Replicating NorcalSS Drop Kit

[the_tool_man]

I don't know if I need one or not. But based on my experience lowering other vehicles, I bought a Spohn adjustable panhard bar, too.

 

[iamdub]

Cool! Movin on in life. Here's my FTM stuff. Note the UCA. I detached it from the axle, loosened the frame side, rotated it up outta the way then tightened the frame side bolt to hold it. Only took a few seconds with the impact to not have that arm in the way.

Either a glitch or I didn't post the link: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1320078

 

[iamdub]

I don't know if I need one or not. But based on my experience lowering other vehicles, I bought a Spohn adjustable panhard bar, too.

TIPS- When I first installed mine, I put the Zerk fitting on the axle side joint at the top for easy access:

But, while carrying 300lbs. of sand, the ear on the bracket tapped the cross member:

So I trimmed down that ear for a little more clearance. This exposed the Zerk fitting, though:

So I rotated that joint to put the Zerk fitting at the bottom. There's a slot in the bracket that allows access with a grease gun:

 

[91RS]

My advise is not to buy the Belltech springs, Belltech shock extenders, nor the DJM end links. I don’t have time right now to go into details but I will post again possibly later today or tomorrow.

 

[91RS]

My recommendation is not to use the Belltech rear springs because they are way too soft. They will work and I used them for over a year but always thought they felt soft compared to the front. From what I can tell the Auto Ride uses much stiffer springs than the trucks with passive shocks. The Belltech springs also lower more than advertised. I used the spacers under mine which is supposed to be a 3” drop but it is more like 4.” When I tried McGaughy’s 3” springs, it raised the rear 1.5.” Now I’m using MaxTrac 271240 4” rear springs and the ride height is within 0.25” of the Belltech’s with the spacer and now feels much better. I’m still using Belltech’s 2” drop knuckles in the front and I also like they links they have for the rear sensors instead of bending them or repositioning the sensor and they’re shorter bump stops look better than cutting the factory ones.

For the shock extenders, use McGaughy’s. Their’s offer the most drop to the shock. The Belltech extenders don’t actually drop the shock down any but move it back to make it more vertical (which is only better if you have passive suspension and can order shorter shocks).

For sway bar links, Hellwig offers shorter and adjustable ones that don’t require the bar to be moved over which isn’t necessary at a 4” rear drop anyway. I also recommend the Hellwig sway bars, the difference is massive. I also recommend the Spohn panhard bar if nothing else for the poly bushings that keep the differential in position better.

All of this applies to short wheel base. I just lowered my new-to-me long wheel base and have an odd vibration under heavy acceleration is 75mph I’m working on sorting out. I thought I had an internal differential problem but that is not the case. I measured the driveline working angles and they were in spec sitting but may not be while driving under load. I’m not sure yet if the solution is maybe the DJM control arm relocation brackets or Spohn adjustable arms.

 

[the_tool_man]

My recommendation is not to use the Belltech rear springs because they are way too soft. They will work and I used them for over a year but always thought they felt soft compared to the front. From what I can tell the Auto Ride uses much stiffer springs than the trucks with passive shocks. The Belltech springs also lower more than advertised. I used the spacers under mine which is supposed to be a 3” drop but it is more like 4.” When I tried McGaughy’s 3” springs, it raised the rear 1.5.” Now I’m using MaxTrac 271240 4” rear springs and the ride height is within 0.25” of the Belltech’s with the spacer and now feels much better. I’m still using Belltech’s 2” drop knuckles in the front and I also like they links they have for the rear sensors instead of bending them or repositioning the sensor and they’re shorter bump stops look better than cutting the factory ones.

For the shock extenders, use McGaughy’s. Their’s offer the most drop to the shock. The Belltech extenders don’t actually drop the shock down any but move it back to make it more vertical (which is only better if you have passive suspension and can order shorter shocks).

For sway bar links, Hellwig offers shorter and adjustable ones that don’t require the bar to be moved over which isn’t necessary at a 4” rear drop anyway. I also recommend the Hellwig sway bars, the difference is massive. I also recommend the Spohn panhard bar if nothing else for the poly bushings that keep the differential in position better.

