Start Towing with 114K miles on my Yukon?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

intheburbs

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2017
Posts
776
Reaction score
1,345
Location
SE MI
Might want to get new shocks. I bought my 2008 Suburban 2500 with 106k miles on it back in 2013. Probably had the original shocks. First time I towed, lots of bounce and porpoising. Bilstein 4600s made a HUGE difference in ride and control. Still have them 7 years and 100k more miles later.

Also, when was the last time you changed your rear axle fluid? That's the weak link in the half-ton trucks. Make sure you treat it nice.
 
OP
OP
randyg

randyg

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Posts
52
Reaction score
21
Location
Utah
If you haven't already, Make sure your trailer wiring harness is "LIVE"...
There is a wire up by the fuse box under the hood that needs to be connected
in order to get power to the trailer.. Your Lights work right from the factory, but
I have no idea why they wouldn't hook up the rest ... It's a thick red wire that
needs to be attached to the positive junction.
Should be able to find a pic on the web
________
Thanks. I know that works as I towed a small open cargo trailer and a couple of U-Hauls along the way. I've never used the trailer brake controller though, so I need to have that checked.
 
OP
OP
randyg

randyg

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Posts
52
Reaction score
21
Location
Utah
Should be two wires -- one for the electric brake controller and one to send aux power (12v) to the trailer, if needed/wanted. eTrailer has a video on hooking them up, just search for one of the brake controllers and video links are there.
_________
Thanks, that will help a lot to make sure the brake controller is working.
 
OP
OP
randyg

randyg

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Posts
52
Reaction score
21
Location
Utah
I tow a 4300lb sea ray a couple times a year, with my 2006 xl Denali and I’m nearing 150k on the odometer. No problems at all. Just did all new brakes with the gmt900 front brake upgrade and I replaced ball joints, tie rods, and control arms in January. My truck also got a new radiator in December since the original factory one had a small crack in it. Should be ready to haul the boat back up to the mountains where we use it for the summer with ease.
Like everyone else has said as long as you’re up to date with all your maintenance and steering and suspension components are in order, go for it! Properly load up the trailer with the correct hitch system and hit the road!
___________
Thanks! I need to find a good local mechanic to go through the suspension, etc. Just had new brakes and transmission flush, will check records on the rear diff fluid, I think I had them all changed.
 
OP
OP
randyg

randyg

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Posts
52
Reaction score
21
Location
Utah
Might want to get new shocks. I bought my 2008 Suburban 2500 with 106k miles on it back in 2013. Probably had the original shocks. First time I towed, lots of bounce and porpoising. Bilstein 4600s made a HUGE difference in ride and control. Still have them 7 years and 100k more miles later.

Also, when was the last time you changed your rear axle fluid? That's the weak link in the half-ton trucks. Make sure you treat it nice.
___________
All fluids changed recently. Thanks for the reminder. Before I tow I'll go through my records to make sure on all of that. And thanks for the recommend on shocks. At 114k I still have the originals and was thinking that might make a big difference, appreciate knowing what works for you.
 

swathdiver

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2017
Posts
19,157
Reaction score
25,194
Location
Treasure Coast, Florida
If you haven't already, Make sure your trailer wiring harness is "LIVE"...
There is a wire up by the fuse box under the hood that needs to be connected
in order to get power to the trailer.. Your Lights work right from the factory, but
I have no idea why they wouldn't hook up the rest ... It's a thick red wire that
needs to be attached to the positive junction.
Should be able to find a pic on the web

Should be two wires -- one for the electric brake controller and one to send aux power (12v) to the trailer, if needed/wanted. eTrailer has a video on hooking them up, just search for one of the brake controllers and video links are there.


If one has JL1, the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, the wire that was stored along the fender next to the fuse box will already be attached. The "hotel" wire or "Live" wire is coiled up under the brake booster. I reckon it's not connected so as to avoid potential grounding problems if it is not regularly used. We've towed with our truck utility trailers and have no use for it at present.

Someone on here once hooked up both the factory and aftermarket controllers at the same time and experienced all kinds of problems that the manufacturer said would happen. Don't be that guy.
 
OP
OP
randyg

randyg

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Posts
52
Reaction score
21
Location
Utah
If one has JL1, the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, the wire that was stored along the fender next to the fuse box will already be attached. The "hotel" wire or "Live" wire is coiled up under the brake booster. I reckon it's not connected so as to avoid potential grounding problems if it is not regularly used. We've towed with our truck utility trailers and have no use for it at present.

Someone on here once hooked up both the factory and aftermarket controllers at the same time and experienced all kinds of problems that the manufacturer said would happen. Don't be that guy.

Great advice! Thanks.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,288
Posts
1,813,339
Members
92,392
Latest member
Turbokon
Top