Want To Buy but Question About Mileage

[Jcarlson]

Hey folks, newb here. I've been wanting to buy a Tahoe but everything in my $20k or less price range all have well over 100k miles. Even higher price points have high miles.

My questions are -
1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time?

2) at what point mileage wise do parts start needing replaced?

3) am I ok buying one with high miles?

I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles. I know things are different these days. I've had two Grand Cherokees and a Trailblazer with over 150k miles but at that point come the $1,500 repairs.

Thanks
Jim

 

[intheburbs]

200k is the new 100k, at least for trucks, IMHO. I bought both my trucks used, the Suburban with 106k miles and the Denali with 70k miles. The Denali has needed about $3k in repairs over the last two years-front axle halfshaft, front bearings, couple of brake rotors, new ball joints, new shocks/struts, etc. Meanwhile, the Suburban has needed almost nothing; I think the HD components just last longer.

That being said, I'd be nervous buying a truck with over 125k, and would probably pass on anything over 150k. Either way, have it checked out stem to stern by a competent mechanic. When I bought the Denali, it had a leaky front pinion seal. Not even dripping, just wet; had the dealership fix it before I signed the paperwork.

 

[fiatdale]

1. - Here, at least in Houston, everywhere is a long commute. And new vehicle prices are insane, hence people driving the shit out of their current rides, racking up miles.

2. - Parts can need to be replaced as little as 50k miles. Depends on what maintenance has already been done. If its got 100k and new ball joints, brakes, etc you should be in the clear for quite some time. If it hasnt, it will definitely need them and soon. Is the motor running smoothly? Any smoke? There are a couple quick inexpensive fixes for oil consumption you can do on your own to lessen the problem.

3. - Absolutely. - as long as its overall condition fits the bill. This site is a great resource to helping solve issues quickly and as inexpensively as possible.

 

[Doubeleive]

I've put about 24k on mine in the last 16 months, and I have a Silverado I drive also sometimes, that's mostly just around town stuff and a couple decent road trips.
regular maintenance will keep you going, just make a habit of inspecting everything about once a month under the vehicle and under the hood if you catch it right away it's usually beneficial.
I put over 300k on my nbs, I have 239k on the Silverado and the Yukon has 108k and I plan on taking it a LOT farther.

 

[MajorJakkov]

I bought mine with 30K and it just crossed over 120K four years later. I agree with @fiatdale , long commutes can be the biggest driver of high miles. I used to commute ~130 miles a day and would do a 1500 mile round trip to see my family 3 or 4x a year. From personal experience, I would say our vehicles are pretty comfortable to drive long distances so people don't mind taking them on the road and highway miles aren't too harsh. I've only had fluid changes and tires to deal with so far *knock on wood*. The GMT900 suvs have good mechanical reliability. Some trim pieces like the dash, not so much.

 

[Hi-psi]

1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time? It's a shifting trend. Years ago, 10k/yr was considered "average" miles. Then it rose to 12k, then 15k, now for most people it's in a 12k-20k range. Say it's 15k, that puts a 2008 right around 150k for "average" miles. Now, let's add that we're talking about an SUV....which is typically the family roadtrip/vacation vehicle, and it's easy to see how easily mileage can add up.

2) at what point mileage wise do parts start needing replaced? 1k miles, 100k miles, never. Really depends on the vehicle, the way it's been serviced, and driven. That's like asking at what age does a person get their first cavity or need a hip replacement. Some things simply wear out, some things if taken care of don't/won't.

3) am I ok buying one with high miles? If you inspect it well before, or even take it to a dealer or independent shop and pay for a pre-purchase inspection, absolutely. Miles never turn me away from whether or not I purchase a vehicle. It's all about condition. I bought my Yukon Denali with a little over 200k on it and didn't think twice. It was in great shape, extensive dealer service history, etc.

 

[petethepug]

Carfax will be your friend to separate the lemons from lemonade. Flashback 4 years I was in the same $20k dilemma. Refused to allow CA to rob me of $1k+ on registration every year and Ins to soak me after that.

Our 08 had 96k when purchased by one owner who (per carfax) regularly had the big (important) AWD services completed and some regular oil changes done. They all don’t get recorded.

Car fax showed they went back and forth from Oregon to Cali and towing a trailer because a nice trailer brake was installed. We almost drove to AZ from Cali to pick up an old body style, loaded 06 Denali XL w/ 70k clicks for $12k.

