Useless Information

[mountie]

That one is listed as .20 inches thick.

Here's another made for automotive use, very thin:

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

As cool you would want your air, that looks reflective, but ( IMO), not also, insulating the heat away ??

 

[swathdiver]

As cool you would want your air, that looks reflective, but ( IMO), not also, insulating the heat away ??

Ok, so it's the wrong stuff.

I just realized that the IAT sensor is part of the MAF sensor and attaches to the top of the airbox.

So while I think the insulation will keep the box cool, it needs a scoop and hoses to direct cool and dense air into it and think that is more critical once moving. My IATs didn't really go down until I turned off at the end was going to get my timeslip!

 

[Marky Dissod]

This time and last time I was watching the inlet air temps while staging and running.
While it was 55F - 41F outside, the air going into the motor was never less than 75F - 90F even after sitting for over an hour,
sometimes almost two with the hood up!

Over the years while driving, the truck's inlet air temp would climb into the triple digits while idling,
and take a few minutes to get at or just above ambient temperature once out onto the highway.

Should I take the intake off the throttle body and air everything out while waiting to race?

Grab cold air from outside. (Even in NYC, cowl induction gets spotted once in a blue moon, as well as scoops or NACA ducts.)
You not only want to insulate the airbox from heat, but also add another physical heatshield of some sort as well.
Bonus points for protecting the airbox from air that went through the radiator, and for protecting the airbox from that heat.
The goal is to be able to apply / attach cold packs to as much of the intake as reasonably possible.
Obviously they will stay colder longer if the heat underhood is better managed.

Too bad we can't make use of the air cooled by the AC, even if only for a few important moments.
Ultimately, though, none of this is as productive as you'd like to think ...

 

[mountie]

Grab cold air from outside. (Even in NYC, cowl induction gets spotted once in a blue moon, as well as scoops or NACA ducts.)
You not only want to insulate the airbox from heat, but also add another physical heatshield of some sort as well.
Bonus points for protecting the airbox from air that went through the radiator, and for protecting the airbox from that heat.
The goal is to be able to apply / attach cold packs to as much of the intake as reasonably possible.
Obviously they will stay colder longer if the heat underhood is better managed.

Too bad we can't make use of the air cooled by the AC, even if only for a few important moments.
Ultimately, though, none of this is as productive as you'd like to think ...

I was also suggesting to protect the air duct, coming from the air box to the intake....

 

[Marky Dissod]

I was also suggesting to protect the air DUCT, coming from the air box to the intake ...

My bad for failing to mention this.
Yes, anything and everything that can be done to not only inhale air from outside the engine bay,
but also to insulate separate and protect the entire intake from the airbox to the throttle body from heat does help.

Speaking of which, throttlebody coolant bypass!
Coolant has been running through the throttlebody since carburetion and throttlebody injection,
when fuel vapors could freeze on the throttlebody, effectively freezing the throttle itself stuck in one position.

Even though fuel is injected far further down each cylinder individually today,
coolant is still routed through the throttlebody so that any motor oil vapors condensed on its backside
won't be gummed up by being cold.
When one does the throttlebody coolant bypass, it's a GREAT time to clean its backside before reinstallation.

Vehicles that operate where it's winter-cold year round should NOT do the throttlebody coolant bypass.

Back when intake manifolds were made of metals, racers went so far as to ice them down between track passes.
It was considered rude to drip condensate on the track ...

 

[swathdiver]

Back when intake manifolds were made of metals, racers went so far as to ice them down between track passes.
It was considered rude to drip condensate on the track ...

We used to bring 40 pound bags of ice and lay them on top of the motor between runs! LOL That got old quick.

I used to block off the water from the throttle bodies way back when.

On my trucks now, the foam was shrinking between the box and fender. GM came out with replacement foam on a bracket shaped to fix the box. I have that on the Yukon now. Still have to do it to the Sierra, or she's getting a Volant soon after the tune.

In a few weeks I'll start the catch can project. Have to finish setting up the band saw and get a tap and die for the alternator bracket. Truck only has one threaded hole while the pickups have two where I want to mount the bracket.

 

[Fless]

We used to bring 40 pound bags of ice and lay them on top of the motor between runs! LOL That got old quick.

I used to block off the water from the throttle bodies way back when.

On my trucks now, the foam was shrinking between the box and fender. GM came out with replacement foam on a bracket shaped to fix the box. I have that on the Yukon now. Still have to do it to the Sierra, or she's getting a Volant soon after the tune.

In a few weeks I'll start the catch can project. Have to finish setting up the band saw and get a tap and die for the alternator bracket. Truck only has one threaded hole while the pickups have two where I want to mount the bracket.

