Want To Buy but Question About Mileage

[kbuskill]

Hey Jim, Per your own words, "I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles". My advise is to not change now. No SUV is worth investing 20k of your hard earned money in that has 100k on it already.

If you want a vehicle that will nickle and dime you to death, then spend your money. I wanted to do the same thing when I was looking for a truck, but I thought about it and decided to look for a two or three year old truck with under 30k, and if you look hard enough, you will find one.

I purchased my truck as a certified pre-owned vehicle with only 17k on it, and man am I glad I did.
It came with a 100k drive-train warranty, and an additional bumper to bumper warranty to 100k or 6 years from the original in service date.

You're 56 yrs old, and don't change now and start buying someone else problems. No matter what others say, high miles equals high miles and a lot of unexpected repair bills that at the end of your use for the truck, will equal paying for a newer truck with a factory warranty.

By yourself a newer two or even three year old (only certified pre-owned) truck, and just look online at places like cars.com for a truck. I had to travel 250 miles to a dealer to pick up my truck, but it was two years old with only 17k on it. They are out there, you don't have to settle for an older truck and pay grand theft money for a wore out vehicle that still looks good.

Take it from a 60 year old man, My 2015 GMC Yukon (purchased it in 2017) was a much better buy in the long run, than a 2010 piece of crap that a dealer detailed and made it look good as new. There is a reason you have never purchased a 100k mile vehicle, and there really is no real reason to start now.

Last point, why would any man in his right mind, spend 20k on a truck with 100k miles on it, and then be told by the dealer that it is being sold as is and shown? There's a reason the dealer wont warranty the truck, because he knows it will be nothing but a money draining pit. So don't let the dealer be smarter than you are, you are the one with the money to spend, spend it wisely or put it back in the bank,

OLD WORE OUT TRUCKS THAT LOOK GOOD AS AS GOOD AS A OLD WOMAN THAT STILL LOOKS GOOD, IF YOU WANT HER OR THE TRUCK TO KEEP OPERATING, THEY WILL BOTH COST YOU LOTS OF HARD EARNED MONEY! And you can take that fact to the bank.

Just curious what your 2 yr old 17k mile truck cost since there was no mention of it in your post???

New/slightly used = DEFINITE money up front with eventual money for maintenance if you keep it long enough.

OR

Higher mileage used = POSSIBLE/EVENTUAL money down the road.

... you pay to play either way.

I'd rather have an older woman that knows what she is doing than to have to train a young one.... lol

 

[bgbear]

Hey folks, newb here. I've been wanting to buy a Tahoe but everything in my $20k or less price range all have well over 100k miles. Even higher price points have high miles.

My questions are -
1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time?

2) at what point mileage wise do parts start needing replaced?

3) am I ok buying one with high miles?

I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles. I know things are different these days. I've had two Grand Cherokees and a Trailblazer with over 150k miles but at that point come the $1,500 repairs.

Thanks
Jim

Apparently, they’re seeing the USA in their Chevrolet if you’re old enough to know where tha came from. I wonder about that too. My 96 Seville just turned over 88k and my 65 Corvette has 26k, but the Tahoe has a whopping 99! I have a friend that thinks 100k is low mileage! Change the oil and filters, get routine mantenance, should last 3 times that long. Use the good stuff, like Mobil1, and really good filters. If you tow, stay ahead of trans fluid changes. I’ve been looking into waterless coolant right now.

 

[kbuskill]

Apparently, they’re seeing the USA in their Chevrolet if you’re old enough to know where tha came from. I wonder about that too. My 96 Seville just turned over 88k and my 65 Corvette has 26k, but the Tahoe has a whopping 99! I have a friend that thinks 100k is low mileage! Change the oil and filters, get routine mantenance, should last 3 times that long. Use the good stuff, like Mobil1, and really good filters. If you tow, stay ahead of trans fluid changes. I’ve been looking into waterless coolant right now.

That's the thing right there...

You always hear the saying "they just don't make them liked they used to" and that is a very true statement.

They certainly don't have the style and cool factor of the cars from the 40's, 50's, 60's and the sheet metal certainly isn't as thick and heavy duty as they were back then.

BUT...

