Completed my first transmission rebuild.

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Hey all. A few days ago, I just got done with doing my first transmission rebuild on my 4l60e for my `00 Tahoe 4x4. I have barely 100 miles on her so far and with no issues (knock wood).

I am just giving you a brief description of what I’ve done and hopefully answer some question for any other novice like myself who wish to give this a try. Photos included is not a complete teardown. Just snippets of after the removal it’s guts and the mostly reassembled unit.

I ordered the bulk of my rebuild kit from Transmission bench which also provided the rebuild video (that I paid separately. However, if you order the full kit the video is included).

I cannot stress how important that video was for me. It was the sole purpose for me to even consider doing this build on my own. The level of accuracy and this man’s ability to not miss a step made doing this rebuild so much easier. His instructions were very thorough and intuitive.

All together it took about 16 days for completion. What caused the delay? Getting parts. Everything was either backordered, delayed shipping or “we are not sure when this part will be back in stock” messages (Amazon, JEGS, Summit Racing).

Parts and pricing for this rebuild:

Master rebuild kit ($185.99) from Transmission bench which includes all clutches, steels, pan gaskets and all O-rings. The Ultra-kit has a ton more and includes the thumb drive for instructions.

Bushing kit $34.06 (Transmission Bench).

ACDelco transmission case (Rock Auto $348.00) Had no choice on this one. Once I got my tranny apart it was scored pretty bad inside so I opted to replace it.

Sonnax input shaft (300MM non-reluctor style) $360.00 from Summit Racing.

Sonnax Output shaft 4WD/AWD (Rock Auto) $361.00. Rock Auto actually had this the cheapest. Even out of Amazon, JEGS, Summit and others. As their prices were north of $500+ dollars.

Sonnax Smart shell $126.98 (Amazon)

Sonnax HD clutch hub (Summit Racing) $215.73

ACDelco Sun gear ($83.96)

ACDelco 5 pinion planets (maybe $200 dollars?) I got them used off of ebay almost 2 years ago when I was first thinking about doing a rebuild. I don’t remember how much I paid for them. Don’t worry I already checked them. No abnormal wiggles from the pinions.

Raybestos intermediate wide band: $18

Shift Rite Corvette servo: $63.99

Borg Warner Low/Reverse sprag $19.81

Borg Warner Forward clutch sprag $46.57





Misc: $100.00 (AKA my “Oopsies”). Seals and bushings I destroyed doing it for the first time. Input shaft seal rings I ripped. I was able to use the Teflon ring installer correctly but when I used the tool to re-shrink them back into place, I ripped two of the three Teflon rings on removal so I had to order more.

Bushing replacements was a few more “oopsies” getting them pressed in where one would get cocked in the bore of a gear going in. lessons learned.

Ok. I know some of you are already doing the math and figuring (heck for that amount of money he could get one professionally built!) And you would be right…however I don’t believe I could get it with the more exotic (Sonnax) parts included and the labor for the total cost.

Also, I seen enough nightmare stories from supposedly “built” Trannys from so called expert shops. So, I figured what the heck. Do it myself. You only live once…

And for you 4l80e guys. I understand. The 4l80 is a great transmission, but this is what I wanted. Win, lose or draw I’m happy with it.

God willing there will be more “winning” and less “losing.”

Results? So far very firm and more positive shifts (probable due to the wide band and corvette servo). Also, my clunking is gone? Every since I had my Tahoe (almost 5 years now) I always had a noticeable clunk when I placed my Tahoe into reverse (very rarely in drive) but primarily in reverse.

One thing I will mention (again for those like me who is doing for the first time) what was not touched on in the video was torque converter spacing between the converter and the flywheel. Spacing has to be between 1/8 minimum to 3/16th maximum for proper heat expansion for the torque converter and transmission pump.

Problems or issues during and after build?

The steels in the rebuild kit gave me a bit of an issue. A thickness issue, to be exact. During the video the instructor stated that the steels (for the forward clutch, if I remember) normally would be around .087 thickness. Checking my factory steels, they were in fact .087 thousandths. However, the replacement steels in the rebuild kit was actually .090. After installing both new clutch and steels I did not have the necessary endplay of .030-.065 required. I think I was around .020 or something (don’t quote me). Not feeling good about this I opted to reuse my original steels. All my original steels were fine. Nothing warped, bowed or scorched. Actually, they looked brand new So, I felt comfortable reusing them to get me back to spec.

