There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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Sorry for the lack of pics but I wanted to get the job done asap. I did valve cover gaskets, battery service and wiper blades today on a 2008 4Runner 4.0. Pretty straight forward and not too bad to do except for one thing. At the back of the upper intake plenum, in front of firewall, there is a support clip that is attached with a 10mm head bolt and there is a hose and clip and a wire loom that attach at this clip, above and below. It is a real PITA to get in there to remove the bolt to release the clip, plus reattach the clip when reassemble. The rest is not bad. Lots more components to remove on the d/s. All the work took me 3.5 hours. The owner is the manager at my favorite taco Tuesday and taco Thursday bar. Have been going in there for over 12 years. By the way, 125k miles and in great shape, thanks to me.
 
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My girl's 2002 TrailBlazer story for today:

My girl was on her way to Wa. this morning and got about 30 minutes away and experienced the CEL flashed 3 times and then stayed out and could hear a very dull pop top noise in engine compartment. She called and headed home. Off she goes in her 1990 K2500 ext cab pickup with 130k miles.

The TB has 75k miles on it. I checked for code(s) and got P0300. I drove it and experienced no problems. Plugs only about 3k miles old and I removed them and they looked like new and so did the OE ignition coils and boots-that were done when I did the plugs. Before that I tapped in at the fuel filter and found good fuel pressure at 54 psi running and throttling. When I had done the plugs, I had replaced the fuel filter and did replace the fuel pressure regulator when I noticed a leak.

Ok, I know I have a problem that is effecting more than one cylinder. I did some research and found that a known weak spot is the VVT solenoid. My shop owner friend allows me to buy parts on his account at a local wholesale warehouse. I wanted a Genuine GM solenoid, 12615873, but was not available. I bought a Standard Motor Parts VVT102 for just under $38 and over the years I have had decent results with Standard. Unbolted the P/S pump and flopped out of the way and changed the solenoid. Reassembled all components and it fired right up. I had already cleared the P0300 code. I went to live info on my scanner and all looked good and drove it slow in neighborhood, 35-40 on major side streets and at 60-65 on the highway and romped on it hard a couple times and am still impressed with that 4.2 engine power. No code(s) came back and will be driving it more while my girl is gone for a couple days.

Almost forgot. I plan on cleaning the MAF sensor tomorrow and inspecting the MAP sensor.

So, knowing all this and what I did, what are thoughts of the members here? Thanks in advance for input.
 

homesick

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My girl's 2002 TrailBlazer story for today:

My girl was on her way to Wa. this morning and got about 30 minutes away and experienced the CEL flashed 3 times and then stayed out and could hear a very dull pop top noise in engine compartment. She called and headed home. Off she goes in her 1990 K2500 ext cab pickup with 130k miles.

The TB has 75k miles on it. I checked for code(s) and got P0300. I drove it and experienced no problems. Plugs only about 3k miles old and I removed them and they looked like new and so did the OE ignition coils and boots-that were done when I did the plugs. Before that I tapped in at the fuel filter and found good fuel pressure at 54 psi running and throttling. When I had done the plugs, I had replaced the fuel filter and did replace the fuel pressure regulator when I noticed a leak.

Ok, I know I have a problem that is effecting more than one cylinder. I did some research and found that a known weak spot is the VVT solenoid. My shop owner friend allows me to buy parts on his account at a local wholesale warehouse. I wanted a Genuine GM solenoid, 12615873, but was not available. I bought a Standard Motor Parts VVT102 for just under $38 and over the years I have had decent results with Standard. Unbolted the P/S pump and flopped out of the way and changed the solenoid. Reassembled all components and it fired right up. I had already cleared the P0300 code. I went to live info on my scanner and all looked good and drove it slow in neighborhood, 35-40 on major side streets and at 60-65 on the highway and romped on it hard a couple times and am still impressed with that 4.2 engine power. No code(s) came back and will be driving it more while my girl is gone for a couple days.

Almost forgot. I plan on cleaning the MAF sensor tomorrow and inspecting the MAP sensor.

So, knowing all this and what I did, what are thoughts of the members here? Thanks in advance for input.
I have questions on this subject, on my '07 Escalade [6.2].

Do you mind? And, if not, should I ask here or start a thread?

joe
 

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My girl's 2002 TrailBlazer story for today:

My girl was on her way to Wa. this morning and got about 30 minutes away and experienced the CEL flashed 3 times and then stayed out and could hear a very dull pop top noise in engine compartment. She called and headed home. Off she goes in her 1990 K2500 ext cab pickup with 130k miles.

The TB has 75k miles on it. I checked for code(s) and got P0300. I drove it and experienced no problems. Plugs only about 3k miles old and I removed them and they looked like new and so did the OE ignition coils and boots-that were done when I did the plugs. Before that I tapped in at the fuel filter and found good fuel pressure at 54 psi running and throttling. When I had done the plugs, I had replaced the fuel filter and did replace the fuel pressure regulator when I noticed a leak.

