Rear Main

[rdezs]

Yes, that is the correct procedure.

Personally I deviate from that a little bit. I put the rear cover bolts in finger tight, then about 1/2 turn of each bolt. Then I install and tighten the long bolts from the oil pan to the desired torque. Then I torque the rear cover plate.

The point in the way I do is to make sure that rear cover is completely up against the block before tightening the pan bolts. I always felt that if I tightened the pan bolts first, and the lower part of the rear cover wasn't already compressing the rubber part of the gasket against the block.... It just seems you could end up with a slight oil leak at the lower part of the rear cover. That's not by the book, but that's how I've always done it and it's always worked fine

 

[rdezs]

Just occurred to me.... The one item not mentioned is to use the alignment tool for the rear cover. Should have mentioned insert the alignment tool, then proceed with the bolt sequence.... Been removed the alignment tool and insert the rear main seal.

About the only time the tool isn't needed, as if the oil pan is not attached. Then you could go ahead and install the rear cover with the rear main seal already installed in it.... Then start the bolts finger tight, keep in mind the seal is keeping it centered. In that scenario I do tighten the rear cover bolts first, then when the oil pan gets installed I do that.

Pay attention to the instructions on the rear main. The new seals go on dry, and that means completely dry with not even an oil residue. They are known to leak if there's a film of oil on the crankshaft or the seal when installed.

 

[solli5pack]

Just occurred to me.... The one item not mentioned is to use the alignment tool for the rear cover. Should have mentioned insert the alignment tool, then proceed with the bolt sequence.... Been removed the alignment tool and insert the rear main seal.

About the only time the tool isn't needed, as if the oil pan is not attached. Then you could go ahead and install the rear cover with the rear main seal already installed in it.... Then start the bolts finger tight, keep in mind the seal is keeping it centered. In that scenario I do tighten the rear cover bolts first, then when the oil pan gets installed I do that.

Pay attention to the instructions on the rear main. The new seals go on dry, and that means completely dry with not even an oil residue. They are known to leak if there's a film of oil on the crankshaft or the seal when installed.

Got it! I used it. I have the alingment tool from when I did the AFM delete. Currently waiting on the torque converter to soak up a quart of ATF...

 

[solli5pack]

Are the doughnut seals for the exhaust reusable or should they be replaced?

 

[alvocado]

I reuse the passenger side donut seal and always replace the left side crush ring.

 

[solli5pack]

Anyone have the part # for the rear output transfer case seal? Having some trouble finding it and aftermarket is not working out.

 

[rdezs]

Which transfer case do you have?

 

[solli5pack]

Which transfer case do you have?

This tell you?

 

[solli5pack]

This is the seal

 

[rdezs]

Looking on rockauto.com, there's like three or four possibilities. Borg Warner 4482 and the 4485 which is a one speed. You should be able to find that on the rear cover.

Then there's the M3023, two speed transfer case. One version is a manual shift, the other has a switch on the dash.

Take a photo of the RPO label, usually it is affixed in the glove box.