What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Really bummed. A while back, I posted new wheels and discussed different center caps. May 18th, I ordered some sweet black bow ties. Almost two months to the day, they finally showed up today.... look really nice.... Went to put them in, and they do NOT fit as claimed.
Ignore the horribly dirty wheel...I park in the gravel and been getting lots of rain.

Anyway, the inner clip ring on this thing measures 83.5mm, and the wheels are 85.5mm.

So although they MIGHT stay in, they will flop around. Fail....

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Find a smooth but hard ball that rests on top of the prongs with the cap laid face-down. Lay it on a towel so you don't scratch the face. Heat up the prongs (preferably with a heat gun) and press the ball down to flex them outward then hold until they cool. You won't need to bend them out much, but you want to do it as evenly as possible.

If the prongs have a metal ring, remove it first and bend it to a wider diameter so it'll be tight to the prongs after you bend them.
 

Scottydoggs

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Getting sick of my drone at 2k. Talked to my exhaust guy and he wanted to take the easy route, and just use a GMT900 resonator...

So we did that.

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Just barely fits..

Drove off and knew immediately I didn’t like it. Cuts way too much sound and I’m looking for just limiting the drone at 2k.

Called him back and told him I want a helmholtz resonator as @iamdub has been talking about testing out. So this weekend (hopefully), we’re going to build a 25.2” helmholtz resonator and see how that works... @iamdub, does the 25.2” calculation work on a curved tube? I don’t have a lot of room to the side, so it’s going to be a curve, to a straight chamber, which will sit along side the cat-back portion of the factory exhaust. Not sure if I need to make the chamber 25.2”, or if that includes the curved portion of the resonator.

you could try a short glass pack. they are cheap enough and work like a res.
 

Sam Harris

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First off, I'm not so sure the placement of that resonator is ideal. A resonator targets and cancels specific frequencies. If your muffler "filters" out certain frequencies and passes others (what you'd hear at the tailpipe), then placing it after the muffler makes more sense, as it is in factory form. Those frequencies may not be present or as present before the muffler, so the resonator may not be operating as designed. Remember, it's just a Helmholtz chamber rolled back along itself. I just don't know how to determine it's target frequency. On the other hand, before or after the muffler may not matter since it could still be working. But, whatever frequencies it doesn't cancel (like all the ones you wanna still hear) are being muffled after the fact and that's why it's now too quiet. Just thinking out loud here.

For the tube, ideally you want it perpendicular to the exhaust pipe. But, if you must, keep the bends to a minimum. One 90° will be just fine and should be all you need at most. On mine, the stock Y-pipe merged together just in front of a cross member. Putting the tube parallel with the crossover pipe coming off the LH bank would be convenient for packaging and it'd connect just after where the two pipes became one. Now that I think of it, I think the Y-pipe of the NBS had two separate pipes further downstream before they merged. So, if there's no convenient place to put it perpendicular, then make it shaped like a "J" with the short leg of the "J" as short as possible (so the tube will be tight to the exhaust pipe). The wave will be slowed slightly by the bend, altering the tuning frequency. I don't think it'll be enough to make much of a difference. I don't know how many dBs per octave it's slope is, but I know it's fairly steep. Be as accurate as you can with your calculations and building it'll be plenty effective.

By the way, have you crunched the numbers to double-check my napkin math? I found this vid that explains the formula:

I forgot what temperature I used in my calcs, but you should measure yours to be accurate, anyway. Temperature plays a major role in the speed of sound and can make this a complete waste if you're off.

Also, for bonus points, download a free dB meter/sound analyzer app to do some before and after measurements so you'll have hard numbers to reference and post rather than just going by ear.
Wow man. There’s a lot of work involved. I figured we get the right length, and should be gtg. Dammit.

Good video by the way.
 
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