Sparksalot
Elite Member
Snow banks are always fun. This was late July in 2019 in the Snowy Range of Wyoming. I actually had a hard time finding a place to camp. I’d been in there the year before, but that campsite still had 4 feet of snow in it.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
(Product review time)
Been using that little astro light for a bit now.
Great design, magnet is actually pretty dang good.
Holds it solid.
Hanging out under the engine with the pan off, the little flex joint is awesome.
Mostly have been sticking it to the transmission pan.
Also a nice little flat surface under the engine mounts.
Handles the undercoating and crap stuck to that coating with ease.
Good to see a tool manufacturer actually put a decent magnet in something.
Usb c charging port won't work with my samsung charger.
Just read on the reviews you need an older style a with a c cable to charge it.
Comes with a usb charger for it.
So that just lives in the tool box.
The little light on the tip is awesome.
Run it with just the tip light to light up tight areas, and not flooding the work space with too much light.
Made use of that while checking out my cylinder walls from the crankcase view.
And apparently you can dim the light, just read that on a review.
Planning to figure that out today.
Might use less power... lol
I haven't found a use for the "flood light" feature yet...
Well other than blinding my self when i blindly push buttons to turn the light on, and then hit the wrong button... lol
I have other led shop lights, their battery life is much better.
But they are also larger and not as bright.
I found i really need to pay attention and turn that light off before i crawl out from under the hoe.
It does seem to charge fast, so it's not too big of a deal.
Debating if i want a second one, but this time spring for the wireless charging pad... lol
Would be slick to mount it to the side of the tool box.
Anyways, this is my most expensive work light, and I'm enjoying it.
Been using that little astro light for a bit now.
Great design, magnet is actually pretty dang good.
Holds it solid.
Hanging out under the engine with the pan off, the little flex joint is awesome.
Mostly have been sticking it to the transmission pan.
Also a nice little flat surface under the engine mounts.
Handles the undercoating and crap stuck to that coating with ease.
Good to see a tool manufacturer actually put a decent magnet in something.
Usb c charging port won't work with my samsung charger.
Just read on the reviews you need an older style a with a c cable to charge it.
Comes with a usb charger for it.
So that just lives in the tool box.
The little light on the tip is awesome.
Run it with just the tip light to light up tight areas, and not flooding the work space with too much light.
Made use of that while checking out my cylinder walls from the crankcase view.
And apparently you can dim the light, just read that on a review.
Planning to figure that out today.
Might use less power... lol
I haven't found a use for the "flood light" feature yet...
Well other than blinding my self when i blindly push buttons to turn the light on, and then hit the wrong button... lol
I have other led shop lights, their battery life is much better.
But they are also larger and not as bright.
I found i really need to pay attention and turn that light off before i crawl out from under the hoe.
It does seem to charge fast, so it's not too big of a deal.
Debating if i want a second one, but this time spring for the wireless charging pad... lol
Would be slick to mount it to the side of the tool box.
Anyways, this is my most expensive work light, and I'm enjoying it.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Some areas around here are only passable late August.
I'm hoping to have the hoe fixed before the next round of snow... lol
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
One area right above me (like 30min away)
This was very early in the vette build, i have the door panels torn apart, so some rattles from that.
+I have a cell phone mounted to the windshield, so you get all of the noises.
Light throttle/heavy rattle, that's my door guts rattling around.
Snow banks higher than the ol vette.
Use headphones to listen to the pretty exhaust notes.
Just thinking about all of the little things i have done to the car since then...
During this run, i was also trying out my new steering shaft (retrofitted one from a later model)
and the brake system, that was also retrofitted from a later model.
I also needed some high load, with high & medium RPM runs with my ECM in learn mode via wideband.
best way to do that while staying under 100mph = canyons!
Record started with me just flipping to a newly learned tune.
the road below that starting point was a little more interesting with lots of banked turns...
This pass goes from Pineview reservoir to Wyoming
The picture in my sig image, that's these mountains in the background.
And as you can see, the car needs a paint job one day.
Original paint, and the clearcoat looks even worse now.
Original plan was to do a straight silver, and ditch the two tone.
but now i'm not sure.
Might go with a straight color, and then vinyl wrap the two tone... who knows.
In the end, it's just a cheap car that i beat on and enjoy.
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Sparksalot
Elite Member
Im sitting in thecopcar at Sonic eating lunch. The exhaust note reverberated quite nicely.One area right above me (like 30min away)
This was very early in the vette build, i have the door panels torn apart, so some rattles from that.
+I have a cell phone mounted to the windshield, so you get all of the noises.
Light throttle/heavy rattle, that's my door guts rattling around.
Snow banks higher than the ol vette.
Use headphones to listen to the pretty exhaust notes.
Just thinking about all of the little things i have done to the car since then...
During this run, i was also trying out my new steering shaft (retrofitted one from a later model)
and the brake system, that was also retrofitted from a later model.
