HiHoeSilver
Away!
Pics of your asses meow.
Useless Information
- Thread starter swathdiver
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Pics of your asses meow.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I didn't know that these had an improved CD. So are you saying that most of it comes from the redesigned rear?
yes the square rear shape helped changed it....
that is why the 2015 has the evolved version since it's based on the hybrid rear end the main revised part is the flat glass
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Cool, we think it funny that my truck is more aerodynamic than our little Kia Spectra sedan!
here you go MEOW ...View attachment 218372
i took some forced prospective photos to you can see it better
Geo metro has a coefficient of
0.34 Geo Metro (Hatchback)
so the tahoe has the same as a Geo metro but at 5200 pounds you will not get Geo metro gas mileage ..
Last edited:
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Looks almost like mine except for the second muffler. Now I know why they made those air compressors for your Hybrids. I keep one in my truck to air up the tires.
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Finished up another tank of E30 today. This one delivered 14.25 mpg at 25.82 mph. Lots of idling with 12 and a quarter hours on this tank of fuel.
Fired up the Tech-2 to check alcohol content on the way home and the fuel trims were way high, into the teens but no codes. Usually they settle to zero once underway on the highway but they only got into the low single digits. Mileage should have been better but was not.
I've had a nagging suspicion for a year that the intake needed tightening. I can't climb up there and do it without breaking the car or myself and finally got my daughter to help me do it. Found the two center bolts on each side loose, one quite a bit. Didn't fire the truck up as we're doing brakes and she up in the air with the tires off. Will check it out while burnishing.
My daughter pointed out a previously wet area on the engine cover. Back where the heater hoses are which look new. Nothing was wet or dripping back there. I suspect it is an old stain and I may have seen and investigated this before but my memory fails me quite often these days.
Fired up the Tech-2 to check alcohol content on the way home and the fuel trims were way high, into the teens but no codes. Usually they settle to zero once underway on the highway but they only got into the low single digits. Mileage should have been better but was not.
I've had a nagging suspicion for a year that the intake needed tightening. I can't climb up there and do it without breaking the car or myself and finally got my daughter to help me do it. Found the two center bolts on each side loose, one quite a bit. Didn't fire the truck up as we're doing brakes and she up in the air with the tires off. Will check it out while burnishing.
My daughter pointed out a previously wet area on the engine cover. Back where the heater hoses are which look new. Nothing was wet or dripping back there. I suspect it is an old stain and I may have seen and investigated this before but my memory fails me quite often these days.
Yeah I put 91 octane and shaved off 0.3 gallons used.. off a 140 mies trip
I noticed it was not dropping to 3rd gear. only 3 times out of of 70 miles drive up hill (2 of were due to traffic slow downs and 1 necessary "speed up")
it pretty clear these V8 engines Prefer High Octane Fuel
VVT enabled
Electric PowerCharger...
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Brakes are not going easy, the little screws that tighten the rotor to the hub are rusted and now stripped. Going to pick up a hand impact driver and if that fails, drill them out.
Many folks say these are put there only for the factory but the shop manual says to reuse them. Factory ones are too far away and expensive, we found some a Home Depot with a phillips head in stainless. Will use liberal amount of anti-seize on them.
Happy Saint Patrick's Day! Enjoy your corned beef fellas! I can't decide if my favorite is dinner with all the trimmings or leftover sandwiches on rye bread; both!
Many folks say these are put there only for the factory but the shop manual says to reuse them. Factory ones are too far away and expensive, we found some a Home Depot with a phillips head in stainless. Will use liberal amount of anti-seize on them.
Happy Saint Patrick's Day! Enjoy your corned beef fellas! I can't decide if my favorite is dinner with all the trimmings or leftover sandwiches on rye bread; both!
Drill the heads off pull the rotors and a set of vice grips after some penetrating oil should get ‘em out
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I doused them with PB Blaster the night before we started working and put a propane torch on them last night without luck. Didn't want to upset the neighbors with hammering or drills but going to after the grocery run. Thanks. I'll try the impact driver first but will drill the head off if that doesn't work. One hub is getting replaced, we did the other in August of 2017, must've forgotten to put anti-seize on the screw.
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
FYI: Front Brake Component Part Numbers
Truck: 2009 GMC Yukon XL with JD9 and JL4 RPO Brake Codes
2 - Front Brake Rotors - 22950036/177-1014
2 - Brake Rotor Bolts - 11609271 or M8-1.25x20
1 - Front Brake Pad Kit - 22742382/171-1074 (includes slides)
2 - Front Brake Caliper Slide Pins and Bolts - 18K1863
1 - Front Brake Caliper Bushings (Boots) - 18K1169
1 - Front Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clips - 18K1025SS
4 - Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt - 15016308/Dorman 14006 (replace only as necessary)
1 - 8 oz. Can of Silicone Brake Lubricant - 10-4019
Drag Reduction Clips are new to me, the slides also include a psuedo spring but the originals on some were pushed back and no longer effective.