100k miles on one of those old cars and it was pretty well worn out. Today's vehicles don't even require a tune up/spark plug change for 100k miles. Technology has come a long ways from the old days, some for the better... some not... but I wouldn't be nearly as afraid to buy a GMT900 with 100k+ miles as I would be to buy a 60's or 70's era vehicle with the same mileage.

Just remember that maintenance goes a Looooong way in the over all condition of any vehicle.

 

[usnret]

Got my 2011 Tahoe with 125K and now have 170K. No problems at all, just do regular maintenance. Use it for towing and trips where the car won't hold a purchase. Live in the boondocks where the nearest grocery store is 20 miles away. Condition and maintenance count, not mileage. Would still have my 06 Tahoe with 240K if a tree hadn't fallen on it in a storm.

 

[KATfishing]

Just curious what your 2 yr old 17k mile truck cost since there was no mention of it in your post???

Completely agree. I drive an '08 Denali fully loaded that just turned 137K. 3 years ago, I paid $24K for it at 84K miles and that included an after market warranty, which recently expired, but it covered almost everything but wear parts for 48K miles or 4 years. It's driving great and I used the warranty to address issues that came up getting me through the common 100 - 120K stuff. A newer, certified Denali at the time with maybe 25K fewer miles was in an entirely different league... WAY out of my price range. Research the vehicle (carfax and service records) and have it mechanically checked by a professional if not buying it from a dealer. Unlike others who find great private sales, I pay a bit more and buy from a reputable dealership that sells AND services preowned vehicles, inspecting and addressing any issues before it's put on their lot. I am surprised that someone on this forum would insist that at 56 years old you shouldn't buy a high mileage vehicle with the assumption that you are inheriting someone else's problems. Actually, people that can afford these vehicles new, often can afford to let them go and keep buying new. That's not me. I prefer to buy their leftovers. These vehicles can easily go over 200K with proper maintenance. I've actually heard of mind boggling miles in the 300K+ range.

 

[KatGV]

Hey folks, newb here. I've been wanting to buy a Tahoe but everything in my $20k or less price range all have well over 100k miles. Even higher price points have high miles.

My questions are -
1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time?

2) at what point mileage wise do parts start needing replaced?

3) am I ok buying one with high miles?

I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles. I know things are different these days. I've had two Grand Cherokees and a Trailblazer with over 150k miles but at that point come the $1,500 repairs.

Thanks
Jim

Purchased my 05 Tahoe new , have always had it serviced at the dealer . Had every little thing fixed through warranty when possible (my husband works at a dealer) didn't have any major issues . At 208K engine was getting worn some noise etc so we elected to replace. at 245K trans gave out and we replaced and just recently at 270K transfer case gave out and we replaced. We did these things because buying a NEW Tahoe these days are way out of our budget and the 05 still looks fairly new inside and besides a few small dents outside looks good. So NOW I basically have a new 05 since all these major replacements have been done( (less the rear end and drive shaft). It's really the luck of the draw weather the old owner took care of the vehicle or not and also if the vehicle was put together on Friday and workers wanted to go home. But if you can save for the time when these issues eventually come up you should be fine. This may or may not help your decision but just my 2 cents. K

 

[Meccanoble]

Miles dont scare me, its just important to know what was recently replaced so you dont have to. Ofcourse a good test drive is critical to make sure no crazy noises are present. But if a car drove right,s ounded good, history on point and common expensive items were recently replaced (suspension, fluids mainly), it not only gives you confidence in what you dont have to worry about anytime soon but gives you an idea of how the previous owner treated the car. You cant tell if a car was raced or abused by just driving it but you can tell they loved their car by the maintenance that was done, especially recently.

 

[iamdub]

...you don't have to settle for an older truck and pay grand theft money for a wore out vehicle that still looks good.

100K-150K on a GMT800 or '900 should not mean "wore out". If it is, then there's no doubt it was abused and, of course, should be avoided.

Take it from a 60 year old man, My 2015 GMC Yukon (purchased it in 2017) was a much better buy in the long run, than a 2010 piece of crap that a dealer detailed and made it look good as new.

