Replacing torque converter without a lift and using floor jack/trans jack, what is needed?

[dkad260]

Slightly long-winded but....I have been wanting to do this for a while, at least a year. I have a spare front diff in the vehicle now and want to rebuild my OE front diff, I also have a spare transfer case I want to rebuild before swapping into the Yukon and when I do rebuild the transfer case, that's when I would like to possibly swap the converter, when I have the T case out of the way. This has been on the back burner for over a year and while outside the scope of this thread, I have been waiting as we were dealing with the decline of my mom's health for a while and she sadly passed earlier this year. So with that I'm trying to get back underway and it also helps clear the head as this is what I enjoy doing. I look around and see a bunch of projects that have been paused and I want to get these taken care of.

With the TC out of the way, what is needed to get the 6L80E out of the way enough to swap the converter, likely change a couple seals in the front of the trans, as well as the rear main seal. Should I replace the rear main seal if it's not leaking? I would assume yes. I've removed a few TH350's but the 6L80 looks a bit porky and maybe too much "unsteadiness" for a floor jack and a cradle...how would I wrestle it back into place. I would think a trans jack and maybe a "money maker" extension and swivel socket for the top trans bolts?

I can easlily get the vehicle raised a bit but don't want to go too far out of reach of a trans jack. If anyone has done this, please share your tips and tricks..all input is greatly appreciated.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I'm sorry to read about your Mom's passing, and yes, some other enjoyable activities to dig into will assist you in the transition to life without her.

Just a thought to reduce the overall complexity of your project (of course, less complexity will result in additional out of pocket cost). Since you already have an extra available front differential and transfer case to work on, why not rebuild them yourself at you own pace, and when complete, take the 2 rebuilt components and your truck to a trusted local repair shop, and let them make the swap, using their lift. While on the lift, they can also replace the seals and install a new torque converter.

This will save you some back-breaking work under the truck, and it will be a lot safer for you.

 

[dkad260]

I'm sorry to read about your Mom's passing, and yes, some other enjoyable activities to dig into will assist you in the transition to life without her.

Just a thought to reduce the overall complexity of your project (of course, less complexity will result in additional out of pocket cost). Since you already have an extra available front differential and transfer case to work on, why not rebuild them yourself at you own pace, and when complete, take the 2 rebuilt components and your truck to a trusted local repair shop, and let them make the swap, using their lift. While on the lift, they can also replace the seals and install a new torque converter.

This will save you some back-breaking work under the truck, and it will be a lot safer for you.

Thanks, I appreciate that


I did reach out to a few shops and I'm looking at $1500 just to R&R the converter and that's me providing the converter. Bringing the rebuilt transfer case makes sense but man, maybe I'm out of the loop but $1500 seems steep for that amount of labor just to pull the trans and put it back..(Metro D.C. area)

I'm sure there's some shops that have a different rate but I just need to find them.

If I can get a trans jack and just maneuver it back a few feet I don't mind the labor, just not sure of any snags I can get into doing this on the ground.

 

[strutaeng]

For sure transmission jack. I highly recommend a helper.

Secure the transmission to the jack before lowering and that will minimize hazard of dropping it and causing damage to the unit or injury.

Replace the torque converter lockup oring as well. It's pretty inexpensive and easy to replace.

Good idea on the engine RMS.

Good luck.

 

[skpyle]

Hello dkad260!

I have just completed a similar job to this. Please start at post #27 in my thread here:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2013-escalade-esv-dod-full-delete-becoming-rebuild.156091/




It may give you some ideas and insight in what you want to do.

Good Luck!

 

[SpareParts]

The transfer case is actually not that heavy. I can put it in myself bench press style and if i can do it anyone can do it.

 

[dkad260]

I have just completed a similar job to this. Please start at post #27 in my thread here:

Will do, thanks.

The transfer case is actually not that heavy. I can put it in myself bench press style and if i can do it anyone can do it.

Yeah, the transfer case looks to be a snap...but the trans laying on the ground looks to be a pita.

 

[solli5pack]

Here's my story. Laying on my back the whole time. The little scissor lift from Harbour freight is a must and a creeper will make it a lot easier. My must do advice is
#1 remove the intake for easier access to the top bellhousing bolts.
#2 use the strap on the lift to secure the trans or it's gonna slip off and spill 3 quarts of tranny fluid. I didn't lift my truck that high and left the trans on the lift under my truck while I worked on the rear main.

Rear Main

What's up everyone. I'm finally going to deal with the leaking rear main seal on my 10 Burb. Quotes around me are like $2500 for the job so I'm going to do it in my driveway. Not something I wanted to diy but the budget is forcing me. Maybe I can use the money I save for a new driveway since...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[West 1]

I just did mine a couple months back, I did replace the RMS, the plate gasket and the Barbell. I used a new OEM GM barbell since the original went 150,000 without failure I was not afraid of the oem part.