All of this applies to short wheel base. I just lowered my new-to-me long wheel base and have an odd vibration under heavy acceleration is 75mph I’m working on sorting out. I thought I had an internal differential problem but that is not the case. I measured the driveline working angles and they were in spec sitting but may not be while driving under load. I’m not sure yet if the solution is maybe the DJM control arm relocation brackets or Spohn adjustable arms.

Wow, thanks for all that. Unfortunately, I've already placed my orders. But I'll check on what I can change course on.

 

[HansJr]

Wow, thanks for all that. Unfortunately, I've already placed my orders. But I'll check on what I can change course on.

Where and what did you end up sourcing for your kit?

 

[iamdub]

My recommendation is not to use the Belltech rear springs because they are way too soft. They will work and I used them for over a year but always thought they felt soft compared to the front. From what I can tell the Auto Ride uses much stiffer springs than the trucks with passive shocks. The Belltech springs also lower more than advertised. I used the spacers under mine which is supposed to be a 3” drop but it is more like 4.” When I tried McGaughy’s 3” springs, it raised the rear 1.5.” Now I’m using MaxTrac 271240 4” rear springs and the ride height is within 0.25” of the Belltech’s with the spacer and now feels much better. I’m still using Belltech’s 2” drop knuckles in the front and I also like they links they have for the rear sensors instead of bending them or repositioning the sensor and they’re shorter bump stops look better than cutting the factory ones.

For the shock extenders, use McGaughy’s. Their’s offer the most drop to the shock. The Belltech extenders don’t actually drop the shock down any but move it back to make it more vertical (which is only better if you have passive suspension and can order shorter shocks).

For sway bar links, Hellwig offers shorter and adjustable ones that don’t require the bar to be moved over which isn’t necessary at a 4” rear drop anyway. I also recommend the Hellwig sway bars, the difference is massive. I also recommend the Spohn panhard bar if nothing else for the poly bushings that keep the differential in position better.

All of this applies to short wheel base. I just lowered my new-to-me long wheel base and have an odd vibration under heavy acceleration is 75mph I’m working on sorting out. I thought I had an internal differential problem but that is not the case. I measured the driveline working angles and they were in spec sitting but may not be while driving under load. I’m not sure yet if the solution is maybe the DJM control arm relocation brackets or Spohn adjustable arms.

The springs for the models with ALC are actually softer since they work in conjunction with the air springs on the shocks. Adding air to adjust the height also increases the spring rate, and they maintain a minimum amount of air in them at all times. So, starting with a slightly softer spring balances out the firmness from the air springs. The models with ALC also have AutoRide. If the ALC system is removed or is otherwise non-functional, the rear is excessively soft so the AutoRide shocks firm up to counter this.

I, and many others would agree that the Belltech coils are too soft. Unless there's another BT coil we're discussing, they're soft because they're meant for a lighter vehicle. BT shocks tend to be a bit firm, so this masks the softness to an extent when they're all installed as a kit, as they usually are. This tends to be fine for most people in normal driving situations, but the mismatch really shows when loaded or towing. The go-to is to use the helper bags, but not everyone wants to use them.

Unless McGaughy or DJM changed their styles since I compared them, their extenders have the same mounting dimensions. The DJMs that I compared were just made of a slightly thicker steel, so I went with those on my drop. The good thing to know is this means the McGs should work with the DJM lower arm relocators whereas the BT ones will not.

I found that offsetting the sway bar at my 3.xx" rear drop was beneficial. No, it wasn't absolutely necessary, but it lightly in hard cornering. As close as it was at that first 3.xx" of drop meant it was necessary at my current 4.5" drop and driving style.

Your and my experiences (everyone's, for that matter) varying could be the result of regular old build tolerances between each unit. Actually, I had to clearance a mount tab on the RH side to solve a mild contact issue. I've only seen that same clearancing mentioned here in one other thread, and that was on a Suburban with a 6" drop. IMO, with modding for clearance after lowering, it's good to make a little more clearance than "just what works". If it had 4" of free travel before the drop, I want it to have 4" of free travel after the drop even if I only ever cycled the suspension 3". I don't wanna have to go back in to mod for that last inch of travel after I load or hitch up and find I need my full factory range of motion.

