Start Towing with 114K miles on my Yukon?

[randyg]

I have a 2011 4x4 Yukon SLT, 5.3L, 6 Spd, 3.42 Rear Axle, 2 Spd Transfer case, with HD Tow Package (oil cooler, HD trans cooler, increased fans/radiator, trailer brake controller) and skid plates, etc. I have used a Range AFM disabler module for the last 3 years or so. I'm the original owner, and have only towed a small cargo trailer for a couple of years on vacations. I'm thinking about towing a 22' "lite" dual axle travel trailer (4,040 dry weight/5,500 GVWR). Yukon with my set up rated at approx 8,000 towing lbs. A friend who is a retired mechanic with the Hiway Patrol once told me don't start towing now with high mileage when I haven't before. Why not?

Would appreciate thoughts on what to do to get ready for this if I go that direction...do I not have the original power of the engine by now? Are the gaskets not up to the towing task? I've never replaced shocks so far. Trying to think of what issues this might create and how to head them off. Thanks in advance.

 

[swathdiver]

I have a 2011 4x4 Yukon SLT, 5.3L, 6 Spd, 3.42 Rear Axle, 2 Spd Transfer case, with HD Tow Package (oil cooler, HD trans cooler, increased fans/radiator, trailer brake controller) and skid plates, etc. I have used a Range AFM disabler module for the last 3 years or so. I'm the original owner, and have only towed a small cargo trailer for a couple of years on vacations. I'm thinking about towing a 22' "lite" dual axle travel trailer (4,040 dry weight/5,500 GVWR). Yukon with my set up rated at approx 8,000 towing lbs. A friend who is a retired mechanic with the Hiway Patrol once told me don't start towing now with high mileage when I haven't before. Why not?

Would appreciate thoughts on what to do to get ready for this if I go that direction...do I not have the original power of the engine by now? Are the gaskets not up to the towing task? I've never replaced shocks so far. Trying to think of what issues this might create and how to head them off. Thanks in advance.

Should be fine, but if you have not changed the transmission fluid, do so before towing. Also, you wrote that the trailer's GVWR is 5,500 pounds and then say you are going to load it to 8,000 pounds? Are you going to use a weight distribution hitch system? You're supposed to with weights over 5K pounds.

Finally, your truck's curb weight is about 5,900 pounds. If you are towing 8K pounds, you are maxed out unless you weigh 100 pounds and are the only thing going in your Yukon. GCVW is 14,000 pounds.

With a truck that lasts 300k miles, many don't consider 100K, high mileage. Of course, at eleven years old, you ought to throughly check out your suspension, steering and tires and brakes and make sure they are up for the task.

 

[randyg]

Should be fine, but if you have not changed the transmission fluid, do so before towing. Also, you wrote that the trailer's GVWR is 5,500 pounds and then say you are going to load it to 8,000 pounds? Are you going to use a weight distribution hitch system? You're supposed to with weights over 5K pounds.

Finally, your truck's curb weight is about 5,900 pounds. If you are towing 8K pounds, you are maxed out unless you weigh 100 pounds and are the only thing going in your Yukon. GCVW is 14,000 pounds.

With a truck that lasts 300k miles, many don't consider 100K, high mileage. Of course, at eleven years old, you ought to throughly check out your suspension, steering and tires and brakes and make sure they are up for the task.

____________

Thanks for the info. The 8,000 lbs was referring to what the Yukon with the tow package is rated to tow. I have new tires and brakes, transmission serviced recently too, but suspension and steering I'll have to look at. Would definitely use a weight distribution hitch, too.

 

[swathdiver]

____________

Thanks for the info. The 8,000 lbs was referring to what the Yukon with the tow package is rated to tow. I have new tires and brakes, transmission serviced recently too, but suspension and steering I'll have to look at. Would definitely use a weight distribution hitch, too.

Got it, yes, you should be fine. Does your truck have the integrated trailer brake controller (JL1)? The short 4x4s are rated for 8,200 so at 5,500 she'll put it with relative ease. Just watch out for how much stuff you put in the Yukon, the more that goes into a properly balanced trailer the better.

Have you thought of running the whole set up through the CAT Scales at your local truck stop?

 

[randyg]

Got it, yes, you should be fine. Does your truck have the integrated trailer brake controller (JL1)? The short 4x4s are rated for 8,200 so at 5,500 she'll put it with relative ease. Just watch out for how much stuff you put in the Yukon, the more that goes into a properly balanced trailer the better.

Have you thought of running the whole set up through the CAT Scales at your local truck stop?

___________

Yep, Yukon has the integrated trailer brake controller though I've never used it. We have a Winnebago motorhome on a Ram Promaster chassis, so no trailer yet. When (if) we get one, we'll be sure to do the CAT scale thing. We go back and forth about a trailer about once a month. The van is incredible and convenient, but we keep thinking about unhooking and taking the Yukon on some of Utah's backroads, which we cannot do with the Promaster. Thanks for the good thoughts!

 

[Bill 1960]

Nothing to be concerned about at all, as long as you’re on top of the maintenance. Use the severe service maintenance intervals and you’ll be fine.

Adding load will potentially expose an underlying weakness that’s not apparent at low loads, for instance an underperforming cooling system or a transmission with a lot of wear or internal leaks etc.

 

[wsteele]

I towed a 5000lb tandem axle trailer with my similarly equipped Yukon for many years (my RA is a little lower), never an issue, towed like a dream.

Definitely heed the advice on transmission maintenance (and all maint, be conservative) and you should be fine.

I wouldn’t hesitate to tow what you are describing with my higher mileage 2007.

