No loss of pedal pressure. Maybe I'm just trippin on the heat, but...the front wheels are way hotter than rear, and front right is hotter than front left. Just seems really weird, I'm gonna feel my Yukon wheels after a drive and see if it's similar.
That's it - F this turd-burban.
- Thread starter rmaker
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YukonRog
Full Access Member
You said you did some heavy brake checks so that's what I thought you meant. Usually uneven wear on one side of the caliper means it's not retracting properly. Guide pins sticking and dirty, or the same with the pistons. Sometimes you need to replace the calipers. Sometimes it's a bad rubber hose as mentioned above.
I knew what I was getting into with it's age, but never even considered things like a new drive shaft as part of the scenario or vapor canister vent (problems filling gas tank too). I knew I would be in for brakes/rotors/cal, suspension, belts, and basics. Rear main and fuel pump eventually. Didn't even learn about the afm stuff till after I bought it as my 02 Yukon is prior to afm. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
Poor choice of words on my part. Brand new calipers/rotors/hoses/pads and I greased the shit outta the guide pins, pistons etc.
The heat difference for the front and rear is normal. When you apply brakes, there is a proportioning valve that first applies the rear brakes. This is because if you are on wet or icy roads and the fronts apply it can cause you to lose control. Anyway, the rears apply first and then the fronts take over and do most of the braking action. The fronts will be hotter than the rear because of this.
I would make sure all the air is burped out of the slide pin boots. If you lube em up and slam them in, air can get trapped and act like a little spring holding pressure on the caliper. Just did my 2017 and had to use a small pick to gently bleed the air out when fully compressed. May be minimal, but any side pressure can cause drag=heat.
You definitely have a laundry list that you've had to do. As stated above, once you get through this, you should have a good ride. Sucks you couldn't have had an inspection prior to purchasing it. I'd maybe even reach out to the guy and see if he'll help out some. Worth a shot, maybe he's a decent human being.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
What brand parts did you use? Got any part numbers?
I burped the pins with a lil pick too - will recheck and re-burb em. The guy ain't gonna do shit - I can guarantee that. This is South Florida and the quality of used vehicles is all over the place, and I would say more bad than good.
Rear calipers - brakebest Oreilly brand Remanufactured - 18B5031 (RR) / 18B5030 (LR)
front calipers brakebest and a duralast - oreilly/Autozone Remanufactured 18B4919A/18B4918A
Brake hoses - Rear - Dorman H620771 (RR) / Dorman H620768 (LR) / Front Dorman H620779 (RF) / Dorman H620480 (LF)
Pads - Raybestos R Line Ceramic - RAYBESTOS MGD1194CH
Rotors - Raybestos R Line - RAYBESTOS 580279R
Timken hubs - The mechanic installed don't have #
delco inners/outers (I believe - mechanic installed and says he used acdelco)
Hoses/belts napa/Advance -MasterPro Serpentine Belt 6 Rib 94 Inch - K060935 / Gates Micro-V Stretch-Fit Serpentine Belt 4 Rib 36 Inch - K040355SF
Heater Hoses - GM Genuine
Heater hose connectors - Dorman 800-413CD / 800-414CD
Not the top quality stuff - I had ordered and received Raybestos calipers, but they were shit and I returned them and have had pretty good luck with reman calipers in the past.
Minor update - scanned with an Actron Poclketsanner for the check engine light
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean.
During the scan process, the scanner asked about ABS codes and then promoted me to input year/make/model, then it gave me two choices, a series of numbers and letters - I didn't write them down yet but one started with a U. I didn't know which to choose so I backed out. I assume it was maybe a sub-process to read ABS issues? I will try again later, write down the options and search for the two options presented.
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean.
During the scan process, the scanner asked about ABS codes and then promoted me to input year/make/model, then it gave me two choices, a series of numbers and letters - I didn't write them down yet but one started with a U. I didn't know which to choose so I backed out. I assume it was maybe a sub-process to read ABS issues? I will try again later, write down the options and search for the two options presented.
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