I have Fel- Pro 72401 which says on the package "Replaces 12584922". Thanks for confirming I was on the right track.
Oil pressure dropping
- Thread starter Musicars
- Start date
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clandr1
Full Access Member
I had low oil pressure back in December. I dropped my oil pan and my o-ring looked similar to yours (i.e., not in terrible shape). I replaced it anyway, put a new oil pan gasket on when I reinstalled it, and the end result was my oil pressure problems were solved.
It seems the pickup tube o-ring, even in a very modest state of deterioration, can definitely cause oil pressure issues.
Please update the thread after you replace the o-ring and let us know if it solved your oil pressure issue.
It seems the pickup tube o-ring, even in a very modest state of deterioration, can definitely cause oil pressure issues.
Please update the thread after you replace the o-ring and let us know if it solved your oil pressure issue.
Well, here is the update. I replaced the o-ring, started it up, and my heart sank as I watched the oil pressure again slowly drop to about 10 psi. The difference this time is that it is not dropping to zero and when I increase the RPM to about 2,000 the pressure goes to 30 psi. Before I was getting pressure dropping to below 10 psi, the low oil warning light was coming on, and revving would maybe bring it up a few psi. This time the warning did not come on even after letting it get up to 210 degrees on the temp gauge.
So, maybe my pump is bad or maybe the dealer I got it from put magic mystery goo in it to cover worn bearings and my oil changes flushed it out. I doubt with 170,000 miles the bearings are bad. I just talked to a guy that had a 2005 Yukon Denali that he got rid of because the transmission went out at 300,000 miles.
I have cluster out of a 2005 I may put in for test purposes just to make sure. I think it has bad stepper motors and I was going to fix it anyway. Probably not the gauge since I would assume the low pressure warning would have been triggered by the pressure sensor not the gauge. I am not looking forward to tackling pulling the bottom pulley on that crank.
So, maybe my pump is bad or maybe the dealer I got it from put magic mystery goo in it to cover worn bearings and my oil changes flushed it out. I doubt with 170,000 miles the bearings are bad. I just talked to a guy that had a 2005 Yukon Denali that he got rid of because the transmission went out at 300,000 miles.
I have cluster out of a 2005 I may put in for test purposes just to make sure. I think it has bad stepper motors and I was going to fix it anyway. Probably not the gauge since I would assume the low pressure warning would have been triggered by the pressure sensor not the gauge. I am not looking forward to tackling pulling the bottom pulley on that crank.
That pulley is easy if you use a Chrysler harmonic balancer puller, a 1/2" drive impact gun and use the harmonic balancer bolt you remove but grind the shoulders off it so it fits through the puller. You use that bolt to push against with the bolt in the puller. As the balancer moves off the crank, unscrew that bolt a bit as you go so you can keep something to push against. Otherwise the puller bolt has nothing to push against. That puller has 3 claws that fit perfectly onto the 3 flat spots on the back of the balancer. There's YouTube videos on it.
Here's the video, I found it. I did this and it is definitely easy. I used a HF 1/2" electric impact gun.
Thanks for pulling the info together. It looks like getting the pulley off is not too tough. My biggest fears are getting the pulley bolt off, then reinstalling the pulley and torquing it back again. I don't have the body mass for these kinds of torques. I'll also have to figure out how to keep the flywheel from turning. There are probably videos for all of this.
Use the ARP harmonic balancer bolt. The OEM one is torque-to-yield so you need two, and you have to do it twice. It's a pain. The ARP bolt gets torqued once, and it's reusable. I used a short piece of 1/2" steel pipe between the spokes of the harmonic balancer to keep it from moving and it wasn't bad. The impact will get it pulled on. Might have to use a cheater bar on the torque wrench. I weigh about 200 and it took all my weight I think.
Any opinions as to whether or not this needs the high volume pump like the Melling M295HV? I have seen feedback when used on engines with 300,000 miles but mine is at 170,000 miles and not sure it would need the extra volume.
From my understanding it's more for the NNBS which run at a lower pressure stock. I believe melling has info on their site. There's also a high pressure one I believe. I went with the normal one on mine at 150,000 miles. It runs 45 at idle and 60 when revs are up.
I'm in exactly the same situation as Joel! Just heard from the shop that replacing the o-ring did not bring the pressure up. They are putting in an oil pump now. I hate paying someone to do something I can do but I have no time and I'm in the middle of home improvements right now and need the truck.
You gotta do what you gotta do.
Melling has several different ones for this motor. I assumed that the HV made up a bit for the increased bearing clearances of a worn motor. I didn't really think 170,000 was that worn. If I could get around 45 psi at idle I would be ecstatic. Thanks for that info.
I hope you report back with how it turns out for you.
Ok. So shop with best reviews in town has replaced oil pressure switch, oil pump (Melling High Volume 295HV), Oil pick up tube o-ring and says it still doesn't have enough oil pressure. He's had the truck since Wednesday night. What else can it be guys? It already has a new rear main seal from a month ago when I had to replace the flex plate.
If the shop has checked the pressure with a mechanical gauge to make sure the pressure is indeed low and it's not just the gauge, then that motor needs a rebuild because it would mean the bearings are worn.
The mechanical gauge attaches where the oil pressure sensor is installed. Any reputable shop knows to do that though when they're chasing low oil pressure so see if they've done it. What all have they done to verify pressure? And why did you taking it to the shop in the first place?
Sorry, your having issues too. I was rooting for you regarding the pump. Today I swapped clusters with one I got from an '05 Denali and got the exact same low pressure reading. So, I doubt I have two clusters with bad pressure gauges. I'm looking at the pump now on mine.
I'm lucky I didn't get rid of my old mini-van so I have something to drive in the meantime. It rides like an old buckboard due to a bad rear air suspension but it runs.
The gauge now reads the same as it did before I took it in but he says that’s because my oil pressure sensor was bad and everything is right now. Does anyone have guidance on where the gauge should read when warmed up? A different shop told me to put 10W40 in it instead of the 5W30 this shop put in?
