Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

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Tonyrodz

Tonyrodz

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I plugged in my scanner while idling. I don't really know what I'm looking at.
Anyone know if it's good or bad?
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Sam Harris

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I don’t know shit about tuning, but I think your short - and long term fuel trims look like off. They should be pretty close to 0, or very low numbers AFAIK.

It does look like it’s not pulling timing, but I’m assuming you grabbed that while sitting there idling..?
 

kbuskill

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How many miles have you driven it, not towed it, since you got it back?

The reason I ask is because if the ECM was reset, it takes about 100-150 miles of driving for your fuel trims to settle in.
 
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Tonyrodz

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I don’t know shit about tuning, but I think your short - and long term fuel trims look like off. They should be pretty close to 0, or very low numbers AFAIK.

It does look like it’s not pulling timing, but I’m assuming you grabbed that while sitting there idling..?
Yeah, I was sitting idling.
Its pulling fuel on the ltft from where the tune is telling it to run.

The stft will usually bounce around 0
Is that good or bad? I can hear some strange low erratic popping kind of noise. It's hard to describe. I hear it a little better when I put down the passenger rear window. I tried to record it but you can't hear it on video. It gets up and goes when I romp it tho. I THINK i've heard sporadic pops from the exhaust. Almost like a low backfire noise, but not as loud as a backfire would be. I just hope there's not a problem with this motor.
 
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Tonyrodz

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-12 and -8 is quite a bit of fuel being pulled your tune is still a little rich on the bottom end I bet it smells rich idling
Even with the old motor, its always smelled rich. Somewhat normal with it. Also it has no cats, which doesn't help.
How many miles have you driven it, not towed it, since you got it back?

The reason I ask is because if the ECM was reset, it takes about 100-150 miles of driving for your fuel trims to settle in.
Def less then 100 miles since I've gotten it back.
 

Sam Harris

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Even with the old motor, its always smelled rich. Somewhat normal with it. Also it has no cats, which doesn't help.

Def less then 100 miles since I've gotten it back.
Man, you need a tuner to look at this. I forgot, which do you have? find your AutoCal yet Tony....?
 
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Tonyrodz

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Man, you need a tuner to look at this. I forgot, which do you have? find your AutoCal yet Tony....?
It was originally tuned by the place who did the 1st motor originally, back in 2017. That's why I went with the exact same cam with this motor. I still haven't found that damn Autocal. I think it fell into that bottomless pit where everything goes that you can't find :mad::mad::mad:
at idle a cam will run rich, drive around and see where the ltft go at cruise speed.
I def will get that in a few days. Thx @Scottydoggs.
 
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Tonyrodz

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The popping could just be your catless exhaust setup. The LTFT are definitely off alot, but at idle isn't the issue we need to see that on some WOT! So go ahead grow a third arm so you can steer, hold the scanner, and take pics.
I'll get it as soon as I can. I've never heard that popping before.
 

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The popping could just be your catless exhaust setup. The LTFT are definitely off alot, but at idle isn't the issue we need to see that on some WOT! So go ahead grow a third arm so you can steer, hold the scanner, and take pics.

the ltft are far from anything worth looking at wot. they actually lock in at what they were just before entering PE mode. it then runs off the PE "power enrichment" afr.

tony, if you can scan commanded air flow on the scanner there idle and cruise should show 14.7, wot will likely drop to 12's. thats what pcm is commanding, but whats actually coming out the tail pipe read by a wideband could be way off, or dead on to whats commanded due to it being maf tuned already.

this is why you need a wideband to know what the true AFR is when wot tuning.
 
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Tonyrodz

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the ltft are far from anything worth looking at wot. they actually lock in at what they were just before entering PE mode. it then runs off the PE "power enrichment" afr.

tony, if you can scan commanded air flow on the scanner there idle and cruise should show 14.7, wot will likely drop to 12's. thats what pcm is commanding, but whats actually coming out the tail pipe read by a wideband could be way off, or dead on to whats commanded due to it being maf tuned already.

this is why you need a wideband to know what the true AFR is when wot tuning.
I think I can record Luve Data with the scanner I have. Would that help? Would I need to record while driving it? Or would idle be fine? Thx for any help Scotty.
 

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I believe we all think you should get in there and find that autocal!! And you should do the recording while driving is what the consensus seems to be. Guessing idling doesn’t give the info needed. Just from what I’ve read...


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Tonyrodz

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I believe we all think you should get in there and find that autocal!! And you should do the recording while driving is what the consensus seems to be. Guessing idling doesn’t give the info needed. Just from what I’ve read...


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I've tried to find that damn Autocal--no luck so far :mad::(
 

Sam Harris

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Definitely need driving data. Though I’m not sure how much WOT you should be doing with the issues you’re having, I think that will be the most beneficial.
 

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