Rear main seal leak? Pics attached

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m1dn

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Been putting off looking into what causes oil drips on the driveway for the winter and it’s finally warming up here on Detroit border in Canada, nice n sunny by the Lake.

So far I’ve figured the drops happen more often when i park it uphill with engine and when parked engine downhill, only 1 drop after long drives.
Haven’t had to add any oil between oil changes yet.

Cleaned her up underneath, put front wheel on ramps and kept running until fully warmed up.
Finally was able to locate where the oil is accumulating, wiped and few minutes later it’s in the same spot again.

Is this a precise location for the rear main seal or there is something else in that part that would leak?
Surprisingly i had taken off the cover plate few times before and everything looked dry inside.

Anyway, pics attached, hopefully someone can confirm!

And if it’s rear main, what else would you recommend getting replaced while the tranny is out? Oil pan and pickup tube while got access? Or just do the seal.

Will not be doing it myself, doing it at home on ramps sounds like pita, will have a neighbor take it to his shop.
 

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91RS

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That could be the rear main or the oil pan. Since you can do them separate, I recommend starting with the oil pan since it is easier (cheaper if you're paying a shop).
 

B-train

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Agreed. I went down the cheaper road myself only to find out it was a RMS the whole time. Hopefully you get lucky and its not. It's a PITA job to do the RMS, so mine just parks on cardboard until I decide if it's worth putting that kind of money into.
 
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m1dn

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Thanks folks, i decided not to risk it with cheaper path as i'll end up paying more doing them separately of RMS is the leak :)

The car is more like a "toy i always wanted" rather than beater, so i don't mind throwing some money to make it look and drive nice!
Ordered oil pan, picktup tube, filter and neighbor is going to take care of RMS with both rear seals and new cover.
Let's make it nice and tidy!
 

donjetman

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@m1dn :
In late 2018 I did a rear main seal etc job on our 130k mile 07 awd 6.2L 6L80e Denali. Today it has 185k miles and still no leaks.

Rear main seal & cover – Dorman 635-518 - $43
Torque Converter – Precision brand pt# P4646 - $218
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft oring – GM# 24219390 - $10
AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8
Main serpentine belt – 6K935 - $19
Frt sway bar bushings – Moog# K200222 - $7
Starter – 6757N - $60
Transfer Case ATF w/3 pts Amsoil (ATL) ATF - $16
Transmission fluid, 10 qts, w/Dexron VI, $75
Tranny filter – PTC brand# F247 - $34
New Updated Valve cover, driverside – GM# 12570427 - $117
Oil pan gasket – GM# 12612350 - $36
Oil pickup o-ring – Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9
Trans cooler line 1 – ACDelco 15779543 - $16
Trans cooler lines 2 – ACDelco 25999420 - $56
Trans cooler clips- ACDelco# 24205103 - $10
Trans cooler to engine block gasket - $7

Here's a couple of threads I did w/pics you might b interested in:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/engine-oil-pan-gasket-change-6-2-yukon-l92.108487/
 
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m1dn

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@m1dn :
In late 2018 I did a rear main seal etc job on our 130k mile 07 awd 6.2L 6L80e Denali. Today it has 185k miles and still no leaks.

Rear main seal & cover – Dorman 635-518 - $43
Torque Converter – Precision brand pt# P4646 - $218
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft oring – GM# 24219390 - $10
AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8
Main serpentine belt – 6K935 - $19
Frt sway bar bushings – Moog# K200222 - $7
Starter – 6757N - $60
Transfer Case ATF w/3 pts Amsoil (ATL) ATF - $16
Transmission fluid, 10 qts, w/Dexron VI, $75
Tranny filter – PTC brand# F247 - $34
New Updated Valve cover, driverside – GM# 12570427 - $117
Oil pan gasket – GM# 12612350 - $36
Oil pickup o-ring – Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9
Trans cooler line 1 – ACDelco 15779543 - $16
Trans cooler lines 2 – ACDelco 25999420 - $56
Trans cooler clips- ACDelco# 24205103 - $10
Trans cooler to engine block gasket - $7

Here's a couple of threads I did w/pics you might b interested in:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/engine-oil-pan-gasket-change-6-2-yukon-l92.108487/
Thank you, sounds like the car served you well and it was totally worth it!
 

OR VietVet

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Yea, I was gonna suggest a new torque convertor and the seal and at least flush out the oil cooler lines and trans cooler lines while apart. The output shafts seals as well.

Hell, while you are at it, do the u-joints or at least inspect thoroughly.
 

Logani

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My 02 Tahoe (285K mi) rains oil. This thread affirms my suspicion of the RMS. With oil at $8 a qt, I need to do something about it soon. New to Atlanta area and few tools, unfortunately. Anyone know anyone in the area who'll rent me their shop stall or garage (with tools)??

I'm also concerned about the oil flashing into a fire as it smolders on the exhaust crossover section. Has anyone seen this happen? Should I install a heat wrap on this section of exhaust until I make the needed repair?
 