I have a Harbor freight tranny jack, I bolted a 5/8" x 14 x 20" piece of plywood to the top of the tranny jack. This allowed me to better hold the tranny in place at the correct angle to slip it back in when it was time for install.

Drain the tranny first before you remove it. Saves a lot of mess later. Removing the intake manifold for upper bolt access is a great idea. I did those bolts with a 3' extension and I bet it took 2 hours for the top two bolts alone.

I have large truck jack stands and had my Yukon lifted about 20" to give easy access.

If you have not installed a new torque converter before really study up before installing your new part. I think there are 3 unique gears that need to mesh before the torque converter will slide all the way in. It is a slow process, you spin the torque converter
while supporting it so it is as straight as possible. It will slip into the first gear set, keep spinning and pressing it in and it will slip in a little more on the second gear set. On mine I bet I spun it 100 full rotations while balancing it and pressing it in to get it to slide into the third gear set. If you do not get it fully engaged in all three you can't install the tranny. Be patient. I have had them slip in in less than 5 minutes effort and had them take more than 30 minutes. It helps if you can support the torque converter so it is as straight as possible as you spin it and slip it in. There are Youtube videos showing how to do this.

 

[dkad260]

The little scissor lift from Harbour freight is a must

The reviews are biased towards positive, some say it's sketchy..but curious to your thoughts on it as far as stability.

I have a Harbor freight tranny jack, I bolted a 5/8" x 14 x 20" piece of plywood to the top of the tranny jack

The thick plywood is a good idea, thanks. Was that the scissor jack or the 800# model?

The scisssor jack I can use for other projects, and looks to tuck away nicely.

 

[GMCChevy]

I've always done transmissions on stands with a normal jack and a friend to help keep it balanced on the jack. Truck or car only jacked up as high as it needs to be which sometimes means jacking it up higher to pull the trans out from underneath... probably not a problem being a truck.

Keep note of how far the torque converter is in so that you know the new one is seated properly. Jamb some folded up cardboard in there where you can reach it to hold it in place.

 

[solli5pack]

The reviews are biased towards positive, some say it's sketchy..but curious to your thoughts on it as far as stability.


The thick plywood is a good idea, thanks. Was that the scissor jack or the 800# model?

The scisssor jack I can use for other projects, and looks to tuck away nicely.

The scissor lift is acceptable but it can be a little wobbly when it's elevated and has weight on it so you gotta be careful but nothing terrible. I also used it on my front diff when I pulled it out. I do wish it had wheel locks. It does fold down real low and stores nicely under the work bench.

 

[MWD_CTSV]

Replacing the torque converter on the ground is doable with a good low profile hydraulic transmission jack that can tilt. The hardest part for me was moving the trans in/out from between the frame rails and off/on the jack, so just moving back a short distance out and back is much better. Some of the bolts are easier from the top as already noted mainly because of the additional brackets. I did mine when I already had the intake off for other work, so I don't know if it is worth removing just for the transmission, but it is still the safest bet to avoid frustration doing it the first time.
Replacing the factory JBMX converter between 150K-200K is the single biggest longevity extension you can get on the 11+ 6L80 as they already have most of the upgraded internal parts. Other than time it is a relatively low cost high reward option.
If you do the rear main seal, and alignment tool is a must and remember to thread in the oil pan bolts first because they are the hardest to locate in position.

 

[West 1]

I used the small sizzor type Harbor freight jack, with the tranny properly balanced on the stand it worked fine. I think I used a small piece of 2x4 maybe 10" long under the front of the tranny to get my angle correct for install. It was strapped down tight to the tranny jack.

 

[Dirty looks]

I can tell you that the balance point with the transfer case attached is just in front of the cross member. A floor jack, a short 2×4 on top of the jack, and two ratchet straps hooked frame rail to frame rail just to catch it if something goes wrong will get it out and back in. I left the cross member attached to the tranny during the process, it makes a convenient handle to steady things.

 

[donjetman]

when I did mine, Harbor Freight lawn mower jack, I use it for a lot of various jobs,

 

[West 1]

Nice to have tools in the shed!

 

[rdezs]

The reviews are biased towards positive, some say it's sketchy..but curious to your thoughts on it as far as stability.


The thick plywood is a good idea, thanks. Was that the scissor jack or the 800# model?

The scisssor jack I can use for other projects, and looks to tuck away nicely.

I can also confirm that inexpensive harbor freight transmission jack, with a piece of plywood works really well. Used it on an Escalade and a Hummer H2 to simply roll the transmission back, to do the rear main, cover and barbell. I've also used it to assist on front differentials, particularly on the H2 which weighs a lot more than the Escalade. Most recent use was lowering the Escalade fuel tank to do the fuel pump, with about three quarters of tank of fuel. Not a problem.

 

[West 1]

The piece of plywood makes the tranny jack much more functional. I have done a few front diffs with it along with 3 transmission jobs now. So far the jack has worked and kept the load stable.