Post DOD Delete engine noises

[Darren2014]

I’m really thinking this has something to do with the timing. Very little to no power, and possible piston to valve contact on cylinder one. I’m wondering if the cam phaser is misaligned from the cam and causing my issue. Or if it’s some other issue with the VVT. I’m debating on deleting it at the moment.

 

[wsteele]

Maybe consider an inexpensive borescope to see if you can determine if the valves in number 1 are actually banging? You may be able to rent one pretty cheaply or buy a cheap one on eBay. I like the ones that come with an LED on the camera end, helps illuminate dark places.

Maybe a quick and dirty dry compression check also might tell you a lot.

 

[randeez]

did you replace the valley cover and/or plug the dod risers?
and did i miss if it was tuned or not?
and when you say stock pushrods - did you reuse the ones you had or stock for a non dod engine?

 

[Darren2014]

did you replace the valley cover and/or plug the dod risers?
and did i miss if it was tuned or not?
and when you say stock pushrods - did you reuse the ones you had or stock for a non dod engine?

I did replace the VLOM with a non DOD valley cover. I didn’t plug the oil towers but the new cover came with internal O-Rings that are supposed to keep oil out. And it has not been tuned yet, but the only tune I planned on running was tuning out DOD via HP tuners. For now I still have a Range AFM disabler plugged into the OBD2 port. And I reused the push rods that came out of the engine. They showed no signs or wear.

 

[randeez]

pushrods - i wasnt sure about them all being the same but google seems to think so so maybe not a problem

range wont cut it, tune needs to be fixed. i think someone on here drove around with the vlom plugged in and laying on top of the engine to be able to drive it in the mean time till they could get tune fixed

 

[Darren2014]

pushrods - i wasnt sure about them all being the same but google seems to think so so maybe not a problem

range wont cut it, tune needs to be fixed. i think someone on here drove around with the vlom plugged in and laying on top of the engine to be able to drive it in the mean time till they could get tune fixed

Unfortunately the VLOM got thrown out a week or so ago.

 

[Darren2014]

And the Range was just s to band aid it to get it back to the town I live in and parked till it could be tuned.

 

[Darren2014]

I’d look at going the blackbear route but I don’t have a laptop to use for it. Unless I could find a long enough cord to plug it in at my house with my PC.

 

[Geotrash]

I’d look at going the blackbear route but I don’t have a laptop to use for it. Unless I could find a long enough cord to plug it in at my house with my PC.

You don’t need a laptop. A desktop or tower pc will do just fine. The only device that goes back and forth to the car is the Autocal device to record the data while you drive and then apply the tune later.

Randeez is right about the tune, but if you’re hearing significant mechanical percussive noise, I would investigate that also, as Bill suggested. At the very least pull a valve cover and turn the engine over slowly by hand to check for interference. I also have a borescope from Amazon that was cheap as chips and works great. Fits in the spark plug holes to check for damage.

I would also pull the timing cover to check that you got the timing marks aligned right.

I went with a 3 bolt cam because I didn’t want the worry of degreeing the cam right.

 

[Darren2014]

You don’t need a laptop. A desktop or tower pc will do just fine. The only device that goes back and forth to the car is the Autocal device to record the data while you drive and then apply the tune later.

Randeez is right about the tune, but if you’re hearing significant mechanical percussive noise, I would investigate that also, as Bill suggested. At the very least pull a valve cover and turn the engine over slowly by hand to check for interference. I also have a borescope from Amazon that was cheap as chips and works great. Fits in the spark plug holes to check for damage.

I would also pull the timing cover to check that you got the timing marks aligned right.

I went with a 3 bolt cam because I didn’t want the worry of degreeing the cam right.

I actually did turn the engine ever by hand once I had the push rods and rockers in, about 5 times just to insure there was no resistance and to make sure every rocker/ valve was operating.

I know my timing marks were correct when I installed the cam phaser aswell. Everything I’m seeing here leads me to thing the Phaser was misaligned and is rotating on the cam bolt. I think my next step is gonna be pulling the timing cover off and removing the phaser to see if anything is going on back there.