What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[CaptainAmerica1]

Dude I bought my Yukon in April, just got my plates last week... the struggle is real...

 

[iamdub]

My gps apps do the same.


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Cool! Thanks for the reinforcement.

Awesome news.

Yeah! I've just about driven off all the post-op jitters. Not quite ready for a road trip with the fam (mainly due to the exhaust ), but I think I'll get there soon enough.

I'm glad you are typing all this..... If you are anywhere close to Lake Charles, I couldn't understand a damn word of english you would be SAYING !!

That's cuz it wouldn't be English!

 

[Rocket Man]

Oregon has a moratorium on being pulled over for tags since our DMV’s just opened up again and there’s a huge backlog. Probably won’t have to worry about it until next year. All mine are good until then.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I renew all of our vehicles online and get the stickers or plates in the mail in about a week

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[Rocket Man]

I renew all of our vehicles online and get the stickers or plates in the mail in about a week

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I do that on one, it’s registered in a county with no emissions testing but the other has to be tested which takes all of 10 minutes and I get the tags at the testing station. I always watch the cams at the testing place and go when it’s empty, in the first half of the month. Most people wait until the end of the month so it’s crowded then. But since our DMV offices were closed for over 2 months they said don’t worry if your tags expire.

 

[iamdub]

I renew all of our vehicles online and get the stickers or plates in the mail in about a week

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I do as well. It just slipped my mind this time around cuz, with it being out of commission for so long, I forgot I even had a vehicle.

 

[Idriveaho]

Mine got to 209* with no cooler and ambient around 98 or so...

Mine did too but I was loaded up and traveling 80+ and quite hilly.

 

[Idriveaho]

Wasn’t today but a few days ago got home from vacation. Realized the dire need to replace the upper control arm bushing for the drivers side.

Also saw a tornado in the making leaving Alabama. It didn’t touch down but seeing it a few miles to the east of me was unsettling. And that’s when I realized the governor is set at 98.

 

[Doubeleive]

Wasn’t today but a few days ago got home from vacation. Realized the dire need to replace the upper control arm bushing for the drivers side.

Also saw a tornado in the making leaving Alabama. It didn’t touch down but seeing it a few miles to the east of me was unsettling. And that’s when I realized the governor is set at 98.

View attachment 251247

get it unlocked and she'll do about 136

 

[avalonandl]

The boat is in the lift. I estimate weight w/ trailer at 11,200.....

 

[Sam Harris]

The boat is in the lift. I estimate weight w/ trailer at 11,200.....View attachment 251262

Nice. Not exactly a dinghy. Lol

 

[Rocket Man]

I posted the Kooks long tubes that I couldn't fit on The Machine in the classifieds. It's a good deal for anyone doing non-catted headers. Ceramic coated too.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...non-catted-y-for-09-13-ceramic-coated.119774/

 

[Chert_Detective]

what was the total estimate for the re-gearing

Labor came out to just shy of $1100, gave me the 'old cash discount to $1000 even. I bought front and rear ring/pinion kits with full rebuild kits last year for also right around $1,100. So I'm in $2,100-$2,200.

 

[Chert_Detective]

Had a hectic work week so I took it out for a drive last night to chill out and put some more shakedown miles on it. I've also been trying to burn off the tank of 93 to refill with E85. I only got it down to 1/4 tank so I filled it up from there. Fuel mileage dropped 4-5 MPG and I can't tell if there's any more power. What I can tell is that it was about $.81/gal cheaper and I found a solution for the catless exhaust smell. The exhaust smells almost like it did with cats.

Should look in to the AEM 30-4910 AFR/E Content sensor and gauge. That's what I'm running and love it. Afr hooks up just like normal, for ethanol content you can run your own power and ground supply or just tap in to the existing sensor, and then tap into the one wire feed to the computer. It will give you afr and ethanol percentage there at the gauge for you to see. I keep a log book normally anyways and record what mileage I do things at, whether it be just filling up or wipers, to more major things. But it's nice to know what mileage I filled up at, how far I drov . And what the before and after ethanol percentages are.

 

[BG1988]

Why did GM switch from the A/C tensioner to the Stretch-to-Fit belt anyways? The tensioner on mine works perfectly and was easy to replace as was the belt.

less parts less cost?

 

[iamdub]

Should look in to the AEM 30-4910 AFR/E Content sensor and gauge. That's what I'm running and love it. Afr hooks up just like normal, for ethanol content you can run your own power and ground supply or just tap in to the existing sensor, and then tap into the one wire feed to the computer. It will give you afr and ethanol percentage there at the gauge for you to see. I keep a log book normally anyways and record what mileage I do things at, whether it be just filling up or wipers, to more major things. But it's nice to know what mileage I filled up at, how far I drov . And what the before and after ethanol percentages are.

