Rear Main

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alvocado

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@solli5pack post back after install if you think it was worth pulling the intake manifold to access the top housing bolts. I've always debated if it's better to struggle to get the bolts from below or make access at the top.
 

Charlie207

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@solli5pack post back after install if you think it was worth pulling the intake manifold to access the top housing bolts. I've always debated if it's better to struggle to get the bolts from below or make access at the top.

It's probably worth pulling the intake (it's really not that hard, just some bolts, electrical connectors, and the $5 fuel line separator) to PMCS the valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, valley pan gasket if the rear-main seal is needing to be replaced. And, to retorque all the bolts on the top of the engine.
 

rdezs

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@solli5pack post back after install if you think it was worth pulling the intake manifold to access the top housing bolts. I've always debated if it's better to struggle to get the bolts from below or make access at the top.

For the past 10 or 15 years, my automatically just pulled the intake. Usually I'm going in for a rear cover/rear main seal.... And I want to make sure there's no oil leaks from up above as well. Those valley cover /and in some cases VLOM bolts/ usually have a few loose anyway. On the earlier engines, that camshaft position sensor at the rear of the block usually contributes to oil leaks back there.

Pretty much a no-brainer to do a quality job, plus it does make it so much easier. It also allows you to lower the tail end of the transmission if you need to, without risk of the plastic intake hitting the firewall.
 
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solli5pack

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@solli5pack post back after install if you think it was worth pulling the intake manifold to access the top housing bolts. I've always debated if it's better to struggle to get the bolts from below or make access at the top.
I got everything back in. Just waiting on the starter connector that broke to start it. 100% Its worth pulling the intake. Laying on my back in the driveway there's no way I would've ever gotten to those top bellhouisng bolts. The fact that there's brackets mounted on the bolts makes it even more difficult. I can't speak as far as on a lift and you tube mechanics make it look pretty easy with long extensions and special tight clearance swivels but you get different angles of attack with that method. At this point I can get the intake off in about 30 minutes so definitely worth it.
 

alvocado

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I got everything back in. Just waiting on the starter connector that broke to start it. 100% Its worth pulling the intake. Laying on my back in the driveway there's no way I would've ever gotten to those top bellhouisng bolts. The fact that there's brackets mounted on the bolts makes it even more difficult. I can't speak as far as on a lift and you tube mechanics make it look pretty easy with long extensions and special tight clearance swivels but you get different angles of attack with that method. At this point I can get the intake off in about 30 minutes so definitely worth it.
Sold!
 
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solli5pack

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Well she's back on the road. Everything seems fine and no oil leaks as of yet! Noticed the thermostat housing leaking so gotta deal with that and the passenger side manifold might be leaking at the connector but that's about it. I put in a new oil pressure sensor but it's reading the same as the old one. Ever since I did my AFM delete I have pretty high oil pressure. Idle around 30, driving about 50 but if I mash the pedal I can pretty much peg the gauge at 80. Not sure what that's about. Is to high of oil pressure a problem? The screen in the sensor port is removed. Much thanks to everyone with the helpful advice!
 
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Ohh and another wierd thing. Filling up the transfer case when it's in the truck it topped off at about a quart and a half. I still can't figure out why when I tried filling it out of the truck and level it took 3 quarts and could've kept going...
 

rdezs

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Oil pressures sound really good...
If you look at your transfer case while it's mounted on the back of the transmission, there's not a lot of height difference between the drain plug and the fill plug. And all the fluid it's kept on the left side. Laying flat, the right side of the transfer case was filling up.... Well at least you gave it a good rinse, Lol
 

alvocado

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I decided to tackle this job this weekend after procrastinating and reading @solli5pack work through it. Tear down went smoothly as did the rear cover replacement. Things went south when I dumped the trans off the jack by getting too bold and not strapping it down.

It's bolted in after hours of struggling to get it back on the jack and onto the dowel pins with some help from my college-aged son.

Questions:

1) when I reinstalled the shift cable, I had to move the shift lever all the way forward for the cable to mate up. It's possible the lever got pushed to the rear in the toppling but I want to confirm the forward most position is PARK and if not, will the transmission adjust upon startup.

2) I lost what looked like at least 4-5 quarts of trans fluid while the unit was on the side. I think it drained out of the cooler line holes. The torque converter didn't move and remains dry. I needed a few minutes to yell profanity, collect myself after the direct hit to the chest and left arm, then jumped back in before I could wrestle it upright. Should I be concerned about the unit sitting on its side for a bit?

In case anyone is wondering, it takes 70 lbs of dry cat litter to soak up a mess like that.
 

rdezs

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OMG you had a day! If anything, dumping that extra transmission fluid is a good thing. It just means you'll start off with a higher percentage of new ATF.
Can't remember about the shifter mechanism. Assuming you didn't move the shifter in the vehicle, I would just say adjust your linkage to where it fits the shift cable.

You do want at least a quart of ATF in the torque converter on assembly.

I'd have to say relax, no harm done. Just the bunch bunch of kitty litter.
 

alvocado

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I did not remove the torque converter since the transmission was rebuilt in January, otherwise I would have preventatively replaced it. I believe the fluid actually drained out of the fill hole on the right side as I popped it 180 degrees to get it off my left elbow before crawling out.

If this is the case, is it safe to assume the TC still has enough fluid? It's bolted up so I planned to add a few quarts and top off as it warms up to get it to full.
 

rdezs

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I doubt the torque converter would have drained. Transmission laying on its side or right side up, the torque converter is still going to hold ATF.

My guess is you might actually use 10 and 1/2 quarts, so have 12 ready.

Oh ... And you better take a bunch of ibuprofen tonight, you're going to be hurting in the morning :cool:
 

alvocado

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I'm having one heck of a time getting the fluid dipstick back in. It came out pretty easily but I can't get it up high enough for it to insert into the transmission. I wasn't successful dropping in from above due to the bracket. Any advice?
 
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solli5pack

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I'm having one heck of a time getting the fluid dipstick back in. It came out pretty easily but I can't get it up high enough for it to insert into the transmission. I wasn't successful dropping in from above due to the bracket. Any advice?
You're supposed to put in the dipstick tube as the trans is lifted in. I forgot this part as well. I lowered the tail of the trans as far as possible and pushed the tube up from the bottom and got it just high enough to slip in. I had to bend the tube bracket back to do it and then after it was in bended the bracket back in place.
 

rdezs

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I always put mine in right before doing the transmission mount. I've never been able to get it in from underneath.... Always from above. Sort of like a puzzle rotating it. I actually raise up the tail end of the transmission and inch or two which gives you room to put it in from above.
 

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