Rear Main

[rdezs]

There's no shimming on these like on the old small block Chevys.

You are supposed to replace the starter bolts when you remove them.

Also, don't forget that heat shield that snaps on top of the solenoid. It's actually necessary.

When you bolted your flex plate back on, all bolts finger tight, then criss cross pattern in three stages to the final torque setting?

That's about all I can think about regarding starter noise. Other than triple checking the part number and the application perhaps?

 

[rdezs]

.... Those starter bolts are torque to yield, which is why they're one-time use only. They stretch out once they're torque to the proper spec. So when you remove them you end up with the bolt that's slightly longer. It may in fact end up bottoming out, a torque wrench clicks, but the clamping force just isn't there. If you reused them, get a new set and use the torque wrench. That's the most likely scenario of the starter making noise I think

 

[j91z28d1]

as for acdelco, only the OE level is the OE stuff, anything lower like gold or professional is just the same as your local auto parts store, just rebranded. they fit me too years ago with cheap parts I didn't realizes wasn't better than auto zone cheapest.


of you replaced the flywheel, it could be that. if it's the original, it's probably the starter. try another one.

 

[alvocado]

.... Those starter bolts are torque to yield, which is why they're one-time use only. They stretch out once they're torque to the proper spec. So when you remove them you end up with the bolt that's slightly longer. It may in fact end up bottoming out, a torque wrench clicks, but the clamping force just isn't there. If you reused them, get a new set and use the torque wrench. That's the most likely scenario of the starter making noise I think

I reused the starter bolts and didn't realize they were one time use so they will get replaced. I paint marked the starter drive gear and position looked good. It may just be a noisier starter motor than the factory unit. A buddy listened and didn't hear anything out of the ordinary.

 

[j91z28d1]

I reused the starter bolts and didn't realize they were one time use so they will get replaced. I paint marked the starter drive gear and position looked good. It may just be a noisier starter motor than the factory unit. A buddy listened and didn't hear anything out of the ordinary.

do you still have the old starter? was it just not retracting and gear touching the flywheel? if so, you can probably put the new starters solenoid onto the old starter. I've done this instead of replacing oem starters since everything new is just terrible these days. can't trust anything anymore.

I've also reused ls starter bolts over and over for years without issues. I've never even heard of anything replacing starter bolts.

if anyone wants to go down the tty bolt rabbit hole, sloppy mechanics and even torque test Channel have tested them every way possible. they still work fine, the bolt doesn't get weaker, it actually work hardenens as it yealds. only real issues is knowing what spec to tq the used bolt too, since the degree method isn't correct a 2nd time. most of that info is out there on the net thou. guys have runs 8s in the 1/4 on used oem head gaskets and head bolts used many times just to prove the point. these high end tq wrenches that do degrees built in, once you've tighten a new tty bolt to spec, you can click over to see what the actual final ft was. which is good to know, they should all be pretty close. also make a note of it and if you need reused them for some reason. Just retorqe to the average of what they were originally tighten to.

 

[alvocado]

do you still have the old starter? was it just not retracting and gear touching the flywheel? if so, you can probably put the new starters solenoid onto the old starter. I've done this instead of replacing oem starters since everything new is just terrible these days. can't trust anything anymore.

I've also reused ls starter bolts over and over for years without issues. I've never even heard of anything replacing starter bolts.

if anyone wants to go down the tty bolt rabbit hole, sloppy mechanics and even torque test Channel have tested them every way possible. they still work fine, the bolt doesn't get weaker, it actually work hardenens as it yealds. only real issues is knowing what spec to tq the used bolt too, since the degree method isn't correct a 2nd time. most of that info is out there on the net thou. guys have runs 8s in the 1/4 on used oem head gaskets and head bolts used many times just to prove the point. these high end tq wrenches that do degrees built in, once you've tighten a new tty bolt to spec, you can click over to see what the actual final ft was. which is good to know, they should all be pretty close. also make a note of it and if you need reused them for some reason. Just retorqe to the average of what they were originally tighten to.

