Charlie207
Full Access Member
And as much as I want it, I have no place to store it and rebuild it. Or, swap it out with my 5.3....
sadpandaface.jif
sadpandaface.jif
There's a 2008 6.0L from a 2500 available for $800 near me...
- Thread starter Charlie207
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strutaeng
Full Access Member
What?! Buy it!
LY6 or L96 IIRC. That's what everyone wants for their swap! Figure out the "why, when, how" later, LoL
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Charlie207
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Based on the year and truck model it's an LY6. Ad says it was running, but no other info which is a little offputting.
Dang. That's a killer price. I paid $2500 with shipping from IL for my junker LY6 (08 2500). It came from a junkyard that "tested" it. Tore it down to the short block and sent the heads to a machine shop. Been great for two years so far. You end up reaching out to the seller?
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Charlie207
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I did, and got it for $600 because no one else wanted it: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/budget-rebuild-items.147334/
I'm new to this engine swap/refresh/rebuild thing, but was told by some folks that if the cam bearing looked good to just go from there, and leave the bottom end alone. The cam bearings look bad.
Next step is to pick out upgrade cam and valve springs to include with the heads when they go to the shop to be cleaned up. But, let me ask you, would you leave the bottom end all together when the block eventually goes to the machine shop to be hot-washed (it's gross... pealing paint, rust, tons of gunk)? Or, would you disassemble everything, label it, and send it with the block? I just want it cleaned up to reassemble.
If you are far enough into to see cam bearings, then you might as well drop the pan and see what is lurking below. It’s only money and time.
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Charlie207
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I did pull the oil pan and windage tray. There was some sludgey goo on the bottom of the pan, near the drain plug.
Then, pop off a bearing cap or two and post up the pics
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Charlie207
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Main or rod?
Both.
petethepug
Michael
Oh the good days when a pre love LY6 can b had for $600!
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
He even threw in the starter.... cleaned it up and tested it at the Toyota dealership it was stored at.
I just wish I wasn't so happy about the $600 aspect, and asked about the ECU.. He's looking for it now, but my hopes are usually pre-dashed for situations like this.
tooleyondeck
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it just makes the swap that much simpler
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
What tuner did you go with?
Looking at your signature I see you have an LY6 swap w/the LMG 5.3 injectors.
I already have a BlackBear tune, and I imagine they could send me a canned tune to get the LY6 started/running, but it would be nice to have the 6.0 ECU on hand anyways. I haven't heard from the seller in a couple days, so I doubt that'll happen.
Why did you delete the VVT? I was planning on keeping it, but need to do some more reading.
How do you like your cam choice? I'm leaning towards that Truck Norris cam, but it's actually out-of-stock at BTR. What valvesprings and pushrods did you go with?
I went with HP tuners, had a friend help get it to start (startup air) and then took it too a dyno shop (still debating whether or not I wasted money on that). If you have the time, you can do it yourself with HP tuners (their forum is good resource). Patience is needed for something like this swap using the 5.3 computer. There are some differences between 6.0 and 5.3 tunes, beyond just AFM and VVT. It's important that whoever does the tune is at least aware of some of these differences. For example, 3 people looked at my tune and no one pick up that the intake manifold volume value was for a 5.3 and not a 6.0 (cathedral port vs rec port). This one item threw off prediction calcs made by the ECU. Main affect was with brake pedal feel. I'm still making adjustments and comparing stock tunes.
My LY6 is from a junkyard and I knew at a minimum I would take it down to the short block. At that point, just cam swap it. Didn't care to **** around with VVT.
Overall I like it. Initially no strictly because of the tune. With a 4x4, auto and a K&N (now gone) I'm 300 & 300 at the rear wheels with 87. There's definitely more there, but it's a lot of fun in the dirt right now and so I'd rather put money into the suspension, etc.
I just purchased the cam kit through BTR which included springs. I didn't opt for pushrods. Their gasket kit has everything too, save for I think valve cover grommets. Overall very easy with everything I purchased through them.
One thing to note is the injectors. I used the ones from my 5.3 because they flow more. Check out onallcylinders.com
My LY6 is from a junkyard and I knew at a minimum I would take it down to the short block. At that point, just cam swap it. Didn't care to **** around with VVT.
Overall I like it. Initially no strictly because of the tune. With a 4x4, auto and a K&N (now gone) I'm 300 & 300 at the rear wheels with 87. There's definitely more there, but it's a lot of fun in the dirt right now and so I'd rather put money into the suspension, etc.
I just purchased the cam kit through BTR which included springs. I didn't opt for pushrods. Their gasket kit has everything too, save for I think valve cover grommets. Overall very easy with everything I purchased through them.
One thing to note is the injectors. I used the ones from my 5.3 because they flow more. Check out onallcylinders.com
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
I currently have a BBP tune for the 5.3 in my Yukon now, so I'll try to stick with that for continuity.
I just ordered a Truck Norris cam, and will be deleting the VVT from my LY6. Even though the factory LY6 valve springs are allegedly good enough for the cam, I'm going to replace those as well. It's been a crash course learning about all this stuff, but it's been fun.
I guess the LY6 is the one to get, if you can... it's basically a 6.0 LS3 with an iron block and taller intake manifold (that flows the same as an LS3 intake).
My concern is also for how the brakes will feel after, but that's a problem for future me.
You're on your way, my friend! Get it!!!
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