The KidWagon

[gooffeyguy]

Run it through the radiator cooler. It helps get it up to temp.

As for the thermostat, I've seen some coolers built with "internal bypass" which are smaller passages in sections of the cooler, so when fluid is cold and thicker it won't flow into those areas and basically "bypass" much of the cooler. After the fluid heats up and gets thinner, its then able to flow through the smaller passages in the cooler.

 

[Doubeleive]

top one is parts off of amazon, bottom one is parts off of ebay
you need 2 of each, these will let you bolt the trucool right up in-line with the existing radiator cooler & lines

 

[KidWgn]

Run it through the radiator cooler. It helps get it up to temp.

As for the thermostat, I've seen some coolers built with "internal bypass" which are smaller passages in sections of the cooler, so when fluid is cold and thicker it won't flow into those areas and basically "bypass" much of the cooler. After the fluid heats up and gets thinner, its then able to flow through the smaller passages in the cooler.

I’m not concerned with getting it up to temp. It will be 85°+ here for the next 6 months. By the time late fall comes around, I’ll install that thermostatic outlet I posted with 6an lines.

 

[KidWgn]

top one is parts off of amazon, bottom one is parts off of ebay
you need 2 of each, these will let you bolt the trucool right up in-line with the existing radiator cooler & lines
View attachment 430384View attachment 430385

Not terribly concerned with reusing the factory lines since I’ll be switching to 6an lines toward the end of the year

 

[Doubeleive]

Not terribly concerned with reusing the factory lines since I’ll be switching to 6an lines toward the end of the year

the factory lines do not connect to a tru cool, you have to use adapters or the rubber hose and screw clamps that come with the tru cool which in my case decided to work there way loose and start leaking. the tru cool fittings are 5/8-18 and the factory lines are a flared pipe.
so the adpaters I noted above convert the flared pipe to 6an and then from 6an back to 5/8-18
you can just use what comes in the tru cool kit, but you might not want too.
it's just a option for a more secure fitment.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Nothing like doing it twice

or asking how we've done it just to do it however you want to anyway

 

[Doubeleive]

Nothing like doing it twice

got that right, I was kinda mad about it, then I had to go back and drop it under the front anyway.

 

[KidWgn]

Nothing like doing it twice

or asking how we've done it just to do it however you want to anyway

Just because I asked for your input, that doesn’t mean that I automatically have to agree with your reasoning.

The radiator cooler’s job is to warm the fluid; our transmissions obviously have no problem warming the fluid, and here in the Midwest we spend little time below 32°, as you know. This means that the radiator cannot efficiently cool the ATF much below the 200° that the water temp sits at. If our objective is to keep the fluid 160-180°, the radiator isn’t helping us much.

If bringing the fluid up to temp is your only reason for running it through the radiator first, then I’ll bypass the radiator.

 

[KidWgn]

the factory lines do not connect to a tru cool, you have to use adapters or the rubber hose and screw clamps that come with the tru cool which in my case decided to work there way loose and start leaking. the tru cool fittings are 5/8-18 and the factory lines are a flared pipe.
so the adpaters I noted above convert the flared pipe to 6an and then from 6an back to 5/8-18
you can just use what comes in the tru cool kit, but you might not want too.
it's just a option for a more secure fitment.

Right right, I guess I replied a bit loosely. I’m planning on just using the rubber line for now, until I swap to 6an with the thermostatic outlet.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Just because I asked for your input, that doesn’t mean that I automatically have to agree with your reasoning.

The radiator cooler’s job is to warm the fluid; our transmissions obviously have no problem warming the fluid, and here in the Midwest we spend little time below 32°, as you know. This means that the radiator cannot efficiently cool the ATF much below the 200° that the water temp sits at. If our objective is to keep the fluid 160-180°, the radiator isn’t helping us much.

If bringing the fluid up to temp is your only reason for running it through the radiator first, then I’ll bypass the radiator.

