Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

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Rocket Man

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I've never tried to look for one since my Burb isn't boosted.

Just a quick search turned up this... AC Delco 41-810... as the TR6 equivalent.

NGK TR6 - Cross Reference | sparkplug-crossreference.com
https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/TR6

Also Rock Auto lists a bunch of different plugs for a 2010 Corvette ZR-1 including the NGK TR6... they also list heat ranges in the more info section of each plug although I'm not certain how accurate they are.

2010 CHEVROLET CORVETTE 6.2L V8 Supercharged Spark Plug | RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...supercharged,1444467,ignition,spark+plug,7212

I know your engine is a 6.0 but that shouldn't make a difference.
The 41-810 also cross references with the TR6 and the TR4-2 though which means the heat range isn’t specified. The ACDelco 41-104 is mentioned in the Corvette forum as the same heat range as the TR6 but I have no proof, just one guys word.
 

pwtr02ss

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Is why I always stick with ACDelco plugs in my Chevy's. Never had any luck with NGK in an LS based motor.

I've changed the plugs on two trucks that were bought new (by my dad so I know they hadn't been changed), and they had NGK on one side and AC Delco on the other. I just buy whichever out of the two are cheaper that the time.
 
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I just changed to new TR6’s on the passenger side, pulled the wires and ohmed them out ( they checked fine) and then tried plugging them onto some old plugs. That #8 wire didn’t want to click onto the plug until I worked it on and off a few times. I made sure they all clicked on good, moved that wire onto #4 and threw the wheel on and took it for a drive with new copper plugs on one side and the unobtanium ones on the other side. It’s running like a ***** ape again. I’m gonna go ahead and put the new ruthenium plugs on and test drive it again. If it’s still running good I’ll reinstall the fender liner and when the new wires come I’ll just hold onto them. And next time I mess with plugs or wires I’ll do it on Saturday so I’ll have time to make sure it’s running good before Monday. No more Sunday night plug changes for The Beast. It’s just too hard to do in a hurry.
 
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Ok it’s official- The Beast does NOT like the Ruthenium plugs. I have worn myself out with this experiment. If anybody wants a set of these plugs, pay me for shipping and they’re yours. I reinstalled them on the passenger side, made absolutely sure the wires clicked onto both the plugs and coils ( the #8 wire was now on #2) , threw the wheel AND the liner on because I was so sure it was the wires causing the problem, and went for a test drive. Running like shit again, Tech2 shows it’s #8 again. Came back, pulled the wheel and liner, reinstalled the TR6’s, installed the wheel only, went for a test drive, running awesome again. Came back, pulled the wheel, reinstalled the liner and wheel. ****. Now there were rutheniums on the driver side and I figured it was a matter of time before it decided it didn’t like them so I pulled that wheel and liner, installed the other 4 new TR6’s, and the wheel only. Not taking chances. Went for a test drive....running awesome. BTW there’s a few houses out in the countryside here that are glad I’m done testing lol. WOT throttle pulls in this truck are LOUD. Came back, pulled the wheel, reinstalled the liner and wheel. DONE. The Beast likes TR6’s, good old cheap copper plugs. I lost track of how many times I’ve pulled the front wheels and liners in the last 2 days. My neighbors think I’m crazier than normal.
 
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I didn’t get enough abuse so I thought I’d replace the fuel filter that Amazon delivered today. I usually YouTube this shit just to refresh my memory in case there’s anything I forgot but I figured, it’s just a fuel filter. Remove the fuel pump relay, start the truck and let it run until it dies. That removes all the pressure, right? Apparently not. I unscrewed one of the lines and it looked loose but wouldn’t come off the filter so I repositioned my head right under it with the work light shining on it so I could see real good and wiggled the line a bit and then it let loose. And the gas hit me right in my eyes. Luckily I was wearing my glasses but it still hit my eyes pretty good. Blinded and not wanting to open my eyes since I could feel it burning, I blindly climbed out from under the truck and wandered into the garage. I felt around until I found a roll of paper towels. Oh man that hurt. All I could do was laugh it off. Been a rough day. Fuel filter change complete. :boxed:
 

