torque pro hybrid Battery pids for P0BBD dtc

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j91z28d1

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so pretty much there's no good info out to be found on these trucks. and definitely not in one place.

scanners that go deep enough to show data and reset useful stuff aren't cheap or easy to find. the free auto parts store scan is mostly useless besides just giving you a code.



as for the codes...

P0BBD = "Hybrid Battery Pack Voltage Variation Exceeded" (usually one or more dead cells) P0AC4 is just a generic code for the Hybrid module telling the Engine module to turn on the yellow check engine light



pretty much anyone over 100k will see this at some point. seems shops don't get it, or people don't want to believe it's time for an expensive battery replacement. hopefully this helps.



the general thinking seems to be these trucks are much harder on the battery than the prius, which they are also used in. that or gm programming just doesn't take care of them well. I'll attach a screen cap from a diagnostic file posted on a different site, I'm sorry I forgot his screen name to credit him but I will try to go back and find it. but it basically shows if the cells are more than 1.5v difference between them for a certain amount of time it throws the code.



I've read that any more than 0.2v isn't great. 1v is hurt and by 1.5v or more the pack is trashed and your truck is probably driving like crap with the ac on and it feels like the tranny is bad or something related to it. I could be, but it's probably not. mpg are probably not great either.
so that lead me to make this post to try and get some of the pids needed to cheaply and simply see how your battery is doing easy to find, because shops seem to be all very bad with this stuff.



you need the app torque pro, it's 5$ android only I believe. 20$ obd2 Bluetooth adapter off Amazon. lots are bad ones but 2 seem to always be good. I'll try and link the ones I tried, both work. I used the Dr prius app website list to pick the known good ones. if it reads the hybrid stuff on a prius it will on ours too but it's the app that interprets all the data for you and none of it come pre loaded.




this is what most people buy..

Wireless Bluetooth Diagnostic OBD2 Scanner Car Code Reader and Scan Tool for All 1996 & Newer Vehicles ELM327 Compatible OBDII for Android Devices ONLY https://a.co/d/gKiDOaq





but this one worked for me too..

NEXAS Nexlink Car Motorcycles... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BPC179W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share



so that brings us to pids. mostly all the apps don't have much defined secondary stuff, so you gotta input it yourself. there's tons of YouTube videos of how to do that using this data. much easier to watch how then me trying to type. just search adding custom Pid to torque pro.



all this I have found in 20 different places around the net, some even here but mostly abandoned boards not used anymore. Facebook really killed message boards. I haven't got to the point I can sort thru a data stream and figure out the pids on my own. I'd love to learn of anyone wants to show how it's done.



for a short quick look, I've found the pids for max voltage cell and min voltage cell. that's pretty much all you'll need, it will show you best and worst pack no matter what order it's in but over all pack voltage is nice to know. current coming and going from the battery. the state of charge. I'll list those first. basically load those up, drive till the state of charge gets high enough to go into auto stop,(they say 70% but I can't get much past 60%) have the ac and stuff on to get around a 10amp draw from the battery and watch the min and max. if there's more than say 1v it's hurt. some wouldn't find 0.5 acceptable, but mine still ran OK around there. by 1.5v it's going to set the code on yours soon enough. mine will show as much as 2v on a hot day. it's bad enough even driving in M4 mode I can tell it's not happy. cool day no ac it still feels fine to me.



this is what you'll put into torque pro under settings, add pid



Max Battery Pack Voltage (Volts)

2240EB

A/10



Min Battery Pack Voltage (Volts)

2240EC

A/10



where the top line is for pid, use the 2240eb number. under equation use the A/10. everything else can stay blank.



do the same for these.



Battery SOC (%)”,”SOC”,”222411″,”(A*(100/255)/1)”,35,90,”SOC





Hybrid Battery Pack Calculated (Volts)”,” BPV”,”2240fe”,”(((A*256)+B)/10)”,0,400,”Volts”







Hybrid Battery Discharge Power Available (kW)”,”DPA”,”2240ee”,”(((A*256)+B)*(1/10)/100)”,-20,50,”kW”





Hybrid Battery Current”,”HBAmps”,”2240d2″,”((A*(100/20)+0)/100)”,-70,70,”Amps”



you only really need the pid number and the equation the rest are just more for the graphing and naming.



so for example this is the format you'll see, I'll use Hybrid Battery Current from above and plug it in like this.





Name.. Hybrid Battery Current.

ShortName... HBAmps


ModeAndPID... 2240d2


Equation.. ((A*(100/20)+0)/100)



Min Value.. - 70

Max Value.. +70

Units.. Amps

Header

start Diagnostic

stop Diagnostic

Scale 1





that should be enough to see what kinda shape your battery is in, or even one your thinking about buying on a dealer lot. it's common for prius guys use the Dr prius app to run battery test before they by one and negotiating price based on battery life left. sadly Dr prius app doesn't work on ours.





here's some other pids I've found for those with more patience and interest.



