o2 sensor

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dans99

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I got the code P0140 (sensor 1 bank 2) the other day and now the SES light for it is out. I have 3 questions.....
1. Would this cause crappy gas mileage?, cause it started to suck the week before I got the SES. I use to get 250-260 miles to a 1/2 a tank, now I get 170-180.

2. What is the GM part # for the sensor's?

3. Since the SES light is out does that mean that magic fixed it?...haha or is still on going?

My truck..... 99 tahoe. all tune-up stuff done last yr. 140k on the clock. Thanks.
 

AtomicHoe094

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dont forget that the gas stations put in their wintermix now. which causes crappy ass gas mileage because they think it lowers some kind of pollution or some crap..
 

Danny_Z56

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I have the same issue with mine.In the warm months i will have no CEL,but once the temps start to dip to 30* and below that pesky CEL will come on.

Also if its really cold out my idel RPM's will stay at 1000rpm(in Park),even after i have drove for 18 miles.

When i had my PCM read,it said that i have a bad O2 senser,rear passanger side.
 

SunlitComet

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that specific sensor is, I think, experiencing thermal shock in really cold weather. Just one of my theories.

---------- Post added at 02:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------

Also Danny the higher idle is programmed to do that last I checked.
 
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dans99

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sunlitcomet.... Thanks for that info. Ill prob. just buy a new sensor, so sensor 1 bank 2 is the one on the drivers side after the cat?... right?

Danny...I noticed to that mine stays at 1000rpm's on a cold day on a cold start. its just so it can warm up faster, but like you said it goes back to normal once up and running.

Atomic....I did factor in the "winter mix" but i couldent see losing 70-80 miles per 1/2 tank. prob. the mix plus the bad sensor combined.

Thanks for the info guys
 

SunlitComet

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your pipe may cross over by the time it reach the converter so follow your pipe but yes bank-1 sensor-2 would be driver side cylinder bank after the converter aka post converter.

The bosch unit should be part # 13474 about $70.

Just be prepared for a stuck sensor it happens on exhaust parts. if you can't get it off get ready to heat and vise grip the bugger. or let a muffller shop do it for you and if possible clean out the bung threads.

I think you will be find afterwards just disconnect your battery for a minute to wipe the code if you don't have a scanner to do so(sounds like you do) or it will take a while before your computer recognizes the problem fixed. may have to reprogram radio settings etc...

---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 PM ----------

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

TOOLS REQUIRED
Oxygen Sensor Wrench

NOTE: Do not remove this pigtail from either the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) or the oxygen sensor (O2S). Removing the pigtail or the connector will affect sensor operation.

Handle the oxygen sensor carefully. Do not drop the HO2S. Keep the in-line electrical connector and the louvered end free of grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents of any type.

Do not repair the wiring, connector or terminals. Replace the oxygen sensor if the pigtail wiring, connector, or terminal is damaged.

This external clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors, or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and degraded sensor performance.

The following guidelines should be used when servicing the heated oxygen sensor:

* Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors. These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance.
* Do not damage the sensor pigtail and harness wires in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
* Ensure the sensor or vehicle lead wires should not be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends or kinks could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
* Do not remove or defeat the oxygen sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor. Removal of the ground wire will cause poor engine performance.
* Ensure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the vehicle harness connector in order to prevent damage due to water intrusion. The engine harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air reference being obstructed.

The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) may be difficult to remove when the engine temperature is below 48°C (120°F) . Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust manifold or the exhaust pipe.

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.



1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Remove the HO2S sensor connector heat shield if necessary.
4. Remove the HO2S sensor harness connector.



5. Carefully remove the heated oxygen sensor using an Oxygen Sensor Wrench.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) threads. The compound consists of liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite tends to burn away, but the glass beads remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New, or service replacement sensors already have the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from an engine and if for any reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before the reinstallation.



1. Coat the threads of the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound GM P/N 5613695 or the equivalent if necessary. NOTE: Refer to Component Tightening Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the sensor using an Oxygen Sensor Wrench. Tighten Tighten the sensor to 41 N.m (30 lb ft) .



3. Install the HO2S sensor harness connector.
4. Install the HO2S sensor connector heat shield if necessary.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
 
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dans99

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sunlitcomet....your the man, thanks!. I think I made a typo when I first posted it. I DO have the code P0140 ( BANK 1 SENSOR 2) I had it backwards when i posted. I put sensor1 bank 2. but going by the diagram you showed...bank 1 sensor2 is the on the passenger side after the cat. I do have the socket needed to change the sensor out and yes do plan on it beeing stuck on there...lol
 

SunlitComet

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That sounded backwards again. lets just say converter closest to the right frame rail. is that what you were saying? don't want you to do the wrong one.:mexsmoke:
 

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