Yes, some dealers do sketchy stuff to polish turds, but you can't generalize ALL older vehicles because of this. Especially when so many are buying these pretty 60K-, 70k-, 80K-dollar K2xx models cuz they want the newer stuff yet they're having to watch their transmissions, A/C condensers, trim pieces, electronics, etc. like a hawk to spot the first sign of a possible failure because they know there's a considerable chance one or more of these systems can flake at any time and they wanna catch it before their warranty is out. They also feel obligated to buy the extended warranty because they know they are at risk of a failure(s) rather than feeling confident that they spent big bucks to AVOID having such failures.

There is a reason you have never purchased a 100k mile vehicle, and there really is no real reason to start now.

I can think of quite a few reasons, the most prominent and directly relevant being that 100K miles on a modern vehicle is nothing like 100K on one 30-40+ years ago.

Last point, why would any man in his right mind, spend 20k on a truck with 100k miles on it, and then be told by the dealer that it is being sold as is and shown? There's a reason the dealer wont warranty the truck, because he knows it will be nothing but a money draining pit.

All used vehicles are sold "as-is and as-shown". However much the buyer pays (in the cost of the car, any additional warranties, etc.) is what determines how much the dealer will assist with issues. Hell, so many dealers do what they can to avoid upholding what they actually ARE responsible for.

I don't intend for this to come across as a one-sided slam against buying anything newer. But I felt some truths were stretched and some negatives were exaggerated.

Now, my view on newer versus older when it comes to "buying someone else's wore-out problem" is that the older ones and their issues are pretty much established and well-known and sound solutions have been determined. For the most part, the issues are easier to diagnose and cheaper to repair.

 

[thompsoj22]

Hey Jim, Per your own words, "I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles". My advise is to not change now. No SUV is worth investing 20k of your hard earned money in that has 100k on it already.

If you want a vehicle that will nickle and dime you to death, then spend your money. I wanted to do the same thing when I was looking for a truck, but I thought about it and decided to look for a two or three year old truck with under 30k, and if you look hard enough, you will find one.

I purchased my truck as a certified pre-owned vehicle with only 17k on it, and man am I glad I did.
It came with a 100k drive-train warranty, and an additional bumper to bumper warranty to 100k or 6 years from the original in service date.

You're 56 yrs old, and don't change now and start buying someone else problems. No matter what others say, high miles equals high miles and a lot of unexpected repair bills that at the end of your use for the truck, will equal paying for a newer truck with a factory warranty.

By yourself a newer two or even three year old (only certified pre-owned) truck, and just look online at places like cars.com for a truck. I had to travel 250 miles to a dealer to pick up my truck, but it was two years old with only 17k on it. They are out there, you don't have to settle for an older truck and pay grand theft money for a wore out vehicle that still looks good.

Take it from a 60 year old man, My 2015 GMC Yukon (purchased it in 2017) was a much better buy in the long run, than a 2010 piece of crap that a dealer detailed and made it look good as new. There is a reason you have never purchased a 100k mile vehicle, and there really is no real reason to start now.

Last point, why would any man in his right mind, spend 20k on a truck with 100k miles on it, and then be told by the dealer that it is being sold as is and shown? There's a reason the dealer wont warranty the truck, because he knows it will be nothing but a money draining pit. So don't let the dealer be smarter than you are, you are the one with the money to spend, spend it wisely or put it back in the bank,

OLD WORE OUT TRUCKS THAT LOOK GOOD AS AS GOOD AS A OLD WOMAN THAT STILL LOOKS GOOD, IF YOU WANT HER OR THE TRUCK TO KEEP OPERATING, THEY WILL BOTH COST YOU LOTS OF HARD EARNED MONEY! And you can take that fact to the bank.

Geeze, i was going to call BS on this post until the last paragraph! How can argue with reality? LOL!!!!!

 

[thompsoj22]

However, After really looking hard i found a 08 yukon denali xl1500 awd with 125k miles at a dealer listed for $18,250!. Thats alot of money given the age and miles, But the car had been exclusively maintained by a dealer that documented everything. The car was commuted over 200 miles per day on ca freeways. It had two documented requests by the owner to inspect charging system which undoubtedly was relevant to RVC. Long story short, a battery current module some grounding and alternator and it is fixed. The one owner traded the denali and a cherokee in on a rangerover, ie" people with money to burn". he put thousands into the denali maintaining it, all drivetrain flushes, brakes/rotors, door lock actuators and on and on. We ended up out the door at $15k financed.We love this vehicle and are grateful that someone else could afford to buy a $52k vehicle, dump thousands into it as prescribed by maintanance and than pass it on to me for $15k. New vehicle car payments are SCARY, $700 to $1000+ per month and to much tech advances for me. Get a good used one!