Boots were easy to replace. Secure bracket in a vise and use flat blade screwdriver and hammer to get under lip and work around until you can pop it out. Then clean up old grease. I coated new boots with brake fluid to make them easy to slip into a 21mm deep socket. Place extended boot into the socket and both over hole in caliper bracket and a few good blows with the hammer should seat them evenly. Easy peasy.
Folks say the little screw in the rotor was for the factory, but the shop manual says to reuse them. Mine were wrecked coming out so we're using some from Home Depot with a Phillips Slot. I'd prefer an Allen/Hex (Hillman #44538) or Torx but don't want to wait. These will be Crown Bolt #15888.
Torque Specifications:
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolts - 74 FTLBS - 19mm Socket for the Bolt, 3/4" Wrench for the Pins
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts - 148 FTLBS - 18mm Socket
Brake Rotor Bolt (aka Brake Disc Retaining Screw) - 106 INLBS/8.9 FTLBS - T30?
Truck: 2009 GMC Yukon XL with JD9 and JL4 RPO Brake Codes
2 - Front Brake Rotors - 22950036/177-1014
2 - Brake Rotor Bolts - 11609271 or M8-1.25x20
1 - Front Brake Pad Kit - 22742382/171-1074 (includes slides)
2 - Front Brake Caliper Slide Pins and Bolts - 18K1863
1 - Front Brake Caliper Bushings (Boots) - 18K1169
1 - Front Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clips - 18K1025SS
4 - Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt - 15016308/Dorman 14006 (replace only as necessary)
1 - 8 oz. Can of Silicone Brake Lubricant - 10-4019
Drag Reduction Clips are new to me, the slides also include a psuedo spring but the originals on some were pushed back and no longer effective.
Boots were easy to replace. Secure bracket in a vise and use flat blade screwdriver and hammer to get under lip and work around until you can pop it out. Then clean up old grease. I coated new boots with brake fluid to make them easy to slip into a 21mm deep socket. Place extended boot into the socket and both over hole in caliper bracket and a few good blows with the hammer should seat them evenly. Easy peasy.
Folks say the little screw in the rotor was for the factory, but the shop manual says to reuse them. Mine were wrecked coming out so we're using some from Home Depot with a Phillips Slot. I'd prefer an Allen/Hex (Hillman #44538) or Torx but don't want to wait. These will be Crown Bolt #15888.
Torque Specifications:
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolts - 74 FTLBS - 19mm Socket for the Bolt, 3/4" Wrench for the Pins
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts - 148 FTLBS - 18mm Socket
Brake Rotor Bolt (aka Brake Disc Retaining Screw) - 106 INLBS/8.9 FTLBS - T30?
Last edited:
Nice James
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Nice James
Thanks Pete! Thought this would be a good use of my down time while waiting for parts to arrive.
Last edited:
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Alright, the front brakes and hub are done and broke in! Quiet as a mouse!
OP
OP
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Had to remove 3 turkey baster tubes of brake fluid from the reservoir. Started leaking out the cap as I compressed the driver's side caliper and my daughter was looking at her phone and not the reservoir! LOL That's three turkey basters I've had to buy for the Missus now. Maybe we should actually keep one in the garage?
Bought 3 quarts of Lucas Oil brake fluid but wound up not needing it. The fluid that came out was the color of light maple syrup. My daughter's little Kia used up almost a quart when we replaced one of her calipers too. I guess we'll replace the fluid when we replace the calipers and hoses; hopefully in 100k miles!
Took her out on the highway and no more rhythmic hum from the hub either. LTFTs were down at low speed and idle and back to zero at speed too. We tightened some of the intake bolts that were loose. I reckon we'll have to replace them in a year or so.
Now the clean up of the work bench and tools and driveway begins! Well, not tonight, but over the next few days.
Bought 3 quarts of Lucas Oil brake fluid but wound up not needing it. The fluid that came out was the color of light maple syrup. My daughter's little Kia used up almost a quart when we replaced one of her calipers too. I guess we'll replace the fluid when we replace the calipers and hoses; hopefully in 100k miles!
Took her out on the highway and no more rhythmic hum from the hub either. LTFTs were down at low speed and idle and back to zero at speed too. We tightened some of the intake bolts that were loose. I reckon we'll have to replace them in a year or so.
Now the clean up of the work bench and tools and driveway begins! Well, not tonight, but over the next few days.
Last edited:
Similar threads
