Towing Travel Trailer

[Bob2C]

Going to be towing a 30ft travel trail in the next few weeks with my 2018 Tahoe 5.3. I have the max tow package (NHT) so I know the vehicle can handle it. I’m going through the mountains. Should I use tow/haul mode the whole time? Any info from experienced people who tow would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wjburken]

Going to be towing a 30ft travel trail in the next few weeks with my 2018 Tahoe 5.3. I have the max tow package (NHT) so I know the vehicle can handle it. I’m going through the mountains. Should I use tow/haul mode the whole time? Any info from experienced people who tow would be greatly appreciated.

A 30ft trailer behind a Tahoe would be a little too nerve racking for me with the short wheelbase. How much weight are you talking about? Do you have a weight distributing hitch with sway bars? I think using Tow/Haul is a no brainer.

 

[007matman]

Tow/haul is a no-brainer.

What's the trailer weigh? I assume you have empty weights there. What's the max payload?

WD hitch? Which one?


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[Michaelt]

Can't recommend load equalizers more. I towed a 29' with my 5.3 Yukon. It handled pretty well, but only with equalizers on. It was a light 29' at 5k lbs. Never pulled out of Fla so I don't know how the hills might impact your pulling. Good brakes and elec trailer brakes are important towing factors. Be safe.

I believe my Yukon actually goes back into high gear, if not under load, while in tow mode. Not a tech, so I could be wrong. But I watched the tach and it went down to the same level as without tow mode when not under load.

 

[Bob2C]

Dry weight 5479

Gross weight 7764

I will be using anti-sway bars as well


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[007matman]

Technically, you're probably in spec. I would check what your actual loaded weights are at a CAT scale. Dry weight is very deceiving. Depending on the manufacturer and dealer added features, that weight could be off by 1000 lbs or more (yes, I have some experience here).

A SWB vehicle is not an ideal tow rig. You'd be better off with a Suburban or Yukon XL. I would see what brand of WD hitch you have there is. If it's one of the older chain snap-up units w/an adjustable friction bar I'd ditch it in a heartbeat. What you need is a Trunnion-style hitch like the Equal-i-zer or Fastway E2. Another good option is the Andersen hitch.

You'll need a brake controller. I really liked the Tekonsha P3. It's a digital proportional unit and is one of the best ones out there.

I have a 2010 Esky ESV and don't tow with it any longer. You've got a newer generation truck there and a slightly lower (probably) tow weight. I never had issues with sway but I also had the longer wheelbase and the Fastway E2 flat bar trunnion hitch. The truck would pull the camper just fine. What made me stop towing with it was the constant fixing of suspension, transmission, engine mounts, and the constant fear of running too hot and blowing something up. These trucks are not an ideal tow vehicle. If you're going to be towing regularly and at long distances I'd look at a 3/4 ton truck.

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[Bob2C]

Technically, you're probably in spec. I would check what your actual loaded weights are at a CAT scale. Dry weight is very deceiving. Depending on the manufacturer and dealer added features, that weight could be off by 1000 lbs or more (yes, I have some experience here).

A SWB vehicle is not an ideal tow rig. You'd be better off with a Suburban or Yukon XL. I would see what brand of WD hitch you have there is. If it's one of the older chain snap-up units w/an adjustable friction bar I'd ditch it in a heartbeat. What you need is a Trunnion-style hitch like the Equal-i-zer or Fastway E2. Another good option is the Andersen hitch.

You'll need a brake controller. I really liked the Tekonsha P3. It's a digital proportional unit and is one of the best ones out there.

I have a 2010 Esky ESV and don't tow with it any longer. You've got a newer generation truck there and a slightly lower (probably) tow weight. I never had issues with sway but I also had the longer wheelbase and the Fastway E2 flat bar trunnion hitch. The truck would pull the camper just fine. What made me stop towing with it was the constant fixing of suspension, transmission, engine mounts, and the constant fear of running too hot and blowing something up. These trucks are not an ideal tow vehicle. If you're going to be towing regularly and at long distances I'd look at a 3/4 ton truck.

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The hitch I will be using will be a fast way E2 hitch. My truck has load leveling rear suspension and factory brake controller. Yeah ideally the burb would be better but I wouldn’t be towing on a regular basis. Maybe once a year if that. According to the manual the max towing weight for this vehicle is around 8500lbs. When towing am I correct to assume transmission temps will be above 200?


