What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

more commonly PIA is actually PITA (Pain In The A**)
@ least everywhere i've been.

To me PITA sounds like bread lol.

 

[1BADI5]

Well just found the correct (body size) injectors. OEM injectors, over night from FedEx was only an extra $30, done, sold, deal!!!!!!!!!!!

OEM LMG injectors - 38# / GM Part number 12613411
OEM injectors - 50# / GM Part number 12613412

https://www.lsxceleration.com/delph...DsOf8KqgZ2zJPtoY_rR4LzgzsPwBsDTRoCboYQAvD_BwE

 

[Idriveaho]

the tpms light is flashing? I don't think it's supposed to do that

I didn’t think so either. So left work start it up doing same thing. Front right shows 2 dashes. Let it run for a minute before I take off. I start hearing a horn go off like in Morse code. I’m thinking who the hell is doing that. Then I open my door and realize it’s me. Damn thing was going crazy with the horn. Turned it off and started up again, all is back to before the horn Tourette’s. Start driving out of the lot into road, blinking stopped and now just lit up. Get on interstate a few miles and now I’m reading tire pressure again.

Here is a pic. Earlier we were talking about voltage, the gauge has been reading 15 volts the whole 30 minute trip. I have a car charger that actually reads voltage. As of right now I’m sitting in it and it’s been shut off and it’s reading 12.1. I have a feeling maybe my battery is doing this. Just like yesterday I had 4wd issue that disappeared. I had it remote start so it’s warmed up a little before I go. Starting to piss me off.

 

[Doubeleive]

I didn’t think so either. So left work start it up doing same thing. Front right shows 2 dashes. Let it run for a minute before I take off. I start hearing a horn go off like in Morse code. I’m thinking who the hell is doing that. Then I open my door and realize it’s me. Damn thing was going crazy with the horn. Turned it off and started up again, all is back to before the horn Tourette’s. Start driving out of the lot into road, blinking stopped and now just lit up. Get on interstate a few miles and now I’m reading tire pressure again.

Here is a pic. Earlier we were talking about voltage, the gauge has been reading 15 volts the whole 30 minute trip. I have a car charger that actually reads voltage. As of right now I’m sitting in it and it’s been shut off and it’s reading 12.1. I have a feeling maybe my battery is doing this. Just like yesterday I had 4wd issue that disappeared. I had it remote start so it’s warmed up a little before I go. Starting to piss me off.

View attachment 265235

I would have the battery load tested and clean and check your battery cables & grounds, power fluctuations make these trucks do all kinds of weird shit.
i just went thru this with my Silverado, the alternator was sending 18v microamp spikes to the bcm and making the ignition reboot which made the radio, cluster, and a bunch of modules freak out I was getting all kinds of codes and communication problems.

 

[Idriveaho]

I would have the battery load tested and clean and check your battery cables & grounds, power fluctuations make these trucks do all kinds of weird shit.
i just went thru this with my Silverado, the alternator was sending 18v microamp spikes to the bcm and making the ignition reboot which made the radio, cluster, and a bunch of modules freak out I was getting all kinds of codes and communication problems.

I’m going to have to have it load tested the battery terminals look clean and tight. Also I went ahead and restarted it in the driveway and the tire light is no longer on...

 

[George B]

All over the office people have "WFH" on their white boards. It means "Work From Home" but I see "What the Fuck Happened"

 

[Rocket Man]

All over the office people have "WFH" on their white boards. It means "Work From Home" but I see "What the Fuck Happened"

 

[Rocket Man]

I would have the battery load tested and clean and check your battery cables & grounds, power fluctuations make these trucks do all kinds of weird shit.
i just went thru this with my Silverado, the alternator was sending 18v microamp spikes to the bcm and making the ignition reboot which made the radio, cluster, and a bunch of modules freak out I was getting all kinds of codes and communication problems.

Did you get that issue resolved?

 

[Doubeleive]

Did you get that issue resolved?

ya no more problem after they changed the alternator, it was under warranty so I only had to pay for the diagnostic time because I have a bunch of aftermarket stuff installed.
did you check for continuity on your rear window defroster? if you put a meter on tab to tab it should have continuity, if it doesn't that is why it is not working.

 

[Rocket Man]

ya no more problem after they changed the alternator, it was under warranty so I only had to pay for the diagnostic time because I have a bunch of aftermarket stuff installed.
did you check for continuity on your rear window defroster? if you put a meter on tab to tab it should have continuity, if it doesn't that is why it is not working.

Good call. I had checked for voltage at the grid with the switch turned on and had nothing. Both the tabs looked good, they aren’t falling off but the left one isn’t making contact with the grid, there’s zero continuity from that tab to the grid. I’ll either try soldering with silver solder since the tab is solid or buy a Frostfighter kit again.
Edit: I found a Frostfighter grid repair kit in my garage, saw it had a bit of the epoxy left over. So I cleaned up the area and masked off the area around the tab, then used the FF and went to pull off the masking tape and realized I shouldn’t have put tape over the pad itself, only on the glass. It took a big part of the pad but only in the middle, it still had contact areas. Anyway, I dug the last of the epoxy from the bottom of the bottle and painted it over the missing pad area. I hit it with a heat gun for a couple minutes. I’ll wait until tomorrow to see if I have continuity.

