Installed the updated drivers side valve cover and new grommets and seal on the passenger side, that last coil bracket bolt on the passenger side can eat a bag of dicks
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Tried driving the Hoe last night. I had replaced the serpentine belt maybe a week ago. I bought the same belt that was on there, which was a little bigger then stock because the original size didn't fit, due to me getting a larger output alternator. The original sized belt wouldn't go on, it was too small after the new alternator. I'd, maybe the pulley was a different size. While driving it I got the "Hot Coolant Temp". Would a wrong sized belt cause it to overheat? Maybe due to the belt slipping? The belt also squealed a few times while accelerating--which its never done before? I was thinking of getting the original sized belt to see if it would fit this time.
Belt size shouldn't affect the temperature, check that the temp sensor harness under the alternator bracket didn't get jacked up
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
When I got home antifreeze was puking out of the overflow.
uh oh, check for a leak and if the coolant is low that would make it overheat
strutaeng
Full Access Member
Referring to my post #42,920: I got the O2 sensors, but I don't believe mine on the truck are bad. I'm pretty sure I've got an intermittent stickying lifters. Usually happens when driving on the freeway for a length of time, maybe 15-20 minutes. Usually by the time I get home it goes away.
It's more consistent now, however. Last week I popped the hood when I got home and my tick is definitely coming from the top of the engine, maybe in each bank. LTFT we're around 20 and 25%. Am I correct to assume the lean condition is related to this? Lifter(s) not allowing valves to fully open? Not sure in intake or exhaust? Not like that really matters.
How can I diagnose the lifters? I was going to do a compression test and also borrowed a leak-down test. I'm thinking maybe new cam, lifters and whatever needs work, possibly heads... hopefully I can make it to the Thanksgiving break because truck is school kid commuter.
Otherwise truck runs good. Good oil pressure.
BTW, my windshield washer reservoir has started leaking. I removed it and my battery tray is badly corroded, I'm guessing from the acid? Had to use bolt extractor and was forced to grind one off. What's the better paint sold to the general public for heavy corrosion? I've always used rust oleum, but never had to deal with heavy corrosion. I think my AAP has POR-15?
It's more consistent now, however. Last week I popped the hood when I got home and my tick is definitely coming from the top of the engine, maybe in each bank. LTFT we're around 20 and 25%. Am I correct to assume the lean condition is related to this? Lifter(s) not allowing valves to fully open? Not sure in intake or exhaust? Not like that really matters.
How can I diagnose the lifters? I was going to do a compression test and also borrowed a leak-down test. I'm thinking maybe new cam, lifters and whatever needs work, possibly heads... hopefully I can make it to the Thanksgiving break because truck is school kid commuter.
Otherwise truck runs good. Good oil pressure.
BTW, my windshield washer reservoir has started leaking. I removed it and my battery tray is badly corroded, I'm guessing from the acid? Had to use bolt extractor and was forced to grind one off. What's the better paint sold to the general public for heavy corrosion? I've always used rust oleum, but never had to deal with heavy corrosion. I think my AAP has POR-15?
Attachments
@strutaeng Your positive fuel trims are what's causing the lean code that lights the money light (CEL); positive trims means the PCM is adding fuel. Ideally the sum of each bank's LT and ST trims should be 5% or less. What are your short term trims after it warms up, and what is the sum of ST and LT on each bank?
For example, Bank 1 LT is 10% and ST is -6%: 10 + -6 = 4%. Or -6 + 10 = 4%.
If the LT trims are way higher than the ST trims, then you may want to have the LT trims reset with a capable scanner. It takes the LT tables a while to adjust to ST trims that are significantly different.
10% (total) isn't bad, but anything over that is something that should be investigated. Adding 20% fuel that isn't getting burned can burn up your cats if you have them.
If the trim on both banks is high I'd be looking for a crack or loose hose on the intake tube after the MAF or some kind of vacuum leak, something that affects both banks. Another less common cause is a leaky injector, which can be checked with an injector balance test.
For example, Bank 1 LT is 10% and ST is -6%: 10 + -6 = 4%. Or -6 + 10 = 4%.
If the LT trims are way higher than the ST trims, then you may want to have the LT trims reset with a capable scanner. It takes the LT tables a while to adjust to ST trims that are significantly different.
10% (total) isn't bad, but anything over that is something that should be investigated. Adding 20% fuel that isn't getting burned can burn up your cats if you have them.
If the trim on both banks is high I'd be looking for a crack or loose hose on the intake tube after the MAF or some kind of vacuum leak, something that affects both banks. Another less common cause is a leaky injector, which can be checked with an injector balance test.
clandr1
Full Access Member
What prompted you to change out the valve covers?
we bought this 05 3 years ago with 160k on it and now at 180k it has developed some above average oil consumption (about 2qt's every 5k) and both covers have been leaking.
I presume about 1/2 of that consumption is from the leaking and maybe from the older style pcv. It doesn't smoke a bit.
mattbta
Full Access Member
Received today. Didn't realize how bad the balancer looks and this WP is fairly new, but been off 3x due to head issues a couple years ago and previously had clutch fan.Ordered one of these because it was on sale. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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