TWITCH101
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Haha I bet shops just green clean the engine bay and replace the o-ring then charge you $3k for a rebuild....LOL
No oil pressure at start up, 2001 Tahoe
- Thread starter Chads93GT
- Start date
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TheAutumnWind
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Shoot. My lq4 has less than 40psi oil pressure at idle. Now I want to do this.
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Chads93GT
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There is nothing wrong with your oil pressure. Start worrying when it has zero.
TheAutumnWind
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Hah, ok thanks chad.
I've got 271K on my 02 tahoe 4x4, still drives like a champ. Little issues here and there, but nothing worth complaining about. It's had a water pump about 60K ago, new hubs recently, some various suspension parts, but really nothing serious. there's a few leaks, but I still burn less than a quart of oil per change cycle. It has been driven nearly all highway, and very cautiously for most of it's life which I'm sure has helped.
I'm going to say a prayer, sleep well, and hope that I find a similar issue. Just bought this, and dang it I never saw that at idle it'll drop down to zero. Goes right back up when I get going, but now I have a new rig and A LOT worried to drive it. 2007 Denali, so I'm hoping 4x4 won't be an impossible task...
Would appreciate any help... Thanks folks-
Would appreciate any help... Thanks folks-
Alright, I'm getting myself psyched up... Any confidence builders for dropping the oil pan on my AWD Denali? I'm thinking I can get it down and do this - there is also a little plate up at the front of the pan that might give me a little window to the pump? Anyone know?
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VikingTrad3r
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denali xl 6.0
330,000klm / 205,000miles.
rook, not sure which part of that thread is your issue.
i had sudden no oil pressure and i took steps in the op post #1.
i had about 200klm on a gold FRAM high mileage filter, and some really cheap oil. up until this point, i had been running quaker state DEFY it is a high mileage oil with zinc and other additives. I do NOT know if there are rubber swelling agents in this oil but here is my theory on my situation. my oil pressure is back to normal now, it idles at 45-50psi. it takes about 2.5 seconds to "build" up to 45-50 psi. it clearly has "bursts" of pressure build meaning the needle is not steadily building. i would suspect the stepper motor on the dash cluster (known issue for this gen of chev) BUT i regained my pressure when i put a new pressure sensor on, dumped my cheap oil and went to the qs defy again, and dumped my fram filter and went to wix.
but there is still the strange pressure buildup behavior.
i suspect it is the oring as was the case in the op post. there must be something in the qs defy that helps seal the oring.
to be honest, it may have always been like this.
i will drop the pan, clean pickup screen, and replace the oring as soon as the 85corvette project is out of my garage in a few weeks.
330,000klm / 205,000miles.
rook, not sure which part of that thread is your issue.
i had sudden no oil pressure and i took steps in the op post #1.
i had about 200klm on a gold FRAM high mileage filter, and some really cheap oil. up until this point, i had been running quaker state DEFY it is a high mileage oil with zinc and other additives. I do NOT know if there are rubber swelling agents in this oil but here is my theory on my situation. my oil pressure is back to normal now, it idles at 45-50psi. it takes about 2.5 seconds to "build" up to 45-50 psi. it clearly has "bursts" of pressure build meaning the needle is not steadily building. i would suspect the stepper motor on the dash cluster (known issue for this gen of chev) BUT i regained my pressure when i put a new pressure sensor on, dumped my cheap oil and went to the qs defy again, and dumped my fram filter and went to wix.
but there is still the strange pressure buildup behavior.
i suspect it is the oring as was the case in the op post. there must be something in the qs defy that helps seal the oring.
to be honest, it may have always been like this.
i will drop the pan, clean pickup screen, and replace the oring as soon as the 85corvette project is out of my garage in a few weeks.
My problem was the o ring. It was hardened and in no less than 5 pieces bleeding oil. All fixed, good as new. It's weird how it threw the stabilitrack warning, but that is working too (we just got snow last week)
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VikingTrad3r
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right on. glad to hear its a very common issue. did you have any trouble getting the oil pan to seal up?