 

[davidzog]

I've wanted an Escalade forever, but they all run well over 100-150,000 miles for what I can afford. I found an 07 that had an original sticker of $64,000 with 96,000 miles and bought it, but I know I paid too dammm much ($16,000). The vehicle is tight and smooth and quiet and nice. After two week the suspension failed so I replaced it all with non-air shocks and KYB front struts....about $500. I changed all the fluids and hoses, and have had zero trouble since.

Last week I bought an 07 Yukon with 172,000 miles and a ticking engine (got it from my boss)...yep, AFM crap! But, for $1,000, I could not turn it down - he was going to junk it. It runs ok, actually, though it ticks on the left bank. After about 30 miles, the oil pressure drops to zero....shut if off and immediately restart it, and the oil pressure jumps back up to 35 pounds. I ordered an AFM delete kit with cam and oil pump from AMS racing for $665. Hopefully, that's all it needs to get it going. But it is a $9,000 truck if it runs good. Again, the rest of the truck is tight and the interior is like new. No rust, no dings, just a nice vehicle. I figure I'll wind up putting less than $3,000 into it and have a great vehicle....when looking for an Escalade, I've seen many of these trucks with over 300,000 miles and still running strong.

Funny thing....my wife absolutely hates the Escalade, but she can't wait for me to get the Yukon going so we can get rid of the Toyota mini van...it has 140,000 and runs like new!!! I keep telling her that they are THE SAME TRUCK!!!!

I was at the Chevrolet dealer a few weeks ago picking up some parts....dropped into the showroom and they had a Suburban for over $90,000 and a lifted decked out Silverado dually for over $105,000 (with a lot of aftermarket options: wheels, tires, lift kit, bumpers, etc.). Drive it off the lot and it's only worth $75,000. How crazy has the world become?!?!?!?!?

 

[iamdub]

...I found an 07 that had an original sticker of $64,000 with 96,000 miles and bought it, but I know I paid too dammm much ($16,000).

Location is a factor in car values and I don't know where you live, but off the top of my head I don't think you paid too much at all for your Escalade. I got my '08 Tahoe LTZ with 142K miles for $15,250, and that was a pretty decent deal compared to everything else in my area at the time.

 

[Wolfbraid]

...

Funny thing....my wife absolutely hates the Escalade, but she can't wait for me to get the Yukon going so we can get rid of the Toyota mini van...it has 140,000 and runs like new!!! I keep telling her that they are THE SAME TRUCK!!!!..

Yes my wife is kinda the same, we had a 95 Tahoe, and now a 07 Yukon XL I didn't think there was a big size difference til a 90's Tahoe parked next to us.
The yukon hood seems about 6-8inches higher(of course it's longer too) I'm going to outfit the yukon with either a bird view 360 cam setup or some good lane change cams.

We do miss our Sienna Minivan though, can't beat the gas mileage plus roominess.

 

[davidzog]

AHHHHHHHH....we also have a 2006 Sienna limited that we bought used last February with 124,000. I replaced the struts, timing belt, water pump rear shocks, changed all the fluids and belts and hoses. I think it is the ugliest vehicle on the road, but I would not trade or sell it. It hauls more than my last pickup since it's taller than a pickup bed. We drive the he!! out of it....every weekend we go to the lake....3 hours each way. At 139,500 I did replace the intermediate steering shaft (warn u-joints).

It is comfortable, quiet, dependable and solid...just ugly. I read where a cab company in California only used Siennas, and many have over 300,000 with the original engine and transmission. The only real drawback is that many things are very difficult to replace....timing belt took a day and a half, and I'm a pretty competent mechanic.

Anyway, not trying to steal this thread...just that I keep the Sienna in case the Escalade craps out....hahaha

 

[Awfiretto]

Same exact situation about 5 months ago!