That's awesome they have a 2-in-1 gauge. Thanks for the lead!

 

[Rocket Man]

Should look in to the AEM 30-4910 AFR/E Content sensor and gauge. That's what I'm running and love it. Afr hooks up just like normal, for ethanol content you can run your own power and ground supply or just tap in to the existing sensor, and then tap into the one wire feed to the computer. It will give you afr and ethanol percentage there at the gauge for you to see. I keep a log book normally anyways and record what mileage I do things at, whether it be just filling up or wipers, to more major things. But it's nice to know what mileage I filled up at, how far I drov . And what the before and after ethanol percentages are.

I run their 30-4900 dual wideband failsafe gauge. It’s configurable for several different functions and you can hook up a relay to kill the engine or limit throttle if a preset condition like an extremely lean situation happens, so you don’t blow up your engine. I just use if to read AFR and boost, never wired in the failsafe option. I like it.

 

[Glisella]

So I was changing the oil today and I guess last time I put my filter on too tight. I only use ACDelco PF48E but after this I might change to either k&n with the nut on the bottom or something else. Anyway my cap wrench removal tool wasn't working it was just slipping around the filter and my oil filter pliers wouldn't work, as you guys know there's really no room to get it around the filter. I don't have a strap wrench either. So I went with the old punch a hole into the side of the filter and that didn't work, although I have had luck in the past on other vehicles doing that. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles so that means I've done it about 35 times on this truck already without any issues.

Well one thing leads to another and eventually the whole can is ripped off and all that is left is what you see in the picture. It's the top 1/4" of the oil filter. The whole can peeled away and the insides fell out. Eventually I got it removed by grinding away and chiseling away at all the little holes around the center to make it a huge gap where I was able to get a pair of vice grips around and unscrew. I was wondering if anyone knows if you could replace just the threaded piece that the filter screws onto or do I need to potentially replace the whole pan? There is a nut towards the top of the nipple once the filter is removed.

The new filter went on fine and there are no leaks but the bottom two threads were a little mangled, nothing too crazy but enough to make me look into replacing next time I do the oil. I didn't want to try messing around with the nut to see if I can remove it because it's more important that I have another 5,000 miles to consider either replacing the whole pan or get the right part if that piece can be removed and replaced only. I looked on RockAuto and didn't see anything except new pans that have the threaded nipple on it already.

08 Yukon XL Denali.

 

[Glisella]

So I was changing the oil today and I guess last time I put my filter on too tight. I only use ACDelco PF48E but after this I might change to either k&n with the nut on the bottom or something else. Anyway my cap wrench removal tool wasn't working it was just slipping around the filter and my oil filter pliers wouldn't work, as you guys know there's really no room to get it around the filter. I don't have a strap wrench either. So I went with the old punch a hole into the side of the filter and that didn't work, although I have had luck in the past on other vehicles doing that. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles so that means I've done it about 35 times on this truck already without any issues.

Well one thing leads to another and eventually the whole can is ripped off and all that is left is what you see in the picture. It's the top 1/4" of the oil filter. The whole can peeled away and the insides fell out. Eventually I got it removed by grinding away and chiseling away at all the little holes around the center to make it a huge gap where I was able to get a pair of vice grips around and unscrew. I was wondering if anyone knows if you could replace just the threaded piece that the filter screws onto or do I need to potentially replace the whole pan? There is a nut towards the top of the nipple once the filter is removed.

The new filter went on fine and there are no leaks but the bottom two threads were a little mangled, nothing too crazy but enough to make me look into replacing next time I do the oil. I didn't want to try messing around with the nut to see if I can remove it because it's more important that I have another 5,000 miles to consider either replacing the whole pan or get the right part if that piece can be removed and replaced only. I looked on RockAuto and didn't see anything except new pans that have the threaded nipple on it already.
View attachment 251327

08 Yukon XL Denali.

This picture of a new pan shows what I'm referring to, anyone know if it's possible to just buy the small nipple/nut that screws into the pan and replace that only?

 

[iamdub]

This picture of a new pan shows what I'm referring to, anyone know if it's possible to just buy the small nipple/nut that screws into the pan and replace that only?

View attachment 251331

Yes, that part can be replaced. It's obviously a separate part that is screwed into the pan since it's steel and the pan is aluminum. I've always known them as an "oil filter adapter" since it's what is used when you're adapting a filter to a filter boss, such as on an aftermarket remote filter kit, etc.

...After a little digging, it looks like it is part number 12552357 and the proper name for it is "fitting" or "connector". Do your research to confirm as there are different threads sizes between the years.