So I’ve searched around the forum and I haven’t been able to find a write up on how to dive into replacing the valve cover gaskets. Lots of talk about guys doing it, and it being a common issue, but no walk throughs on it. My 6.0 is leaking oil and the shop verified yesterday that’s where it’s coming from. It’s going to cost an arm and a leg to have it done. I want to dive in and try and save the labor costs on it. Anybody got a good write up or links to a good video on doing it? I know it’s involved but I’m at the point where I just want to get it done myself and not wait around for it.
It's not involved at all. I just popped a cover off yesterday to have a look inside and had it back together in about 45 minutes.
First off, do this with the motor cool and after it has sat overnight so no oil will drip out. If you have an air compressor, blow the dirt from all around the area.
1) Slide the locking pin from the coil pack plug so you can lift up on the tab and unplug the coil pack.
2) Remove the 5 studs holding the coil pack to the cover (10mm).
3) Rest the coil pack on the exhaust manifold.
4) Disconnect PCV hose from nipple
5) Loosen the 4 bolts securing the valve cover to the head (8mm). They don't come out, just loosen them so they can be pulled up.
6) Break cover free and remove. For the ones that are stuck on, I screw one of the coil studs back into the cover and use a straight claw hammer to grab it and sharply tug it free. Often times the valve cover gasket will stick to the head. Just peel it off. I use a plastic scraper to pry it up and off.
7) If your gasket kit came with new bolt grommets (and it should), pop out the old ones by yanking or pulling the screw/tubes at an angle.
8) Clean the cover thoroughly. I soak mine in a shallow tub of gasoline to dissolve the grime from the outside and inside of the PCV channel. Then scrub with stiff plastic bristled brush on the outside and sometimes a wire bristled brush on the inside. Rinse it with the hose, soak it with engine degreaser, rinse with hose, spray with brake parts cleaner, then rinse again. During this, I put the water hose directly over the hole in the PCV baffle to force water back through the insides to clean that part. I also spray brake parts cleaner into the hole and into the nipple to clean it from both ends. I spray the hose through it until the water turns clear. I finish by blowing it dry with compressed air, but air drying is fine if you don't have a compressor.
8) Apply a small amount of fresh oil or axle/bearing grease to the inner hole of the new grommet and push the screw/tube through it. This will be the toughest part of the whole process. I got an 8mm (or 6 or 7?) deep wall 1/4" drive socket- whatever size it was that matched the diameter of the flared end of the tube on the screw and pushed it through the grommet to stretch the hole open to the size of that flared part. I put the screw inside the socket all the way so that the tube bottomed out against the tip of the socket, then used a bigger 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket that slid over the smaller socket to push the grommet down and over the flared part of the tube. I know this sounds confusing and like a lot, but once you have it all in your hands and follow it, it'll make sense. I should've taken pics as I was doing this.
9) Once you get the grommet on the tube, grease or oil the outer perimeter of the grommet and slip the screw/tube/grommet assembly through the hole in the cover and push it into position. I pressed on the top side while I pulled and wiggled the screw and tube in a circular motion from the underside until the grommet was fully into position. Repeat for all 8 grommets.
10) Lay the new gasket in the channel on the cover. Press it all around the perimeter so that it's even all around.
11) Installation is the reverse of removal.
