What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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aflumb

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Well after returning the last subwoofer set up. I found another box more in line with what the wife wanted

2f390ac6c682637ece43c1694063bc99.jpg

Filled with a cheap Skar 12 powers by there 500/1 amp. Nothing earth shattering and just enough to make the wife happy.


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1BADI5

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Damn, that’s some weight loss..! I’m sitting at just under 5800. [emoji15]

Well the 2wd PPVs are right around 5300, so I put her on a healthy diet. There is another easy 50# I could drop. By at 5000# I'm happy.....still full interior, ac and comfy daily driver.

If I go with an aluminum block motor I can drop another 120# there.
 

Just Fishing

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machine shop called today!
looks like they bumped me to the front of the line.

got my stuff back, but i have a little concern.
first they should need to add weight to the crank to counter the extra weight of the pistons right?
It looks like they removed weight...

I took my wife's food scale and measured the pistons with rings, wrist pin, etc.
then took the oem with the same stuff.
sure enough, the new stiff is heavier...

:hmmm2:

Next the crank work, googling around it looks like the stock specs are
Main: 2.559
Measured: 2.556

Rod: 2.100 in.
Measured: 2.097

So i'm looking at some undersized bearings to make up for the difference.

found some nice .001 undersized for the mains
gets me closer...

then for the rods, i found some .001 and .002 undersized.
but they appear to come in singles, so i figure i might as well order one of each to see where it lands then order the rest.
 

BG1988

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Well the 2wd PPVs are right around 5300, so I put her on a healthy diet. There is another easy 50# I could drop. By at 5000# I'm happy.....still full interior, ac and comfy daily driver.

If I go with an aluminum block motor I can drop another 120# there.
you all ready put the light weight hood and light weight tail gate?


the hybrid front seats too? (light weight)


the XFE mod ( light weight suspension )
 

iamdub

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Took a little road trip yesterday to haul home some goodies.

First was an Atrend ported enclosure for a Kicker L5/L7. These things are around $175 new and that's probably before shipping. A guy ordered it by mistake and just stashed it in his spare closet (return shipping wasn't worth it) and forgot about it. He was moving out of state and looking to offload it ASAP. I got it for $50:

img_5945-png.278790



I've had a 10" Alpine Type R for years and never taken it out of its original box. I want to build a center console box for it that'll go between the rear captains seats. Considering the labor and cost of materials, $50 for this one as a temporary solution is much more than worth it. It's size is plenty close enough to Alpine's recommendations to work with. I'll notch the four sides of the hole so the sub can be recessed and mounted to a baffle I'll mount on the inside, made of two pieces of 3/4" MDF:

img_5959-jpg.278793



I continued on to Lake Charles, two hours west of home, to meet up with some peeps selling a set of Pirelli Scorpion tires taken off a new F-150 in favor of off-road tires. They have just under 3,000 miles on them. Being 275/45-22, they're kind of an oddball size but they're exactly what I wanted for my "new" 22s and planned further drop. Scored 'em for $380:

img_5952-jpg.278791



The 'ol Hoe did good, averaging 22MPG cruising at 75 there and back. I say "averaging" because it bounced between 19 and 24 depending on the slight angles in the road, but stayed at 22 for the majority of the time:

img_5955-jpg.278792
 
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iamdub

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Today, after sleeping in and dragging ass with breakfast and coffee all morning, I finally got outside around 1230 to replace the fuel pump. At 1400, it was idling on the lift as I walked underneath to check for leaks, etc.


My lift table was a little short, so I added some wooden blocks:

img_5962-jpg.278795



Only took about 30 minutes to get to this point:

img_5964-jpg.278796



Original compared to the new Delphi. I hope the change in design is an improvement:

img_5968-jpg.278797



Comfortable working height. I disconnected and blew out all the lines to ensure there weren't any remaining carbon pellets:

img_5971-jpg.278798





I replaced the pump because the Tahoe would sputter under hard acceleration, starting just under a 1/4 tank and would get progressively worse. I thought the bucket wasn't staying filled and it was losing fuel when it sloshed to the back under hard acceleration. After all this, I'm now thinking that my problem wasn't the bucket not holding fuel. When I started, my gauge was reading a hair over 1/4 tank. When I removed the original pump, the fuel level in the bucket was higher than what was in the tank, indicating that it was NOT leaking. Also, the tank was lighter than I expected. 1/4 tank of fuel should be almost 40lbs, but the tank felt much lighter than this as I wrestled it around to drop it. 40lbs isn't much, but when it's overhead and sloshing around, you'd feel it. When I backed out of the shop, running on the new pump, my gauge was reading about 1/16 tank. Now I'm thinking the level sensor was inaccurate and I was actually out of fuel- "running on fumes" as the saying goes. I went for a test drive, giving it a few WOT starts from a dig and from ~20mph so it'd downshift and accelerate at its hardest. Didn't miss a beat.
 