Wanted a Tahoe... so did my best to work it in our budget of 18k ish.


I knew any used vehicle was going to need some “TLC” to get it where I wanted it. No matter what dealer, no one would care about the small stuff like the truck owner does.


Found a 07 LT (lll) 4WD - 104k miles for $13,500. Talked them to $13k +$800 for the sales tax TX (no income tax yal.. pay to play)


Considering all other Tahoe’s were 125k plus for $18k + for any LT or up, I decided to take the DIY fix er up and as long as I didn’t exceed my budget I made out.


I’ve done the following “maintenance” to it:

- Spark Plugs and wires - $160

- Motor mounts L/R $850 (parts + labor)

- Serpentine Belt $100

- power seat passenger slider (***** yard diy) $280

- rear window switch (junk yard) $30

- tire balance $60

- ALL fluids (coolant/trans/diff/transfer case/oil) $500ish

- AC coolant charge $85

- BCM $600

- Battery $114

- AC blower motor/resistor (from leaking water) $85 / $35

- Chased leaking water to cowl and door sills - time frustrations and $10 in silicone

-door lock actuator passenger front $45 (only because I wanted the light and door open close switch to work)


And the following “improvements”

-iSimple Bluetooth module $85

-windshield and rear windows ceramic tint $500 (worth it in TX)

-HIDs low beam and Fogs $80 and 2 hours

-All LED bulbs $100ish (love the switch back turn signals)

-Dual Dash cam $130

- extra FOB and Key $25

-air raid intake tube $160 (love)

-high flow drop in air filter $55

-usb replacement cigarette lighter chargers $35

-leather steering wrap $20 and patience

- tightened plastic around wheels and bumper


+$200 in random tools/cleaners/accessories ect.


So... I came close to the 18k (well actually to scared to tally it) but I know my truck well now and I’m pretty sure it runs better than 95% of the Tahoe’s out there. And I’m sure I would have at least HALF of the above buying a truck for $18k with 140k miles on it.


Only outstanding “could use/eventually need” items left

-upper ball joints $500 parts ... diy to save $$ (showing signs but still operational)

-(I think) wheel bearings (very very very subtle noise from front left) but when I dig into upper ball joints I will do that

-passenger folding mirror (too pricey to fix even diy)

-drivers bottom heated seat element

-rear hatch door switch (same problem as front passenger door)


Only “wish” is I would have gone 09 if I could’ve afforded it. Both for the updated OnStar/Entertainment/ and most important 6 speed transmission... the 4 speed is underwhelming at times overwhelming at others.


Remember... the sticker in 07 for a loaded luxury 4WD beast with towing up to 8k lbs was $48k plus ... so in 11 years... it was still worth some money. And honestly if I didn’t get the Tahoe I wouldn’t have even close to half the vehicle we do have, and I also wouldn’t have considered any other full size due to mileage and problems.. the HOE was worth it for me. But if it wasn’t, I would have went with the “within my means” or “logical” girlfriend —- a 2017 Ford Escape with 15k miles on it for $18k like my buddy did ... but when we pull into work... or when we take a work outing ... The HOE is always the first choice.


I wanted a Solid V8 - serious off road capabilities - towing - big - power - leather - Bose system - loaded with full size adults comfortable - TRUCK —— can’t beat it for what I paid


Hope that helps you

 

[Awfiretto]

Last thought ... when you actually do find an open dirt or sand area to “floor it in 4 wheel” like Randy Houser mentions in his song “how country feels”... it’s priceless.. grinning ear to ear right now at the laughter and fun my family had the first time and every time after. Also co workers.

Recommended to turn off traction AND stabilitrak to rotate easily.

Another last thought... no doubt for my family’s safety in this thing. Stabilitrak is incredible. I’ve pushed it intentionally to test it late at night on wet roads and it does a great job of keeping the truck on the road or where you want it to go.

 

[Wolfbraid]

...Last week I bought an 07 Yukon with 172,000 miles and a ticking engine...

As for the ticking, double check the header bolts... my 07 had two bolts sheared off(pretty common in these) the exhaust leak sounded very tick tick ticking..been perfect ever since.