I also needed some high load, with high & medium RPM runs with my ECM in learn mode via wideband.
best way to do that while staying under 100mph = canyons!
Record started with me just flipping to a newly learned tune.
the road below that starting point was a little more interesting with lots of banked turns...
This pass goes from Pineview reservoir to Wyoming
The picture in my sig image, that's these mountains in the background.
And as you can see, the car needs a paint job one day.
Original paint, and the clearcoat looks even worse now.
Original plan was to do a straight silver, and ditch the two tone.
but now i'm not sure.
Might go with a straight color, and then vinyl wrap the two tone... who knows.
In the end, it's just a cheap car that i beat on and enjoy.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
My gauge cluster died a few weeks ago on that car.
Found that out one morning when i was hoping to go for a little drive up the canyon.
Weighing my options, one is to have that cluster rebuilt so i can keep the atari theme that i do enjoy.
stock,
It's fun and very 80's ^
but it's also laggy, the car can rev and accelerate faster than the gauge can display.
i get some giggles from that.
The other option is i go for something like this,
that would support later mods, especially if i decide to dump the current intake and go for mo powar later.
But i'm in no hurry right now, i'll probably try fixing the cluster my self in the end.
(I believe the power supply popped)
Another issue is here in the red circle
little very 80's switches like doc browns time machine.
they control different functions/outputs from the digi dash.
I sorta love that.
If i dumped the dash and went for more of a "Race" them, each function would have it's own gauge.
I guess i could try and wire them into different functions, like fuel pump, fans, etc...
more to think about later on that.
It's Nice to think about something else other than the tahoe right now.
And back to the hoe,
I got back from the hardware store, ended up with a few different thickness of sheet metal.
The thinnest washer i could find is made out of brass.
Pretty sure i want to keep that as steel since i think the brass may compress/distort over time.
Found that out one morning when i was hoping to go for a little drive up the canyon.
Weighing my options, one is to have that cluster rebuilt so i can keep the atari theme that i do enjoy.
stock,
It's fun and very 80's ^
but it's also laggy, the car can rev and accelerate faster than the gauge can display.
i get some giggles from that.
The other option is i go for something like this,
that would support later mods, especially if i decide to dump the current intake and go for mo powar later.
But i'm in no hurry right now, i'll probably try fixing the cluster my self in the end.
(I believe the power supply popped)
Another issue is here in the red circle
little very 80's switches like doc browns time machine.
they control different functions/outputs from the digi dash.
I sorta love that.
If i dumped the dash and went for more of a "Race" them, each function would have it's own gauge.
I guess i could try and wire them into different functions, like fuel pump, fans, etc...
more to think about later on that.
It's Nice to think about something else other than the tahoe right now.
And back to the hoe,
I got back from the hardware store, ended up with a few different thickness of sheet metal.
The thinnest washer i could find is made out of brass.
Pretty sure i want to keep that as steel since i think the brass may compress/distort over time.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Atari all the way!My gauge cluster died a few weeks ago on that car.
Found that out one morning when i was hoping to go for a little drive up the canyon.
Weighing my options, one is to have that cluster rebuilt so i can keep the atari theme that i do enjoy.
stock,
View attachment 350075
It's fun and very 80's ^
but it's also laggy, the car can rev and accelerate faster than the gauge can display.
i get some giggles from that.
The other option is i go for something like this,
View attachment 350076
that would support later mods, especially if i decide to dump the current intake and go for mo powar later.
But i'm in no hurry right now, i'll probably try fixing the cluster my self in the end.
(I believe the power supply popped)
Another issue is here in the red circle
View attachment 350077
little very 80's switches like doc browns time machine.
they control different functions/outputs from the digi dash.
I sorta love that.
If i dumped the dash and went for more of a "Race" them, each function would have it's own gauge.
I guess i could try and wire them into different functions, like fuel pump, fans, etc...
more to think about later on that.
It's Nice to think about something else other than the tahoe right now.
And back to the hoe,
I got back from the hardware store, ended up with a few different thickness of sheet metal.
The thinnest washer i could find is made out of brass.
Pretty sure i want to keep that as steel since i think the brass may compress/distort over time.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I’d go analog if it were mine.My gauge cluster died a few weeks ago on that car.
Found that out one morning when i was hoping to go for a little drive up the canyon.
Weighing my options, one is to have that cluster rebuilt so i can keep the atari theme that i do enjoy.
stock,
View attachment 350075
It's fun and very 80's ^
but it's also laggy, the car can rev and accelerate faster than the gauge can display.
i get some giggles from that.
The other option is i go for something like this,
View attachment 350076
that would support later mods, especially if i decide to dump the current intake and go for mo powar later.
But i'm in no hurry right now, i'll probably try fixing the cluster my self in the end.
(I believe the power supply popped)
Another issue is here in the red circle
View attachment 350077
little very 80's switches like doc browns time machine.
they control different functions/outputs from the digi dash.
I sorta love that.
If i dumped the dash and went for more of a "Race" them, each function would have it's own gauge.
I guess i could try and wire them into different functions, like fuel pump, fans, etc...
more to think about later on that.
It's Nice to think about something else other than the tahoe right now.
And back to the hoe,
I got back from the hardware store, ended up with a few different thickness of sheet metal.
The thinnest washer i could find is made out of brass.
Pretty sure i want to keep that as steel since i think the brass may compress/distort over time.
Hooray for cruise control throttle on the Echo Blower! 
B
By the way this works GREAT holy mackerel! Carpet is dry already, padding is almost there.
By the way this works GREAT holy mackerel! Carpet is dry already, padding is almost there.
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Finally got around to fixing my transmission shift cable bushing at the transmission. I removed the shift lever from the transmission and drilled out the little nub that protrudes so I could insert a 1/2”x1/2” clevis pin and cotter pin to connect the transmission cable that way. Reassembled with a washer between the shift cable bushing and the shift lever, as well as a washer on the other side of the shift bushing so as not to interfere with cotter pin and shift bushing. Seems to have worked well.
Last edited:
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I did that trick to cool my air compressor while the rings seated.
temps were getting up to 300f, so i bungee corded my leaf blower so it would blow against the heads (v4 compressor).
I don't know if it helped or not, but was able to keep the heads at a nice 200f while the rings seated.
I don't get much blow by from the crankcase vent, so I call it a win.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
My man!
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
I have a slightly older version of that blower. I love the cruise control button, too. Mine doesn't have the black guard over the air intake like yours. I guess that would keep it from sucking my shirt against it, and choking airflow.
RooTBeeRthe1st
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2018
- Posts
- 1,226
- Reaction score
- 2,854
Did a little test to see how much of a difference the resonator will make, sounds a lot more stock with it. Hoping I've got enough room to shove that giant can up under there... And then hopefully get rid of all of the drone while towing.
not your source of wet floor unless you took it swimming, take it through a drive thru car wash and then check it right afterwards
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Last night i got smacked by the front axle a few times.
Surprised i don't have a black eye from it. Haha
I thought i could get it in without using ratchet straps to compress the cv axles.
Answer, maybe but it's way easier to compress those things out of the way!
The hoe is mostly back together now.
I ended up not adding shims to the converter
Converter setback came out to be .120
I also didn't like how the converter felt when sliding into the flywheel.
I had that issue with original assembly.
So i gpt the bright idea to use an air blow gun with a long nose to add grease to the snout while the converter was slid all the way back into the converter
I used what i had under the truck with me.
Redline engine assembly lube.
Then worked the converter back and forth, loaded some more lube into the air nosle and gave it a few more squirts as i rotated it.
Once done i could slide the converter all the way to the flywheel with ease.
Might be my problem right there.
I did grease the crank snout, but i didn't go crazy to spread it around.
Watching some youtube last night, seems the flex plate needs to flex as the converter is pushed into the flywheel by the transmission.
If that interface isn't smooth, it could have caused some binding...
If i could go back, i would have done some light polishing/smoothing for good measure.
Next task, figure out where the heck i put a box that should have 4 oil filters... lol
Surprised i don't have a black eye from it. Haha
I thought i could get it in without using ratchet straps to compress the cv axles.
Answer, maybe but it's way easier to compress those things out of the way!
The hoe is mostly back together now.
I ended up not adding shims to the converter
Converter setback came out to be .120
I also didn't like how the converter felt when sliding into the flywheel.
I had that issue with original assembly.
So i gpt the bright idea to use an air blow gun with a long nose to add grease to the snout while the converter was slid all the way back into the converter
I used what i had under the truck with me.
Redline engine assembly lube.
Then worked the converter back and forth, loaded some more lube into the air nosle and gave it a few more squirts as i rotated it.
Once done i could slide the converter all the way to the flywheel with ease.
Might be my problem right there.
I did grease the crank snout, but i didn't go crazy to spread it around.
Watching some youtube last night, seems the flex plate needs to flex as the converter is pushed into the flywheel by the transmission.
If that interface isn't smooth, it could have caused some binding...
If i could go back, i would have done some light polishing/smoothing for good measure.
Next task, figure out where the heck i put a box that should have 4 oil filters... lol
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Oh, and when installing my oil drain plug with the magnet, i noticed it liked to stick to the pan.
Me wondering wth could be magnetic took a closer look.
Apparently i have steel thread inserts on my drain plug!
Looks like it might be factory, or atleast very well done.
I can't even see a hint of a seam line.
Just a slight color difference.
Me wondering wth could be magnetic took a closer look.
Apparently i have steel thread inserts on my drain plug!
Looks like it might be factory, or atleast very well done.
I can't even see a hint of a seam line.
Just a slight color difference.
I hope those are OEM T's. The aftermarket ones are known to fail fairly quickly, especially Dormans.
