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Not at all. Engine runs quiet and smooth. The video doesn't show the times it sweeps rapidly from 40 to zero. Its like the signal was cut.
Oil pressure all over the place - SOLVED
- Thread starter Matahoe
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It sounds to me like pulling the sender is the next step. When you do that, be sure the electrical connector is clean inside. Sometimes the sender body leaks and pushes oil into the connector, and in the worst case into the harness wiring itself. Not all that common, but something to look for.
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I want to check the little screen filter under pressure sensor. How do I remove it? Screw it and pull out?
No screen should be there since a 2005 wouldn't have AFM. Don't add one.
And IIRC once you pull the electrical connector the gauge should read 80psi (buried). I think...
And IIRC once you pull the electrical connector the gauge should read 80psi (buried). I think...
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Ok so you are saying that if I pull the electrical connector for the sensor it should peg to 80? That would be a temporary bandage just to get the dinging to stop.
I'm not quite sure, but I think that's what it does.
There's a special socket for the sender, one that will fit between it and the intake. Some people have had success with a regular socket, though.
It's not too bad a job with the right combination of extensions and a flex head ratchet.
It's not too bad a job with the right combination of extensions and a flex head ratchet.
This thread has some good info:
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
Oil Gauge Pegged at 80... Sending Unit?
My oil gage has been pegged for sometime now (Pegs out without engine running). 5.3 LS runs and strong, no issues. Wondering if anyone had success changing their sending unit? What is the socket size for the unit? Sucker looks like it's back in there pretty good. Let me know- thanks! Dan
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
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I actually got this one on Amazon some years ago when I was contemplating replacing it.
Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket
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West 1
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I have done several with a standard deep socket, I am not positive on the size but maybe a 7/8” socket? Extensions and swivels are necessary for sure.
I would not get excited about adding flushes or anything else into the oil system on a 200K engine. Too much old stuff in there can come loose and cause more issues for you. Fresh oil is the best bet.
If you have no odd engine noises that is a very good thing, your problem is external. I have had to replace the gauge cluster, actually had it rebuit with all new stepper motors to control the guages properly. Mine was a 03. The Oring on the oil pump is a real possibility, at 200K you are very lucky if it has not failed yet.
I would not get excited about adding flushes or anything else into the oil system on a 200K engine. Too much old stuff in there can come loose and cause more issues for you. Fresh oil is the best bet.
If you have no odd engine noises that is a very good thing, your problem is external. I have had to replace the gauge cluster, actually had it rebuit with all new stepper motors to control the guages properly. Mine was a 03. The Oring on the oil pump is a real possibility, at 200K you are very lucky if it has not failed yet.
He said o-ring was done 7 years ago? Live data voltage readings?
Digital Dash Solutions.
I have a thread about all this and my 2004 Silverado.
Digital Dash Solutions.
I have a thread about all this and my 2004 Silverado.
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Done. Works great! About the same psi range as old sensor. I used a 1/2" short swivel and 6 inch extension with the Lisle socket which fits the sensor perfectly. I would say buy it because its easy to deform the aluminum housing during installation . Everything was done by feel. Took me 15 min including removing engine cover and bracket. When removing the electrical connector i noticed it was was dry but the sensor was able to rotate and seal was broken. I used brake cleaner to clear sensor area of dirt. I used contact cleaner for the connector.
Thanks again everyone. Hopefully this thread adds a little bit more info along thousands already out there about the same thing. Cheers
Thanks again everyone. Hopefully this thread adds a little bit more info along thousands already out there about the same thing. Cheers
Good work, and thanks for coming back and posting your solution!
Steve Waddington
Senior Member
I was going to post something here, because I was having a similar issue...but I see you've solved the problem! Good!
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Almost forgot ..please make sure to start the sensor by hand. As you can see in the pic above..the lower part is aluminum. Threads could easily get cross threaded.
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Steve Waddington
Senior Member
Just replaced mine...and I wholeheartedly agree with you about starting the new one in by hand. Those threads are soft...and be careful not to over-torque the unit when tightening.
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A google search shows the torque is around 22 pound feet. I noticed that Briggs and Stratton spark plugs that use a similar crush washer are 20 ft lbs. I would go with 20. According to sources, thread sealant is mandatory for no leaks. The sensor above has white sealant pre-applied from the factory. Loctite does make slow cure white thread sealant. Sounds similar to pipe dope used with NPT fittings. It is not the same as thread locker.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I obviously missed what the cause was. Was it the O ring or the oil pressure sensor? I was having the same exact issue and symptoms in my Express van but was never able to figure it out.
The foot pounds torque suggested amount, is at the socket. If you use extensions and u-joint extensions, that can change the foot pounds actual readings. If it says 20-22 foot pounds, I would do 25 foot pounds. IMO, the longer the extensions and the amount of them, will decrease the actual amount of torque at the socket.
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