Replicating NorcalSS Drop Kit

[17Betty]

I put the shorter sensor bars in and put them at 3" center to center like it said. Maybe I need to shorten them some more to see what happens. The leaking shock I think is just old but just odd that it started leaking right after lowering it.

 

[a4edwin]

My recommendation is not to use the Belltech rear springs because they are way too soft. They will work and I used them for over a year but always thought they felt soft compared to the front. From what I can tell the Auto Ride uses much stiffer springs than the trucks with passive shocks. The Belltech springs also lower more than advertised. I used the spacers under mine which is supposed to be a 3” drop but it is more like 4.” When I tried McGaughy’s 3” springs, it raised the rear 1.5.” Now I’m using MaxTrac 271240 4” rear springs and the ride height is within 0.25” of the Belltech’s with the spacer and now feels much better. I’m still using Belltech’s 2” drop knuckles in the front and I also like they links they have for the rear sensors instead of bending them or repositioning the sensor and they’re shorter bump stops look better than cutting the factory ones.

For the shock extenders, use McGaughy’s. Their’s offer the most drop to the shock. The Belltech extenders don’t actually drop the shock down any but move it back to make it more vertical (which is only better if you have passive suspension and can order shorter shocks).

For sway bar links, Hellwig offers shorter and adjustable ones that don’t require the bar to be moved over which isn’t necessary at a 4” rear drop anyway. I also recommend the Hellwig sway bars, the difference is massive. I also recommend the Spohn panhard bar if nothing else for the poly bushings that keep the differential in position better.

All of this applies to short wheel base. I just lowered my new-to-me long wheel base and have an odd vibration under heavy acceleration is 75mph I’m working on sorting out. I thought I had an internal differential problem but that is not the case. I measured the driveline working angles and they were in spec sitting but may not be while driving under load. I’m not sure yet if the solution is maybe the DJM control arm relocation brackets or Spohn adjustable arms.

Any pics of your set up?

 

[91RS]

 

[signguy62]

Rear is currently at 4.5in drop.
I've got the DJM hardware kit install. (Trailing arm and shock relocation brackets). I'm currently running stock rear shocks and looking to upgrade. Since I'm running the DJM shock relocation brackets, there's no need to buy drop shocks correct? So I assume I should just get a quality, stock length rear shock?
Any advantage/disadvantage of running a drop shock with the shock relocation brackets?
Thanks!

 

[Doug118]

Rear is currently at 4.5in drop.
I've got the DJM hardware kit install. (Trailing arm and shock relocation brackets). I'm currently running stock rear shocks and looking to upgrade. Since I'm running the DJM shock relocation brackets, there's no need to buy drop shocks correct? So I assume I should just get a quality, stock length rear shock?
Any advantage/disadvantage of running a drop shock with the shock relocation brackets?
Thanks!

You 100% need drop shocks. Belltech Street Performance shocks are what you want

 

[signguy62]

You 100% need drop shocks. Belltech Street Performance shocks are what you want

So drop shocks with the relocation brackets will work? Or am I going to need to remove the relocation brackets.?

 

[Doug118]

So drop shocks with the relocation brackets will work? Or am I going to need to remove the relocation brackets.?

Nope keep the brackets on there

 

[signguy62]

Nope keep the brackets on there

2410FF's are the ones I should get? Or what's better with a 4in spring and shock relocation brackets? Thanks!

 

[Doug118]

2410FF's are the ones I should get? Or what's better with a 4in spring and shock relocation brackets? Thanks!

Yup those are them. They’ll last a very long time on a 4” drop with the extenders. I have them on ~8” suspension drop and they lasted like 3 years

 

[signguy62]

Yup those are them. They’ll last a very long time on a 4” drop with the extenders. I have them on ~8” suspension drop and they lasted like 3 years

Much appreciated

 

[iamdub]

Rear is currently at 4.5in drop.
I've got the DJM hardware kit install. (Trailing arm and shock relocation brackets). I'm currently running stock rear shocks and looking to upgrade. Since I'm running the DJM shock relocation brackets, there's no need to buy drop shocks correct? So I assume I should just get a quality, stock length rear shock?
Any advantage/disadvantage of running a drop shock with the shock relocation brackets?
Thanks!

