Stubborn Harmonic Balancer

[Plimbob]

I have been in the process of removal of the cam sensor which has been a failure - detailed in other thread.

Now I have resorted to removal of the timing cover, I have everything off around it and have removed the balancer bolt. Now stuck with a stuck
harmonic balancer. I am using an OEM three jaw puller which connects and hold on flawlessly.

The problem is that baby is like it is welded on (engine has 306K and it's never been off), I have heated it up let it cool and heated it again but its not budging. I put a pretty good amount of pressure on it which resulted in starting to bend the extension push rod.

I have done some research and have seen different hacks on here and Youtube, using a socket instead of the rod, using the old bolt with the flange ground down and screwed back into the crank (that makes me nervous about damaging the threads?) and then using an air impact?

Anyone have any thoughts on this process?

Thanks much!
Tim

 

[swathdiver]

Hey Tim, Are you using a 1/2" impact gun or brute force?

 

[Geotrash]

I have been in the process of removal of the cam sensor which has been a failure - detailed in other thread.

Now I have resorted to removal of the timing cover, I have everything off around it and have removed the balancer bolt. Now stuck with a stuck
harmonic balancer. I am using an OEM three jaw puller which connects and hold on flawlessly.

The problem is that baby is like it is welded on (engine has 306K and it's never been off), I have heated it up let it cool and heated it again but its not budging. I put a pretty good amount of pressure on it which resulted in starting to bend the extension push rod.

I have done some research and have seen different hacks on here and Youtube, using a socket instead of the rod, using the old bolt with the flange ground down and screwed back into the crank (that makes me nervous about damaging the threads?) and then using an air impact?

Anyone have any thoughts on this process?

Thanks much!
Tim

Those threads can handle an enormous amount of pressure, as long as it's not direct hammer pressure. A piece of threaded rod with the same threads as the bolt, then cut just long enough to bottom out in the hole and leave a little bit sticking out for the puller to work against is an alternative to grinding off the shoulders of a hardened bolt. Then use the air impact wrench to tighten the jackscrew on the puller.

I'm assuming you already tried the different length rods that came with the puller and selected the shortest one that would work, yes?

 

[Plimbob]

Guys, I have not used my air impact yet, I was fearful of the pressure. Just brute force with a rachet. I used the longest one of the rods which is why it probably bent - duh... excellent point Dave!

I went to my local True Value and could not find a bolt with 2.0 pitch long enough to screw into the crank and bottom out to use. I'll keep looking for one.

I did pick up a short hardened flange bolt to stick through a 1/2 drive short impact socket which I thought I could place up against the crank and then screw the jackscrew against?

I'll keep working at it. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to educate me!

 

[gpracer1]

I would heat the balancer where it contacts the crank, but only the balancer, then cool the center (crank) with upside down duster (cold liquid) then hit it with the impact gun.

 

[Rocket Man]

I followed this guys advice to the T, including the Chrysler puller. It fits the slots in the balancer perfectly. Not sure if his method works with your puller. You do need to use a 1/2” impact (air or electric) either way.

 

[Plimbob]

Thanks Mark for the video!

I tried to look up the bolt specs but could find them, I know it's a 2.0 pitch but not diameter. Would rather find one with regular head so I don't have to grind off so much of the hardened flange of the old one.

I watched the video, make me nervous as !@#$ using an air impact with only screwing the bolt into the crank halfway! Maybe i am being a nervous Nelly but I would feel a lot better seating the extraction bolt further into the crank.

 

[Fless]

You can measure the diameter by measuring the overall diameter of the threads, or of the shank, with a caliper. Probably an M16 x 2.0 in your case.

Looks like the one in this link? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-910257/make/chevrolet

 

[Plimbob]

@Fless, here pic of the actual.

 

[Fless]

Ok, you can just measure the outer diameter of the threads to get the M# (like between the lines I drew).