What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[kbuskill]

Same here. For 1/3 the price, I thought I'd try one. My OEM one failed in an unusual way, not the typical failed inserts. So replacement was the only option. I was pleased to see the aftermarket one had more material in the area where mine broke. It's been in service for a year without issue so far. As far as I'm concerned, they all break too easily. But unless someone comes up with a billet replacement, they're all the same.

They have billet replacements but they sure are proud of them.

Can't remember the name of the company off the top of my head.

 

[Sam Harris]

They have billet replacements but they sure are proud of them.

Can't remember the name of the company off the top of my head.

Yeah, they’re ridiculous: Gruven:

https://www.gruvenparts.com

 

[the_tool_man]

Yeah, they’re ridiculous: Gruven:

https://www.gruvenparts.com

I know about the $40 inserts from them. Ridiculous, as I could have a machine shop make those for less.

But as I said, mine failed a different way. The plastic around the pivot for the unlatch rod broke apart. The only fix would be to make the whole thing out of aluminum. I don't see that on their website.

EDIT: Out of curiosity, I searched and found full billet handles:
https://www.uniqueautodepot.com/All...bv8-Vtosx-phN-ISfisQ2Rcd22YumCNwaAjStEALw_wcB

They only list a front pair. I assume front and rear are interchangeable, though it would be weird to have a key lock cylinder on the rear door, too. If so, $580 for a set in polished aluminum is pretty steep. But if they don't break...

 

[Tonyrodz]

Same here. For 1/3 the price, I thought I'd try one. My OEM one failed in an unusual way, not the typical failed inserts. So replacement was the only option. I was pleased to see the aftermarket one had more material in the area where mine broke. It's been in service for a year without issue so far. As far as I'm concerned, they all break too easily. But unless someone comes up with a billet replacement, they're all the same.

Which door? Driver side?

 

[1BADI5]

Dorman 626-553

Sweet, thanks!

 

[the_tool_man]

Which door? Driver side?

It was my front passenger side handle that failed.

 

[Tonyrodz]

It was my front passenger side handle that failed.

Ok. I wonder if it would've lasted as long as it has if it was the driver's door. Obviously the one that get's the most used.

 

[992dr]

Part number for this?

I'm going to flush all of my coolant when I do the DoD/VVT delete, TSP cam and PRC heads next month

Sounds like a fun project.
I had a different number for the Dorman, 61RQ69J Outlet Heater Hose Set Fits 2007-2014 Chevy Suburban 1500

 

[kbuskill]

I know about the $40 inserts from them. Ridiculous, as I could have a machine shop make those for less.

But as I said, mine failed a different way. The plastic around the pivot for the unlatch rod broke apart. The only fix would be to make the whole thing out of aluminum. I don't see that on their website.

EDIT: Out of curiosity, I searched and found full billet handles:
https://www.uniqueautodepot.com/All...bv8-Vtosx-phN-ISfisQ2Rcd22YumCNwaAjStEALw_wcB

They only list a front pair. I assume front and rear are interchangeable, though it would be weird to have a key lock cylinder on the rear door, too. If so, $580 for a set in polished aluminum is pretty steep. But if they don't break...

Yes, those are the ones. I think there was some other company selling them the last time I looked.

AMI Styling looks like the manufacturer but the search function on their site sucks.

 

[George B]

Speaking to replacement door handles:
I ordered an ultrapower one from Rockauto for the right rear. Thats the door my son uses. Has been 6 months so far and working fine. For the record he is a little ******* stuff. Thus why I had to replace it in the first place.

 

[iamdub]

Not today, but last night before hauling four 5-gallon jugs to the gas station: I removed the core from the port on the fuel rail, slipped a piece of 3/8" (or smaller?) fuel hose over it and turned the key on for about half a second to collect a test sample to see what my alcohol content was. My scan tool showed it to be 23%, but the tester shows it to be at least 85% but looks a little higher. So, I don't know what is making the Tahoe calculate it so low. I filled up with 93 at Texaco (pretty sure it's E10, but may be E0). After about 15 or so miles, I'm showing a calculated alcohol content of 3%. I don't know...

 

[Kee Fuller]

The filter on my aftermarket intake fell off and i didnt know about it. After putting it back on over the past few weeks my rpms jump from 500 to 1000, back and forth at idle. From what im reading i need to possible clean the throttle body. Is it easier to clean on the truck or do i take it off?

Or does the throttle body need to be cleaned at all?

 

[iamdub]

The filter on my aftermarket intake fell off and i didnt know about it. After putting it back on over the past few weeks my rpms jump from 500 to 1000, back and forth at idle. From what im reading i need to possible clean the throttle body. Is it easier to clean on the truck or do i take it off?

Or does the throttle body need to be cleaned at all?

I'd clean the MAF, too. Oiled filter?

 

[Kee Fuller]

I'd clean the MAF, too. Oiled filter?

oil free filter

 

[madmanjustice]

got tired of trying to find a black center console for a decent price so i built one. not perfect and not completely finished but will do the job for now.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The filter on my aftermarket intake fell off and i didnt know about it. After putting it back on over the past few weeks my rpms jump from 500 to 1000, back and forth at idle. From what im reading i need to possible clean the throttle body. Is it easier to clean on the truck or do i take it off?

Or does the throttle body need to be cleaned at all?

Uh oh, now you need a new motor cuz you got it all dirty inside and stuff

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[iamdub]

oil free filter

Good. Clean the MAF and TB and go from there.

 

[cmatt]

I have been using M1 extended performance filters but last time I switched up to the Fram Ultra Guard filters... I have never used Fram on anything before but these new Ultra Guard filters are supposed to be the best out there. Everybody over on "Bob is the oil guy" raves about them so I figured I would try them out and see how the oil sample turns out.

I run a dual remote mount oil filter setup with oversized filters... gives me about 4.5 times the filter capacity over the stock filter, as well as an aftermarket oil cooler.

System capacity is about 9 quarts and about 8 get changed during an oil change, the rest stays in the cooler and lines etc.

I’d love to see pics of this setup please


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[cmatt]

Swapped the plugs and wires. At 135k, they appeared to be originals.

Can you feel the powa?!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[cmatt]

Also flushed the power steering fluid with ACD cold climate fluid. It’s a synthetic version of their PS fluid.

I detached the return hose from the pump and extended it to a drain pan. Also made a vacuum cap to make sure any trapped air was removed.

Old stuff was pretty dark, so I’m thinking this may be its first change at 135k.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk