What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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the_tool_man

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I was able to carve out a few hours this morning with a buddy to replace my broken driver side motor mount. The old one was almost completely ripped in half. I'd prepped by watching a bunch of videos on it, and picked what I thought was the easiest method. We went in from above, removing the steering shaft and exhaust manifold heat shield. We had to rip apart the mount heat shield to make room. My buddy is 4 inches taller than me, and has longer arms. So he reached the rear two mount-to-block bolts. If I were to do it solo, I'd have put it on jack stands and removed the front wheel to access those bolts. Overall it wasn't terrible. Total time was under 2 hours.

The truck is much better now. No more clunk when taking off. And if the H3 mount transmits more NVH than the stock Denali one, I sure can't tell. We saved the other side for another day, as weather is moving in, and we had family coming to see my dying MIL.

I found my exhaust leak, too. The rear most driver side manifold bolt is broken off. It HAD to be that one, of course. Thankfully my buddy does lots of car repair and is a much better welder than I am. We've made a plan to fix it when we have more time.

New H3 mount vs. old torn one:

20210206_114213.jpg


Close-up of torn one. Thanks GM.

20210206_114129.jpg


Lastly I got to break in my new cordless ratchet. It's a cheap knockoff of a Milwaukee. But it got good reviews. It worked like a champ, saving a bunch of time spent hunched over the radiator support.

20210206_170323.jpg
 
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89Suburban

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I was able to carve out a few hours this morning with a buddy to replace my broken driver side motor mount. The old one was almost completely ripped in half. I'd prepped by watching a bunch of videos on it, and picked what I thought was the easiest method. We went in from above, removing the steering shaft and exhaust manifold heat shield. We had to rip apart the mount heat shield to make room. My buddy is 4 inches taller than me, and has longer arms. So he reached the rear two mount-to-block bolts. If I were to do it solo, I'd have put it on jack stands and removed the front wheel to access those bolts. Overall it wasn't terrible. Total time was under 2 hours.

The truck is much better now. No more clunk when taking off. And if the H3 mount transmits more NVH than the stock Denali one, I sure can't tell. We saved the other side for another day, as weather is moving in, and we had family coming to see my dying MIL.

I found my exhaust leak, too. The rear most driver side manifold bolt is broken off. It HAD to be that one, of course. Thankfully my buddy does lots of car repair and is a much better welder than I am. We've made a plan to fix it when we have more time.

New H3 mount vs. old torn one:

View attachment 270043

Close-up of torn one. Thanks GM.

View attachment 270044

Lastly I got to break in my new cordless ratchet. It's a cheap knockoff of a Milwaukee. But it got good reviews. It worked like a champ, saving a bunch of time spent hunched over the radiator support.

View attachment 270057


2 more things I want. :(
 

wsteele

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Need to catch up, but the truck is so dirty from muddy forest roads, pictures will have to wait till my killer detail kid gets back in town.

Trimmed the valance (air dam) for more ground clearance. Now it is only the width of my blue painters tape.

Did a 1.5” front level by adding a spacer on the lower front strut mounts and adding a spacer bracket to raise the Autoride position sensor, so it doesn’t know I raised the body. It is a secret. :)

Added a Moroso catch can between the PCV and Intake Manifold.
 

Rocket Man

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Need to catch up, but the truck is so dirty from muddy forest roads, pictures will have to wait till my killer detail kid gets back in town.

Trimmed the valance (air dam) for more ground clearance. Now it is only the width of my blue painters tape.

Did a 1.5” front level by adding a spacer on the lower front strut mounts and adding a spacer bracket to raise the Autoride position sensor, so it doesn’t know I raised the body. It is a secret. :)

Added a Moroso catch can between the PCV and Intake Manifold.
You can buy threaded rod for the autoride sensor links and make them the correct length, so you don’t have to remount anything. Works great for lifting or lowering, and still utilize the auto level.
 

wsteele

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You can buy threaded rod for the autoride sensor links and make them the correct length, so you don’t have to remount anything. Works great for lifting or lowering, and still utilize the auto level.

I actually had some rod that I planned to thread, but it was easier to just mount a small plate where the lower link attaches and then relocate that link up on that plate, basically just a small piece of steel with two holes and a screw and some Loctite.
 

Rocket Man

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I actually had some rod that I planned to thread, but it was easier to just mount a small plate where the lower link attaches and then relocate that link up on that plate, basically just a small piece of steel with two holes and a screw and some Loctite.
I bought a length of all thread and cut it to different lengths , took 2 minutes. Plus it allowed me to experiment with different lengths until it sat perfect. I was running 26’s at the time and I was lowered 4” in the back so I had to get it perfect. It took some experimenting. Pop the links off, replace the rods, reinstall and check ride height. 1/8” rod length difference equals about 1/4” ride height iirc, might have been 3/8”.
 

wsteele

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I bought a length of all thread and cut it to different lengths , took 2 minutes. Plus it allowed me to experiment with different lengths until it sat perfect. I was running 26’s at the time and I was lowered 4” in the back so I had to get it perfect. It took some experimenting. Pop the links off, replace the rods, reinstall and check ride height. 1/8” rod length difference equals about 1/4” ride height iirc, might have been 3/8”.


For me, I had planned to thread some rod, but couldn’t find my dies (I had moved twice in the last two years, new house didn’t get built on time and the old house sold in 3 days). So I just cut some flat stock and drilled the holes.
 

Just Fishing

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I found my exhaust leak, too. The rear most driver side manifold bolt is broken off. It HAD to be that one, of course. Thankfully my buddy does lots of car repair and is a much better welder than I am. We've made a plan to fix it when we have more time.

I was "lucky" to have taken care of it while i had the heads off for the dod delete.
left rear most exhaust bolt had been broken some time ago.
I'm sure if left it would have gotten noticeable over the years.

It was hard enough just getting it back on, i can't imagine trying to get that broken bolt extracted with the heads on...
 

Rocket Man

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I'd be concerned of rusting over time, unless stainless rods or plates were used.

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I would too if I lived in St Louis! But even though nothing rusts here, I did actually buy some long stainless threaded Allen head screws and used those after I got the right length figured out. Just cut the heads off, cut to length, deburr.
 

Geoffsfas10

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I would too if I lived in St Louis! But even though nothing rusts here, I did actually buy some long stainless threaded Allen head screws and used those after I got the right length figured out. Just cut the heads off, cut to length, deburr.
you should see all the salt they spread on the roads today for whats turning out to be a bust of a snow storm.....its is cold as hell though
 

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