Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[rdezs]

A 1/2" drive, flex head ratchet with an 18-inch handle works on all the O2 sensors. (Along with any O2 socket kit that comes with the Crowfoot as well)

Once they break loose, they usually unscrew easily. If they don't unscrew by hand at this point, run the thread chaser in that comes in the socket kit.

 

[Doubeleive]

Wes, I noticed some of your posts about some of the challenges on the AWD drivers side. Any additional thoughts on that one?

yes, hence the need for a tilt head ratchet, that resolves the drivers side bank 1 issue. there is little to no room to stick a regular ratchet or even a open end wrench up in there.

 

[Doubeleive]

reminds me I need to do the ones on the wife's k2 they have been sitting here for 3 weeks already....

 

[rdezs]

I might add that on the driver side upstream O2 sensor, a 1/2" drive swivel and one extension works really well. You can sort of brace the head of the ratchet against the exhaust pipe for stability and get full torque on it with the swivel at the top of the socket

 

[adventurenali92]

I did my drivers side lower sensor a couple months back on my 06 AWD, and it was simple. A flexible ratchet and socket like they said above and it came out easily. The loom and wire cover on mine sagged down for some reason enough to let the driveshaft rub the loom off and then starting rubbing through the wire insulation and cover it in oil from my oil leak. I didn’t wanna cut and resplice wires so I opted to replace and make sure it couldn’t drop down again so I zip tied the harness and loom up to its mount with enough slack to keep it plugged in and not tug on it. Glad I did that cuz that was easier than wiring… haven’t done the upper ones yet though.

 

[bobby2175]

Hey everyone, going to tackle the O2 sensors this weekend. Do you all know the torque spec on these?

 

[Fless]

Hey everyone, going to tackle the O2 sensors this weekend. Do you all know the torque spec on these?

Find them at the link below, but verify your specific vehicle:

System Specifications — 2010 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD V8-6.2L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2010 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD V8-6.2L.

charm.li

 

[bobby2175]

Find them at the link below, but verify your specific vehicle:

System Specifications — 2010 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD V8-6.2L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2010 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD V8-6.2L.

charm.li

Thank you, @Fless. Did not know this existed. Very helpful!

 

[bobby2175]

Thanks for all of the help once again, guys! Got all of them done! Started with the lower driver's side and was able to break that free no problem with the ratchet. Then went to the passenger side lower and I couldn't get it. I had purchased one of those O2 sensor removal tools a little while back that can be used with an air hammer and I couldn't get it with that either. It was pretty jammed up from a lot of midwest winters over the years. I then used the socket that came with the air hammer set and used a hammer on the "ears" it has and it finally broke free. Decided to keep using the air hammer tool on the last two including the driver's side upper and they came right off.

Moving onto the ride height sensor that I've been putting off for a long time.

Haven't been driving the truck much lately but going to take it for another family trip at the end of the year. It's at 202K miles now.

When I was under the the truck this weekend, it's leaking a lot of everything. I'm going to clean it up and see where the leaks are coming from. Gonna be coming back here for your thoughts.

 

[bobby2175]

Ok, I'm going to trickle in a couple of posts now on leaks that I'm finding. Here's the first one. Before/after cleaning the area/after it's sat a couple of days.

Any thoughts on how to deal with it? I don't even know what I'm looking at there.

 

[mikez71]

I have a leak as well.. Looks like yours.
Hoping its the oilpan and not rear seal..

 

[kbuskill]

I have a leak as well.. Looks like yours.
Hoping its the oilpan and not rear seal..

Could be either or it could be oil filter leaking and blowing back or oil cooler lines/block off plate leaking and blowing back.

 

[bobby2175]

Could be either or it could be oil filter leaking and blowing back or oil cooler lines/block off plate leaking and blowing back.

I haven't driven it since I cleaned it up. It's just sitting on ramps in my garage. The oil is literally coming from that circled area. Is that some kind of seal that can be tightened?

