Newbie with ongoing HVAC weirdness. Any ideas? - SOLVED

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mtglick

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Hi, all--need some advice on a persistent HVAC issue. Have been through a bunch of threads here and elsewhere and I can't seem to figure out what's going wrong here.

I have a 2004 Yukon XL, SLT, 2WD. About 270K on the motor, lots of upgrades/changes over the last seven years and 130K of cross-country road trips, daily driving, and family jaunts hither and yon, but the HVAC is insisting on giving me a little bit of a runaround.

To sum, my wife's biggest complaint about the truck (outside of the noise the aftermarket dual 16" e-fans make), is that the front Auto-Temp HVAC has been sketchy for the past couple of years. Early problems related to the pass side front blowing hot air when the rest of the car is blowing cold, or the system just getting overloaded in the summer and giving up the ghost. In the last year or so we've replaced juuuust about every part of the system, outside of the evaporators, and while it seems like we've cured some of the problems, each cure seems to bring up another issue, and we're still struggling with it. We've done the blend actuators, compressor, orifices, condenser, A/C head, resistor, blower motor, and retrofitted a cabin air filter while we were at it. All new parts from reputable companies.

Current issue is that, after the A/C motor seemed to go out (original unit), I did another blower motor resistor change when I swapped the motor. We got about a week of usage and the fan stopped working again--tried the A/C reset procedure, no dice. I swapped in a spare AC head controller, which did nothing positive, but now the T/C dashboard idiot light activates at start. That seems to be related to something malfunctioning in the head controller, but no idea why, and I'm going to put my old OEM one back in, and relegate the "new" one back to spare parts. I have a new resistor on the way, so I'll swap that in and see if it was just a bad resistor. The motor I installed initially was bad, so it may have weakened the one that's in now. Engine compartment fuses (10A and 40A) are both good.

My question at this point is "Am I missing something?" Is there some other part of this system that I've overlooked here? The rear A/C works GREAT--no issues, blows super cold, etc. Rear controls are predictable and effective. The front controller, fan, and resistor just never seem to want to work together, even when all of the parts are new and "working", there are weird behaviors--for instance, the inability to activate recirculation, but only sometimes. The system goes in and out of Auto mode, and there are other bits of oddness that seem to come from the A/C controller, but not consistently, and swapping in a new head didn't seem to solve those problems. Is there something else I should be looking at?
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in.

@swathdiver may be able to provide some focused troubleshooting tips for you.
 

mountie

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Hi, all--need some advice on a persistent HVAC issue. Have been through a bunch of threads here and elsewhere and I can't seem to figure out what's going wrong here.

I have a 2004 Yukon XL, SLT, 2WD. About 270K on the motor, lots of upgrades/changes over the last seven years and 130K of cross-country road trips, daily driving, and family jaunts hither and yon, but the HVAC is insisting on giving me a little bit of a runaround.

To sum, my wife's biggest complaint about the truck (outside of the noise the aftermarket dual 16" e-fans make), is that the front Auto-Temp HVAC has been sketchy for the past couple of years. Early problems related to the pass side front blowing hot air when the rest of the car is blowing cold, or the system just getting overloaded in the summer and giving up the ghost. In the last year or so we've replaced juuuust about every part of the system, outside of the evaporators, and while it seems like we've cured some of the problems, each cure seems to bring up another issue, and we're still struggling with it. We've done the blend actuators, compressor, orifices, condenser, A/C head, resistor, blower motor, and retrofitted a cabin air filter while we were at it. All new parts from reputable companies.

Current issue is that, after the A/C motor seemed to go out (original unit), I did another blower motor resistor change when I swapped the motor. We got about a week of usage and the fan stopped working again--tried the A/C reset procedure, no dice. I swapped in a spare AC head controller, which did nothing positive, but now the T/C dashboard idiot light activates at start. That seems to be related to something malfunctioning in the head controller, but no idea why, and I'm going to put my old OEM one back in, and relegate the "new" one back to spare parts. I have a new resistor on the way, so I'll swap that in and see if it was just a bad resistor. The motor I installed initially was bad, so it may have weakened the one that's in now. Engine compartment fuses (10A and 40A) are both good.

My question at this point is "Am I missing something?" Is there some other part of this system that I've overlooked here? The rear A/C works GREAT--no issues, blows super cold, etc. Rear controls are predictable and effective. The front controller, fan, and resistor just never seem to want to work together, even when all of the parts are new and "working", there are weird behaviors--for instance, the inability to activate recirculation, but only sometimes. The system goes in and out of Auto mode, and there are other bits of oddness that seem to come from the A/C controller, but not consistently, and swapping in a new head didn't seem to solve those problems. Is there something else I should be looking at?
Ouch..... I have an '05 XL.... My only issue was just the passenger actuator, and replaced it......
I wonder if your replacement of the head unit...... Double check the connections?? Other than that, I don't know anything.....
 