I think the 3-4 was the same. The new ones were out of spec as well so I reused my factory steels.

Well only time will tell how good of a job I’ve done and I will keep everyone who may be interested posted. Even if it’s bad so anyone here will not make whatever mistake I made, if any.

 

[chevrol8t]

 

[chevrol8t]

I have 276 miles accumulated so far. Nothing weird yet. Doing a lot of hard acceleration today. Kept the Tahoe at around 75mph on the highway. Constantly checking fluid after each drive. Nothing smells burnt so far. Level is slightly higher passed the hash marks, no foaming or anything. I may drain a tad or just leave well enough alone. Not sure what the normal mileage is on a rebuilt tranny before it tells you, you mucked something up. I have an aftermarket trans cooler I got from e-trailers website about 4 years ago that I have been using. I might upgrade to that Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler everyone seem to swear by. We shall see...

 

[iamdub]

Great inspiration!

 

[Mudsport96]

Good job man. Lot of reading there, did you do any sort of shift kit or just go back to stock separator plate and springs? I usually do the Transgo HD2 kit whrn i do a 4l60e.

 

[chevrol8t]

Great inspiration!

Thank you!!

 

[chevrol8t]

Good job man. Lot of reading there, did you do any sort of shift kit or just go back to stock separator plate and springs? I usually do the Transgo HD2 kit whrn i do a 4l60e.

Thank you! The valve body is the rebuilt version from Sonnax. I believe it came with the updated transgo separator plate , TCC valve and Aluminum pistons. This was replaced about two years ago.. Even before the rebuild that felt a world of difference.

https://www.amazon.com/Shift-Rite-Transmissions-replacement-Valvebody/dp/B00STN8L06/ref=sr_1_1?crid=H599EEXTPAXB&keywords=4l60e+valve+body&qid=1649981571&s=automotive&sprefix=4l60e+vlave+%2Cautomotive%2C131&sr=1-1

other than the upgraded "known wear" parts there is not shift kit in it. I thought about it though and may still do it. I wanted to keep certain parts stock which would make it easier for me to troubleshoot in case I ran into trouble without me wondering was it me or the shift kit.

 

[iamdub]

Thank you! The valve body is the rebuilt version from Sonnax. I believe it came with the updated transgo separator plate , TCC valve and Aluminum pistons. This was replaced about two years ago.. Even before the rebuild that felt a world of difference.

https://www.amazon.com/Shift-Rite-Transmissions-replacement-Valvebody/dp/B00STN8L06/ref=sr_1_1?crid=H599EEXTPAXB&keywords=4l60e+valve+body&qid=1649981571&s=automotive&sprefix=4l60e+vlave+%2Cautomotive%2C131&sr=1-1

other than the upgraded "known wear" parts there is not shift kit in it. I thought about it though and may still do it. I wanted to keep certain parts stock which would make it easier for me to troubleshoot in case I ran into trouble without me wondering was it me or the shift kit.

I've been slowly collecting items to rebuild one for mine. I have a trans (which I later found was actually a Gen3 version- but, whatever), a few specialty tools and a walk-through video. Another member has rebuilt a few following that vid and gave me some pointers and parts lists. Seeing another member successfully do it builds confidence. I don't recall if he did anything with the valve body, so I'll see if this is something I should add to the list or get the parts and do myself. Shoestring budget here. But, a pre-built valve body might be worth the cost to save the labor.

@pwtr02ss

 

[pwtr02ss]

I've been slowly collecting items to rebuild one for mine. I have a trans (which I later found was actually a Gen3 version- but, whatever), a few specialty tools and a walk-through video. Another member has rebuilt a few following that vid and gave me some pointers and parts lists. Seeing another member successfully do it builds confidence. I don't recall if he did anything with the valve body, so I'll see if this is something I should add to the list or get the parts and do myself. Shoestring budget here. But, a pre-built valve body might be worth the cost to save the labor.

@pwtr02ss

I've not done any upgrades to the valve body really. I do the latest updated valve body separator plate and then do the sonnax accumulators. Pinless preferably. Main list of upgrades is the sonnax smart shell, new gm drum, wide band, stick with the standard 3/4 borg (high energy) frictions. Most rebuild kits include those as standard. Stay away from the zpak or any 3/4 stacks that add more frictions than 6. Pinless accumulators in all locations, corvette servo.

