Went to the track

[R3cord303]

Did you ever run it at a drag strip Allen?

Have yet to. Trying to figure out where the nearest local track is and if they’re doing test&tune events ever because I really want to see what it will do. Really bad.

 

[swathdiver]

Have yet to. Trying to figure out where the nearest local track is and if they’re doing test&tune events ever because I really want to see what it will do. Really bad.

PIR and Woodburn right?

 

[R3cord303]

PIR and Woodburn right?

yeeeep. Woodburn’s website sucks and I don’t really wanna go all the way to Portland :/

 

[swathdiver]

yeeeep. Woodburn’s website sucks and I don’t really wanna go all the way to Portland :/

Go old school, pick up the phone and call! LOL

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Your %100 right which is why I'm trying my hardest to do some research before I buy stuff. I know a guy who just slaps all kinds of random stuff at his car and wonders why it doesnt run like he thought it should.

And I agree I really really thought it would be in the 15s the truck feels great so I was shocked when it wa so slow. But I did everything right. The only thing I can think is the trans is holding me back I've always thought the trans felt weird it got "tight" as the night went on even after I let it sit and cool down for 30 min. It just didnt want to move as quickly. The max temp was 185ish with my trans cooler.

I took it to two trans shops and they both said it's a perfectly fine running 6l80e thst they are just clunky in general in these types of trucks and the 2-3 odd shift is normal especially in the earlier years like mine. I had a friend who owns a 2010 tahoe drive it and he said it feels better than his trans. So I guess it's in my head.

You were leaving on stall... the TCM and ECM were adjusting to that flare before leaving.... If you get a looser converter it will help get the thing into the power band faster. But leave without getting up on stall... Just Idle 3rd light goes yellow, snap that throttle and it should eat alot better, you may find that the torque management may still be killing you... you can roll out to 60 ft with 3/4 throttle and probably find some time there. These trucks dont do too well on the track, but from a roll they are down right fun...

 

[JDopirak]

I thought mine would have been a little faster too. Some of the magazine reviews had the same or similar setup running the same or a little faster. In my case, I chalk that up to the All-Terrain tires sticking to the track like flypaper. My transmission temps rose as well as one might expect. At first I just shut the truck off but the temps were still similar to yours after 45-60 minutes. Next time around I idled the truck to bring the temps down and also commanded the fans to run on high which worked more quickly.

When your truck was tuned, did they also do the transmission? What Justin did for transmission performance is my favorite part of the tune.

Forgive me here if I'm preaching to the choir. When modifying any vehicle, it's vitally important to do a baseline series of runs in stock configuration and then do ONE modification at a time and test it. It's a great temptation to do more because of the time and cost involved in heading to the track or scheduling dyno time. This can be even more frustrating when their are problems at the track that limit runs or affect your ability to make consistent passes. But it must be done to identify the stuff that doesn't work.

When the Hoosier drag radials first came out, I had to have a pair. Picked up a set of spare wheels and mounted these new tires to them. The car felt great on launches, even snatching the left front tire off the ground. The ETs came down but because of the rollout of the tire, MPH was lost and therefore horsepower to the pavement. They were smaller and should have been the same, 5 inches of rollout difference from my skinnier tires. I left them on though for street racing and put a 9" converter in the car next. Again, the car felt great and got more air under that tire at launch but she went even slower! Dropped the transmission and put my old converter back in and the drag times were restored. I used that information to have my factory converter modified for just another 300 rpms of stall speed, not 500-800 like EVERYBODY else was suggesting. Then the new BFG Radial T/As came out (same tire as today) and I put those on in the same size I was using previously and went even faster. I could get a faster 60-foot with a 235-60-15 Radial T/A versus the Hoosier's 275-50-15!

I've never driven or raced my truck with the original tires on it, it has always had all-terrains since purchase. Reckon I should put a tape measure to the spare and compare that to the KO2s and see what the actual rollout on both are. The truck was tuned specifically for the OE tires.

I'm excited to see how your heads and camshaft will work, I would like to do those mods to mine someday too.

Oh, what fuel were you running? My runs were on E85. I think next time it will be on gasoline just to see the difference.

Sorry for way late response. The truck was acting funky lately, It was starting off in 2nd gear I pulled code P1751 and P0751 so it was doing it really bad one day and I dropped it off at local trans shop they said the "techm" is bad and needs replacing. They also want to check the check balls because apparently they tend to have issues in the earlier 6l80e trans. They quoted me at $1600 for the work. With a disclosure that it might not fix it, There might be internal damage already. Soooo I could waste $1600 for nothing. I looked up the part its $700 from dealer and $150 for gm to program it plus a tow bill. So even doing it my self I'm at like $950 with fluid and what not. But again might not fix it...... So I started calling around about a used trans $1800 with 89k , Soo I said screw it what's a rebuild. Called 4 local trans shops stock rebuild is $3200 avg. Called chevy dealer and jaspers both $3400 for Remanufactured trans.

