Transmission gone... does this rebuild estimate seem fair?

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NickTransmissions

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Scotty on YouTube warns against "trusting" any shop to rebuild your transmission.
Do you have a link to this video of his? I’d search but he’s got a billion videos on his channel so would take me forever to find it.

I’m curious as to his rationale & supporting arguments for that statement.

Some shops are down right incompetent, others are unscrupulous and some are both but many are trustworthy and do a good job for their customers.

The main thing for consumers is be sufficiently informed so they can ask the right questions so they know when to walk away if the shop’s answers don’t cut it.
 

Thrust

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Shops will have varying rates depending on what they do to the trans, local market going rates for an overhaul as well as cost to R/R the unit to and from the vehicle.

That said, for that amount of money, I’d want to know exactly what they are doing/installing upon overhaul. It should include the following, in addition to stuff like filter, gaskets, seals, orings, sealing rings:

1. New frictions and steels - tell them you want Borg Warner or Raybestos high energy clutches and a new steel module for all clutch packs (consider a kolene pressure plate and steels for the 4-5-6 clutch pack)

2. New TEHCM, Internal Mode Switch, wiring harness and speed sensors - all must be OEM and Fast adaptive relearn performed

3. Sonnax Zip kit installed (has updated valves for the valve body and pump)

4. Pump completely overhauled (both working surfaces machined flat/true, pump rotor and slide-to-deck clearance set at .0015”)

5. 3-5-R drum re-welded at the base where it leaks to prevent recurrence

6. Sonnax 1-2-3-4 billet aluminum apply piston installed in place of factory piston

7. All brand new bonded steel and rubber pistons/piston dams

8. New OEM rear sprag clutch

9. New snap ring for the sprag assembly

10. New torque converter with .050” or thicker converter clutch - DO NOT let them give you an oem converter with the same POS .020” thick clutch as it fails repeatedly

11. Optional unless high peformance or heavy duty: Sonnax billet 4-5-6 clutch hub with Sonnax apply/dam piston kit to run an additional friction and steel in the 4-5-6 clutch pack. The OEM hub can snap in half under power

12. Cooler bypass delete kit or at least a lower temp thermostat so it runs cooler than stock

13. New, updated parking rod assembly (these were prone to failure and if that happens you lose the ability to put the vehicle into park)
What's your recommendation if say a 6.2L with a 2.3L Magnuson was attached to this 6l80e? Same parts or would you change anything?
Thanks as I'm sure mine will need a rebuild in the not so distant future.
 

NickTransmissions

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What's your recommendation if say a 6.2L with a 2.3L Magnuson was attached to this 6l80e? Same parts or would you change anything?
Thanks as I'm sure mine will need a rebuild in the not so distant future.
All the above updates/procedures plus billet converter cover and tuning to optimize trans control based on application and power levels (you may or may not need a small diameter converter depending on desired stall speed)…If you’re going over 800hp, I’d also consider installing a rear planetary carrier assembly with a billet steel drive plate.

You can also look at “all in one” performance kits like this one from Circle D for your soft parts and select hard parts. Id also install a teflon coated bushing kit (all bushings w/teflon coating not just the pump body). Also adjust front end play down to .020”-.030” from the factory set .050” via shims. This is normally not adjustable in the 6L family of transmissions as GM decided to eliminate selective pump thrust washers.

Lastly replace the IMS, speed sensors and harness w/OEM GM parts (all rebuilds, not just high performance).
 

swathdiver

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Attached is the quote I received this morning, adding $500 for new Billet TC.
Have they removed it from the truck yet or dropped the pan?

They may stink at writing up estimates but do good work. The guy I would use up in your area has become a missionary and left the country! He was in DeLand.

Ask if they are using a Florida Torque Converter:

 
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PJDYukonXL

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Have they removed it from the truck yet or dropped the pan?

They may stink at writing up estimates but do good work. The guy I would use up in your area has become a missionary and left the country! He was in DeLand.

Ask if they are using a Florida Torque Converter:

Yes... had it all apart this morning (pics attached).

I believe FTC is their supplier. That website matches what they sent me as the specs of the new TC.
 

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PJDYukonXL

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Did you ask them any of the questions in my previous posts?

If so, what did they say?
Well, to say I got a little pushback from the mechanic (not owner) questioning his plan would be putting it mildly. I understand he probably gets tired of internet mechanics/ experts questioning him the same way my wife hates "Dr. Google" in her medical field.

That said, he did go through each of your questions with me.

Yes, all bushings are being replaced.

He said the pump looked to be in good shape and did not want to open it up. He claimed "tinkering" with them can cause more problems.

Is not planning to reinforce base welds.

Not using factory piston

Mechanic couldn't tell me the clutch thickness of new TC, just that it was an upgraded part from OEM. I believe it's from Florida Torque Converter

Snap ring will be replaced.