I do have the factory starter and the issue was with the solenoid not retracting the drive gear. You could hear it smacking the flywheel when running.

I believe the new Delco unit is just a noisier motor. When you drive a truck for 14 years, subtle differences are noticeable but probably not discernable to others.

 

[j91z28d1]

yeah, if it's not bad. probably not much to worry about. I've put new starters and flywheels on old stuff and it screams while cranking. cheap junk on old equipment they doesn't make oem stuff for anymore. had to mix and match to make it live long enough to be useful.

hopefully alls good.

 

[rdezs]

LOL.... Those are blind holes for the starter mount. Take a micrometer to TTY bolts after they've been torqued. They're a little bit longer. You hit the bottom of the hole, you'll tighten to the torque..... But they're just not holding the starter down tight enough.

 

[alvocado]

I decided to order a replacement starter and installed the second unit today. Sadly, I think these made in China AC Delco Gold units are just plain noisy vs. the factory starter. I'll learn to live with it unless I get motivated to swap out the solenoid on the original starter motor.

I'm calling this job complete although my driver's side motor mount is now shot. It seems awfully coincidental and I can only suspect putting pressure on the mount by lowering the engine during the seal replacement maybe caused it. It was an Oreilly's Power Torque mount with 75k miles on it. It looks like I have a project for next weekend.

 

[solli5pack]

I debated replacing my starter, it's original and especially since I'm driving down to Florida next week but I held off. It's never given me a problem so I decided to go with the "If it's not broken don't fix it"route. Plus whenever I try to replace something that's not broken I end up getting myself into ever more problems. I used regular GM mounts on both my trucks when I replaced them but others seem to like the Hummer mounts better due to them lasting forever.

 

[mikez71]

I debated replacing my starter, it's original and ..... It's never given me a problem so I decided to go with the "If it's not broken don't fix it"route.

That's how I felt, until I was holding the old starter in my hand and shaking it, felt like a can of bolts!
Mine was still retracting and functioning fine, but all the parts felt so loose in every direction.
I couldn't bring myself to re-install it and ordered a new one.

Delco gold is also made in China and looks exactly like the pictures of the Wai Global brand on rockauto...
If I had to do it again, I would probably save myself the $60..

 

[donjetman]

I debated replacing my starter, it's original and especially since I'm driving down to Florida next week but I held off. It's never given me a problem so I decided to go with the "If it's not broken don't fix it"route. Plus whenever I try to replace something that's not broken I end up getting myself into ever more problems. I used regular GM mounts on both my trucks when I replaced them but others seem to like the Hummer mounts better due to them lasting forever.

In 2018 I replaced my started when doing my rear main seal, etc, etc. It was $60 from amazon, quite and still going strong 7+ yrs and 70k miles later. I looked just now and they have gone up $5, brand is OEG.

 

[solli5pack]

She made it from Jersey to Florida with no issues and for the first time in 10 years no oil dripping underneath! Trans temps averaged around 180. Ride home Friday.

 

[PG01]

She made it from Jersey to Florida with no issues and for the first time in 10 years no oil dripping underneath! Trans temps averaged around 180. Ride home Friday.
View attachment 462548

But just think, that oil drip was keeping the rust away…..now you gotta spray the entire bottom of the truck with used oil… or atf .. your choice……..

 

[Sagmanovich183]

She made it from Jersey to Florida with no issues and for the first time in 10 years no oil dripping underneath! Trans temps averaged around 180. Ride home Friday.
View attachment 462548

Nice Tahoe! This thread has been therapeutic, as my 2009 Yukon appears to have developed a bad main seal around the NYC GW bridge.

I also drive a ton, 20 trips between Boston and NC Outer Banks in two years and we break it down this Friday, 8/29.

My fingers will be crossed and at least I have the week to collect parts you guys posted and PB Blast & break lose some bolts.