Fless

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A couple of suggestions...

The AUTO HVAC head can easily be disassembled to clean the temperature pots and the buttons. I had mine apart to do just that and to replace the backlighting.


There may also be an updated calibration (software) from GM if it hasn't been done yet. Some scanners can look at the existing calibrations, and if there is one available it can be programmed ($) at some cost.
 
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mtglick

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Thanks, all. Appreciate the advice, responses in order:

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in.

@swathdiver may be able to provide some focused troubleshooting tips for you.


@Joseph Garcia , truck shots below. Iin terms of mechanicals since purchase we've swapped out the mech fan for a dual 16 and the stock radiator for a 3-row aluminum, added the oil cooler lines, upgraded the oil and water pump to push more of both, changed out the wheel hubs, installed Bilsteins all around, upgraded the rear springs to a longer cargo spring, Banks CAI, full dual exhaust from the heads to the tailpipes, transmission was rebulilt, and the usual sundry parts as they've failed (TPS, MAF, 02's etc.) The intent with the vehicle is long-distance reliability in very warm climates, as we take it out on the road every summer. Last time we loaded out we totaled about 1600 lbs in with five people and an XL top box, and the setup handles that with surprising grace.

1000005624.jpg1000005623.jpg1000005625.jpg1000005626.jpg20250511_102740.jpg1000005629.jpg

sounds like you need to either invest in a tech2 or a decent mid-level scanner so you can troubleshoot the system.
versus just throwing parts at it.

@Doubeleive , had it scanned by a shop early on, everything seemed OK. Most of the parts gun was aimed around upgrading and replacing fifteen + year old hardware before it died in the desert. Was recommended we go in and have the dealer reflash the ECM to deal with a reversed driver's side seat control (forward and back are flipped), but it's never really been enough of a problem to risk the dealer trashing the computer.

@mountie , thanks anyway. Had a 98 SL500 myself for a while. Eventually let it go to somebody who could take better care of it, had problems keeping the ignition coils going but the car itself was wonderful as a driver.

A couple of suggestions...

The AUTO HVAC head can easily be disassembled to clean the temperature pots and the buttons. I had mine apart to do just that and to replace the backlighting.


There may also be an updated calibration (software) from GM if it hasn't been done yet. Some scanners can look at the existing calibrations, and if there is one available it can be programmed ($) at some cost.

@Fless, will research this in more detail. Thanks for the, umm, heads up. No pun intended.


For any interested, will update after the resistor install tomorrow and let you know what happens.

Thanks!
 

mountie

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Thanks, all. Appreciate the advice, responses in order:




@Joseph Garcia , truck shots below. Iin terms of mechanicals since purchase we've swapped out the mech fan for a dual 16 and the stock radiator for a 3-row aluminum, added the oil cooler lines, upgraded the oil and water pump to push more of both, changed out the wheel hubs, installed Bilsteins all around, upgraded the rear springs to a longer cargo spring, Banks CAI, full dual exhaust from the heads to the tailpipes, transmission was rebulilt, and the usual sundry parts as they've failed (TPS, MAF, 02's etc.) The intent with the vehicle is long-distance reliability in very warm climates, as we take it out on the road every summer. Last time we loaded out we totaled about 1600 lbs in with five people and an XL top box, and the setup handles that with surprising grace.

View attachment 456922View attachment 456923View attachment 456924View attachment 456925View attachment 456926View attachment 456927



@Doubeleive , had it scanned by a shop early on, everything seemed OK. Most of the parts gun was aimed around upgrading and replacing fifteen + year old hardware before it died in the desert. Was recommended we go in and have the dealer reflash the ECM to deal with a reversed driver's side seat control (forward and back are flipped), but it's never really been enough of a problem to risk the dealer trashing the computer.

@mountie , thanks anyway. Had a 98 SL500 myself for a while. Eventually let it go to somebody who could take better care of it, had problems keeping the ignition coils going but the car itself was wonderful as a driver.



@Fless, will research this in more detail. Thanks for the, umm, heads up. No pun intended.


For any interested, will update after the resistor install tomorrow and let you know what happens.

Thanks!
At least, your '98 SL500 could be diagnosed with a Tech 1 ( or a tech 2 ?)... My '93 didn't. So I had to throw $$ parts at it with my fingers crossed... But my SL was gorgeous!!
 

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Fless

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Your seat issue may be a problem with the BCM or the DSM, not the PCM. There are multiple calibrations for the various modules and sub-systems. Here are a few of the calibrations that I verified and updated on my '04 (L59 engine):

1747063861032.png
 

mountie

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Your seat issue may be a problem with the BCM or the DSM, not the PCM. There are multiple calibrations for the various modules and sub-systems. Here are a few of the calibrations that I verified and updated on my '04 (L59 engine):

View attachment 456953
My '05 Yukon's seat 'forward/backwards' switch is also reversed. Can I have my mechanic use his tech tool to correct?
 