 

[chadw]

Ya Tony did a real neat job of taking a bunch of people money and disappearing. He's alive, he still posts pics of his ugly ass kids and a beat up 2nd gen escalade on fbook. Just a run of the mill ******* that got in over his head (surprise surprise).

Glad you were able to source your kit. Now if people would stop buying cheap garbage china wheels we'd be set.

 

[Gmoney15]

Are the drop LCA brackets a must worh 4” drop in the rear? My setup from NorCal didn’t include those?

 

[91RS]

I did not need them on either of my short wheel bases but my new-to-me long one has a vibration under hard acceleration at highway speeds and loosening all the rear control arms and twisting the axle to change the pinion angle a little did reduce it. I plan to buy the DJM control arm relocators to see what happens. They irritate me because any time I e-mail them asking questions they can't or won't answer.

 

[Doug118]

Wow, thanks for all that. Unfortunately, I've already placed my orders. But I'll check on what I can change course on.

I’ve been running Belltech shock extenders and the DJM sway bar end links for 4 years now and I have had zero problems and I have by far the lowest 07-14 static suv there is ‍

 

[89Suburban]

Wow, thanks for all that. Unfortunately, I've already placed my orders. But I'll check on what I can change course on.

Any progress on this drop?

 

[the_tool_man]

Any progress on this drop?

Nope. My window unit HVAC in my shop committed suicide and took the outlet out with it. Been busy installing a mini split. And it's too cold to work outside anyway. We've had snow twice this week, which we rarely get.

 

[Joel_S]

Lots of good info in here. Getting ready to lower my parents 07 Yukon as it’s a little too difficult for my 76 year old mother to get in at stock height and was wondering about Tony still having PayPal issues or not. Will wind up just piecing the kit together bit by bit to get a 2”/4” and keep rear factory air ride.

 

[89Suburban]

Lots of good info in here. Getting ready to lower my parents 07 Yukon as it’s a little too difficult for my 76 year old mother to get in at stock height and was wondering about Tony still having PayPal issues or not. Will wind up just piecing the kit together bit by bit to get a 2”/4” and keep rear factory air ride.

Post up your progress if you can and what you are using. Are you doing the free travel mod? I want to lower mine too but I want to keep it simple.

 

[Doug118]

Lots of good info in here. Getting ready to lower my parents 07 Yukon as it’s a little too difficult for my 76 year old mother to get in at stock height and was wondering about Tony still having PayPal issues or not. Will wind up just piecing the kit together bit by bit to get a 2”/4” and keep rear factory air ride.

I’m going to bet that he doesn’t actually have PayPal issues, he just doesn’t want to refund people. I’ve never heard of PayPal holding your money and not allowing you to refund people you scammed

 

[the_tool_man]

Post up your progress if you can and what you are using. Are you doing the free travel mod? I want to lower mine too but I want to keep it simple.

Sorry to let you down guys. The parts are still sitting in my shop for now. I got pulled away from Yukon mods for a while due to a side hustle opportunity I couldn't pass up. I'll pop back in when I get some time to work on this.

It's my DD, so I'm expecting to spend one weekend on the free travel mod, and the following one installing the drop. If I'm especially quick/lucky with the FTM, I may get to do it all in the same weekend. But my experience tells me that's not likely.

 

[17Betty]

I did my 1019 Belltech 2/4 drop this past Sunday, it took me 12 hours and for some reason I only got just around 1 3/4" drop in the rear and about 1.5" in the front I'm confused what's going on. also now one of my air ride shocks is leaking. I wonder if its cuz its putting to much air in them do to the rod length being to long.

 

[Doug118]

I did my 1019 Belltech 2/4 drop this past Sunday, it took me 12 hours and for some reason I only got just around 1 3/4" drop in the rear and about 1.5" in the front I'm confused what's going on. also now one of my air ride shocks is leaking. I wonder if its cuz its putting to much air in them do to the rod length being to long.

You can’t just leave the stock air shocks in there and install drop springs. If you have a 4” drop spring then you need to trick the sensor into thinking the truck is still stock height