@iamdub did some new foam on his:

Growing up doesn't have to suck

I had some 20K-mile LS6 springs (yellow) from some Z06 heads I had for a past project. I got the 2600-2800 converter. I think it's the famed I-6 Trailblazer converter, but with an upgraded clutch and slightly higher stall. The rep said my Tahoe should still roll if I idled in gear with my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[swathdiver]

@iamdub did some new foam on his:

Growing up doesn't have to suck

I had some 20K-mile LS6 springs (yellow) from some Z06 heads I had for a past project. I got the 2600-2800 converter. I think it's the famed I-6 Trailblazer converter, but with an upgraded clutch and slightly higher stall. The rep said my Tahoe should still roll if I idled in gear with my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I remember! That's what prompted me to look at mine and then found the solution at GMPartsGiant.

 

[swathdiver]

Well fellas, it's that time again. Going to the hospital and I'll see ya sometime after. Take care. - James

 

[Tonyrodz]

Well fellas, it's that time again. Going to the hospital and I'll see ya sometime after. Take care. - James

I hope everything turns out ok for you James. Be well my friend.

 

[Fless]

@swathdiver saying a prayer for your health and well-being.

 

[swathdiver]

I'm back home and doing well.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I'm back home and doing well.

Great to have you back--great-er that you're doing well James!!

 

[petethepug]

Welcome back! I’m pretty sure I have enough Rx taken daily to assign chess board pieces to all the shapes, sizes and colors of the pills.

 

[swathdiver]

Well that didn't take long. Recovering from surgery and caught the flu. Now recovering from that.

Oddities:

Last week we were heading over to my father's home for his birthday. The truck was remote started and as I pulled out onto my street the Service Park Assist message came up on the DIC and the light on the button/switch would flicker. I would engage the cruise control and it would cut out every time the park assist would flicker. There was no problem on the way home and it hasn't acted up again since.

Was taking my wife to dinner the other night and while on the highway I noticed that the engine's oil pressure was about 10 psi below normal. The needle is usually just below 40 psi at speed and it was around 30 psi. Oil level was a little low but still showing on the has marks on the stick. My wife has been driving it mostly since I've been sick. We're about 3,000 miles on this oil change.

The next morning at the cabin I put they key in the ignition and fired it up and the motor didn't want to run. It stayed running at about 250 rpms, oil pressure was slow to come up and I shut it off and started over. Ran fine after that. Oil pressure was still low but not as low as the day before on the way home.

Idle pressure appears to be about 3-5 psi lower than normal, about 20 hot.

The first thing I'm going to do today with it is change the oil filter. I normally run the long K&N Gold HP2011 filters and it has an ACDelco PF48 on it right now.

If that doesn't rectify the oil pressure, I'll pull the intake and remove the screen under the oil pressure sensor. My 6.2s don't have them. She's still rockin' her original oil pressure sensor.

Comments, suggestions?

 

[swathdiver]

Scanned the computer system with the Tech-2 and P0521 00 came up, the oil pressure sensor! So in light of that revelation, we'll change that first and take it from there.

Good time to clean the throttle body and Mass Airflow Sensor too.

 

[swathdiver]

Last night we took off the intake and replaced the oil pressure sensor. Earlier, I had taken out the MAF and throttle body and did my annual cleaning, albeit a couple months late. Throttle body had some oil in it from the PCV system.

The rat chewed off some foam from around the air cleaner and moved it to the top of the back of the intake manifold. Guess he was going to set up shop back there, not anymore. He was spotted later in the evening so I guess he wasn't on that ride to Tampa a few weeks ago!

Underside of the truck is covered in oil. VLOM bolts were slightly loose. There was no screen under the oil pressure sensor, I was going to remove it anyway.

Oil pressure was still low, 19-20 psi in gear at idle. Torque Pro app could not detect historical DTCs.

This afternoon I took the Tech-2 and cleared the oil pressure code. Recycled the key and turned the motor back on, oil pressure still low.

After dinner my daughter and I put the truck up on the ramps and she swapped out the PF48 for the HP2011, motor was down about a quart so I topped it off once off the ramps and warmed up.

Oil pressure back to normal!

Since the rat has been eating all the toads in front of the house, I put out a trap with some pot roast on it!

 

[Rocket Man]

Glad to hear the oil pressure went back up, I bet that was a relief! Good work as always, James!

 

[swathdiver]

Oil Pressure no longer normal!

There is oil everywhere underneath the truck and it is pooling on the ground now. The oil pressure is low again, holding at about 20 psi while in gear at idle and only going up to about 30 psi at speed like before.

So when it stops raining, will top off the oil and check the pressure again, then call a guy and see when I can the truck up on his lift and have a look around underneath.

What kind of external engine oil leak can cause the oil pressure to drop? Enquiring minds want to know!

 

[mountie]

Oil Pressure no longer normal!

There is oil everywhere underneath the truck and it is pooling on the ground now. The oil pressure is low again, holding at about 20 psi while in gear at idle and only going up to about 30 psi at speed like before.

So when it stops raining, will top off the oil and check the pressure again, then call a guy and see when I can the truck up on his lift and have a look around underneath.

What kind of external engine oil leak can cause the oil pressure to drop? Enquiring minds want to know!

A hole in the block? Oil leak into ezhaust emissions? The oil pressure has to escape somewhere.....?

Poor connection with the oil pressure sensor? Adjust your reading glasses ??
I know... I'm not helping.....