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I didn’t get enough abuse so I thought I’d replace the fuel filter that Amazon delivered today. I usually YouTube this shit just to refresh my memory in case there’s anything I forgot but I figured, it’s just a fuel filter. Remove the fuel pump relay, start the truck and let it run until it dies. That removes all the pressure, right? Apparently not. I unscrewed one of the lines and it looked loose but wouldn’t come off the filter so I repositioned my head right under it with the work light shining on it so I could see real good and wiggled the line a bit and then it let loose. And the gas hit me right in my eyes. Luckily I was wearing my glasses but it still hit my eyes pretty good. Blinded and not wanting to open my eyes since I could feel it burning, I blindly climbed out from under the truck and wandered into the garage. I felt around until I found a roll of paper towels. Oh man that hurt. All I could do was laugh it off. Been a rough day. Fuel filter change complete. :boxed:
Sonofa!
 

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Ok it’s official- The Beast does NOT like the Ruthenium plugs. I have worn myself out with this experiment. If anybody wants a set of these plugs, pay me for shipping and they’re yours. I reinstalled them on the passenger side, made absolutely sure the wires clicked onto both the plugs and coils ( the #8 wire was now on #2) , threw the wheel AND the liner on because I was so sure it was the wires causing the problem, and went for a test drive. Running like shit again, Tech2 shows it’s #8 again. Came back, pulled the wheel and liner, reinstalled the TR6’s, installed the wheel only, went for a test drive, running awesome again. Came back, pulled the wheel, reinstalled the liner and wheel. ****. Now there were rutheniums on the driver side and I figured it was a matter of time before it decided it didn’t like them so I pulled that wheel and liner, installed the other 4 new TR6’s, and the wheel only. Not taking chances. Went for a test drive....running awesome. BTW there’s a few houses out in the countryside here that are glad I’m done testing lol. WOT throttle pulls in this truck are LOUD. Came back, pulled the wheel, reinstalled the liner and wheel. DONE. The Beast likes TR6’s, good old cheap copper plugs. I lost track of how many times I’ve pulled the front wheels and liners in the last 2 days. My neighbors think I’m crazier than normal.
Damn. A lot of work to find out the Beast wants you to change plugs every 5k miles eh..? Weak..!
 
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Damn. A lot of work to find out the Beast wants you to change plugs every 5k miles eh..? Weak..!
It’s been 8k and the old plugs looked fine anyway. They aren’t the problem with my cold starts, I’m still working on that. Tomorrow I’ll see if it was the fuel filter but I doubt it. I’m just hoping it’s not the small intake manifold leak has got bigger, enough to cause it.
According to BB it was real small the last time I installed the blower, and hasn’t been causing any issues for at least a year so I’m hoping it’s still not a problem. I never want to pull that thing again. It might be a dirty MAF which I’ll clean next, dirty injectors which will get a treatment soon, or if none of those help I’ll try the FPR which has caused the same problem in the past. I’m just doing normal maintenance first mainly because it’s time for it, and noticing results or lack of as it gets done.
 

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It’s been 8k and the old plugs looked fine anyway. They aren’t the problem with my cold starts, I’m still working on that. Tomorrow I’ll see if it was the fuel filter but I doubt it. I’m just hoping it’s not the small intake manifold leak has got bigger, enough to cause it.
According to BB it was real small the last time I installed the blower, and hasn’t been causing any issues for at least a year so I’m hoping it’s still not a problem. I never want to pull that thing again. It might be a dirty MAF which I’ll clean next, dirty injectors which will get a treatment soon, or if none of those help I’ll try the FPR which has caused the same problem in the past. I’m just doing normal maintenance first mainly because it’s time for it, and noticing results or lack of as it gets done.
Amen brother. And I was just throwing a number out there on the plugs. How often do you actually need to change those copper ones?
 
