What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

Is there a good ground at the other side? I get 14vdc at the tabs with the truck running and the defroster connected. You could check continuity to ground on that side.

You will show 12v across the entire grid with your meter grounded to the vehicle. But pull off the wires to the defroster and you’ll only get 12v at the passenger side, the driver side is the ground. My mistake was checking for 12v to the grid but with no ground since that tab had no continuity I didn’t see power anywhere on the grid so I assumed I wasn’t getting 12v from the switch. I had no continuity to ground on the ds, since there was no continuity between the wire and grid.

 

[George B]

You will show 12v across the entire grid with your meter grounded to the vehicle. But pull off the wires to the defroster and you’ll only get 12v at the passenger side, the driver side is the ground. My mistake was checking for 12v to the grid but with no ground since that tab had no continuity I didn’t see power anywhere on the grid so I assumed I wasn’t getting 12v from the switch. I had no continuity to ground on the ds, since there was no continuity between the wire and grid.

Was that a side you previously repaired with the frost fighter?

 

[Rocket Man]

Was that a side you previously repaired with the frost fighter?

No. I only repaired a couple of the grid lines out in the middle. This was an unmolested tab that looked fine, that’s why it stumped me for a minute. I couldn’t tell it lost continuity by looking at it, it looked factory fresh. Just wasn’t making contact. Weird.

 

[George B]

No. I only repaired a couple of the grid lines out in the middle. This was an unmolested tab that looked fine, that’s why it stumped me for a minute. I couldn’t tell it lost continuity by looking at it, it looked factory fresh. Just wasn’t making contact. Weird.

Yeah, they are soldered on so it’s odd its not making contact.

 

[iamdub]

so what's recommended for a roller cam break-in?
I was thinking standard Mobil 1 with maybe some zinc additive for good measure.

I have 10w30 VR1 racing oil on hand, but i think it's overkill for a roller...

I use Super Tech conventional 10W-30 for the first startup after major surgery on an LS.

 

[iamdub]

View attachment 265155

Meh. Normal and fine.

 

[Just Fishing]

I looked down at the remaining cam bearings, they all look great and appear to have not moved.
so...

Camshaft has been installed,
Timing gears and chain installed.

Realized i got a little too motivated for the camshaft install, I wanted to clean the top of the block to perfection first... oh well.
Lots of blue paper towels to plug things...



Took the oil pump and did some light touchup and blending of the ridges to improve flow...
I didn't go crazy due to not wanting to f with too much of the anodized finish... but it's an improvement for sure.

Mocked up the oil pump, about to re-watch a youtube vid on how to check the pump clearances...

My pump for reference is the Melling 10296 (used the Melling website to pull the PN).

Comes with 3 springs
Red is installed
Blue is included
And some Copo Camaro spring

Pumps: https://www.melling.com/product/gm-aluminum-oil-pumps-select-performance/


So the installed red spring says it's +10psi
Included blue "stock" spring says a reduction of 8-10 psi
"Copo Camaro" spring included says "+25psi over the enclosed blue spring"


Thinking I'm going to rock the red spring....
(Regulator has been pulled due to the pump cleanup, so now is the time for me to make the final decision)

Someone mentioned a possible need to put a resistor on the oil pressure gauge sensor?

 

[Tonyrodz]

I looked down at the remaining cam bearings, they all look great and appear to have not moved.
so...

Camshaft has been installed,
Timing gears and chain installed.

Realized i got a little too motivated for the camshaft install, I wanted to clean the top of the block to perfection first... oh well.
Lots of blue paper towels to plug things...



Took the oil pump and did some light touchup and blending of the ridges to improve flow...
I didn't go crazy due to not wanting to f with too much of the anodized finish... but it's an improvement for sure.

Mocked up the oil pump, about to re-watch a youtube vid on how to check the pump clearances...

My pump for reference is the Melling 10296 (used the Melling website to pull the PN).

Comes with 3 springs
Red is installed
Blue is included
And some Copo Camaro spring

Pumps: https://www.melling.com/product/gm-aluminum-oil-pumps-select-performance/


So the installed red spring says it's +10psi
Included blue "stock" spring says a reduction of 8-10 psi
"Copo Camaro" spring included says "+25psi over the enclosed blue spring"


Thinking I'm going to rock the red spring....
(Regulator has been pulled due to the pump cleanup, so now is the time for me to make the final decision)

Someone mentioned a possible need to put a resistor on the oil pressure gauge sensor?

I think that was @kbuskill who did that.