 

[kbuskill]

I haven't driven it since I cleaned it up. It's just sitting on ramps in my garage. The oil is literally coming from that circled area. Is that some kind of seal that can be tightened?

No, it is just an inspection plug.

You can pop it out with your pocket knife or a small screwdriver and look up into the bellhousing with a flash light or inspection camera if you have one.

You won't be able to see a ton as it isn't like the older transmissions where you could remove the bottom half of the bellhousing to access the torque converter bolts, but it is better than nothing I suppose.

I just recently had to do the rear main seal on my '08 Burb at 332k miles.

 

[bobby2175]

No, it is just an inspection plug.

You can pop it out with your pocket knife or a small screwdriver and look up into the bellhousing with a flash light or inspection camera if you have one.

You won't be able to see a ton as it isn't like the older transmissions where you could remove the bottom half of the bellhousing to access the torque converter bolts, but it is better than nothing I suppose.

I just recently had to do the rear main seal on my '08 Burb at 332k miles.

Ok! Thanks so much for responding. Let me take a closer look to see if I can find the source.

 

[B-train]

Ok, I'm going to trickle in a couple of posts now on leaks that I'm finding. Here's the first one. Before/after cleaning the area/after it's sat a couple of days.

Any thoughts on how to deal with it? I don't even know what I'm looking at there.

View attachment 474070View attachment 474069View attachment 474072View attachment 474073

That is oil coming from the rear engine cover gasket that also holds the rest main seal. I had identical looking oil on my 2008 and finally decided to order a new GM cover. You have to remove the transmission to do it. The cover seal gets flat and hard, then starts to weep. The rear main seal is usually not the culprit. The cover seals off the main oil galleys, so is subject to lots of pressue and flow.

If you aren't equipped to remove the transfer case and transmission, then I'd get a quote from a reputable shop. Or just park on cardboard and top off oil as needed. I think mine leaked about 1/2 - 1 quart over 5k towards the end before I bit the bullet and did it at my dad's shop.

 

[solli5pack]

It's either the rear main, oil pan, oil pan block off plate or the vlom leaking down the back of the engine. All very common leaks and all seem too collect oil where the engine and trans meet so it's tricky trying to determine whats leaking. Best to be prepared to deal with them all. Here's how I dealt with my rear main. I feel like as these trucks age you'll always be chasing an oil leak somewhere.

Rear Main

What's up everyone. I'm finally going to deal with the leaking rear main seal on my 10 Burb. Quotes around me are like $2500 for the job so I'm going to do it in my driveway. Not something I wanted to diy but the budget is forcing me. Maybe I can use the money I save for a new driveway since...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Doubeleive]

That little metal cover comes off then you can use a "telescoping tilt mirror" sold at almost any autoparts store for like $5
use the little mirror and a flashlight, then you can see up in the blind spot at the rear center of the engine, if there is oil coming out there then you know the source
if it is all dry inside everywhere then that is not it.

 

[bobby2175]

Some of the leaking is definitely coming from here. Do these look like major issues or I can limp by for now?

One other thing I've noticed is that I keep having to top off the coolant. I don't notice anything on the ground or see any active leak anywhere. Changed my oil recently but didn't notice anything there. the truck has not been driven much this year. Maybe 1000 miles tops so I'm noticing all of this as it's just parked in my garage.

You'll remember that a couple of years ago, I changed out all of the heater hoses, radiator, water pump, Ts at the firewall, etc and all of that seemed to go pretty well.

One mistake I've noticed is that I used worm clamps on all of the hoses and that was just dumb because they are not staying tight and some leaking was definitely because of this. I tightened them up but still have a little drop in level. What clamps would you recommend?

 

[rdezs]

That little metal cover comes off then you can use a "telescoping tilt mirror" sold at almost any autoparts store for like $5
use the little mirror and a flashlight, then you can see up in the blind spot at the rear center of the engine, if there is oil coming out there then you know the source
if it is all dry inside everywhere then that is not it.

On mine it turned out to be the rear main seal.