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[bigdog9191999]

your temps will probably get over 200 but be careful to not get it too hot as that can damage it . you will be at capacity for the truck and probably be a white knuckle in the mountains and it probably wont be awful happy, trans cooler and brake controller, along with that hitch are almost necessity but above all, pay attention and and be safe

 

[007matman]

Heck. Both my new and my old trans would normally be around 200 even without a load on it. When pulling it was normally in the 220-230 range until I added the Tru-Cool 40k in place of the OEM cooler. Now the highest I've seen (even when I was still pulling with it) is about 175.

I did the upgrade myself for under $200.

I'd say it's a must as well.

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[Bob2C]

So am I reading this correctly? 1k tongue weight, 10k max trailer weight

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[007matman]

That's the hitch rating. NOT the vehicle rating.

Trailer Life puts out a guide that's often referred to as the Bible for towing. What year do you have?

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[Bob2C]

That's the hitch rating. NOT the vehicle rating.

Trailer Life puts out a guide that's often referred to as the Bible for towing. What year do you have?

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2018


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[007matman]

Here you go..

http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2017.pdf

You bought a trailer to use it once a year (if that)?

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[Bob2C]

Here you go..

http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2017.pdf

You bought a trailer to use it once a year (if that)?

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Nooooo. Going to rent a travel trailer and take the family on vacation.


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[007matman]

Aah..

Then in that case a couple of additional tips.

Don't rely on someone else to set up your hitch properly. Each vehicle/trailer combination will be unique. Best thing you can to is completely disassemble the hitch and pull out the hitch manual each time and start from the beginning with your hitch, trailer, and vehicle measurements. The E2 is a great hitch. However, if it's not setup properly you'll hate it. I've seen multiple set up by dealers that were not set up correctly. If it were me I'd do it myself to ensure its done right.

When towing and the trailer starts to sway: DO NOT HIT THE VEHICLE BRAKES! Remove your foot from the go pedal and lightly and gradually apply the trailer brakes using the lever. Depending on how severe the sway is, you may need to exert more force but go light.. it doesn't take much.

I went through two sets of brand new air ride shocks in the year I used the Esky to pull the camper. Hitch setup is critical to avoiding this. Shocks are considered a wear item and from the stealership they're about $500 each + labor. You can save a lot of money if you need to replace one by DIY. It is not a difficult thing to do. The same shocks are available on Amazon for half the price of the dealer.

I have not looked at the newer generation dash, but in my Esky, it's full of warning lights and needle guages with no reference numbers. Buy yourself an OBD 2 reader and download the Torque Pro app for your phone. With that, you can easily monitor your real-time vehicle info like engine temp, tranny temp, etc.

Towing a 30' sail is not the same as pulling a 19' cargo trailer or boat. Keep the speed down until you completely understand what it's like to tow something this big. Gas mileage will be cut in less than half of normal. You can absolutely plan on that. Coming back from Sarasota a few years ago, I was stopping every two hours to fill up. I would limit yourself to 55-60 until you get the hang of it. Even with my Dually now I hardly ever exceed 70 while towing. Maybe just a short burst to pass someone. RV tires are notorious for blowouts and most are not rated for anything over 65 anyway.

I'll think of more. I hope this is helpful.



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[Bob2C]

Aah..

Then in that case a couple of additional tips.

Don't rely on someone else to set up your hitch properly. Each vehicle/trailer combination will be unique. Best thing you can to is completely disassemble the hitch and pull out the hitch manual each time and start from the beginning with your hitch, trailer, and vehicle measurements. The E2 is a great hitch. However, if it's not setup properly you'll hate it. I've seen multiple set up by dealers that were not set up correctly. If it were me I'd do it myself to ensure its done right.

When towing and the trailer starts to sway: DO NOT HIT THE VEHICLE BRAKES! Remove your foot from the go pedal and lightly and gradually apply the trailer brakes using the lever. Depending on how severe the sway is, you may need to exert more force but go light.. it doesn't take much.

I went through two sets of brand new air ride shocks in the year I used the Esky to pull the camper. Hitch setup is critical to avoiding this. Shocks are considered a wear item and from the stealership they're about $500 each + labor. You can save a lot of money if you need to replace one by DIY. It is not a difficult thing to do. The same shocks are available on Amazon for half the price of the dealer.

I have not looked at the newer generation dash, but in my Esky, it's full of warning lights and needle guages with no reference numbers. Buy yourself an OBD 2 reader and download the Torque Pro app for your phone. With that, you can easily monitor your real-time vehicle info like engine temp, tranny temp, etc.