I went one step further and stated I'll have ported 243 heads and a cam and when tuned I'll approx be making 350-370 at the wheels considering I make 268whp now. And once local shops heard that builds got bumped up to 4k-4400$. One last place I called was monster transmissions and they came in at $4400 using my trans with 4 week turn around but they had best warranty and well there a better known company.

Sooo I'm in the middle of figuring out what I want to do. I have Disney to save up for in January and xmas coming up sooooo yukon might only do short local trips and sit alot for awhile.....

 

[Doubeleive]

Sorry for way late response. The truck was acting funky lately, It was starting off in 2nd gear I pulled code P1751 and P0751 so it was doing it really bad one day and I dropped it off at local trans shop they said the "techm" is bad and needs replacing. They also want to check the check balls because apparently they tend to have issues in the earlier 6l80e trans. They quoted me at $1600 for the work. With a disclosure that it might not fix it, There might be internal damage already. Soooo I could waste $1600 for nothing. I looked up the part its $700 from dealer and $150 for gm to program it plus a tow bill. So even doing it my self I'm at like $950 with fluid and what not. But again might not fix it...... So I started calling around about a used trans $1800 with 89k , Soo I said screw it what's a rebuild. Called 4 local trans shops stock rebuild is $3200 avg. Called chevy dealer and jaspers both $3400 for Remanufactured trans.

I went one step further and stated I'll have ported 243 heads and a cam and when tuned I'll approx be making 350-370 at the wheels considering I make 268whp now. And once local shops heard that builds got bumped up to 4k-4400$. One last place I called was monster transmissions and they came in at $4400 using my trans with 4 week turn around but they had best warranty and well there a better known company.

Sooo I'm in the middle of figuring out what I want to do. I have Disney to save up for in January and xmas coming up sooooo yukon might only do short local trips and sit alot for awhile.....

powertrain products sells one and there is a option for a no-fault warranty, covers parts & labor -nationwide, just food for thought.

 

[swathdiver]

Sorry for way late response. The truck was acting funky lately, It was starting off in 2nd gear I pulled code P1751 and P0751 so it was doing it really bad one day and I dropped it off at local trans shop they said the "techm" is bad and needs replacing. They also want to check the check balls because apparently they tend to have issues in the earlier 6l80e trans. They quoted me at $1600 for the work. With a disclosure that it might not fix it, There might be internal damage already. Soooo I could waste $1600 for nothing. I looked up the part its $700 from dealer and $150 for gm to program it plus a tow bill. So even doing it my self I'm at like $950 with fluid and what not. But again might not fix it...... So I started calling around about a used trans $1800 with 89k , Soo I said screw it what's a rebuild. Called 4 local trans shops stock rebuild is $3200 avg. Called chevy dealer and jaspers both $3400 for Remanufactured trans.

I went one step further and stated I'll have ported 243 heads and a cam and when tuned I'll approx be making 350-370 at the wheels considering I make 268whp now. And once local shops heard that builds got bumped up to 4k-4400$. One last place I called was monster transmissions and they came in at $4400 using my trans with 4 week turn around but they had best warranty and well there a better known company.

Sooo I'm in the middle of figuring out what I want to do. I have Disney to save up for in January and xmas coming up sooooo yukon might only do short local trips and sit alot for awhile.....

The GM remans are warranted across the nation for 3 years 36K I think. Since you're a wrench turner and want to make some power, why not rebuild it yourself? You can grab a manual or two off Amazon and build it up the way you want. The TECHMs can be rebuilt, for less than $50, check out Sonnax's website.

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3754-pressure-switch-rebuild-master-pack

A Tech-2 can run tests on the transmission and attempt to clean/unjam that stuck valve. Course, if something is broken you'll have to get into the lower valve body to replace that part or the lower control valve body.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/109323255...olid=3MYY1OQK1UL4M&psc=1&ref_=lv_vv_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MABQLX...olid=3MYY1OQK1UL4M&psc=1&ref_=lv_vv_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/Adapt-Case-T...ords=6l80+tool&qid=1570158100&s=books&sr=8-12

 

[JDopirak]

The GM remans are warranted across the nation for 3 years 36K I think. Since you're a wrench turner and want to make some power, why not rebuild it yourself? You can grab a manual or two off Amazon and build it up the way you want. The TECHMs can be rebuilt, for less than $50, check out Sonnax's website.

