger tie rod in a turn and the driver's out a turn (or a half turn on each side, etc?) I know I could just take it back to the alignment shop and have them fix it, but if it's easy enough to do I'll just do it myself.

 

[89Suburban]

Drove it for the first time since getting the alignment last Wednesday. Noticing that the steering wheel points to 11 when going straight. Well, not quite 11, maybe 11:30, but it's not straight up 12.

Now it might be my tires, I haven't gotten the new ones installed yet and they're pretty worn from driving with the bad ball joints for a bit.

If it's still off after I install the new wheels and tires could I straighten it by just turning the passenger tie rod in a turn and the driver's out a turn (or a half turn on each side, etc?) I know I could just take it back to the alignment shop and have them fix it, but if it's easy enough to do I'll just do it myself.

Welcome to the DIY alignment sickness.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Welcome to the DIY alignment sickness.

Nope, not going anywhere near what you did doing an alignment. Just straightening the steering wheel.

It doesn't pull and drives straight even with hands off the wheel.

 

[StrkAliteN]

These days, there's no telling who has the "best price" on anything any more. You have to constantly shop around. Availability is the main kicker. A lot of those OE parts supply sites carry the parts and let you put them in a cart and pay for them, THEN they tell you later they're out of stock/backordered. Since the Gold/Professional parts are aftermarket, they tend to be more often in stock. But, if you're fine with aftermarket shocks (no reason to not be), there are known good ones that you can buy directly. In general, Bilstein is the top dog. I forget which series, but I think it's Gabriel that is another good choice. I think I recall the KYB Gas-A-Just being good. But KYB Excel-G are GARBAGE.

I am more concerned putting the best quality shock on my vehicle than saving 5-10 dollars

I appreciate all the info, but honestly the more I read the more confused I am getting.

My biggest fear is ordering a set that will just not fit and that royally ***** me and wastes alot of time
2nd biggest fear is i install a set on the rear that creates a dangerous towing condition for my cross county trip next year

I just want the best regular shock ( no air adjust - no crazy modifications ) Just a factory set that will perform guaranteed above average results.

I honestly do not care who makes them.

I do not understand how how that 3rd shock will fit like the center as it looks completely differant ends ? yet both are supposed to fit ?

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Z71 springs and Bilstein 5100s…

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I am more concerned putting the best quality shock on my vehicle than saving 5-10 dollars

I appreciate all the info, but honestly the more I read the more confused I am getting.

My biggest fear is ordering a set that will just not fit and that royally ***** me and wastes alot of time
2nd biggest fear is i install a set on the rear that creates a dangerous towing condition for my cross county trip next year

I just want the best regular shock ( no air adjust - no crazy modifications ) Just a factory set that will perform guaranteed above average results.

I honestly do not care who makes them.

I do not understand how how that 3rd shock will fit like the center as it looks completely differant ends ? yet both are supposed to fit ?

View attachment 386206

Amazon is not where you want to be looking for parts that actually fit your vehicle.
It's best to find the parts you actually want on something like RockAuto and then shop around for price and availability other places like Amazon if you don't like the price or slow shipping or what have you.

 

[iamdub]

...could I straighten it by just turning the passenger tie rod in a turn and the driver's out a turn (or a half turn on each side, etc?) I know I could just take it back to the alignment shop and have them fix it, but if it's easy enough to do I'll just do it myself.

It's that easy. After I did my alignment, the last step was to straighten my steering wheel. I had the RST 22s on it at the time, so I just brought my wrenches with me on the test drive, turned into the parking lot at the community center and reached between the spokes to turn each side an equal number of times. Then tested and adjusted as necessary.

If the steering wheel is turned to the left, you wanna adjust the wheels to the left. Honestly, I'd try half or even quarter turns. Being at 11-11:30, it won't take much at all.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

It's that easy. After I did my alignment, the last step was to straighten my steering wheel. I had the RST 22s on it at the time, so I just brought my wrenches with me on the test drive, turned into the parking lot at the community center and reached between the spokes to turn each side an equal number of times. Then tested and adjusted as necessary.

If the steering wheel is turned to the left, you wanna adjust the wheels to the left. Honestly, I'd try half or even quarter turns. Being at 11-11:30, it won't take much at all.

A "good" shop will straighten the wheel for you as part of the alignment.

 

[gooffeyguy]

A "good" shop will straighten the wheel for you as part of the alignment.

When I took it in the wheel would be slightly off towards the 1 o'clock position, which I told them (mind you, I replaced both sides inner and outer tie rods, along with both sides upper and lower control arms) and it was actually pulling a bit to one side.

I plan on waiting until I put the new wheels and tires on next week because the amount of wear that's on my tires currently from driving with bad ball joints and a bad inner tie rod for a couple months before I replaced them may be effecting it (I had all the parts but was waiting on my QuickJack lift to get delivered)

Like I said previously, I'm sure I can take it back to them and they'll fix it no problem, but if it's a simple 10 minute fix I'll save me the drive to the shop and back

 

[Fubar0715]

Sure miss having my friend with a home shop and lift close by.... JEALOUS!!!!

So, while in Florida last week, visited my friend with the lift to address my o-ring pickup tube issues and the correct oil leaks that were happening. Put the 'hoe on the rack, pulled the pan and found a leaking cooler line gasket and pan gasket. While in there with the pan off, replaced the O-ring that was REAL flat (getting about 18lb pressure at idle) thus getting low pressure. I even got a CEL on the way to Florida. So much for Fleet maintenance, lots of gunk in the bottom of the pan, and fresh oil now with a PF63 filter. On my truck, the filter does not sit below the bottom of the pan and I am happy to report that I have about 22lbs at idle and run about 28 cruising at 70mph once full warmed up. I have to thank the folks on this forum with the knowledge and info about what to look for and fix for the leaks and pressure issues.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

So, while in Florida last week, visited my friend with the lift to address my o-ring pickup tube issues and the correct oil leaks that were happening. Put the 'hoe on the rack, pulled the pan and found a leaking cooler line gasket and pan gasket. While in there with the pan off, replaced the O-ring that was REAL flat (getting about 18lb pressure at idle) thus getting low pressure. I even got a CEL on the way to Florida. So much for Fleet maintenance, lots of gunk in the bottom of the pan, and fresh oil now with a PF68 filter. On my truck, the filter does not sit below the bottom of the pan and I am happy to report that I have about 22lbs at idle and run about 28 cruising at 70mph once full warmed up. I have to thank the folks on this forum with the knowledge and info about what to look for and fix for the leaks and pressure issues.

Did you check the pickup tube o-ring? Those are known to fail also.

 

[07Burb]

About to pull the trigger on an 09 Esky with 110k on the clock

 

[Fubar0715]

Pics man!!

Finally - god that pig is dirty now from being on the road for the past 10 days.

 

[Fubar0715]

Did you check the pickup tube o-ring? Those are known to fail also.

I replaced it - didnt bother to check since I had the pan down....That was what I was writing about initially cuz it was going to get changed.