Fless

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My '05 Yukon's seat 'forward/backwards' switch is also reversed. Can I have my mechanic use his tech tool to correct?

Read through the short thread below. I think @DougAMiller has the answer.

 

Fless

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Also, Dr. Shock has some videos on using the Tech 2 for updating calibrations. I'm not going to go into the difference between using the offline TIS2000 that typically comes with the Tech 2, and using online SPS. That depends on your programming hardware setup. I did all mine using TIS2000 since those calibrations are no longer being updated, and they're all on the TIS2000 disc.

Later in the video (around 7:15) you can see the updated calibration description, where it lists what issues that particular calibration will correct.

 
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mtglick

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Your seat issue may be a problem with the BCM or the DSM, not the PCM. There are multiple calibrations for the various modules and sub-systems. Here are a few of the calibrations that I verified and updated on my '04 (L59 engine):

View attachment 456953

@Fless , that's very interesting. Thanks much for this, would get my vote for a tech sticky (if you folks do that kind of thing here). What's really got my attention are those last three entries--ultimately, that's kind of what I was asking about. If there are custom selections for HVAC calibrations, and they corrupt or get out of alignment, could explain some of the ongoing issues related to how the whole system functions (or doesn't). Will research that further.
 

Fless

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Here are a couple of threads that might interest you:

This is a listing of some of the Tech 2 owners; many are willing to help local folks that don't have one:

 
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mtglick

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As to the original issue, I got it fixed this AM, and (spoiler) it wasn't the resistor.

When I pulled the hush panel down, everything looked good, so I left the first resistor in place and just plugged in the new one. No change. Pulled the original resistor, looked at the connections, nada. I had the system powered up and as I was moving wiring around to get the new resistor out of the way, the fan started up. Turned everything off, looked at everything, nothing looked odd, system was now working normally.

I was just on the verge of declaring a gremlin in the first resistor when, for whatever reason, I decided to pull the fan. To be honest, I don't love putting the fans back in, for whatever reason what SHOULD be a quick thing almost always turns into a fight for me, so I hesitated, but figured it would bug me down the road if I didn't check it. Popped the fan out, looked at it, was fine, and as I went to put it back in the mount, I disconnected the fan.

Which was where the problem was.

The vehicle-side fan connector had melted INSIDE the plug. The exterior looked fine, no discoloration or anything that looked off, but it was distorted just enough to create a small arc, which continued to grow as the system pulled more amps over the connection. More arc, more heat, more distortion, until it eventually broke the connection. When I bumped the wire, it moved just enough to re-establish the connection, temporarily resolving the problem. If I hadn't pulled the fan and looked at the interior of the plug, could have been much worse down the road.

The new resistor came with a new pigtail, so I spliced the new connector into the harness, cleaned the pins, plugged everything back in, et voila. Working fan. I let it run for about ten minutes, checked it again, nothing changed, amp draw looked OK, so declaring this one done, at least for now.

Thanks y'all for the assist, moving on to calibrations research.
 

Joseph Garcia

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I'm glad to read that your issue is resolved. Please add the word "FIXED" or "SOLVED" to your thread's title, to let others who are experiencing a similar issue know that this thread has an identified solution.
 

jfoj

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Before you claim victory here, I have been down the path of MANY GM vehicles in the 2000-2006 range with the HVAC damper motor problems. You will know when you have a problem as often you will here a "knock, knock, knock, knock, knock, knock" under the dashboard. This usually the HVAC damper motor trying to find its correct position.

I have taken a number of the damper motor controllers apart and cleaned the variable resistance half moon up with rubbing alcohol and contact cleaner.

But the BIGGEST problem with problems with the HVAC on these truck and almost anything GM built from 2000-2006 that had the electrical HVAC damper motors is with the small female terminals in the wiring harness get loose over time and do not make a good connection. The terminals are a PITA to get out of the connector, but you will need to remove the female terminals one at a time and carefully pinch them closed. Then BEFORE you put the terminal back in the connector, you should push the terminal on the damper motor square male pin to make sure it has a good amount of physical resistance to install and remove the female terminal.

Do this for all the female terminals in each HVAC damper motor you can get to. Some are tough because the pigtail is very short and you cannot get easy access to remove the female terminals.
 

RobertRN

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Also, make sure you body grounding straps are nice, clean and tight. My fan kept turning on and off at random. Could not figure it out. Replaced the resistor twice then one day I was playing with 2 resistors like you were and when I shut the passenger door the fan came on. The shaking of the door wiggled the chassis ground enough to reconnect. So I hunted all of the straps down, (three that I found) cleaned them up and replaced one and this has fixed a multitude of issues in my 04 XL 2500 SLT.
 

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