If you have any questions, I'll try my best to help @chevrol8t

I'm chilling on vacation so I didn't read the thread. I'll try to do that in the morning

 

[chevrol8t]

I've been slowly collecting items to rebuild one for mine. I have a trans (which I later found was actually a Gen3 version- but, whatever), a few specialty tools and a walk-through video. Another member has rebuilt a few following that vid and gave me some pointers and parts lists. Seeing another member successfully do it builds confidence. I don't recall if he did anything with the valve body, so I'll see if this is something I should add to the list or get the parts and do myself. Shoestring budget here. But, a pre-built valve body might be worth the cost to save the labor.

@pwtr02ss
[/QUOTE]

I've not done any upgrades to the valve body really. I do the latest updated valve body separator plate and then do the sonnax accumulators. Pinless preferably. Main list of upgrades is the sonnax smart shell, new gm drum, wide band, stick with the standard 3/4 borg (high energy) frictions. Most rebuild kits include those as standard. Stay away from the zpak or any 3/4 stacks that add more frictions than 6. Pinless accumulators in all locations, corvette servo.

If you have any questions, I'll try my best to help @chevrol8t

I'm chilling on vacation so I didn't read the thread. I'll try to do that in the morning

I've heard a lot of conflicting stories in regards to the Z-Pak. Some like it and some did not. like you I decided to go with the 6 high energy frictions. A website called "RigidAxle" sell rebuild kits and for their 4l60e kits they switched from the Zpak to Alto red eagle frictions stating that they had better customer luck with those.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I've heard a lot of conflicting stories in regards to the Z-Pak. Some like it and some did not. like you I decided to go with the 6 high energy frictions. A website called "RigidAxle" sell rebuild kits and for their 4l60e kits they switched from the Zpak to Alto red eagle frictions stating that they had better customer luck with those.

Zpak works great in applications that are not heavy or doing towing. I have a zpak in my Camaro. It's great for that. The issue with them is you lose material thickness to gain the extra stacks. That doesn't do well when you combine heat. The steels warp much quicker. Warped steels equals uneven clamping area.

During my research in the past, I've yet to hear much good about alto (3/4 pack) frictions. I say that but I've never used them. @Just Fishing mentioned that he had good luck so that's one person that I know of personally. I do always buy the red stuff band and I think it may be made by alto. I just thought if that as I was typing. So maybe they aren't as bad I had read, lol. I prefer borg frictions. Side by side with Raybestos, the Borgs held fluid better. My own testing btw

 

[chevrol8t]

Zpak works great in applications that are not heavy or doing towing. I have a zpak in my Camaro. It's great for that. The issue with them is you lose material thickness to gain the extra stacks. That doesn't do well when you combine heat. The steels warp much quicker. Warped steels equals uneven clamping area.

During my research in the past, I've yet to hear much good about alto (3/4 pack) frictions. I say that but I've never used them. @Just Fishing mentioned that he had good luck so that's one person that I know of personally. I do always buy the red stuff band and I think it may be made by alto. I just thought if that as I was typing. So maybe they aren't as bad I had read, lol. I prefer borg frictions. Side by side with Raybestos, the Borgs held fluid better. My own testing btw

Understood. I went with Raybestos only because it was part of the rebuild kit through transmission bench hopefully I will get a long life out of them. I don't drive crazy, but I'm not light on the throttle either. I have no qualms about having the pedal meet the floor at times. I'm really enjoying this info it will help in the future!

 

[pwtr02ss]

Understood. I went with Raybestos only because it was part of the rebuild kit through transmission bench hopefully I will get a long life out of them. I don't drive crazy, but I'm not light on the throttle either. I have no qualms about having the pedal meet the floor at times. I'm really enjoying this info it will help in the future!

I have raybestos frictions in my avalanche. Nothing wrong with them at all. They are both excellent

 

[pwtr02ss]

Ok, read the thread from the start. Didn't realize last night that it was already together. Sounds like you covered all the bases very well. IMO, you've got a solid transmission and congratulations on the successful build! I personally feel that if they work out of the gate, they will keep working.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

Nice job! Great satisfaction and learning doing stuff like this on your own.

 

[Timbers68]

Hat's off to you OP for tackling a 4 speed autotrans. Are you an engineer?
Since it's already together and running down the road (congratulations) I'll only comment a couple of things.

