What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mountie

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Not sure if something wigged out or what, but on the way home today, AC full blast, sitting at a light.
And then once the engine revs up goes back to 12.5 or higher.
Stopped at BevMo for some refreshments, started it back up and it was sitting at 14-14.3v for the 5 min drive home.
I think I read in the manual the charging system does "regulate" ....
 

Doubeleive

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Not sure if something wigged out or what, but on the way home today, AC full blast, sitting at a light.
And then once the engine revs up goes back to 12.5 or higher.
Stopped at BevMo for some refreshments, started it back up and it was sitting at 14-14.3v for the 5 min drive home.
intake seems kind of hot, I'll have to check mine again seems like it runs just a few degrees over ambient, that's with a k&n blackhawk
 

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Wes
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Got around to replacing my radiator, some hoses, and attempted to swap out all the transmission oil cool lines. But some issues popped up.

Had to trim the fan shroud due to the thicker core of this Champion radiator. No biggie, it went in fine, and I thought I was on a roll. Nope.

I can't figure out how to remove the the hardline that connects to the right side of the oil cooler (as you face the front of the grill) from the opening between the bumper and AC condenser.

I disconnected the lines from the transmission, and all clips and brackets, but no amount of twisting, rotating, or pushing would allow for the hardline to make it through the opening.

I ended up reinstalling the old lines because if I can get them out without cutting them, how do I get the new lines in?

Is there a trick for us 4x4 owners that I didn't notice in the videos I watched in preparation for this? The vehicles were either 4x2, or they never showed the removal of the lines.

To add to the fun, after getting everything new swapped in, and all hoses connected, I see coolant leaking out of the reservoir as I'm running the engine to burp the air out.

Wtf! I just replaced that reservoir less than six months ago. Trying to bum a ride from my neighbor to the parts store tomorrow morning to get a new one and finish this garbage.

View attachment 373700

View attachment 373701

View attachment 373702
oil cooler lines go on just like the transmission cooler lines, it's just a c-clip, put the clip on then just push the line on until it clicks in. or put the line on then the clip.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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I think I read in the manual the charging system does "regulate" ....
Yeah, but the lowest it's ever gone has been 12.5 previously.
It shouldn't ever regulate lower than that. And in my opinion, since it's literally just for fuel savings, I'd be happy if I could program it to push 13.5 all the time.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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intake seems kind of hot, I'll have to check mine again seems like it runs just a few degrees over ambient, that's with a k&n blackhawk
That's with my corsa, wrapped in dei reflect-a-gold.
It still hits 135 sitting in traffic idling whatever.
Ambient was actually about a hundred degrees.
 

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Wes
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Yeah, but the lowest it's ever gone has been 12.5 previously.
It shouldn't ever regulate lower than that. And in my opinion, since it's literally just for fuel savings, I'd be happy if I could program it to push 13.5 all the time.
it's been my experience when a battery starts getting that low then it's getting weak and time for a new one. same when the voltage starts going all over the place more than normal. A change in the weather will usually make it happen. how old is it?
 

Charlie207

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oil cooler lines go on just like the transmission cooler lines, it's just a c-clip, put the clip on then just push the line on until it clicks in. or put the line on then the clip.

Yeah, I had no problems detaching/attaching to the coolers, my problem is removing the TOC lines from the vehicle.

It's spaghetti, and my concern is that it'll be easy to cut the lines to get the old ones out, but how to route the new lines on a 4x4?
 

Just Fishing

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Yeah, I had no problems detaching/attaching to the coolers, my problem is removing the TOC lines from the vehicle.

It's spaghetti, and my concern is that it'll be easy to cut the lines to get the old ones out, but how to route the new lines on a 4x4?

Put some penetrating oil on those lines.
there are little O-rings that seal against the tube.
Wiggle them and twist them, if possible, to get them loose.

When reinstalling, I put a small amount of oil or even light grease on the tube end to help it slide in.
I bet it's slightly crooked and applying pressure.


bolt on the side of the block near the front holds it...

