What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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By “it” I mean to say that the majority of brake fade is due to heat buildup and that the drled and slotted rotors are the area of most improvement. That as opposed to going to higher performance pads on solid rotors.

I gotcha.

Really, it's both. Fade is caused by the pad glazing over from heat. The slotted and drilled rotors help to evacuate the heat and there are special pad compounds designed to withstand the higher temps without glazing. Also, the slotted and drilled rotors shave the pads, keeping the surface clean and fresh. Obviously, this is at the expense of pad life and increased dusting. Ceramic pads are great for "non-smooth" rotors since their dust tends to be less visible, extending the amount of time before you really see a buildup on the wheels.

Best brakes I ever had were when cryo-tempered rotors were first introduced. A company called "Frozen Rotors" partnered up with Power Slot and tempered their rotors. I was a guinea pig for their S-series fitment on my '02 Xtreme. That truck had hydraboost, rear disc conversion, larger master cylinder and I tweaked the proportioning valve accordingly. I ran those rotors for almost 90K miles and just replaced the pads (Hawk HPS) every 20K-30K miles. I could stand on the pedal from triple digit speed and the seatbelt digging into my chest would HURT. Driving after such a stop, I could feel no loss of braking and those rotors seemed like they were immune to warping. When I sold the truck at around 112K miles, there was barely a ridge around the outer edge of the braking surfaces, indicating very little wear.

Fast forward to 2016, right before a trip to Florida, I ordered cryo-tempered PowerStop (NOT the same as Power Slot!) slotted rotors for the Tahoe, thinking I was getting the same thing. Hawk HPS pads aren't available for these behemoths, they have the LTS. Initial bedding-in and testing seemed to be "fine". We drove to Tampa and, the next day while navigating city traffic, I began slowing for a red light and felt the pedal pulsating. Pissed me off. They lasted less than 1,000 miles with 800 of those cruising on the highway. With normal driving, I got 50K out of the setup but I had to deal with lots of brake dust and the warped (or imprinted?) rotors. I could do really hard braking from high speed to burn and scrape them straight, but this didn't last as they'd warp again after a few days of normal driving.

I'm glad I kept my stock rotors! I had them turned, slapped on some AC Delco ceramic pads and have been happy ever since. The PowerStop rotors had wear ridges about the thickness of a dime. Botched cryo-tempering job? Rotors made of inferior metal? I'll never know.
 

George B

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I am not sure what I will do about brakes. These have very few miles on them and work really well for me generally. I was just surprised at the feel of them when I tried a fast stop from 100+ mph. Just felt like they left some to be desired. They have brought me under control from 60 and 80 before with confidence Maybe I will try it agin another day to see how I feel about it.
 

Doubeleive

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I am not sure what I will do about brakes. These have very few miles on them and work really well for me generally. I was just surprised at the feel of them when I tried a fast stop from 100+ mph. Just felt like they left some to be desired. They have brought me under control from 60 and 80 before with confidence Maybe I will try it agin another day to see how I feel about it.
I can tell a noticeable difference with the Baer erradispeed's they run about $650 per kit front/rear, I only have the front on but I will be getting the rear as well, that's a price I can reason with, $4k for a system is just not a good "bang for the buck" for me
 

George B

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Went and collected a log file of my BBP tune so I can send it in for a review and modification of the trans shifting. My 1-2 upshift is a bit early when low key driving in town. It upshifts too early when turning left into the lane. It up-shifts at about 15mph right as I am adding throttle to accelerate. So I either have to lug in 2nd or force a downshift which is a little violent.

EDIT: Corrected my bad attitude thanks to a reality check from @mikeyss. Sorry @BlackBearPerf :(
 
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RooTBeeRthe1st

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Went and collected a log file of my BBP tune so I can send it in for a review and modification of the trans shifting. My 1-2 upshift is a bit early when low key driving in town. It upshifts too early when turning left into the lane. It up-shifts at about 15mph right as I am adding throttle to accelerate. So I either have to lug in 2nd or force a downshift which is a little violent. Now if only BBP would respond to my email form 9/7/21 where I asked a question about log files... I suppose I will wait another two weeks once I get this one sent to them. Gonna use up my year of free tunes waiting on service I guess...:rolleyes:
That's an interesting predicament, but I can see how annoying it must be.
Just manual shift that thing for the time being. Lol
 
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mikeyss

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Went and collected a log file of my BBP tune so I can send it in for a review and modification of the trans shifting. My 1-2 upshift is a bit early when low key driving in town. It upshifts too early when turning left into the lane. It up-shifts at about 15mph right as I am adding throttle to accelerate. So I either have to lug in 2nd or force a downshift which is a little violent. Now if only BBP would respond to my email form 9/7/21 where I asked a question about log files... I suppose I will wait another two weeks once I get this one sent to them. Gonna use up my year of free tunes waiting on service I guess...

Went and collected a log file of my BBP tune so I can send it in for a review and modification of the trans shifting. My 1-2 upshift is a bit early when low key driving in town. It upshifts too early when turning left into the lane. It up-shifts at about 15mph right as I am adding throttle to accelerate. So I either have to lug in 2nd or force a downshift which is a little violent. Now if only BBP would respond to my email form 9/7/21 where I asked a question about log files... I suppose I will wait another two weeks once I get this one sent to them. Gonna use up my year of free tunes waiting on service I guess...:rolleyes:
Dude, just be patient, most everyone on the planet is waiting longer for things they want. I also had to wait a while longer to get my updated Blackbear tune once I had my new motor installed and broke in. They are busy, just like everyone else. If you didn't get an answer to your email about files, why not pick up your phone and call them instead of calling them out on here, that's really f**ked up.

I'm sorry if I seem an a**hole here, but PATIENCE goes a LONG way, and no one is ENTITLED to anything, you gotta wait your turn.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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One of my long time tuning buddies said I "Need it on ethanol free fuel to reset the sensor."
So maybe I'll try and blow through a full tank of corn this weekend and throw some regular expensive junk in the tank to try and zero it out and see if I can get it happy again.
 

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