No leaks so far that I can tell, but it's been freezing, snowing, raining and I've been parking cars in different places so I haven't been able to really see just from what drops on the ground. I was just happy to find that he pan didn't have any metal shavings - who knows how long people let it idle without oil pressure before I bought it.
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Lvmywife01
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I was searching to see if I should use royal purple hmx this oil change in my 01 tahoe. I found this thread and read through it. My tahoe has 351,698 original miles on it. And has not had oil pressure at start up for near 30,000 miles now.
I park in my driveway on a small downhill incline to keep my oil pressure from dropping when I start it up to get before I go anywhere this keeps my oil pressure up enough to not sound like a dry engine and let everything clack. But if I'm on flat ground and do this or parked with nose uphill it has no pressure.
I'm wondering now should I do what has been done to my tahoe in the beginning of this thread? And should I even dare put royal purple hmx (high mileage synthetic oil) in it?
I park in my driveway on a small downhill incline to keep my oil pressure from dropping when I start it up to get before I go anywhere this keeps my oil pressure up enough to not sound like a dry engine and let everything clack. But if I'm on flat ground and do this or parked with nose uphill it has no pressure.
I'm wondering now should I do what has been done to my tahoe in the beginning of this thread? And should I even dare put royal purple hmx (high mileage synthetic oil) in it?
VikingTrad3r
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sounds like the oring. all i can say is quaker state defy (high mileage) works great for us. it must have some swellers in it. this isnt a long term fix, and i need to get the oring fixed.
ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)
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526k miles on a GM motor its almost an inspiring story filled with triumph hope and glory
How much harder is this job (the o-ring) with a 4WD? I've got an '06 Tahoe LT 4WD that has 0 oil pressure at idle, comes up to about 20 while driving. When it drops to zero, the beeping/"Oil Pressure Low" warning comes on in the DIC. My wife's truck, so I don't drive it too often; couldn't say how long the pressure has been low, but it just went low enough to trigger the beeping/warning, and the valves are ticking noticeably. I'm hopeful that an O-ring will fix the problem, rather than an engine rebuild/replacement, but I don't know...
VikingTrad3r
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its not hard if you have a basic set of tools. the front diff needs to be un-hung and pushed forward. THERE IS A VIDEO of a guy who did it without (rickafix or something like that, on youtube) moving the diff but its way way easier.
i did my pan while i did my front diff carrier bearings.
in the mean time, grab some quaker state "defy" 5w30 and do an oil change. in my case, the swellers in the high mileage oil swelled the oring enough to get the pressure back on startup. i will be dropping my pan again to the oring but this high mileage oil did fix it for now.
im sure other high mileage oils have swellers in them.
i did my pan while i did my front diff carrier bearings.
in the mean time, grab some quaker state "defy" 5w30 and do an oil change. in my case, the swellers in the high mileage oil swelled the oring enough to get the pressure back on startup. i will be dropping my pan again to the oring but this high mileage oil did fix it for now.
im sure other high mileage oils have swellers in them.
A couple things:
This isn't too hard, but you have to decide to go all-in to get it done. I have an AWD 2008 Denali, and I had to pull the rims, the CV joints, the crossmember, the diff, front driveshaft, the pinion steering, the whole 9 yards before I could get the pan down. You've got an earlier body style, but on mine, I HAD to take I all down because the oil pan is too tight to take down otherwise. I was able to do it myself and it took a little while, but they're all big bolt parts with a fair amount of room for a breaker bar down there on the tight stuff (I did mine in my garage on jacks).
If you have 0 oil pressure at idle, do something now. After I learned what might be happening, I babied mine when I had to drive it, put it in neutral at stops and brought the idle up to get pressure back in the system. I didn't have my lifters tick at all doing this. If yours are ticking, no Bueno...
I've got some pictures of my gauge when I first noticed it, and the six pieces my grommet/o-ring was in when I took it out here:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/oil-pressure-gauge-stopped-working.71998/
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SLCHOE
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Why? 3 bolts that hold the differential up drops it down with axles connected. You spent way too much time doing it the way you did.