Personally I've never used a Zpak since the ones I've seen are putting many thin frictions in place of OE. The ones I have seen have been smoked on tear down. I have not had good luck with long term durability of any Red Alto frictions except Dodge Diesels Autos 46/47/48re. The only reason I used them is because the shop owner liked them. Alto makes some nice red bands for Dodges and they used to make some high energy friction for different units.

Every 700-r4/4L60e I build gets (7) .080" high energy borg warner 3/4 friction with .078" steels. IMO the trick is to get the 3/4 clearance right and not use friction or steels that are too thin (.060"ish) because they can't take the heat. Never used the wide bands on 60/60e's because I've never had a stock width high energy fail. Band disclaimer- not built one of these that was behind much more than 600hp. Using 6 friction with .100" steels is good to go.

I do know that just because I haven't had good luck with a product doesn't mean there's not 50 guys saying the opposite. My .02c

OP, don't through out your case. From the picture I believe you were worried about the indentations that the lo/reverse steels made. Most likely you can clean that up so that the steels won't catch on an edge and use it or sell it.

 

[chevrol8t]

Hat's off to you OP for tackling a 4 speed autotrans. Are you an engineer?
Since it's already together and running down the road (congratulations) I'll only comment a couple of things.

Personally I've never used a Zpak since the ones I've seen are putting many thin frictions in place of OE. The ones I have seen have been smoked on tear down. I have not had good luck with long term durability of any Red Alto frictions except Dodge Diesels Autos 46/47/48re. The only reason I used them is because the shop owner liked them. Alto makes some nice red bands for Dodges and they used to make some high energy friction for different units.

Every 700-r4/4L60e I build gets (7) .080" high energy borg warner 3/4 friction with .078" steels. IMO the trick is to get the 3/4 clearance right and not use friction or steels that are too thin (.060"ish) because they can't take the heat. Never used the wide bands on 60/60e's because I've never had a stock width high energy fail. Band disclaimer- not built one of these that was behind much more than 600hp. Using 6 friction with .100" steels is good to go.

I do know that just because I haven't had good luck with a product doesn't mean there's not 50 guys saying the opposite. My .02c

OP, don't through out your case. From the picture I believe you were worried about the indentations that the lo/reverse steels made. Most likely you can clean that up so that the steels won't catch on an edge and use it or sell it.

Thank you! No actually I'm not an engineer. Just good with my hands. I always loved cars and quickly learned how to maintenance my own vehicles back in the day. Also thank you for your input in regards to your experience with clutches. I opted for Raybestos replacement in my build but did consider the others you mentioned. Yup. Still have the case. She'll stick with me!

 

[chevrol8t]

Nice job! Great satisfaction and learning doing stuff like this on your own.

Thank you! This is a first and I would be lying if I said I was not worried! Glad so far it's working out!

 

[Timbers68]

Thank you! No actually I'm not an engineer. Just good with my hands. I always loved cars and quickly learned how to maintenance my own vehicles back in the day. Also thank you for your input in regards to your experience with clutches. I opted for Raybestos replacement in my build but did consider the others you mentioned. Yup. Still have the case. She'll stick with me!

Raybestos are a great factory replacement clutch too, great choice. I use them regularly.

 

[chevrol8t]

Update: Been driving the Tahoe getting more and more miles under her belt. So far, no issues but I did notice something when I starting getting a lot more aggressive in my acceleration.

I am getting a low vibration when I floor it. It’s a low vibration that increases with speed. The best way to describe it would be like driving on rumble strips but very, very muffled. Normal driving, I don’t feel anything, cruising…nothing but as soon as I mash the accelerator to the floor, I can feel that odd low vibration, like something is out of balance?

A few things to note that after I replaced my transmission, I did replace the torque converter so it’s not factory. It’s a TORCO GM 12.5 300mm reman. Also, I did not change the flex plate. Still the factory 22-year-old flex plate. After popping the inspection plate on the transmission and letting her idle, I did notice a very visible “wobble” during rotation of the flex plate I figure maybe the old flex plate might be the issue Or the replacement converter is not balance correctly?

Not a tranny expert so this is all my speculation. With that said a few things I can confirm;

• Transmission is still shifting great.
• No performance issues…none. No slipping, surging, hesitation. No red flags or concerns (other than the low vibration during hard acceleration).
• No overheating.

Will keep you all posted. personally I don't think it's anything to be concerned about at the moment.