 

[RobsFreeland]

All jazzed to put cam in and start the rebuild. NNNNNNah.
Put crank back to tdc or number one cylinder. Pulled cam plate and cam. Worn where it rides on rollers but not bad for 200000. Like I can really tell. I’m a new guy, re- living my glory days.
Went to grab cam looked at cam card, didn’t look right. Looked up specs and order sheet , #@#$&& wrong cam. Got with supplier who slapped me and said don’t do that again, reordered the RIGHT parts. Thanks supplier. Should be here moment into. Lesson learned, check and double check.

 

[Just Fishing]

for fun, i took my old oil pump apart.
Noticed some grit in the bypass, and when putting it back together it was clear the bypass was stuck open slightly and fully closed when i put it back together...

 

[Just Fishing]

And i have my new lifters soaking in VR1, in the ultrasonic with the heat @ 120f.
Figure since i have the silly thing...

 

[Doubeleive]

Good call. I had checked for voltage at the grid with the switch turned on and had nothing. Both the tabs looked good, they aren’t falling off but the left one isn’t making contact with the grid, there’s zero continuity from that tab to the grid. I’ll either try soldering with silver solder since the tab is solid or buy a Frostfighter kit again.
Edit: I found a Frostfighter grid repair kit in my garage, saw it had a bit of the epoxy left over. So I cleaned up the area and masked off the area around the tab, then used the FF and went to pull off the masking tape and realized I shouldn’t have put tape over the pad itself, only on the glass. It took a big part of the pad but only in the middle, it still had contact areas. Anyway, I dug the last of the epoxy from the bottom of the bottle and painted it over the missing pad area. I hit it with a heat gun for a couple minutes. I’ll wait until tomorrow to see if I have continuity.

the rear defroster works like Christmas tree lights, sometimes the film cracks from age, much more common than a break somewhere else.

 

[Rocket Man]

the rear defroster works like Christmas tree lights, sometimes the film cracks from age, much more common than a break somewhere else.

I knew that, I actually repaired a few of the grid lines on this glass and on my other glass I had to reattach a tab with the FF. But looking at the tab it appeared solid with no sign of a broken connection. I swear when I checked for +12v I disconnected the wires and checked at the push on connectors tor st the wire but maybe I just checked at the tab IDK. Your idea worked easier though. And then I checked for +12v at the wire and it’s there, on the right side so that left side must be the ground. BTW I hate trying to fix Christmas lights- if they quit I just throw them away. Stupid bulbs where one burns out and the whole string goes down.

 

[Just Fishing]

so what's recommended for a roller cam break-in?
I was thinking standard Mobil 1 with maybe some zinc additive for good measure.

I have 10w30 VR1 racing oil on hand, but i think it's overkill for a roller...

 

[Tonyrodz]

so what's recommended for a roller cam break-in?
I was thinking standard Mobil 1 with maybe some zinc additive for good measure.

I have 10w30 VR1 racing oil on hand, but i think it's overkill for a roller...

I heard the VR1 is good for older pre roller motors. Bought it for my GN after I rebuilt the motor. Was gonna use it after 500 miles--but I never drove it. Supposedly has a higher level of zinc in it.

 

[Just Fishing]

I heard the VR1 is good for older pre roller motors. Bought it for my GN after I rebuilt the motor. Was gonna use it after 500 miles--but I never drove it. Supposedly has a higher level of zinc in it.

Yeah i use it in my C4 vette, flat tappet.
fantastic stuff, it's also a little expensive.

I had a open quart on my shelf, so i'm using it to pre lube stuff.

 

[George B]

I knew that, I actually repaired a few of the grid lines on this glass and on my other glass I had to reattach a tab with the FF. But looking at the tab it appeared solid with no sign of a broken connection. I swear when I checked for +12v I disconnected the wires and checked at the push on connectors tor st the wire but maybe I just checked at the tab IDK. Your idea worked easier though. And then I checked for +12v at the wire and it’s there, on the right side so that left side must be the ground. BTW I hate trying to fix Christmas lights- if they quit I just throw them away. Stupid bulbs where one burns out and the whole string goes down.

Is there a good ground at the other side? I get 14vdc at the tabs with the truck running and the defroster connected. You could check continuity to ground on that side.

 

[Rocket Man]

so what's recommended for a roller cam break-in?
I was thinking standard Mobil 1 with maybe some zinc additive for good measure.

I have 10w30 VR1 racing oil on hand, but i think it's overkill for a roller...

Nothing needed for a roller cam break in. Just whatever your normal oil is.