PCV, or not to PCV?

[gmartin1215]

I have a 2009 5.3 with 150K miles on it.

I grew up with the fact that PCV are regular maintenance items that must be replaced. However, with this engine, the PCV is part of the rocker cover that can't be pulled or screwed out.

According to this TSB, any model built before Feb 1, 2011, has an older style rocker cover prone to more oil consumption and should be replaced with an updated one if that symptom exists. Given that cut-over date, I likely have the older style cover. Is there a way to check without removing the cover to see where the orifice is located?

My engine burns a little oil (what engine doesn't?), but it's not excessive to where I have to keep adding a lot to it. However, I do get a little bit of burnt oil in the exhaust (not really noticeable unless you are staring at it), but I was attributing that to possibly worn rings. The idle is good, but I wouldn't say it's smooth; the engine shakes a little, but mostly, it's good.

Given the above and age, does it make sense to go ahead and replace the PCV/rocker-cover?

Part of me says, "If ain't broke, don't fix it!" BUT, the other side of me says to "do it," at least for preventative maintenance, and maybe add an oil catch can, too (if those things really work, and the reason I started to get into the PCV research).


What would you do?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

When I did my AFM delete (2008 5.3 Tahoe) I put on the new valve covers and since then I lose almost no oil between oil changes.

I personally think that it is important to make sure that you have a properly working PCV system to avoid positive crankcase pressure, positive crankcase pressure can result in oil being forced out of the motor through seals and gaskets but if you have negative crank case pressure then the negative pressure will help keep oil in the motor instead of leaking out.

Another plus side to doing the new valve covers is you get new valve cover gaskets which is another common source of oil loss.

I haven't added a catch can because of where I live I don't really need one but if your climate fosters condensation then it might not be a bad idea.

 

[iamdub]

I have a 2009 5.3 with 150K miles on it.

I grew up with the fact that PCV are regular maintenance items that must be replaced. However, with this engine, the PCV is part of the rocker cover that can't be pulled or screwed out.

According to this TSB, any model built before Feb 1, 2011, has an older style rocker cover prone to more oil consumption and should be replaced with an updated one if that symptom exists. Given that cut-over date, I likely have the older style cover. Is there a way to check without removing the cover to see where the orifice is located?

Unless you have service records indicating that it was updated, you can't tell without removing it.

My engine burns a little oil (what engine doesn't?), but it's not excessive to where I have to keep adding a lot to it. However, I do get a little bit of burnt oil in the exhaust (not really noticeable unless you are staring at it), but I was attributing that to possibly worn rings. The idle is good, but I wouldn't say it's smooth; the engine shakes a little, but mostly, it's good.

Given the above and age, does it make sense to go ahead and replace the PCV/rocker-cover?

It is absolutely worth updating the cover if it has not been yet. The engine consuming oil is one thing. The coked-up cylinder(s) leading to stuck rings and accelerated wear, loss of compression and even more oil consumption are what eventually follows. That 30 minutes of labor to at least see if you can mitigate the consumption, however minimal it may be (currently), is certainly justified.

Part of me says, "If ain't broke, don't fix it!"

But, technically, it is "broke" by default if it hasn't been updated. And, in time, it could be more broked.

BUT, the other side of me says to "do it," at least for preventative maintenance, and maybe add an oil catch can, too (if those things really work, and the reason I started to get into the PCV research).

Yay! You're already aware of the need for a catch can. They've been shown time and again to be beneficial on these engines. It seems the only ones that have negative experiences are those in climates that allow the catch can to be flooded with water from condensation. I'm in the Gulf south and mine has straight oil in it. I consistently catch 2-3 ounces every 5,000 miles. That's 2-3 ounces less puddling in my intake manifold and dripping into the rear cylinders.

What would you do?

1. I'd check the valve cover and replace it with the updated one if it hasn't been. This easy task won't be in vain at least for the fact that you can get a good look at the inside of your engine to know if you need to alter your oil change routine (intervals or the oil itself).

2. Invest the ~$20 in a catch can. Don't forget to add the stainless steel scrubber pad if it's not already included.

 

[gmartin1215]

Unless you have service records indicating that it was updated, you can't tell without removing it.




It is absolutely worth updating the cover if it has not been yet. The engine consuming oil is one thing. The coked-up cylinder(s) leading to stuck rings and accelerated wear, loss of compression and even more oil consumption are what eventually follows. That 30 minutes of labor to at least see if you can mitigate the consumption, however minimal it may be (currently), is certainly justified.




But, technically, it is "broke" by default if it hasn't been updated. And, in time, it could be more broked.