There are some good cl finds and 1 owner dealer trades but you’ll have to do your homework to find them. We drove 150 miles and had our other car towed back for free with the SoCal Premier towing up to 200 miles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jcarlson]

$1k registration fee? Holy smokes! Glad I dont live in Ca

 

[Hi-psi]

$1k registration fee? Holy smokes! Glad I dont live in Ca

Most states are going to a different tax/registration process. Georgia switched a few years ago. You now pay a percentage of what the DMV assigns as the value of the vehicle. Doesn't matter if you paid $3,000 for a 2010 Yukon Denali or $25,000....if the DMV decides the value is $15k, then you pay the registration fee based on that.

When I bought my '08 Yukon Denali in March/April of this year, it was a little over $1400 to register it here in GA.

It sucks for people who like to switch/flip vehicles often. A lot of the change here in GA was rooted from dealers complaining they were losing out to private party sales because if Jim sold Joe a Tahoe, they could "say" it was for any kind of price to avoid high sales tax. So, by doing away with "sales tax" on vehicles and changing the way you register them, it effectively leveled the field to where here in GA buying from a private party vs dealer is no different now.

Because of most states being setup now this way is exactly why you'll notice a lot of high end vehicles with Montana plates. LOL Montana has pretty much the easiest and cheapest vehicle registration cost in the US. So, if you live in GA, or CA and just bought a new Lamborghini you can save a ton of money by just paying a couple hundred bucks to setup an LLC in the state of Montana with a PO Box address in Montana, then ABC Company LLC "owns" the Lamborghini so you can register it in the state of Montana.

 

[swathdiver]

You now pay a percentage of what the DMV assigns as the value of the vehicle. Doesn't matter if you paid $3,000 for a 2010 Yukon Denali or $25,000....if the DMV decides the value is $15k, then you pay the registration fee based on that.

Essentially paying a "sales tax" every year.

 

[Hi-psi]

Essentially paying a "sales tax" every year.

Well, yes/no. Previously each year you had to pay a tax to renew your registration/tag. It was usually $100-300 for any relatively new vehicle. Now, with the new registration model, you only pay like $15 each year to renew your registration.

 

[Jcarlson]

Yeah that's ********. Here in Ohio I just renewed my Trailblazer, motorcycle, and three trailers and I thought it sucked paying $250 for all that.

We pay sales tax when we transfer title. What they've done here for sales tax is if I write you a receipt for $100 for the purchase of a Tahoe, they know thats crap and will charge you tax based on the value of the car, not what the receipt says. That's their way of combating the flippers. The flippers rarely transfer titles anyway so what did it do, right?

 

[Miami-Dade]

My questions are -
1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time?

Most people who own these vehicles [like myself] use them a lot for long trips. I used to rent Tahoe's and Suburban's all the time before buying one. All the one year old Tahoe's and Suburban's had 40K miles or more. I have not even had my Hoe for 2 years yet and I am just turned 40K miles.

I do not have a issue buying a high mileage vehicle as long as I have ALL service records. If it was serviced every 5K miles [even better with Mobil 1] you should be good to go. Of coarse have a real good independent mechanic put it on the rack and have EVERYTHING checked out thoroughly.

 

[Doubeleive]

here in CA let's say you gift a vehicle to a friend or relative for $1.00, the DMV just ask's "what is the vehicle worth" and whatever you say is what they put in the system and base the tax on that, they don't have a set amount per vehicle make or model. but they wont accept it being worth a dollar on the same token you have to come up with something reasonably believable.

 

[Jcarlson]

Ok so back on topic here, the general consensus here isn't mileage but rather condition. I get that as I stated earlier I had two Grand Cherokees with 168k+ and both were in great shape.

I see on Carcomplaints.com 2007 was a bad year for oil consumption, but otherwise not a lot of issues mechanically. Are Tahoes built really well?

 

[fiatdale]

2007-2011ish were bad for oil consumption. Even some newer ones still are. There are ways around it that wont cost you a ton though.

Yes they are built solid. Youll love it for years to come.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

The oil consumption issue is a specific vehicle issue, not a model problem. Some drink oil like water. Some, not so much. Our '10 PPV uses zero oil, and my wife beats on it regularly. Got it with ~80K miles on it about 4 years ago, and it's now about 110K.

I now need to do motor mounts and front suspension R&R on the thing, but that's about it. Over 100K, like others have said, look at front end, motor mounts, and maybe have a look behind the throttle blade for the presence of caked oil, which would indicate an oil consumption issue. Many, though, control that with a catch can.