Unbolt/loosen it and you might get some more wiggle room.

And I removed and reinstalled my engine oil cooler lines with the front axle out of there.
I haven't tried with the front axle in.
 

89Suburban

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Yeah, but the lowest it's ever gone has been 12.5 previously.
It shouldn't ever regulate lower than that. And in my opinion, since it's literally just for fuel savings, I'd be happy if I could program it to push 13.5 all the time.
I did an experiment once and removed the sensor from the POS cable that controls that regulation for about a week. It worked. But on longer road trips it seemed to create a slight burnt electrical smell from under the hood from the constant high charging and it freaked me out so I put it back on and left it like it was.
 

Charlie207

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Put some penetrating oil on those lines.
there are little O-rings that seal against the tube.
Wiggle them and twist them, if possible, to get them loose.

When reinstalling, I put a small amount of oil or even light grease on the tube end to help it slide in.
I bet it's slightly crooked and applying pressure.


bolt on the side of the block near the front holds it...

Unbolt/loosen it and you might get some more wiggle room.

And I removed and reinstalled my engine oil cooler lines with the front axle out of there.
I haven't tried with the front axle in.

I have no issue unplugging the lines from either the TOC or the radiator.

It's a routing issue. I can't get the L-shaped hardline backed out of the small cutout between the bumper and radiator support.

The videos I watched for reference didn't show how to remove them.
 

the_tool_man

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The dupli-color spray paint I used to paint my D-pillar appliques didn't even last a year before oxidizing. I called a car painter buddy of mine who told me how much it would cost to properly paint them. I looked on eBay and found a used pair already painted my color for less.
20220625_085029.jpg

Big improvement, and should hold up better in the SC solar beat down.
20220625_090036.jpg


Lesson learned. OEM beats aftermarket (except for headlights, lol). Unfortunately I also discovered that my Eagle Eyes fully-lit CHMSL is cracked. FML.
 

Doubeleive

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I have no issue unplugging the lines from either the TOC or the radiator.

It's a routing issue. I can't get the L-shaped hardline backed out of the small cutout between the bumper and radiator support.

The videos I watched for reference didn't show how to remove them.
those lines shouldn't be between the bumper and radiator, you must be trying to do the power steering cooler lines?
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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The hard line on the right (that's the transmission cool I'm referring to) won't go out of the hole my booger-picker is pointing towards.

View attachment 373725
gotcha, 1 of those should only go to the radiator, but honestly not sure how the other one gets fished in & out of there, must be a way
 

Charlie207

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Here's another angle of the routing. You can see the new line that connects the transmission cooler fitting from the radiator to the auxiliary TOC. Some dumb GM oxygen-stealing mouth-breathing smooth-brained dork designed the dumbest thing for this system.

ovgmSa9.jpg
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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it's been my experience when a battery starts getting that low then it's getting weak and time for a new one. same when the voltage starts going all over the place more than normal. A change in the weather will usually make it happen. how old is it?
Well, with the engine running I would assume that it would always be trying to maintain at least 12.5, but my yellow top is around 3 years old I think, and my die hard is maybe 2 years old, and I know it's starting to fail.
But I have both of them hooked up.
 

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Wes
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Well, with the engine running I would assume that it would always be trying to maintain at least 12.5, but my yellow top is around 3 years old I think, and my die hard is maybe 2 years old, and I know it's starting to fail.
But I have both of them hooked up.
I have been thru a few set's of the odyssey's and they never last beyond 3 years or they start to die right after the 3yrs warranty is up, I switched to the interstate AGM a year ago or so but I expect they will last about the same time at least the price is better about $160 compared to the odyssey's at $300+
it's the heat here that kills them mostly.
 

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Wes
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Here's another angle of the routing. You can see the new line that connects the transmission cooler fitting from the radiator to the auxiliary TOC. Some dumb GM oxygen-stealing mouth-breathing smooth-brained dork designed the dumbest thing for this system.

View attachment 373745
I would get the lines all loose from the clips and fittings and start wiggling. the rubber part will give you some room to move stuff any direction
 

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