Oil pressure oddity

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swathdiver

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I don't get what happened here? Will I be stuck in this oil change cycle forever? Was the filter clogged, or bad? I just doesn't make a lot of sense to me that new oil is the solution, when the old oil had about 900 miles on it.

I told you what it was Jeremy, the filter. Which filter did you buy and put on?

The K&N HP-2011 has a 1" nut on the end so you can use a wrench or socket to remove it. If you don't want to use that filter, when you do find the one you like, get a filter socket with the same number of "pleats" so it'll fit on it and you can still use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it.
 

Wolfbraid

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I told you what it was Jeremy, the filter. Which filter did you buy and put on?

The K&N HP-2011 has a 1" nut on the end so you can use a wrench or socket to remove it. If you don't want to use that filter, when you do find the one you like, get a filter socket with the same number of "pleats" so it'll fit on it and you can still use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it.

That's still tough to prove if it was the filter. He flushed, and changed the oil.
He'd have to just change the filter to narrow it down.
The flush could have cleaned the pressure sender/screen, it's so hard to say.

I've run the KN Filter, Mobil 1, and currently AC Delco filters and have had the pressure issue(still have it today, although it stopped for a while yesterday and this morning, but was back this afternoon)
oil Change/flush/filter(fram it's all they had) happening tomorrow.
If I'm adventurous I'll pull the sensor and screen for inspection, but it's a PITA so I'll take my chances.
 

BG1988

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So update, after talking with the service writer at the dealership, he suggested I flush the engine and change the oil and filter again. So I did that tonight. A few observations.... one when running the flush, oil pressure still sucked, 20 at idle warm. Checked oil level before flush, was full according to dipstick. Drained oil, oil didn't look too bad, I poured it into some containers for disposal, and came out to about 6 qts, so all good there. The filter is a PITA if you don't have the right wrench, which I didn't. There was a lot of oil leakage around the filter and the bottom of the oil pan. I had just recently started to notice a leak. The filter was extremely hard to get loose, but it eventually came off. Changed the filter, filled the oil, and fired her up. And wouldn't you know, 60 psi at idle, about 50 warm idle, and never lower then 50 while taking it for a little cruise. I don't get what happened here? Will I be stuck in this oil change cycle forever? Was the filter clogged, or bad? I just doesn't make a lot of sense to me that new oil is the solution, when the old oil had about 900 miles on it.

in order to get a true idle read it has to be in reverse gear..

drive gear will never give a true idle reading.
idle in park/drive is about 1000 rpm so you don't stall out while charging with the electrical motor...

while reverse gear will show a lower RPM as it does not power the the electrical motor (generator)...
 
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Tahoehybrid18

Tahoehybrid18

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I've only owned since November, have no clue what oil or filter the dealership I bough it from used. When it was changed to 2 mo ths ago, it was at a Chevy dealership, and so they used their standard oil, and ac delco filter. I used the same ac delco filter this time, and Amazon basics oil, as this is just a experiment to see if the oil pressure would get better by changing those things. The dealer I bought it from hasnt left me with alot of confidence. After crawling underneath last night to change the oil, I noticed both front sway links are broke, and the driver side has been digging into the CV axle boot, and there grease everywhere, so I got more work on my plate.
 

Fless

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The dealer I bought it from hasnt left me with alot of confidence. After crawling underneath last night to change the oil, I noticed both front sway links are broke, and the driver side has been digging into the CV axle boot, and there grease everywhere, so I got more work on my plate.


All the more reason to do, or have a trusted shop do, a thorough pre-purchase inspection. If nothing else, what's found can be a negotiating tool. And you'd have a much better idea of what to expect in repairs; there will always be repairs to be done that the prior owner put off.
 

Wolfbraid

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Oh boy, hate to piggy back on your post, my oil flush and change didn't go so well this time.

Ran the gunk stuff, 5 min on cold engine(as recommended)
Pulled drain plug... ....(let me add a few more pauses here) ... ...
Nothing, my oil didn't come out, and then it passed a nasty chunk of sludge.
and I got all 6 quarts out plus some for the Gunk flush...

I use to work for a shop that did mechanical flushes, I'm feeling I need this or to pull the pan(not me a shop)

Running almost back up to pressure, I may run for a week or so and just change the filter but not sure at this point, just playing it by ear...

one thing for certain, the engine is still running as quiet as can be.(maybe all the sludge is a sound insulator hah)
 
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Tahoehybrid18

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So, just replicated the trip I took last weekend that lead to my oil pressures demise. During the whole trip, about 2 hrs round trip, oil pressure never got below 42. Also, the pan is still dry after cleaning it during the oil change, so no leak.
 