Doug got you lined out, but for some details as to WHY: The shock relocation brackets (AKA "extenders") lower the mounting point of the shock 2", so you regain 2" of lost travel from the drop. For a 2" drop, the shock would have its full travel and you could use a stock-replacement shock. For a 3" drop, the shock would only be compressed 1" so that's okay. With a 4.5" drop, the stock shock is compressed 4.5". The relocators add 2" of length, so the shock is then "only" compressed 2.5". This is still way too much on a stock-length shock and puts you very close to bottoming out the shock. Drop shocks are shorter to fit in the now reduced space. I think the 2410FF are around 2.x" shorter. These, coupled with the extenders will give you the amount of travel you had before with no danger of bottoming out.

Clearly, you've done the free travel mod and probably the sway bar relocator. The next points of contact are the panhard bar mount (driver side, on the axle) bumping the cross member above it and the sway bar hitting the panhard bar frame mount. Or maybe it's the shock bolt? I forget, but it's on the passenger side. If it hits when taking turns and hitting bumps, you'll hear it and see rubbed metal under there. Minor clearancing with a grinder is all that's needed.

 

[Doug118]

Doug got you lined out, but for some details as to WHY: The shock relocation brackets (AKA "extenders") lower the mounting point of the shock 2", so you regain 2" of lost travel from the drop. For a 2" drop, the shock would have its full travel and you could use a stock-replacement shock. For a 3" drop, the shock would only be compressed 1" so that's okay. With a 4.5" drop, the stock shock is compressed 4.5". The relocators add 2" of length, so the shock is then "only" compressed 2.5". This is still way too much on a stock-length shock and puts you very close to bottoming out the shock. Drop shocks are shorter to fit in the now reduced space. I think the 2410FF are around 2.x" shorter. These, coupled with the extenders will give you the amount of travel you had before with no danger of bottoming out.

Clearly, you've done the free travel mod and probably the sway bar relocator. The next points of contact are the panhard bar mount (driver side, on the axle) bumping the cross member above it and the sway bar hitting the panhard bar frame mount. Or maybe it's the shock bolt? I forget, but it's on the passenger side. If it hits when taking turns and hitting bumps, you'll hear it and see rubbed metal under there. Minor clearancing with a grinder is all that's needed.

It’s the shock bolt on the passenger side. You have to go very low to hit the panhard bar mount on the pass side

 

[iamdub]

It’s the shock bolt on the passenger side. You have to go very low to hit the panhard bar mount on the pass side

Thanks for the reminder/clarification. It's been a while.

I remember now what got me thinking about the passenger/frame side panhard mount- I had to clearance it after the new sway bar. I'm "only" at 4.5" rear drop but that fat bar took up the few millimeters of clearance.

 

[Doug118]

Thanks for the reminder/clarification. It's been a while.

I remember now what got me thinking about the passenger/frame side panhard mount- I had to clearance it after the new sway bar. I'm "only" at 4.5" rear drop but that fat bar took up the few millimeters of clearance.

You have any pictures of how you did it? I don’t run a sway bar in the rear but really want to install one. A bigger one would be nice

 

[iamdub]

You have any pictures of how you did it? I don’t run a sway bar in the rear but really want to install one. A bigger one would be nice

Of course! I document almost everything. The adventure starts here with solution on the next page:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1738131



If your ADD requires pics only-

Before, with bar hitting panhard mount:

After, with lots of clearance:

 

[NORCAL SS]

Dont forget my new links. Chromoly/3-6 drop range/mo questions asked warranty/built per order/swaybar lock/grade 8 bigger bolt upgrade (kills slop which can be seen the oem bolts leave behind)/includes hardware to install also

 

[NORCAL SS]

Oh and for the kit my combo which pricing I pretty much have best on if you go route on the belltech parts

Spindles bell
shocks bell
Rear spacers bell
Rear my 6" springs
Rear extenders shocks belltech
Rear apoc arm kit and panhard
Rear helpers
Rear bumpstops for free travel mod
Rear my HD endlink upgrade

2250 shipped to your door for those parts with tax