Ok, I know I have a problem that is effecting more than one cylinder. I did some research and found that a known weak spot is the VVT solenoid. My shop owner friend allows me to buy parts on his account at a local wholesale warehouse. I wanted a Genuine GM solenoid, 12615873, but was not available. I bought a Standard Motor Parts VVT102 for just under $38 and over the years I have had decent results with Standard. Unbolted the P/S pump and flopped out of the way and changed the solenoid. Reassembled all components and it fired right up. I had already cleared the P0300 code. I went to live info on my scanner and all looked good and drove it slow in neighborhood, 35-40 on major side streets and at 60-65 on the highway and romped on it hard a couple times and am still impressed with that 4.2 engine power. No code(s) came back and will be driving it more while my girl is gone for a couple days.

Almost forgot. I plan on cleaning the MAF sensor tomorrow and inspecting the MAP sensor.

So, knowing all this and what I did, what are thoughts of the members here? Thanks in advance for input.
I think you might need to do a crankshaft correlation relearn, but am not quite sure on the 4.2. Mooseman over on the other board would be the person to ask.
 
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As it turns out, there is no MAF sensor on this TB. Yesterday, when the CEL was out and even after I replaced the VVT solenoid, I did look at live counts and history. All looked good. There were random counts of misfire in history but as far as I could see, no thresholds were reached. I did have the throttle body off yesterday and it was very clean and should have been clean. I cleaned it about 6 months ago and she can go long periods without driving it.

I do plan to replace the Intake Air Temp Sensor and the MAP today. When she does drive it, she can be up north of Seattle and I want to give this 75k miles TB every chance it has to get her there safely and with no problems. If I had a hard/constant code and problem, I would feel better but knowing what I know about "intermittent problems", I am going to parts cannon this with good quality inexpensive MAP and IAT sensors.
 
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I did get the GM IAT sensor and the Delphi MAP sensor installed. The first thing I noticed was a bit smoother idle. The idle was not bad before but is noticeably smoother now. The rest of the road test was the same as before.
 
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Today's adventure is a 2004 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor, with a fuel leak. I have narrowed it down to the driver's side rear, just inside the front of the rear tire. There is a shield/cover that I need to remove but I have a sneaking feeling that the source is a fuel filter hose, based off of you tube videos and location of fuel filter. I have seen the leaks dripping off the shield, last night when they showed up, and felt the fluid and even tasted it. Don't laugh, us old guys taste fluids. So, effff off with your snickering. Plus, keeps me in shape for my girl. I know that I should get lucky with the "fuel wash" that fuel does when it runs across anything. More details later. Right now I have my shop battery charger on it because it would not turn over. I have verified that it will start with the charger on it. Going up on ramps soon.
 
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Found the fuel leak. One of the plastic stems, on top of fuel pump, under the rear seat, is cracked and spewing. The two lines that feed down under the tank to the fuel filter, are also seeping at the crimp fittings. Fuel filter looks original. You can see the bubbles it is making, in the second pic.

20241026_104143.jpg


20241026_104345.jpg
 
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The thing is, the fuel pump is actually under the passenger side of the rear bench seat and the sending unit is on the driver's side under the bench seat. The electricals and lines run from the sending unit over to the pump and to replace the sending unit, on the left side, you have to pull the pump, under the right side and disconnect. The sending unit is bad on this one but at 20 years old, I said I am replacing both or not at all and the lines, feed and return, from the top of the sending unit go down to the fuel filter and then on the other side of the filter, 2 lines go to the engine compartment. None of it has ever been changed. I said, pump, sending unit, both lines to the filter and the filter, or not at all. Lines are unavailable at RA but found them at ebay, NOS, and the pump/sending units are available at RA, Delphi/Bosch, and the filter, genuine MB, is at ebay. Parts and shipping is all just under $1000.
 
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Found the fuel leak. One of the plastic stems, on top of fuel pump, under the rear seat, is cracked and spewing. The two lines that feed down under the tank to the fuel filter, are also seeping at the crimp fittings. Fuel filter looks original. You can see the bubbles it is making, in the second pic.

View attachment 441277

View attachment 441278


I am assuming that why these pump mounts are recessed like that into a sump type of area is for protection from impact and / or clearance in fuel tank mounting. But the end result always seems to be that it acts as a trap for water, dirt and debris. Then the inevitable corrosion and failure. That area needs to be able to drain out IMHO. Look at that pool of fuel and dirt.
 
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I am assuming that why these pump mounts are recessed like that into a sump type of area is for protection from impact and / or clearance in fuel tank mounting. But the end result always seems to be that it acts as a trap for water, dirt and debris. Then the inevitable corrosion and failure. That area needs to be able to drain out IMHO. Look at that pool of fuel and dirt.
Filthy under that seat and the boy, about 22 years old, is a slob. Stuff all over the seats and floors. I do charge for that too.
 

homesick

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Many years ago, my ex called me, wanting me to "talk to your daughter".

She refused to change her oil because "Daddy said it doesn't use oil".

[She can drive a standard transmission, though.]

joe
 
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I checked the oil and did not read on the stick. I topped it off. Took 2.5 quarts. I removed battery and they got a new one. Replaced the bad cable end and attached the two wires. Acted like wanted to start but would not. Pulled plugs. Soaking wet. Plugs out and sitting overnight to evaporate the gas on plugs and on the pistons. Gonna reinstall and try again tomorrow. may need to pull the cap. valve cover leaks. I tightened the bolts. It is a mess.
 

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