Yay! You're already aware of the need for a catch can. They've been shown time and again to be beneficial on these engines. It seems the only ones that have negative experiences are those in climates that allow the catch can to be flooded with water from condensation. I'm in the Gulf south and mine has straight oil in it. I consistently catch 2-3 ounces every 5,000 miles. That's 2-3 ounces less puddling in my intake manifold and dripping into the rear cylinders.




1. I'd check the valve cover and replace it with the updated one if it hasn't been. This easy task won't be in vain at least for the fact that you can get a good look at the inside of your engine to know if you need to alter your oil change routing (intervals or the oil itself).

2. Invest the ~$20 in a catch can. Don't forget to add the stainless steel scrubber pad if it's not already included.

what catch can do you have?

 

[gmartin1215]

Unless you have service records indicating that it was updated, you can't tell without removing it.




It is absolutely worth updating the cover if it has not been yet. The engine consuming oil is one thing. The coked-up cylinder(s) leading to stuck rings and accelerated wear, loss of compression and even more oil consumption are what eventually follows. That 30 minutes of labor to at least see if you can mitigate the consumption, however minimal it may be (currently), is certainly justified.




But, technically, it is "broke" by default if it hasn't been updated. And, in time, it could be more broked.




Yay! You're already aware of the need for a catch can. They've been shown time and again to be beneficial on these engines. It seems the only ones that have negative experiences are those in climates that allow the catch can to be flooded with water from condensation. I'm in the Gulf south and mine has straight oil in it. I consistently catch 2-3 ounces every 5,000 miles. That's 2-3 ounces less puddling in my intake manifold and dripping into the rear cylinders.




1. I'd check the valve cover and replace it with the updated one if it hasn't been. This easy task won't be in vain at least for the fact that you can get a good look at the inside of your engine to know if you need to alter your oil change routing (intervals or the oil itself).

2. Invest the ~$20 in a catch can. Don't forget to add the stainless steel scrubber pad if it's not already included.

Alos, why the steel scrubber pad?

 

[gmartin1215]

Unless you have service records indicating that it was updated, you can't tell without removing it.




It is absolutely worth updating the cover if it has not been yet. The engine consuming oil is one thing. The coked-up cylinder(s) leading to stuck rings and accelerated wear, loss of compression and even more oil consumption are what eventually follows. That 30 minutes of labor to at least see if you can mitigate the consumption, however minimal it may be (currently), is certainly justified.




But, technically, it is "broke" by default if it hasn't been updated. And, in time, it could be more broked.




Yay! You're already aware of the need for a catch can. They've been shown time and again to be beneficial on these engines. It seems the only ones that have negative experiences are those in climates that allow the catch can to be flooded with water from condensation. I'm in the Gulf south and mine has straight oil in it. I consistently catch 2-3 ounces every 5,000 miles. That's 2-3 ounces less puddling in my intake manifold and dripping into the rear cylinders.




1. I'd check the valve cover and replace it with the updated one if it hasn't been. This easy task won't be in vain at least for the fact that you can get a good look at the inside of your engine to know if you need to alter your oil change routing (intervals or the oil itself).

2. Invest the ~$20 in a catch can. Don't forget to add the stainless steel scrubber pad if it's not already included.

Alos, why the steel scrubber pad?

 

[swathdiver]

Alos, why the steel scrubber pad?

It "catches" oil moving through the air.

 

[gmartin1215]

Thanks all!
I ordered the updated rocker cover and the J&L oil catcher (they have a steel mesh built-in).

 

[iamdub]

what catch can do you have?

I have a catchcans.com one. A little pricey compared to the ones on Amazon and eBay that are functionally the same, just a different shape. I bought it in a group purchase (on another forum) waaay back in 2010-2011 for a project but never used it. I've bought two of the $15-20 ones off Amazon and see equal results as my $100+ one.

 

[iamdub]

Alos, why the steel scrubber pad?

It improves the function of the catch can. I forget the exact amounts, but I consistently drained the same amount of oil from the can at each oil change. After adding the scrub pad, I've consistently drained more, like 1-1.5 ounces more.

 

[gmartin1215]

It improves the function of the catch can. I forget the exact amounts, but I consistently drained the same amount of oil from the can at each oil change. After adding the scrub pad, I've consistently drained more, like 1-1.5 ounces more.

Do you just place it in the bottom of the can?

 

[iamdub]

Do you just place it in the bottom of the can?