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Tahoehybrid18

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So...... saga continues. Took a long trip today, about 2 hrs on continuous driving. The last 15 mins, oil gauge went to about 5, stop engine now message. Still drove about another 15 mins as i was on the interstate in a not great area to stop, but what I've also learned as when this happens is the oil pressure is actually fine. As soon as i got off the interstate, and got to slow done enough that auto stop kicked in, when I accelerated enough, the engine kicked back on and oil pressure was back to normal, what gives?
 

swathdiver

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So...... saga continues. Took a long trip today, about 2 hrs on continuous driving. The last 15 mins, oil gauge went to about 5, stop engine now message. Still drove about another 15 mins as i was on the interstate in a not great area to stop, but what I've also learned as when this happens is the oil pressure is actually fine. As soon as i got off the interstate, and got to slow done enough that auto stop kicked in, when I accelerated enough, the engine kicked back on and oil pressure was back to normal, what gives?

Ok, I just read through every post to refresh my memory. Since you were flushing gunk out of your engine, change just the filter and top off the oil. Cut the filter open and look for gunk and goo. If the problem comes back and the filter is clean, change your o-ring. Average lifespan of those things is 160K miles.
 
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Tahoehybrid18

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Ok, I just read through every post to refresh my memory. Since you were flushing gunk out of your engine, change just the filter and top off the oil. Cut the filter open and look for gunk and goo. If the problem comes back and the filter is clean, change your o-ring. Average lifespan of those things is 160K miles.

If it was the oil ring, would the oil pressure be constantly bad?
 

swathdiver

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If it was the oil ring, would the oil pressure be constantly bad?

Not necessarily. The check for the o-ring is to overfill the motor with oil by 1 or 2 quarts and while letting it idle (don't drive it) watch the oil pressure. Another way is to get her face down on a steep ramp and check then, the objective is to submerge the o-ring in oil to it is not sucking air. If there is no change, it's not the o-ring, usually.

If you look back through this year and last there are about a dozen guys who have just had to replace their o-rings on their high mileage trucks. Two this week even.
 
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Tahoehybrid18

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What's always confused me, is why just changing the oil fixes the issue, for a few months, it doesnt use any oil, the level on the dipstick is always the same, and these issues only come up with prolonged driving, 2hrs or more continuously, no breaks
 

swathdiver

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What's always confused me, is why just changing the oil fixes the issue, for a few months, it doesnt use any oil, the level on the dipstick is always the same, and these issues only come up with prolonged driving, 2hrs or more continuously, no breaks

Well, I think those oil filter problems are from sludge build up. If the previous owner didn't change the oil frequently and used regular or blended oil there was a sludge build up. Then you come along and start running full synthetic and change it more often. Synthetic oils have a habit of breaking down sludge and getting it moving where it winds up in the oil filter.

I'm speculating of course, the only way you'll know for sure is to cut the next filter open and look at the oil that comes out during the next change. And of course, run that test for the o-ring to eliminate it.
 
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Tahoehybrid18

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I can understand that, and I will do that. But with talking with the dealer who serviced it for me orginallly, when this happens, we dont think the actual oil pressure is dropping. This last time I drove 5 miles at highway speed with it at 3 psi, and the engine was stone quiet. He said, eith low, it no oil pressure, the valve train would be making crazy noise from lack of lubrication, but engine was quiet and ran smooth. Now, from reading on here. The passage the pressure sensor uses is the same as the one for the AFM, if so, is it possible the AFM is bleeding the pressure off some how, and not letting the sensor to get a proper reading?
 

Wolfbraid

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After I did the Oil Pressure Sensor and the Screen, I had to do a couple oil changes with flush in a short amount of time for the problem to go away. I haven't seen it since.
I've also started using the delco filter, I had previously used a Mobile 1(mid or upper range not sure) and a K&N, seems delco is favorite around here.
I know its a pain, but if you can pull the screen it might give you an idea if that's causing it.
 
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Tahoehybrid18

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So a new update!! One day a few weeks ago, just out of the blue, oil pressure dropped from consistently 45 cold to 35 hot, to 40 cold 20 hot. So I replaced just the filter and boom, 60 cold. Bad filters? I use the delco filter.
 

bfourman

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I switched from AC Delco filters to K&N because the "E" series filters use plastic internals vs metal. The longer HP2011 filter was the top recommendation I found on this site with the Mobil 1 second.
 

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