Got a 2003 with one key and one FOB. I had a second fob from a Buick that I thought might work, so I followed the programming where you hold the unlock button, hit ignition twice. The original fob made the doors lock/unlock, so I assumed it took the reprogram. The Buick fob didn't get any response. So I closed out the programming by turning the key on. But now my original fob doesn't work at all. I went back and did the programming process again, this time just getting the original fob programmed. The Tahoe responded to the fob during programming again. However, afterwards the fob just doesn't work at all. So is it a problem with the original fob, or do you have to have two good fobs to get the programming to work, or did I hose something else up? Thanks in advance for your help.
key fob programming problem
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Take the truck and both fobs to a local locksmith, and have them reprogram the original fob. They will determine if the replacement fob is useable for your truck. They also sell replacement fobs at a reasonable price. You will be in and out of there within 20 minutes or less.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Also need to check the FCC frequency on the back of the replacement fob. Needs to be compatible with the originals FCC frequency.
Long ago I picked up two aftermarket FOBs for my '04. When I went to program them, the OE (Driver 1) FOB wouldn't program, but the new ones would. I recall attempting the programming a couple of times that day but couldn't get it to accept that OE FOB. But the two aftermarket FOBs were accepted and programmed.
Note that once you initiate programming -- successful or not -- it wipes all existing programmed FOBs out of the BCM.
If you have your OE FOB, look on the back to see what the FCC ID is; your replacements need to be compatible with your OE FCC ID, as @Tonyrodz noted. Here's mine, but yours may be different since it's an earlier model.
Note that once you initiate programming -- successful or not -- it wipes all existing programmed FOBs out of the BCM.
If you have your OE FOB, look on the back to see what the FCC ID is; your replacements need to be compatible with your OE FCC ID, as @Tonyrodz noted. Here's mine, but yours may be different since it's an earlier model.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
You could always pick up some new fobs cheaply from ebay or Amazon. Just make sure the new FCC #s are compatible with your old one. Cheap and quick. You could find 2 for $20 or less.
Thanks for all the replies. The original I have doesn't have any markings on it, so I'm thinking it may not be an original GM unit that would have come with the truck. I did order a couple new ones and found a local locksmith that I'll have program them for me. Hopefully that'll do the trick.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Have you tried opening the fob up? I've never looked, but the FCC # might be inside on the board. Can't hurt to look.
A transmitter like that would legally need to be FCC-certified & displayed somewhere on the device, so the number should be there somewhere.
nonickatall
Full Access Member
I did this on mine recently, too; it's a bit tricky. To avoid problems, the best thing to do is briefly disconnect the battery, so the car is completely without power. This clears any old settings.
Reconnect the battery.
Then get in your car and close the door. Insert the ignition key into the ignition, but don't turn it yet.
Then press and hold the unlock button. Initially, my problem was that the microswitch for this button wasn't working properly, because it's practically never used, so I had to press it back and forth a few times, until it triggered reliably.
So you keep that unlock Button pressed.
Then turn the ignition key to the on and off positions twice. On, off, on, off.
Don't start the engine.
Release the unlock button, and you should hear a clack, clack when the actuators in the doors respond.
Once that happens, the car is ready to program the remote.
Then you have to press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously. This takes quite a while, probably 15 to 20 seconds, and then suddenly the central locking system unlocks and locks the door locks again. You'll hear a click-clack sound again.
Then the remote is programmed.
You do the same thing with the next remote. Means press, the buttons on the next remote.
If you want to stop programming just open the door.
I had to repeat this 3-4 times before it worked. As I said, in my case it was the microswitch of the unlock button in the door.
Hope it helps
Reconnect the battery.
Then get in your car and close the door. Insert the ignition key into the ignition, but don't turn it yet.
Then press and hold the unlock button. Initially, my problem was that the microswitch for this button wasn't working properly, because it's practically never used, so I had to press it back and forth a few times, until it triggered reliably.
So you keep that unlock Button pressed.
Then turn the ignition key to the on and off positions twice. On, off, on, off.
Don't start the engine.
Release the unlock button, and you should hear a clack, clack when the actuators in the doors respond.
Once that happens, the car is ready to program the remote.
Then you have to press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously. This takes quite a while, probably 15 to 20 seconds, and then suddenly the central locking system unlocks and locks the door locks again. You'll hear a click-clack sound again.
Then the remote is programmed.
You do the same thing with the next remote. Means press, the buttons on the next remote.
If you want to stop programming just open the door.
I had to repeat this 3-4 times before it worked. As I said, in my case it was the microswitch of the unlock button in the door.
Hope it helps
