Ok then understood. You get a pass for sure.66-72hr work weeks don't give me much time [emoji1745] family over toys until the kiddos get older
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Ok then understood. You get a pass for sure.66-72hr work weeks don't give me much time [emoji1745] family over toys until the kiddos get older
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Well that was easy.. I was waiting to get scolded more. No excuses!!!!Ok then understood. You get a pass for sure.![]()
Nice work. That’s not too easy inside a garage.I replaced the starter in a Taco Bell parking lot in the rain. That was fun.
I'm just not the tinkering kind of guy nor do I have the time.
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Depends on which dipstick you’re referring to and how often you “check it”.BTW, checking your dipstick is not "tinkering".
I gotta seriously clean this thing up this weekend. Also probably gonna order some factory headlight housings and paint/retrofit them soon
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I replaced the starter in a Taco Bell parking lot in the rain. That was fun.
I was able to carve out a few hours this morning with a buddy to replace my broken driver side motor mount. The old one was almost completely ripped in half. I'd prepped by watching a bunch of videos on it, and picked what I thought was the easiest method. We went in from above, removing the steering shaft and exhaust manifold heat shield. We had to rip apart the mount heat shield to make room. My buddy is 4 inches taller than me, and has longer arms. So he reached the rear two mount-to-block bolts. If I were to do it solo, I'd have put it on jack stands and removed the front wheel to access those bolts. Overall it wasn't terrible. Total time was under 2 hours.
The truck is much better now. No more clunk when taking off. And if the H3 mount transmits more NVH than the stock Denali one, I sure can't tell. We saved the other side for another day, as weather is moving in, and we had family coming to see my dying MIL.
I found my exhaust leak, too. The rear most driver side manifold bolt is broken off. It HAD to be that one, of course. Thankfully my buddy does lots of car repair and is a much better welder than I am. We've made a plan to fix it when we have more time.
New H3 mount vs. old torn one:
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Close-up of torn one. Thanks GM.
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Lastly I got to break in my new cordless ratchet. It's a cheap knockoff of a Milwaukee. But it got good reviews. It worked like a champ, saving a bunch of time spent hunched over the radiator support.
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Yeah, thank goodness I always keep a small set of sockets and a rachet in the storage under the front jump seat.Damn that’s rough, good job hoss.
You can buy threaded rod for the autoride sensor links and make them the correct length, so you don’t have to remount anything. Works great for lifting or lowering, and still utilize the auto level.Need to catch up, but the truck is so dirty from muddy forest roads, pictures will have to wait till my killer detail kid gets back in town.
Trimmed the valance (air dam) for more ground clearance. Now it is only the width of my blue painters tape.
Did a 1.5” front level by adding a spacer on the lower front strut mounts and adding a spacer bracket to raise the Autoride position sensor, so it doesn’t know I raised the body. It is a secret.
Added a Moroso catch can between the PCV and Intake Manifold.
You can buy threaded rod for the autoride sensor links and make them the correct length, so you don’t have to remount anything. Works great for lifting or lowering, and still utilize the auto level.
I bought a length of all thread and cut it to different lengths , took 2 minutes. Plus it allowed me to experiment with different lengths until it sat perfect. I was running 26’s at the time and I was lowered 4” in the back so I had to get it perfect. It took some experimenting. Pop the links off, replace the rods, reinstall and check ride height. 1/8” rod length difference equals about 1/4” ride height iirc, might have been 3/8”.I actually had some rod that I planned to thread, but it was easier to just mount a small plate where the lower link attaches and then relocate that link up on that plate, basically just a small piece of steel with two holes and a screw and some Loctite.
I bought a length of all thread and cut it to different lengths , took 2 minutes. Plus it allowed me to experiment with different lengths until it sat perfect. I was running 26’s at the time and I was lowered 4” in the back so I had to get it perfect. It took some experimenting. Pop the links off, replace the rods, reinstall and check ride height. 1/8” rod length difference equals about 1/4” ride height iirc, might have been 3/8”.
I found my exhaust leak, too. The rear most driver side manifold bolt is broken off. It HAD to be that one, of course. Thankfully my buddy does lots of car repair and is a much better welder than I am. We've made a plan to fix it when we have more time.
I would too if I lived in St Louis! But even though nothing rusts here, I did actually buy some long stainless threaded Allen head screws and used those after I got the right length figured out. Just cut the heads off, cut to length, deburr.I'd be concerned of rusting over time, unless stainless rods or plates were used.
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you should see all the salt they spread on the roads today for whats turning out to be a bust of a snow storm.....its is cold as hell thoughI would too if I lived in St Louis! But even though nothing rusts here, I did actually buy some long stainless threaded Allen head screws and used those after I got the right length figured out. Just cut the heads off, cut to length, deburr.