“1 Hybrid Battery 1 (Volts)”,”BV01″,”2240e4″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 2 (Volts)”,”BV02″,”2240e5″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 3 (Volts)”,”BV03″,”2240e6″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 4 (Volts)”,”BV04″,”22410b”,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 5 (Volts)”,”BV05″,”22410c”,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 6 (Volts)”,”BV06″,”22410d”,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 7 (Volts)”,”BV07″,”2240f0″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 8 (Volts)”,”BV08″,”2240f1″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 9 (Volts)”,”BV09″,”2240f2″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 10 (Volts)”,”BV10″,”2240f3″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″”,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 11 (Volts)”,”BV11″,”2240f4″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 12 (Volts)”,”BV12″,”2240f5″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 13 (Volts)”,”BV13″,”2240f6″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 14 (Volts)”,”BV14″,”2240f7″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 15 (Volts)”,”BV15″,”2240f8″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 16 (Volts)”,”BV16″,”2240f9″,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 17 (Volts)”,”BV17″,”2240fa”,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 18 (Volts)”,”BV18″,”2240fb”,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 19 (Volts)”,”BV19″,”2240fc”,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1

“1 Hybrid Battery 20 (Volts)”,”BV20″,”2240fd”,”A/10″,6,20,”Volts”,”7E7″,””,””,1





Hybrid Battery Cell Temperature Maximum (Degrees F)”,”MAX”,”222416″,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-20,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Cell Temperature Minimum (Degrees F)”,”MIN”,”222417″,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-20,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Charge Power Available (kW)”,”CPA”,”2240ef”,”(((A*256)+B)*(1/10)/100)”,-20,100,”kW”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Discharge Power Available (kW)”,”DPA”,”2240ee”,”(((A*256)+B)*(1/10)/100)”,-20,50,”kW”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Inlet Air Temperature (Degrees F)”,”BIT”,”224107″,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-20,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Module 1 Temperature (Degrees F)”,”M1T”,”2240d7″,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-20,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Module 2 Temperature (Degrees F)”,”M2T”,”2240d9″,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-25,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Module 3 Temperature (Degrees F)”,”M3T”,”2240db”,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-20,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Module 4 Temperature (Degrees F)”,”M4T”,”2240dd”,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-20,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1



“1 Hybrid Battery Outlet Air Temperature (Degrees F)”,”BOT”,”224109″,”(A*(9/5)-40)”,-20,150,”°F”,”7E7″,””,””,1







ACHSPres

221564

0

100

x1

psi

A*2.02

Auto

0 min refresh





Hybrid Battery Pack Fan (RPM)”,”FAN”,”2240e7″,”(A*(25/1)/10)”,0,2000,”RPM”,”7E7″,””,””,1



I don't think I can link to another board but it has probably come up in your search already where you can log you data, post it up and they will graph it out for you. but quick and dirty the min and max is nice.

I'll attach some screen caps of mine, I wish I could imbed them in order, but basically start of auto start, the amp load while cranking in neutral and ending. notice the voltage difference.



just stuff I have searched around for and helped me understand these trucks. my new battery is here, just waiting for time to install it.
 

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j91z28d1

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dnt1010 is his screen screen name on the other site, and I want to think him for posting this up. worth its weight in gold if you need to deep dive into Diagnostics on these trucks
 

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j91z28d1

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for the transmission line pressure. I've found this pid, I believe it is correct but the equation is definitely wrong. but it moves around in the same way it looks like on a big scanner. torque app is never going to be bi directional to command % like in the test attached, but if someone smarter than me can make the equation correct, it can give some data on if it's an aux pump issue or just your battery by logging battery power and line pressure and seeing if it dips while you get a jerk at the same time the battery falls flat too, or not..

on mine the scanner was showing about 48% request aux pump not moving in auto stop mode as a reference to what this pdf says it should be.

for reference it doesn't seem to move much from max to min.

10% should be approximately 40-70 PSI and end up at 80% being approximately 90-120 PSI


Trans Pressure
222862
A*256+B

this trans temp does match the dash. so it works.

Trans.Fl.Tmp
221940
A-40
 

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j91z28d1

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Consider the purchase of a Tech-2 if you are going to keep this truck. @BG1988




yeah, my work scanner is bi-directional it does everything but flash software modules. I have been thinking about picking up a China tech 2 just to see how they work and what theu can do.

but these phone apps are just so handy and cheap. I still want to get as much functionality as I can out of them.
 

