Sunroof Dead

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Matthew Jeschke

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only worry with junkyard here is I live in the desert. every motor would have been baked lol my guess is mine failed because of the heat. guy i bought truck from parked it outside in the sun. i had to get a new dash, and most of the plastic bits on outside are pretty sorry looking :/

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Yukon_

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Thanks for the suggestions, as i am out of warranty and cannot listen to dealership BS I went into this myself, I downloaded the schematics from www.bbbind.com. Excellent site have all the diagrams of most cars and TSB announcements.
I traced my sunroof switch all the way back to the fuse in drivers panel, it was a 10A called RAP SEO. Swapped the fuse and bang it blew again.
So i then traced this line back to the front windshield behind the plastic cover behind the mirror, and then bingo in dawned on me, i had a new windshield replaced a month earlier and never thought of checking the sunroof.
I started removing cables and when i got to this device marked A and unplugged it the fuse didn't blow.
Now what is this strange device in picture one because the weird part was, the rain sensor works, the Adaptive cruise control works, now what really pisses me off I then plug everything back in as its getting late and the fuse didn't blow.
so i am searching google. I hope this may help folks in the future

View attachment 209458
I have this exact issue. I had a family member replace a broken windshield, (on the side, so as not to pay full price) - I don't use the sunroof much, but when I did a few days after windshield was replaced, it no longer worked. Turns out, he installed the wrong window, so not only did I have a non-working sunroof, I also did not have rain-sensor wipers which I thought was odd. This was because the window used did not have a cut-out in the black panel (on-glass) just behind the rear view mirror, where the sensor is to see the sky. There was a cut-out for the early warning indicator for road detection when you are approaching cars, and for lane departure, just not for the rain-sensor. I ended up replacing the #21 30A fuse in passenger side fuse panel "marked Sunroof". Did not work. I will NEXT attempt the #8 10A RAP SEO fuse on driver's side. But I have a feeling until I get yet another new Windshield, the issue will probably not go away. Found this out when a buddy came by to fix a tiny chip in Window (2 weeks after I got new windshield put in) and I already had a rock hit it to create a new chip in glass. After he inspected it, I happened to ask about my rain sensor, he then identified the wrong window had been installed. This guy has been installing glass for awhile, unlike my family member. I know who to use next time.
 

T C SD

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"My sunroof died as well—in the open position. But I didn’t have a windshield replacement or anything like that. Turns out fuse 8DL had blown, which is unusual since nothing has been added to any circuit.
If someone else has the same problem, be sure to check not only the sunroof fuse in the right fuse box (30A), but also the 10A fuse for the switch in the left fuse box.

Hope this helps someone."


100% fix after swapping the 30a and found it wasn't the issue!

Thanks!
 
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Ryan H

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I disconnected it to troubleshoot, looks like a new one is about 100 bucks online. I think it kind of dumb anyway i much prefer controlling the wipers myself
@Chris brindle what do I need to check on fuses on my Yukon to fix the sunroof being dead? In 2018 you resolved your issue. Mine is same w/o the new windshield. 30a fuse is good on passenger side. 10a fuse on driver side keeps blowing. I’m lost.
 

bgiff

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I had my pristine (original owner) 2500 burb parked and covered with a tarp for years when my sunroof stuck open after a battery change. I spent hours researching, jumping the switch connector in the over head console, tried the “key on hold button ” reset procedures many times etc I just gave up because dropping the headliner on a burb is such a PITA.
Eventually when i decided to get her back on the road , I measured the exact location of the sunroif motor on a car at the junkyard with headliner removed. In the center you will see a 5 or 6mm hex key bolt. I cut a hole the sane size of an a/c vent in headliner at that location. You can insert the proper size allen wrench and manually crank it to open or close. I thought about putting a manyal crank fron a VW but it looks like that cebter hub is soft potmetal and it will strip easy. I just stuck a new plastic vent thing in the hole and it looks factory.

I guess the only fix is the dealer special computer scan tool, but they will also want to drop the headliner even tho the motor is likely fine. 2-4 grand i bet. Ima just live with it shut. At least shes not getting wet and full of leaves anymore….
 

Matthew Jeschke

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@bgiff what year is your suburban? Mine didn't require any relearn procedure although is a GMT800.

The gears in my actuator were plastic and eventually cracked. I did fix my original motor gears using bailing wire and it worked for a while. The actuator isn't hard to take apart and see what went wrong. I had a HELL of a time finding a replacement. Eventually I learned some Mercedes used the same actuator and ordered a used one off eBay. Granted it's still OLD but works.

Dropping the headliner is a bit of work but certainly not impossible. I'd sooner do that then spend 2 thousand dollars.
 

bgiff

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Mine’s a 2001. There is definitely a “manual ” calibration procedure that involves holding the sunroof button as you turn the key on. I suspect there is another fail safe ecm lockout that only dealers with a fancy scan tool can access but i dont know fer sure.
mines dead dead- even jumping the connector in my overhead console doesnt do anything. Also, there is no fuse labled sunroof in any of the three fyse blocks in my truck.

I know mine stoped working after a battery swap like 10 years ago. Ive read that this a common occurrence and there are tons of youtube tutorials and forum posts about this .
 

Fless

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@bgiff Thread is for 2015-2020 years. 2001 RAP #2 fuse should be the one that powers the sunroof.

Capture.JPG


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Circuit diagram here:

 
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Matthew Jeschke

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Mine’s a 2001. There is definitely a “manual ” calibration procedure that involves holding the sunroof button as you turn the key on. I suspect there is another fail safe ecm lockout that only dealers with a fancy scan tool can access but i dont know fer sure.
mines dead dead- even jumping the connector in my overhead console doesnt do anything. Also, there is no fuse labled sunroof in any of the three fyse blocks in my truck.

I know mine stoped working after a battery swap like 10 years ago. Ive read that this a common occurrence and there are tons of youtube tutorials and forum posts about this .
Mine is a 2001 as well. Odd, I don't recall having to do a relearn procedure on mine but then again I did it years ago.

I have the factory service manual I can look that up. You can pull the switch from the ceiling console and try a power probe to run the motor. The pinout for the switch would be in the FSM I'll try to remember when I open that next time.
 

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