 

[Foggy]

If you haven't already, Make sure your trailer wiring harness is "LIVE"...
There is a wire up by the fuse box under the hood that needs to be connected
in order to get power to the trailer.. Your Lights work right from the factory, but
I have no idea why they wouldn't hook up the rest ... It's a thick red wire that
needs to be attached to the positive junction.
Should be able to find a pic on the web

 

[Fless]

If you haven't already, Make sure your trailer wiring harness is "LIVE"...
There is a wire up by the fuse box under the hood that needs to be connected
in order to get power to the trailer.. Your Lights work right from the factory, but
I have no idea why they wouldn't hook up the rest ... It's a thick red wire that
needs to be attached to the positive junction.
Should be able to find a pic on the web

Should be two wires -- one for the electric brake controller and one to send aux power (12v) to the trailer, if needed/wanted. eTrailer has a video on hooking them up, just search for one of the brake controllers and video links are there.

 

[adventurenali92]

I tow a 4300lb sea ray a couple times a year, with my 2006 xl Denali and I’m nearing 150k on the odometer. No problems at all. Just did all new brakes with the gmt900 front brake upgrade and I replaced ball joints, tie rods, and control arms in January. My truck also got a new radiator in December since the original factory one had a small crack in it. Should be ready to haul the boat back up to the mountains where we use it for the summer with ease.
Like everyone else has said as long as you’re up to date with all your maintenance and steering and suspension components are in order, go for it! Properly load up the trailer with the correct hitch system and hit the road!

 

[Geotrash]

Send it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[intheburbs]

Might want to get new shocks. I bought my 2008 Suburban 2500 with 106k miles on it back in 2013. Probably had the original shocks. First time I towed, lots of bounce and porpoising. Bilstein 4600s made a HUGE difference in ride and control. Still have them 7 years and 100k more miles later.

Also, when was the last time you changed your rear axle fluid? That's the weak link in the half-ton trucks. Make sure you treat it nice.

 

[randyg]

If you haven't already, Make sure your trailer wiring harness is "LIVE"...
There is a wire up by the fuse box under the hood that needs to be connected
in order to get power to the trailer.. Your Lights work right from the factory, but
I have no idea why they wouldn't hook up the rest ... It's a thick red wire that
needs to be attached to the positive junction.
Should be able to find a pic on the web

________
Thanks. I know that works as I towed a small open cargo trailer and a couple of U-Hauls along the way. I've never used the trailer brake controller though, so I need to have that checked.

 

[randyg]

Should be two wires -- one for the electric brake controller and one to send aux power (12v) to the trailer, if needed/wanted. eTrailer has a video on hooking them up, just search for one of the brake controllers and video links are there.

_________
Thanks, that will help a lot to make sure the brake controller is working.

 

[randyg]

I tow a 4300lb sea ray a couple times a year, with my 2006 xl Denali and I’m nearing 150k on the odometer. No problems at all. Just did all new brakes with the gmt900 front brake upgrade and I replaced ball joints, tie rods, and control arms in January. My truck also got a new radiator in December since the original factory one had a small crack in it. Should be ready to haul the boat back up to the mountains where we use it for the summer with ease.
Like everyone else has said as long as you’re up to date with all your maintenance and steering and suspension components are in order, go for it! Properly load up the trailer with the correct hitch system and hit the road!

___________
Thanks! I need to find a good local mechanic to go through the suspension, etc. Just had new brakes and transmission flush, will check records on the rear diff fluid, I think I had them all changed.

 

[randyg]

Might want to get new shocks. I bought my 2008 Suburban 2500 with 106k miles on it back in 2013. Probably had the original shocks. First time I towed, lots of bounce and porpoising. Bilstein 4600s made a HUGE difference in ride and control. Still have them 7 years and 100k more miles later.

Also, when was the last time you changed your rear axle fluid? That's the weak link in the half-ton trucks. Make sure you treat it nice.

___________
All fluids changed recently. Thanks for the reminder. Before I tow I'll go through my records to make sure on all of that. And thanks for the recommend on shocks. At 114k I still have the originals and was thinking that might make a big difference, appreciate knowing what works for you.

 

[swathdiver]

If you haven't already, Make sure your trailer wiring harness is "LIVE"...
There is a wire up by the fuse box under the hood that needs to be connected
in order to get power to the trailer.. Your Lights work right from the factory, but
I have no idea why they wouldn't hook up the rest ... It's a thick red wire that
needs to be attached to the positive junction.
Should be able to find a pic on the web

Should be two wires -- one for the electric brake controller and one to send aux power (12v) to the trailer, if needed/wanted. eTrailer has a video on hooking them up, just search for one of the brake controllers and video links are there.

If one has JL1, the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, the wire that was stored along the fender next to the fuse box will already be attached. The "hotel" wire or "Live" wire is coiled up under the brake booster. I reckon it's not connected so as to avoid potential grounding problems if it is not regularly used. We've towed with our truck utility trailers and have no use for it at present.

Someone on here once hooked up both the factory and aftermarket controllers at the same time and experienced all kinds of problems that the manufacturer said would happen. Don't be that guy.

 

[avalonandl]

Yeah, the Yukon can handle ANYTHING.....


Thats a Donzi 35ZF Center Console

 

[randyg]

If one has JL1, the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, the wire that was stored along the fender next to the fuse box will already be attached. The "hotel" wire or "Live" wire is coiled up under the brake booster. I reckon it's not connected so as to avoid potential grounding problems if it is not regularly used. We've towed with our truck utility trailers and have no use for it at present.

Someone on here once hooked up both the factory and aftermarket controllers at the same time and experienced all kinds of problems that the manufacturer said would happen. Don't be that guy.

Great advice! Thanks.

 

[randyg]

Yeah, the Yukon can handle ANYTHING.....


Thats a Donzi 35ZF Center Console

View attachment 276125

Looks like big fun!