Transmission will be reprogrammed by dealer

The owner then went on to tell me that they stand by all their work and that the 40 years of business and 500+ 5 star reviews should help speak to the quality of their work. He assured me that they will lifetime warranty ALL the parts of the transmission whether they replaced the part or not (?!?).

In the end, I recognize I could probably get this done cheaper somewhere else, but am trusting his reputation that they are doing the best for me.
 

NickTransmissions

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He said the pump looked to be in good shape and did not want to open it up. He claimed "tinkering" with them can cause more problems.

Is not planning to reinforce base welds.
Id have taken it elsewhere based on the above two responses.

1) You ALWAYS reinforce the 3-5-R drum base welds in these transmissions. Literally the number one pattern failure in these transmissions is leaking welds at the drum resulting in burnt 3-5-R clutches (no reverse, third or fifth gear)

GM introduced an updated design but still has issues. This article/video explains the problem. The updated drum has a QR code on the drum to ID it as the latest version. You may have one thus why he’s comfortable not reinforcing the welds but i do it on all of them regardless, unless it’s already been done.

2) You ALWAYS recondition the pump castings.

His response tells me he doesn’t have a vertical CNC mill which is what you need to machine the pump body. I don’t have one either but my machinist does and its extremely rare for the surfaces to still be flat/true and without scoring after 100k plus miles.

He has to open it up to change the vanes (veins) anyway.

I understand his position as i sometimes get irritated with people asking questions where it’s obvious they didnt do any research prior but at the same time, i also understand how important it is to help the customer understand what’s being done and why so he understands what he’s paying for.

This shop rep’s attitude is a big reason why I decided to teach myself how to rebuild transmissions (well that and i was ripped off by a trans shop earlier in life). There really shouldn’t have been any push back at all given what you were asking.

But if the shop stands behind their work then all you’ll be out is time w/o the vehicle if it has to go back for warranty work.

Best of luck with it, please keep the thread updated on how things go once you get it back.
 
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mikehooo

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2016 Yukon XL SLT - 95k miles. 6l80 transmission - 2 nights ago felt like it was starting in 4th gear, kept changing gears on highway, clunky shifting. Took it to a local shop and was told the following:

We have thoroughly inspected your transmission. The valve body assembly (hydraulic cross leak) and the Torque Converter(overheating) are bad. The transmission has other internal failures; ie, burnt clutches and steels.

We can fix it. The first step is to remove, disassemble, and inspect the transmission. This labor equals $1,420.00.

The range the rebuild this six (6) speed transmission is from
$5,680.00 up to $6,350.00 + taxes

The inspection labor is included in the price range above.


Comes with lifetime warranty on internal mechanical parts.

Does this seem like a fair estimate? Transmission shop has 4.9 star rating with 500 reviews in Orlando, FL.

Also, anything I should try to have upgraded at this time?
You can order a NEW trans. from on GM cheaper than their estimate to repair your old one. Just thought you may want to check into that.
 

daveclark

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Do you have a link to this video of his? I’d search but he’s got a billion videos on his channel so would take me forever to find it.

I’m curious as to his rationale & supporting arguments for that statement.

Some shops are down right incompetent, others are unscrupulous and some are both but many are trustworthy and do a good job for their customers.

The main thing for consumers is be sufficiently informed so they can ask the right questions so they know when to walk away if the shop’s answers don’t cut it.
 

daveclark

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Nick, I don't have the link to his You Tube I cited but it shouldn't be hard to search out.
Try Remanufactured transmission... or reasons not to rebuild a trans...
I would believe Scotty's experience is what his former client's or current bloggers report.
 

daveclark

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Nick, I don't have the link to his You Tube I cited but it shouldn't be hard to search out.
Try Remanufactured transmission... or reasons not to rebuild a trans...
I would believe Scotty's experience is what his former client's or current bloggers report.
While I have your attention please let me know what you think about the symptoms of my problem transmission.
The engine starts, seems to run rough. When I put it in gear and press the accelerator the rpm's come up but the transmission doesn't seem to upshift unless I take my foot off the pedal. A friend who says he had the same symptom on an older truck seems to think it is merely a shifting rpm sensor malfunction. Are you familiar with this? Please let me know. Thanks very much.
I would hate to spend nearly 6k when a 30$ part is the problem.
 

NickTransmissions

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Nick, I don't have the link to his You Tube I cited but it shouldn't be hard to search out.
Try Remanufactured transmission... or reasons not to rebuild a trans...
I would believe Scotty's experience is what his former client's or current bloggers report.
No worries, figured if you had it handy we could take a look at it but if not, no biggie.

I take a lot of what he says with a grain of salt as his channel’s more for entertainment with some good knowledge nuggets mixed in….And he is partially right as some (not all) shops definitely fit into his characterization but others such as myself don’t.

I’d take any 6L80e that I or another informed builder puts together over any generically constructed reman unit.
 