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3754-pressure-switch-rebuild-master-pack

A Tech-2 can run tests on the transmission and attempt to clean/unjam that stuck valve. Course, if something is broken you'll have to get into the lower valve body to replace that part or the lower control valve body.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/109323255...olid=3MYY1OQK1UL4M&psc=1&ref_=lv_vv_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MABQLX...olid=3MYY1OQK1UL4M&psc=1&ref_=lv_vv_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/Adapt-Case-T...ords=6l80+tool&qid=1570158100&s=books&sr=8-12

So i took your advice and after watching ALOT of videos i pulled the valve body my self, Purchased the Techm rebuild kit,Valve body spacer plate,new check balls and all the gaskets. What i ended up finding is that 3 out of 4 of the shift solenoid diaphragms where broken/damaged and the number 2?? check ball had shrunk from .250 to .243 all the others measured at .249 but i replaced them too while i was there. I printed out all the installation instructions tq, specs and what not from my second job using alldata and put it all back together. I have around 150 miles on it since i did all of this and it seems to have fixed my issue with it wanting to take off in second gear, It does not clunk/slam into 2-1 coming to a stop anymore other than that it does not feel any different as far as the shifts.

I have $100 total into this fix all parts and fluids included. Im not going to lie i was super super nervous doing this. I have a few buddys that where calling me crazy for messing with that valve body and what not but i figured it was spend $100 and it fixes it and i save $3400" For now. It does have 113k and im about to toss around another 100hp at it in the next month or so, Well see how long it last after that" or i spend $100 and it does not fix it but at least i tried.

Small update on build. I sent my 243 heads out to Texas Speed to be cnc ported they had a sale for $100 off and free shipping back so i jumped on that. I decided to buy all new rockers with trunion upgrades already installed from Michigan motorsports. I also kinda jumped the gun and ordered 7.400 hardned pushrods from Texas Speed i have friends who can use them if they end up not working with my motor. All i have left is order a new oil pump pick up, Intake gaskets and a moroso oil catch can.

I decided against a stall as my wife is currently pregnant and will be staying home once the baby is born for year and she has made it clear she wants to have the Yukon once she is a stay at home mother due to the fact it gets horrible mpg and i have a 60 mile round trip to work daily. " I have a 2011 Forester 5 speeed i should be dailying, But its so much easier to just get in the Yukon and put it in drive especially with all the traffic. Plus remote start, heated seats and all that good stuff. I got a little spoiled with the Yukon which makes if hard to drive my base model manual Forester anymore haha"

 

[swathdiver]

So i took your advice and after watching ALOT of videos i pulled the valve body my self, Purchased the Techm rebuild kit,Valve body spacer plate,new check balls and all the gaskets. What i ended up finding is that 3 out of 4 of the shift solenoid diaphragms where broken/damaged and the number 2?? check ball had shrunk from .250 to .243 all the others measured at .249 but i replaced them too while i was there. I printed out all the installation instructions tq, specs and what not from my second job using alldata and put it all back together. I have around 150 miles on it since i did all of this and it seems to have fixed my issue with it wanting to take off in second gear, It does not clunk/slam into 2-1 coming to a stop anymore other than that it does not feel any different as far as the shifts.

I have $100 total into this fix all parts and fluids included. Im not going to lie i was super super nervous doing this. I have a few buddys that where calling me crazy for messing with that valve body and what not but i figured it was spend $100 and it fixes it and i save $3400" For now. It does have 113k and im about to toss around another 100hp at it in the next month or so, Well see how long it last after that" or i spend $100 and it does not fix it but at least i tried.

Small update on build. I sent my 243 heads out to Texas Speed to be cnc ported they had a sale for $100 off and free shipping back so i jumped on that. I decided to buy all new rockers with trunion upgrades already installed from Michigan motorsports. I also kinda jumped the gun and ordered 7.400 hardned pushrods from Texas Speed i have friends who can use them if they end up not working with my motor. All i have left is order a new oil pump pick up, Intake gaskets and a moroso oil catch can.

I decided against a stall as my wife is currently pregnant and will be staying home once the baby is born for year and she has made it clear she wants to have the Yukon once she is a stay at home mother due to the fact it gets horrible mpg and i have a 60 mile round trip to work daily. " I have a 2011 Forester 5 speeed i should be dailying, But its so much easier to just get in the Yukon and put it in drive especially with all the traffic. Plus remote start, heated seats and all that good stuff. I got a little spoiled with the Yukon which makes if hard to drive my base model manual Forester anymore haha"

Glad to hear that you tackled and solved the problem Joe! Congrats on the bun in the oven too! As for the Yukon, get rid of the Forester and get another Yukon! They are made for commuting! Sure, they do not get 30 mpg but they are far more comfortable and FAR more safe to drive. That alone is worth the additional fuel expense in my house and has been for thirty years. We have all been seriously injured in car accidents from driving small cars to "save money on gas", never again.