DOD can be an issue on some, too, but again, it's a specific vehicle issue, not a model problem. Our PPV is, as far as I can tell, still running on it's original lifters. Our '12 9C1, however, had the cam and lifters replaced at 48K miles by the dealer. You can never have a problem with it, but you can lose a lifter the day after you park it in your driveway. If this bothers you, plan to do a DOD-delete and new cam. You can do that mod, and gain some performance, too, if it's done right.

If the vehicles are in the rust belt, expect some extra issues due to salt on the roads. Other than that, which is pretty standard, purchasing one of these with >100K on the clock is not a big deal, as long as they get minimal maintenance. There's probably $3K-$4K bump if you look to buy one with less than 100K, but if you plan to own it a while, it might be worth the added expense.

These things, with a couple of exceptions, like the dash pad and motor mounts, are pretty well built.

 

[steve45]

When I look for a vehicle to buy, 100K is where I start looking. My current Tahoe had 90K+ miles, my current Suburban had about the same.

Mechanical problems haven't really been a problem, rather, all the plastic crap in the interior that literally crumbles in your hand when it gets old. Planning to replace the instrument panel in my wife's Tahoe and it's only 9 years old--and the original color isn't available!

 

[Matt81]

i was in a similar situation as you Jim. I always lease new cars and never looked at anything with high miles. My price point was the same as well. I have two kids and wanted something big and safe. Plus the car seat sitatuon was another issue for me. I purchased my 2011 SLT with 154,000 miles for 12 grand. Has leather heated seats, and a DVD player. I did my homework, checked car fax, and learned most of the miles had been highway and vehicle was serviced regularly. I have no regrets. The ride is still comfortable and it meets my families needs. Got a lot of vehicle for an affordable price! I plan on having the vehicle for a long time!

 

[Yukon1]

Hey folks, newb here. I've been wanting to buy a Tahoe but everything in my $20k or less price range all have well over 100k miles. Even higher price points have high miles.

My questions are -
1) where in the heck is everyone going where they all have that kind of mileage in a short amount of time?

2) at what point mileage wise do parts start needing replaced?

3) am I ok buying one with high miles?

I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles. I know things are different these days. I've had two Grand Cherokees and a Trailblazer with over 150k miles but at that point come the $1,500 repairs.

Thanks
Jim

Hey Jim, Per your own words, "I'm 56 yrs old and come from an era where you NEVER bought nor kept a car with over 100k miles". My advise is to not change now. No SUV is worth investing 20k of your hard earned money in that has 100k on it already.

If you want a vehicle that will nickle and dime you to death, then spend your money. I wanted to do the same thing when I was looking for a truck, but I thought about it and decided to look for a two or three year old truck with under 30k, and if you look hard enough, you will find one.

I purchased my truck as a certified pre-owned vehicle with only 17k on it, and man am I glad I did.
It came with a 100k drive-train warranty, and an additional bumper to bumper warranty to 100k or 6 years from the original in service date.

You're 56 yrs old, and don't change now and start buying someone else problems. No matter what others say, high miles equals high miles and a lot of unexpected repair bills that at the end of your use for the truck, will equal paying for a newer truck with a factory warranty.

By yourself a newer two or even three year old (only certified pre-owned) truck, and just look online at places like cars.com for a truck. I had to travel 250 miles to a dealer to pick up my truck, but it was two years old with only 17k on it. They are out there, you don't have to settle for an older truck and pay grand theft money for a wore out vehicle that still looks good.

Take it from a 60 year old man, My 2015 GMC Yukon (purchased it in 2017) was a much better buy in the long run, than a 2010 piece of crap that a dealer detailed and made it look good as new. There is a reason you have never purchased a 100k mile vehicle, and there really is no real reason to start now.

Last point, why would any man in his right mind, spend 20k on a truck with 100k miles on it, and then be told by the dealer that it is being sold as is and shown? There's a reason the dealer wont warranty the truck, because he knows it will be nothing but a money draining pit. So don't let the dealer be smarter than you are, you are the one with the money to spend, spend it wisely or put it back in the bank,

OLD WORE OUT TRUCKS THAT LOOK GOOD AS AS GOOD AS A OLD WOMAN THAT STILL LOOKS GOOD, IF YOU WANT HER OR THE TRUCK TO KEEP OPERATING, THEY WILL BOTH COST YOU LOTS OF HARD EARNED MONEY! And you can take that fact to the bank.