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m1dn

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For anyone wondering - doing rms with oil pan at the same time was a right call.
My mechanic said both were leaking once apart, rms cover had loose bolts.

Should be picking up her today or tomorrow.

Replaced: rms with cover plate, oil pan with all parts, oil pickup gasket, tranny cooler lines
 

davidavidd

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Been putting off looking into what causes oil drips on the driveway for the winter and it’s finally warming up here on Detroit border in Canada, nice n sunny by the Lake.

So far I’ve figured the drops happen more often when i park it uphill with engine and when parked engine downhill, only 1 drop after long drives.
Haven’t had to add any oil between oil changes yet.

Cleaned her up underneath, put front wheel on ramps and kept running until fully warmed up.
Finally was able to locate where the oil is accumulating, wiped and few minutes later it’s in the same spot again.

Is this a precise location for the rear main seal or there is something else in that part that would leak?
Surprisingly i had taken off the cover plate few times before and everything looked dry inside.

Anyway, pics attached, hopefully someone can confirm!

And if it’s rear main, what else would you recommend getting replaced while the tranny is out? Oil pan and pickup tube while got access? Or just do the seal.

Will not be doing it myself, doing it at home on ramps sounds like pita, will have a neighbor take it to his shop.
Hey buddy, check my post https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/serious-engine-oil-leak-tahoe-5-3-2007.126153/
 

Blackcar

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My 02 Tahoe (285K mi) rains oil. This thread affirms my suspicion of the RMS. With oil at $8 a qt, I need to do something about it soon. New to Atlanta area and few tools, unfortunately. Anyone know anyone in the area who'll rent me their shop stall or garage (with tools)??

I'm also concerned about the oil flashing into a fire as it smolders on the exhaust crossover section. Has anyone seen this happen? Should I install a heat wrap on this section of exhaust until I make the needed repair?
Have you looked at valley plate seal and oil pressure sending unit at back of engine close to firewall picture to me look like oil coming down side of trans bell housing.
 

Logani

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Have you looked at valley plate seal and oil pressure sending unit at back of engine close to firewall picture to me look like oil coming down side of trans bell housing.
Yes. Recently replaced knock sensors (and OP sending unit because it was accessible) as well as valve cover gaskets. Was clean in that area. I'll be redoing the job - see my other posts today - and will check it out again. I'm having to add 1.5 qts for every tank of gas. It's embarrassing.
 

Logani

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On second thought, after seeing Davids vids, this could actually be my problem. I may have overlooked it when I had the intake off to replace the knock sensors. I don't think I went that far back (and down) because I wasn't actually looking for it: just a general look-over and a OP sending unit swap. Good stuff. It just seems like more than a rms and the valley plate seal would explain it. Is there pressure behind it or just lots of splashing around?
 

donjetman

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gen4 knock sensors are on the side of the block and they can't cause an oil leak.
 

89Suburban

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On second thought, after seeing Davids vids, this could actually be my problem. I may have overlooked it when I had the intake off to replace the knock sensors. I don't think I went that far back (and down) because I wasn't actually looking for it: just a general look-over and a OP sending unit swap. Good stuff. It just seems like more than a rms and the valley plate seal would explain it. Is there pressure behind it or just lots of splashing around?


If you have DOD/AFM the valley cover does have pressure in it.
 

91RS

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Yes. Recently replaced knock sensors (and OP sending unit because it was accessible) as well as valve cover gaskets. Was clean in that area. I'll be redoing the job - see my other posts today - and will check it out again. I'm having to add 1.5 qts for every tank of gas. It's embarrassing.

You have oil consumption, not a leak. If you were leaking 1.5 quarts of oil every tank of fuel (300 miles or so), the entire underside of your truck would be drenched in oil and your driveway would be black. You could take it to Canada and it would never rust.
 
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m1dn

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If you have DOD/AFM the valley cover does have pressure in it.
Wouldn’t it have pressure without dod anyway since oil pressure sensor is there? Mine is without dod but was pissing oil everywhere around the cover
 

Blackcar

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On second thought, after seeing Davids vids, this could actually be my problem. I may have overlooked it when I had the intake off to replace the knock sensors. I don't think I went that far back (and down) because I wasn't actually looking for it: just a general look-over and a OP sending unit swap. Good stuff. It just seems like more than a rms and the valley plate seal would explain it. Is there pressure behind it or just lots of splashing around?
If you're talking about oil pressure sender there is no pressure if engines off but will leak when running.
 

Logani

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You have oil consumption, not a leak. If you were leaking 1.5 quarts of oil every tank of fuel (300 miles or so), the entire underside of your truck would be drenched in oil and your driveway would be black. You could take it to Canada and it would never rust.
I didn't exaggerate. Will post pictures of my well-preserved undercarriage and the oil slick on my back doors/glass tomorrow. It drips faster than a woman crying while watching a Lifetime movie. When I pull in to Walmart (to buy more oil) in the rain, rainbow dots lead the way to my Tahoe like a Pac Man maze. Gretta Thunberg would put a hit out on my if she knew what a mess I was making. More pics to follow.
 

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