It's not my only reason, I just said it helps get it up to temp.

160* is pretty cool for trans fluid, especially for Dex VI and in summer heat

 

[Doubeleive]

my problem is the opposite I can't keep the bastard cool enough, with a stock setup i run 200-220 in nothing flat, not even towing and even when it is somewhat cool out

 

[gooffeyguy]

my problem is the opposite I can't keep the bastard cool enough, with a stock setup i run 200-220 in nothing flat, not even towing and even when it is somewhat cool out

That's more than likely because of the way you drive, LOL, plus what is somewhat cool where you're at, 90*

 

[ivin74]

Did you boys plumb your 40k inline with your radiator-cooler, or just eliminate the radiator loop all together?

I eliminated the oem cooler on my suv, also live in TX and we get a light winter.

 

[KidWgn]

my problem is the opposite I can't keep the bastard cool enough, with a stock setup i run 200-220 in nothing flat, not even towing and even when it is somewhat cool out

That’s my problem, too. 200° is easily achieved with the stock “cooler”, and why I’m choosing to bypass it. I hit 223° the other day, and it was only 85° ambient. Hoping this will keep me in the 180° range while I drive it like a Corvette

Part of my issue is the 3.08’s, which means it’s downshifting every time I need the truck to do anything with gusto. I have a feeling 4.11’s are going to make me enjoy the truck a lot more.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Something else may be going on there. My trans temp with the stock cooler has never gone over 205, when not towing, in the same climate.

What is the engine coolant temp when your trans is 223? Is your fluid and filter fresh? Cooler fins clear? Do you have the oil cooler also? Electric fans working properly?

I can't imagine the differences in the front grill openings between a Tahoe and Yukon making that much of a difference

EDIT: I have had a Diablo tune installed since day one of having this rig. It may have the fan on/off temps come on a few degrees cooler than stock, which I'm sure effects trans temp

 

[Doubeleive]

That’s my problem, too. 200° is easily achieved with the stock “cooler”, and why I’m choosing to bypass it. I hit 223° the other day, and it was only 85° ambient. Hoping this will keep me in the 180° range while I drive it like a Corvette

Part of my issue is the 3.08’s, which means it’s downshifting every time I need the truck to do anything with gusto. I have a feeling 4.11’s are going to make me enjoy the truck a lot more.

no thermal bypass on mine and even with the deep pan and tru cool on a typical 85-90deg day it will run 180, maybe as high as 190, winter anywhere from 120-165+ which is fine with me
highest I have seen it since install is like 214 and that was at around 6000ft in bumper to bumper traffic going uphill and 85-90 deg's ambient
when I had the tru cool in front of the radiator it ran a little cooler but would make the engine temp go up easily, transmission is cheaper than a engine so I moved it to the lower bumper.
lowest I have seen it was 112 also at 6000ft in the snow traveling around 30 mph, not sure what the ambient was somewhere below freezing but not below zero
a thermal bypass would just make mine run hotter
if I go out and start it up and just let it idle it will go up to and sit stagnant on 180 all day long

 

[Doubeleive]

That's more than likely because of the way you drive, LOL, plus what is somewhat cool where you're at, 90*

it is exactly because of the way I drive, silverado does the same thing.

 

[kbuskill]

Just some more food for thought... Fluid temps that are too cool won't get rid of moisture/water vapor.

Water boils at 212° at sea level.

Discuss.... lol

 

[KidWgn]

https://imgur.com/a/H2sHuld

Install pics

 

[KidWgn]

Just some more food for thought... Fluid temps that are too cool won't get rid of moister/water vapor.

Water boils at 212° at sea level.

Discuss.... lol

Water begins to evaporate more quickly around 150°F. Boiling point is obviously 212°F, but you’ll see steam much before this, even heating water on the stove.

A quick galavant down the highway one exit and back (romping on it) showed me 153° with an ambient temp of 95°. I think I’ll be okay.