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NickTransmissions

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While I have your attention please let me know what you think about the symptoms of my problem transmission.
The engine starts, seems to run rough. When I put it in gear and press the accelerator the rpm's come up but the transmission doesn't seem to upshift unless I take my foot off the pedal. A friend who says he had the same symptom on an older truck seems to think it is merely a shifting rpm sensor malfunction. Are you familiar with this? Please let me know. Thanks very much.
I would hate to spend nearly 6k when a 30$ part is the problem.
What transmission?

Generally, no upshift until you let off the gas pedal often indicates worn frictions for whichever clutch pack(s) are being commanded “on” that arent able to hold under throttle but will hold under idle-level pressures.

If you had a VSS or input speed sensor problem, your trans would go into limp mode and you’d have no upshifts at all.
 

daveclark

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No worries, figured if you had it handy we could take a look at it but if not, no biggie.

I take a lot of what he says with a grain of salt as his channel’s more for entertainment with some good knowledge nuggets mixed in….And but he is partially right as some (not all) shops definitely fit into his characterization but others such as myself don’t.

I’d take any 6L80e that I or another informed builder puts together over any generically constructed reman unit.
I'm under the impression I have a 4L80E transmission. I have a 4x4 diesel 2 door.
Are you familiar with Jasper brand?
What transmission?

Generally, no upshift until you let off the gas pedal often indicates worn frictions for whichever clutch pack(s) are being commanded “on” that arent able to hold under throttle but will hold under idle-level pressures.

If you had a VSS or input speed sensor problem, your trans would go into limp mode and you’d have no upshifts at all.
I have a 4L80E trans
 

NickTransmissions

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I'm under the impression I have a 4L80E transmission. I have a 4x4 diesel 2 door.
Are you familiar with Jasper brand?

I have a 4L80E trans
Yep, I know jasper and have rebuilt a few of their stock-level 4l60e transmissions. Nothing negative to say about them, they do a good job from what i have seen. The ones that came through were used in higher performance applications so needed to be beefed up.

Id suggest starting a separate thread in the “engine and drivetrain” subforum that corresponds to your year vehicle for your 4L80 so we don’t side-track this one and id be happy to answer questions about it there.
 

daveclark

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Yep, I know jasper and have rebuilt a few of their stock-level 4l60e transmissions. Nothing negative to say about them, they do a good job from what i have seen. The ones that came through were used in higher performance applications so needed to be beefed up.

Id suggest starting a separate thread in the “engine and drivetrain” subforum that corresponds to your year vehicle for your 4L80 so we don’t side-track this one and id be happy to answer questions about it there.
Will go there now. Thx.
 

swathdiver

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Yes... had it all apart this morning (pics attached).

I believe FTC is their supplier. That website matches what they sent me as the specs of the new TC.
Well, she'll be better than new soon enough. Make sure you get the lower temp transmission thermostat put in or "flip the pill" if it'll stay in Florida and change the fluid every 36K or so from now on. The Florida Torque Converters are tough and guaranteed. They wouldn't tell me all that they do to them or even if they use Sonnax parts but they stand by them and after spot checking every couple of years, have never seen a failure reported across the internet.
 

SpyShops212

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Shops will have varying rates depending on what they do to the trans, local market going rates for an overhaul as well as cost to R/R the unit to and from the vehicle.

That said, for that amount of money, I’d want to know exactly what they are doing/installing upon overhaul. It should include the following, in addition to stuff like filter, gaskets, seals, orings, sealing rings:

1. New frictions and steels - tell them you want Borg Warner or Raybestos high energy clutches and a new steel module for all clutch packs (consider a kolene pressure plate and steels for the 4-5-6 clutch pack)

2. New TEHCM, Internal Mode Switch, wiring harness and speed sensors - all must be OEM and Fast adaptive relearn performed

3. Sonnax Zip kit installed (has updated valves for the valve body and pump)

4. Pump completely overhauled (both working surfaces machined flat/true, pump rotor and slide-to-deck clearance set at .0015”)

5. 3-5-R drum re-welded at the base where it leaks to prevent recurrence

6. Sonnax 1-2-3-4 billet aluminum apply piston installed in place of factory piston

7. All brand new bonded steel and rubber pistons/piston dams

8. New OEM rear sprag clutch

9. New snap ring for the sprag assembly

10. New torque converter with .050” or thicker converter clutch - DO NOT let them give you an oem converter with the same POS .020” thick clutch as it fails repeatedly

11. Optional unless high peformance or heavy duty: Sonnax billet 4-5-6 clutch hub with Sonnax apply/dam piston kit to run an additional friction and steel in the 4-5-6 clutch pack. The OEM hub can snap in half under power

12. Cooler bypass delete kit or at least a lower temp thermostat so it runs cooler than stock

13. New, updated parking rod assembly (these were prone to failure and if that happens you lose the ability to put the vehicle into park)
I would listen to this guy nick and when my 10 speed goes out in my 2018 Escalade nick will be the one that will fix my transmission.
 

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