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cfmistry

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Dorman "updated" valve cover... leaking after 2 years?

Long story kept long, the ticking from my engine had been slowly getting louder over the years. I knew I had some broken manifold bolts, so I took it to a muffler shop to give me an estimate on the job.

While looking the truck over from underneath (and idling), sparkplug #5 was jumping around like it was about to fall out. The tech said "looks like you have a misfire, you should get that sorted out first." I went home and sure enough, plugs #5,7 were both very loose (easily removed with my fingers).

The plugs themselves looked fine but I did note a lot of oil in the area. Turns out my driver's side Dorman valve cover (with the updated baffle design) is leaking. I read around on Amazon and it turns out their gaskets are junk and routinely do this after some time (most posts note 2 years). Heads up for you other guys with this product. I re-torqued my plugs but I am sure the oil dripping on them helped them come out; time to buy the GM part like I should have the first time around!
 
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89Suburban

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Today, after sleeping in and dragging ass with breakfast and coffee all morning, I finally got outside around 1230 to replace the fuel pump. At 1400, it was idling on the lift as I walked underneath to check for leaks, etc.


My lift table was a little short, so I added some wooden blocks:

img_5962-jpg.278795



Only took about 30 minutes to get to this point:

img_5964-jpg.278796



Original compared to Denso. I hope the change in design is an improvement:

img_5968-jpg.278797



Comfortable working height. I disconnected and blew out all the lines to ensure there weren't any remaining carbon pellets:

img_5971-jpg.278798





I replaced the pump because the Tahoe would sputter under hard acceleration, starting just under a 1/4 tank and would get progressively worse. I thought the bucket wasn't staying filled and it was losing fuel when it sloshed to the back under hard acceleration. After all this, I'm now thinking that my problem wasn't the bucket not holding fuel. When I started, my gauge was reading a hair over 1/4 tank. When I removed the original pump, the fuel level in the bucket was higher than what was in the tank, indicating that it was NOT leaking. Also, the tank was lighter than I expected. 1/4 tank of fuel should be almost 40lbs, but the tank felt much lighter than this as I wrestled it around to drop it. 40lbs isn't much, but when it's overhead and sloshing around, you'd feel it. When I backed out of the shop, running on the new pump, my gauge was reading about 1/16 tank. Now I'm thinking the level sensor was inaccurate and I was actually out of fuel- "running on fumes" as the saying goes. I went for a test drive, giving it a few WOT starts from a dig and from ~20mph so it'd downshift and accelerate at its hardest. Didn't miss a beat.


Man I wish I had a lift, Nice work bro.
 

iamdub

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Dorman "updated" valve cover... leaking after 2 years?

Long story kept long, the ticking from my engine had been slowly getting louder over the years. I knew I had some broken manifold bolts, so I took it to a muffler job to give me an estimate on the job.

While looking the truck over from underneath (and idling), sparkplug #5 was jumping around like it was about to fall out. The tech said "looks like you have a misfire, you should get that sorted out first." I went home and sure enough, plugs #5,7 were both very loose (easily removed with my fingers).

The plugs themselves looked fine but I did note a lot of oil in the area. Turns our my driver's side Dorman valve cover (with the updated baffle design) is leaking. I read around on Amazon and it turns out their gaskets are junk and routinely do this after some time (most posts note 2 years). Heads up for you other guys with this product. I re-torqued my plugs but I am sure the oil dripping on them helped them come out; time to buy the GM part like I should have the first time around!

So, the cover is fine, it's just the gasket that's crap and an OEM one should be used?
 

cfmistry

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So, the cover is fine, it's just the gasket that's crap and an OEM one should be used?

That is what I read from most reviewers. Some still had leaks with a new FelPro gasket though, so not sure what that’s about. I can tell you my right gasket and cover are original and leak-free at 183k miles though.
 

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