Towing a 30' sail is not the same as pulling a 19' cargo trailer or boat. Keep the speed down until you completely understand what it's like to tow something this big. Gas mileage will be cut in less than half of normal. You can absolutely plan on that. Coming back from Sarasota a few years ago, I was stopping every two hours to fill up. I would limit yourself to 55-60 until you get the hang of it. Even with my Dually now I hardly ever exceed 70 while towing. Maybe just a short burst to pass someone. RV tires are notorious for blowouts and most are not rated for anything over 65 anyway.

I'll think of more. I hope this is helpful.



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This great info!!! Really appreciate it. I saw this in the manual as well. Have you had any experience with this system? I’m curious on if it does what it says.

Trailer Sway Control (TSC)

Vehicles with StabiliTrak have a Trailer Sway Control (TSC) feature. Trailer sway is unintended side-to-side motion of a trailer while being towed. If the vehicle is towing a trailer and the TSC detects that sway is increasing, the vehicle brakes are selectively applied at each wheel, to help reduce excessive trailer sway. If the vehicle is equipped with the Integrated Trailer Brake Control (ITBC) system, and the trailer has the electric actuated brake system, StabiliTrak may also apply the trailer brakes.

If TSC is enabled, the Traction Control System (TCS)/StabiliTrak warning light will flash on the instrument cluster. Vehicle speed must be reduced. If trailer sway continues, StabiliTrak can reduce engine torque to help slow the vehicle. See Traction Control/Electronic Stability Control .


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[007matman]

This great info!!! Really appreciate it. I saw this in the manual as well. Have you had any experience with this system? I’m curious on if it does what it says.

Trailer Sway Control (TSC)

Vehicles with StabiliTrak have a Trailer Sway Control (TSC) feature. Trailer sway is unintended side-to-side motion of a trailer while being towed. If the vehicle is towing a trailer and the TSC detects that sway is increasing, the vehicle brakes are selectively applied at each wheel, to help reduce excessive trailer sway. If the vehicle is equipped with the Integrated Trailer Brake Control (ITBC) system, and the trailer has the electric actuated brake system, StabiliTrak may also apply the trailer brakes.

If TSC is enabled, the Traction Control System (TCS)/StabiliTrak warning light will flash on the instrument cluster. Vehicle speed must be reduced. If trailer sway continues, StabiliTrak can reduce engine torque to help slow the vehicle. See Traction Control/Electronic Stability Control .


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If you were hauling a small cargo trailer I'd say yes, it may help. However, to stop sway on a large camper in my book, vehicle brakes should never be applied.

I was hauling a 6x10 U-haul a couple of months ago and I was wishing for my trailer brakes and controller. The ride was horrible and the trailer was all over the road.

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[007matman]

Tires.

Inflate to maximum sidewall pressure on the rear tires for sure.

Passenger tires are squishy and the PSI indicated on the door jamb are for normal city/highway driving and not pulling a load.

I didn't do this in the beginning so now I have two tires that have rounded sidewall edges.

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[Bob2C]

Thanks for all the info. I knew I could get some really good tips here from everyone. Much appreciated

 

[Tiredmechanic23]

ill add my 2 cents as someone who has towed a travel trailer for years when working pipeline. Sway hitch will help a ton. The vehicle can do it fine and trans temps will exceed 200 but if it starts to get overly hot it will warn you.

Use your display to watch the temps if it helps you feel comfortable. In the mountains when downhill be gentle on any brakes used since the trailer will be pushing at that point you can create a sway condition. I usually coast down hill and if it gets a bit pushy or quick I lightly apply the trailer brakes manually.

properly set tongue weight. It makes a huge difference in how things will handle. Also do not over inflate the tires. Once loaded you can chalk the tires and drive a few feet and see your tread pattern. You want full contact but not eating the sidewall edges.

For the earlier question on the TSC and stabilitrack, basically the vehicle will individually brake each wheel as needed to counter the sway while also applying trailer brakes if it feels need to do so to help. Its a huge help but it has limitations a wildly swaying trailer can still get away from it. The big thing is besides how you brake with sway is keeping your steering pointed to where you want to be. Keep the wheel straight do not try to counter steer it you will just exaggerate the sway.

Last travel trailer I pulled was with my 2016 LS Tahoe. It was a 28 footer and old. I was near capacity and pulled it about 250 miles. It pulled fantastic. Ive pulled a much lighter trailer though that would not distribute well and it pulled like crap. And currently I often pull a mini excavator home from work as im doing some clearing and it pulls great. Every trailer is different and you may have to stop and adjust a time or 2 to feel comfortable and that is OK.

Also use tow mode for sure. Tow mode uses a different set of tables and makes a difference in keeping within the power band when getting going down the road. A longer wheelbase would be more stable and ideal for sure but with proper setup and learning the rig the smaller wheelbase can do it.