 

[Just Fishing]

@kbuskill
If you happen to have any more information about that little mod.
Resistor type, location/wire, etc.

 

[kbuskill]

@kbuskill
If you happen to have any more information about that little mod.
Resistor type, location/wire, etc.

It is in my "Mod" thread... I will see if I can dig it up for you....

Here you go...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...urb-ltz-mod-thread.100141/page-4#post-1204255

This post and the one below it should give you the information you need.

You don't have to use the pigtail extension, but to me it makes more sense than cutting up the trucks harness.

This isn't the one I bought but it is basically the same one...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323792964944

That and a 300ohm 5-7watt resistor and some wire, solder, and heat shrink and you should be good to go.

You could always try running it first and see if it is needed. In my case it was.

 

[Just Fishing]

It is in my "Mod" thread... I will see if I can dig it up for you....

Here you go...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...urb-ltz-mod-thread.100141/page-4#post-1204255

This post and the one below it should give you the information you need.

You don't have to use the pigtail extension, but to me it makes more sense than cutting up the trucks harness.

This isn't the one I bought but it is basically the same one...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323792964944

That and a 300ohm 5-7watt resistor and some wire, solder, and heat shrink and you should be good to go.

You could always try running it first and see if it is needed. In my case it was.

Ty!

So did the red spring give you a code/check engine light due to the higher pressure?

 

[kbuskill]

Ty!

So did the red spring give you a code/check engine light due to the higher pressure?

Honestly, it's been so long ago I can't remember which spring it was.

Whatever spring came in it is the one I used. I want to say that I still have a yellow? and white? spring laying around that came with it.

I used the Mellings 10355...
https://www.improvedracing.com/melling-10355-high-volume-ls-oil-pump.html

So, yeah, i think it was a 10% psi over spring but HV, which is supposed to be standard volume for AFM engines.

But to answer your question, yes it would set a code P0523 for oil pressure out of range or high range or something to that affect.

 

[Derick]

New wiper blades today....

..also my aluminum heater hose Ts came in today too. nice looking product from stealth. just need to get some heater hose from the local stop n rob oreillys and I'll get some screaming and cussing done whilst working on the coolant system sometime. hopefully we have a random warm day and I can get it done. I'm sure the clock is ticking on those plastic Ts.

 

[Just Fishing]

Picture of the shimming of the oil pump install.
I didn't think there was much movement on the bolts until i was actually shimming it.
Very tight tolerances!

Used two feeler gauge sets, got a few dupes thanks to my digital caliper and stacking the feeler gauges.

Top rusty one, I don't even recall where i got that set from.
might have been an estate sale, or one of my grandpas.
For that set, you can't see the numbers any longer, so I have to use the digital caliper set to see thickness.
And to top it off, it's riveted together!

I have no remorse taking scissors to it...

 

[gooffeyguy]

Damn, that really looks like a pain in the ass. Guess I'm just used to only having to drop the pan to change an oil pump, not removing the balancer, water pump, and front/timing cover

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Just Fishing]

Damn, that really looks like a pain in the ass. Guess I'm just used to only having to drop the pan to change an oil pump, not removing the balancer, water pump, and front/timing cover

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Most seem to say it's not required.
Melling instructions don't mention it as well.
I did read that some experienced bind in the pump after torqueing the pump down.
This was just an extra step to be sure there is enough clearance for the pump to function properly.

Honestly, it was not that difficult.
Most of the time spent was prep work.

One thing i learned while doing my first transmission rebuild (700r4).
Detail everything so you don't need to take it apart again.

 

[ls1frc]

I just put in the bolts, turn motor over, and torque. You can feel the pump bind a bit until its turned over, then it gets smooth.

 

[George B]

I have been tracking my charging voltage a bit. For the last few days it was acting like I am used to. Drove 2 hours in the interstate last night and voltage was right around 14. This morning I remote started and then noticed the charging voltage was up again. So, it seems related to when I remote start the truck. Just thought I would share.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have been tracking my charging voltage a bit. For the last few days it was acting like I am used to. Drove 2 hours in the interstate last night and voltage was right around 14. This morning I remote started and then noticed the charging voltage was up again. So, it seems related to when I remote start the truck. Just thought I would share.

how long are you monitoring it for? default is for it to charge high when you first start it up for a XX amount of time, then if you have the defroster or headlights, etc going then it will charge high also, the RVC is a finicky beast.

 

[ls1frc]

Rear wiper spray not spraying, but I can hear the motor. Any ideas?