What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[gooffeyguy]

To go with that thought, what is the thing with the rubber gizmos on the oil and transmission cooler lines going into the radiator?

Dirty pair are thecopcar. Off road donchaknow. Clean ones are similar on theothertwin.

Rubber gizmos? Are you talking about the plastic covers that go over the spring clips that hold those lines in?

 

[Doubeleive]

To go with that thought, what is the thing with the rubber gizmos on the oil and transmission cooler lines going into the radiator?

Dirty pair are thecopcar. Off road donchaknow. Clean ones are similar on theothertwin.

those are just protectors so the c clip under them can't be accidentally knocked off, just pull on them and they slide back on the tube

 

[Sparksalot]

Gotcha. I used to old school flare nuts on tubing.

 

[iamdub]

If you're good at welding and have the right equipment you can weld a bead around the pipe

That thought crossed my mind. But it's two small pipes under the cowl and next to the firewall. And they're aluminum. I have a spool gun for my MIG welder, but it's definitely not ideal for that.

The pipe is 1/2" ID (or OD?). I'm thinking of modifying a large pair of needle-nose pliers to crimp a bead into it.

 

[iamdub]

More good news. Happy New Year Paw Paw.

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What is that plug out of? Doesn't look like an engine oil plug. Them shiny metal chunks look like timing sprocket teeth.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Transfer case?

 

[Rocket Man]

More good news. Happy New Year Paw Paw.

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Dammit. What’s that plug out of? Front diff?

 

[Doubeleive]

Gotcha. I used to old school flare nuts on tubing.

all you have to do is take the clip off and the tube slides right out, it's a quick release. just like the gas cylinders for the hatch & glass a new radiator will come with new clips.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Do with it? Limped home 500 miles from Big Bend with a burst upper tank on the radiator. A 2.5" rupture near the top, so the engine still had coolant the whole time.

First I had to limp 25 miles out of the desert to try and patch it with JB Weld. Worked decently, but I couldn't reach the entire rupture, so it seeped all the way back.

Cold Case, I'm about to call...

Do it. Can't go wrong with it. It really works so much better than stock too.

 

[gooffeyguy]

That thought crossed my mind. But it's two small pipes under the cowl and next to the firewall. And they're aluminum. I have a spool gun for my MIG welder, but it's definitely not ideal for that.

The pipe is 1/2" ID (or OD?). I'm thinking of modifying a large pair of needle-nose pliers to crimp a bead into it.

If you're talking about the stock hardlines that run to the rear heater core, they should have a barb already on them. That's how they stay in the factory quick connects.

 

[Rocket Man]

all you have to do is take the clip off and the tube slides right out, it's a quick release. just like the gas cylinders for the hatch & glass a new radiator will come with new clips.

Even better is installing them- just push then in until they click.

 

[89Suburban]

What is that plug out of? Doesn't look like an engine oil plug. Them shiny metal chunks look like timing sprocket teeth.

Dammit. What’s that plug out of? Front diff?

Rear diff.

 

[George B]

Rear diff.

Gov-bomb?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Even better is installing them- just push then in until they click.

And if you have the tool, (Lisle makes a small cheap one) it's almost as easy to remove. Just an 1/8th turn of the tool and pull the tube out. No having to remove the spring clip with a pick and hoping it doesn't go flying somewhere never to be found!

This fitting type is called a Jiffy-tite fitting and is used on just about all makes/models of automobiles.

 

[iamdub]

If you're talking about the stock hardlines that run to the rear heater core, they should have a barb already on them. That's how they stay in the factory quick connects.

They did. Buuuuut I cut them off to make room for the aluminum Ts :-/

 

[iamdub]

And if you have the tool, (Lisle makes a small cheap one) it's almost as easy to remove. Just an 1/8th turn of the tool and pull the tube out. No having to remove the spring clip with a pick and hoping it doesn't go flying somewhere never to be found!

This fitting type is called a Jiffy-tite fitting and is used on just about all makes/models of automobiles.

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That's cool! I've never seen those before.

I rub a shop rag around the the fitting to snag the clip and capture it in the rag.

 

[Sparksalot]

Rubber gizmos? Are you talking about the plastic covers that go over the spring clips that hold those lines in?

@Doubeleive will regular needle nose work, or are C clip pliers needed?

Oops, finished reading the replies and had my answers.

 

[Doubeleive]

@Doubeleive will regular needle nose work, or are C clip pliers needed?

Oops, finished reading the replies and had my answers.

ya anything will work I prefer to just use a small flathead screwdriver or a pick tool with the 90deg tip doesn't take anything special

 

[Rocket Man]

And if you have the tool, (Lisle makes a small cheap one) it's almost as easy to remove. Just an 1/8th turn of the tool and pull the tube out. No having to remove the spring clip with a pick and hoping it doesn't go flying somewhere never to be found!

This fitting type is called a Jiffy-tite fitting and is used on just about all makes/models of automobiles.

View attachment 359486

You don’t happen to know the Lisle part # for that tool do you? The connectors on the side of the trans are the ones I have trouble with and that tool would be nice.

 

[gooffeyguy]

You don’t happen to know the Lisle part # for that tool do you? The connectors on the side of the trans are the ones I have trouble with and that tool would be nice.

The 4 pack with case is 22990 and runs about $50

They are also available individually, about $15. The 3/8" one is 22930