BG1988

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just stuff I have searched around for and helped me understand these trucks. my new battery is here, just waiting for time to install it.
So was it OEM, refurbished or the lithium pack?
What scanner i'm interested

I recommend changing the Inverter for the AUX pump and possibly the AUX pump to the newer redesigned one (No new module is required as there is an adapter available for like 60$ or so)
 
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j91z28d1

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So was it OEM, refurbished or the lithium pack?
What scanner i'm interested

I recommend changing the Inverter for the AUX pump and possibly the AUX pump to the newer redesigned one (No new module is required as there is an adapter available for like 60$ or so)

OR
get one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/164960821660

Do it in parallel with the battery..with a 200amp fuse(for safety) that is the same size as the factory fuse

i have not bought one yet but i think it would help with the power sag...at


currently I believe it has the oem 137k miles battery in it. I'll start the swap tomorrow, so I'll know then if someone had changed it out at some point but I doubt it.

new battery is the Nexcell lithium. we shall see how it does, people think they won't hold up to how hard these trucks are on batteries but I wanted to try it. and I know it will eat a oem battery anyways, so why not.


my truck is a 2011 so it should have the newer style aux pump but at this point I'm 99% sure the oem battery is hurting after about 50-80k. gm just adjusted the software to keep trying to use what little bit is left to drag it out to get thru the 8 year 100k warranty. but thats just my theory until I can show some data over time with the new battery.

if you look at this screen cap, you can see just ac on in park and the engine cranks, it pulls 73amps and lowest battery is 9v and highest is 13.9. now imagine it was in gear and trying to move the truck, run the aux pump and crank the engine. it's just going to have all kinds of problems and from my reading on this tranny, they did some tricky stuff with how some line pressure always back fills the check ball circuit that keeps the clutch pack engaged. it makes for quick seamless shifts, but having the aux pump losing power and lurching all around because the battery pack is shit can not be good for the tranny longevity, so while you're putting off spending 3-4k on a battery, you're not doing your 5k tranny any good.

that's my theory thou, I have no way of providing it thou.


oh the scanner is a otc encore. I think for the price a tech 2 would be a better buy. I've seen a legitimate used one for for 1k on eBay, but I am going to pick up a 200$ china one just to play with at some point.
 

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BG1988

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it actually pulls the normal 12volt rail down on start as well I checked with a multimeter this could cause a slump in Aux transmission pressure

i see the voltage drops to about 11.8-12.5volts upon an auto resume start..(10.8 ish on cold start)that is why i'm thinking 1 or 2 of these 12volt capacitors would help out and keep a stable 13.8v when resuming

i checked the battery etc... everything is good and connected good. cleaned grounds replaced the positive cable... MPG is good getting 23.2mpg with 91 octane 0% ethanol averaged over the last 209 miles of combined driving...(it's combined driving in my area due to speed limits and traffic light spacing etc...)

I reenabled AFM gas is over 6$ a gallon now . I know it could damage the engine (I put some of that motorkote )
I averaged 78mpg (according to the meter from the gas station to my house about 3 miles traveling distance)


i'm convinced it will save the engine see the part where he runs it with water :oops::Whoa:

The thing with start cycles is the wear and tear and oil film strength with these engines.


...
 
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j91z28d1

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just out of curiosity I'll look at the current to the aux pump while auto start. but it doesn't surprise me since the 12v battery is charged by the hybrid battery controller stuff, so you pull the power from it, it can't hold the voltage up and you get the 12v stuff running off the battery only. ill look at a wiring diagram this week.


I almost considered pulling the heads when I got it and replacing the afm lifters and vlom so I could leave it enabled, but I just didn't see the benefit for the hassle since I already had hptuners with enough credits left on it to just disable it. I have to many other project cars that need the time. and running cheap gas vs the parts cost, throw in feeling lazy and it didn't add up for me. good luck with it, hopefully that stuff keeps the lifter from sticking for you.
 

BG1988

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just out of curiosity I'll look at the current to the aux pump while auto start. but it doesn't surprise me since the 12v battery is charged by the hybrid battery controller stuff, so you pull the power from it, it can't hold the voltage up and you get the 12v stuff running off the battery only. ill look at a wiring diagram this week.


I almost considered pulling the heads when I got it and replacing the afm lifters and vlom so I could leave it enabled, but I just didn't see the benefit for the hassle since I already had hptuners with enough credits left on it to just disable it. I have to many other project cars that need the time. and running cheap gas vs the parts cost, throw in feeling lazy and it didn't add up for me. good luck with it, hopefully that stuff keeps the lifter from sticking for you.
i change the oil often 3-4k miles the people with AFM issues never changed the oil often enough 6-10k miles??
No sludge in my engine as the previous owners did a good job changing the oil, the oil comes out clean at 4k miles and suitable for reuse in another engine (a shitbox car or lawn mower etc...)

i'm going to change it on Friday when i get paid... with pennzoil oil ultra platinum this is the best oil on the market today....

edit just checked the oil clean i got it changed at 107,532miles currently has 108900 miles i'll get it changed at 109500 miles

i know 2k miles is a short OCI Pennzoil has a deal on the 5qt for buy one get one free MIR i'm going to get 4sets of two 5qt that will be 100$ cash back... $83 for 40qt of oil is cheap $2.07 a qt is cheap it will never be that cheap again
 
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