Check this one out. This is the basic design that does what is needed and without the unnecessary/useless extras: https://a.co/d/23Z9LSZ

Referencing this pic:

The scrub pad would go on that baffle- the round aluminum plate with all the holes in it. So, it's like the pad would be sitting on a shelf. These things work by coalescence. The oil droplets are tiny so they can ride the PCV air stream. When that oily air hits the bronze filter, the tiny oil droplets are forced to collide and stick to each other. Then they are too big and heavy to ride the air stream, so they drip down through the bronze filter. They'd then drop down onto that baffle then, ultimately, down into the bottom of the reservoir. Adding that scrub pad after the bronze filter reduces the "free air time" and keeps the droplets having to travel through media, ensuring they stay stuck together. The air finds its way around and through both medias but the oil gets stuck and just falls down into the reservoir.

You can't have a breather filter on our engines and a dipstick is mostly pointless in these. This can does what you need and has an easy drain on the bottom- all for $20. It doesn't have a sharp-looking CNC-machined company logo, though.

The only downside is you have to make your own mounting bracket. The two I've installed, one on my brother's truck and one on a client's truck, I just used a piece of 1/8 thick x 1" flat stock, about 8" long. They were located on the side of the alternator just like my catchcans.com one and that J&L one. I think that's about the best location- easy access and plenty of space underneath to put a drain cup.


If yours passes a lot of oil between oil changes, here's one with twice the capacity: https://a.co/d/gc5CpLu

This is a 3-pack of the stainless scrubber pads: https://a.co/d/j6a7TPu

 

[Smooth_Rider]

For how inexpensive they are, the catch cans are a no brainer...and once you see the gunk you empty outta there, you'll be glad you're not sending it back through your intake!

 

[gmartin1215]

Check this one out. This is the basic design that does what is needed and without the unnecessary/useless extras: https://a.co/d/23Z9LSZ

Referencing this pic:

View attachment 409955


The scrub pad would go on that baffle- the round aluminum plate with all the holes in it. So, it's like the pad would be sitting on a shelf. These things work by coalescence. The oil droplets are tiny so they can ride the PCV air stream. When that oily air hits the bronze filter, the tiny oil droplets are forced to collide and stick to each other. Then they are too big and heavy to ride the air stream, so they drip down through the bronze filter. They'd then drop down onto that baffle then, ultimately, down into the bottom of the reservoir. Adding that scrub pad after the bronze filter reduces the "free air time" and keeps the droplets having to travel through media, ensuring they stay stuck together. The air finds its way around and through both medias but the oil gets stuck and just falls down into the reservoir.

You can't have a breather filter on our engines and a dipstick is mostly pointless in these. This can does what you need and has an easy drain on the bottom- all for $20. It doesn't have a sharp-looking CNC-machined company logo, though.

The only downside is you have to make your own mounting bracket. The two I've installed, one on my brother's truck and one on a client's truck, I just used a piece of 1/8 thick x 1" flat stock, about 8" long. They were located on the side of the alternator just like my catchcans.com one and that J&L one. I think that's about the best location- easy access and plenty of space underneath to put a drain cup.


If yours passes a lot of oil between oil changes, here's one with twice the capacity: https://a.co/d/gc5CpLu

This is a 3-pack of the stainless scrubber pads: https://a.co/d/j6a7TPu

Awesome! Thanks for the details and links!!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I have a JLT oil catch can, and I'm very happy with it. I capture just under 1 ounce of oil every 1000 miles.

 

[donjetman]

I have the improved GM valve cover called for in the TSB, and a cheap chicom catch can on our 07 Denali 6.2 for 5 yrs. No regrets. It catches about 2 oz per 5000 miles.

 

[gmartin1215]

I have the improved GM valve cover called for in the TSB, and a cheap chicom catch can on our 07 Denali 6.2 for 5 yrs. No regrets. It catches about 2 oz per 5000 miles.
View attachment 410022
View attachment 410023
View attachment 410024

thanks!!

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@gmartin1215 I think another benifit of the catch can is it will give you an idea if you are burning oil. If your oil is low and the catch can only has a little oil in it... well the oil is going somewhere

 

[Hodgeee]

I got a 13, put in an expensive catch can with special oil seperator, after 5000 miles, it has a very insignificant film, thought it was dry. Now my truck has the oil consumption fixes on it as all 2012 and later have. Mine doesnt burn any oil from checking the level.

 

[gmartin1215]

I have a JLT oil catch can, and I'm very happy with it. I capture just under 1 ounce of oil every 1000 miles.

View attachment 409981

Hi Joseph! I got the same catch that you have in your picture.
The longer line that goes from my rocker cover to the can is going into the end where there is a screen inside. Is yours the same way? Just checking to make sure mine did not get installed in the reverse order; the hoses were already attached to the can coming out of the box.