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Amen brother. And I was just throwing a number out there on the plugs. How often do you actually need to change those copper ones?
IDK, I only put about 8k a year on it and I’ve put 2 sets on in the 2 years since I installed the blower but not because they needed to be replaced , more because I had problems burning plug wires and since I had it apart I replaced the plugs too since they were only about $20 a set. I haven’t ever just changed the plugs because they needed to be replaced.
 

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IDK, I only put about 8k a year on it and I’ve put 2 sets on in the 2 years since I installed the blower but not because they needed to be replaced , more because I had problems burning plug wires and since I had it apart I replaced the plugs too since they were only about $20 a set. I haven’t ever just changed the plugs because they needed to be replaced.

Seems odd that its always a misfire on #8.

Any chance you installed the same plug in #8 both times?

Maybe that plug is the culprit... could be shorting out... cracked porcelain???
 
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Seems odd that its always a misfire on #8.

Any chance you installed the same plug in #8 both times?

Maybe that plug is the culprit... could be shorting out... cracked porcelain???
I didn’t pay attention when I pulled them out but I did check them out closely when I put them back in the second time and it wasn’t cracked and the electrodes looked fine. What is also funny is that with the ruthenium’s in both banks, #7 also recorded quite a few misfires but none with the TR6’s in the opposite bank. Both times the ruthenium’s were in all 8 cylinders, #8 misfired like crazy and #7 misfired quite a bit. It almost reminded me of when I put LED tail lights in and there was no problem but as soon as I put led’s in the front turn signals all of them combined caused my main brake lights to quit working until I added load resistors to the fronts. I know it sounds weird, but it’s almost like the system could handle 4 ruthenium’s but not 8....like there wasn’t enough of a load. I do have MSD Blaster coils too, not sure if that affected it. It’s like it was possessed lmao.
 

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I didn’t pay attention when I pulled them out but I did check them out closely when I put them back in the second time and it wasn’t cracked and the electrodes looked fine. What is also funny is that with the ruthenium’s in both banks, #7 also recorded quite a few misfires but none with the TR6’s in the opposite bank. Both times the ruthenium’s were in all 8 cylinders, #8 misfired like crazy and #7 misfired quite a bit. It almost reminded me of when I put LED tail lights in and there was no problem but as soon as I put led’s in the front turn signals all of them combined caused my main brake lights to quit working until I added load resistors to the fronts. I know it sounds weird, but it’s almost like the system could handle 4 ruthenium’s but not 8....like there wasn’t enough of a load. I do have MSD Blaster coils too, not sure if that affected it. It’s like it was possessed lmao.

Definitely strange.

Would have been interesting to swap the plug that was in #8 to a different cylinder just to see if the problem followed.
 
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Definitely strange.

Would have been interesting to swap the plug that was in #8 to a different cylinder just to see if the problem followed.
I highly doubt the same plug went back in that cylinder but who knows, I was out of patience by then and my hands were bleeding. :mad:
Edit: hey I have an idea- I’ll send you a set of free ruthenium plugs with less than 100 miles on them and you can install them and see if one is defective!
 

kbuskill

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I highly doubt the same plug went back in that cylinder but who knows, I was out of patience by then and my hands were bleeding. :mad:
Edit: hey I have an idea- I’ll send you a set of free ruthenium plugs with less than 100 miles on them and you can install them and see if one is defective!

Thanks but I already have a set... just gotta find time and have my son put them in... lol

Hopefully I don't have any issues out of them.
 

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Not sure how much boost you’re running but you should probably be running a #7 plug. I’ve personally noticed my truck runs better on a standard copper plug. I run NGK 3526/BP7EFS plugs. They are 1 Stage colder than a stock CTS V which is a good comparison. With higher cylinder pressures the copper plugs run much better than the expensive iridium or platinum plugs. Who cares if they don’t last 100k miles, I’d never run plugs that long anyways. Easy enough to change them every 20k-30k on a motor like that.

*Also, what are you gaping them at? I gap mine at .030”, sometimes maybe .035”. I wouldn’t go any bigger than that with a blower.
 
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